Glue

Some surfaces are perfect for gluing, others can not be glued without pre-treatment. High Density Polyethylene/Milkcarton or PTFE/Teflon are difficult to glue. Best bonds are achieved when the glue layer is as thin as possible. Therefore pressing the two parts together after applying glue is useful. If the bond requires to be flexible such as in clothing, rubber or plastics, specialized glues should be used.

With exception of woodglue you should ware gloves when applying the glue. It is almost impossible to not get any glue onto your fingers, skin or clothing otherwise.

It is NOT recommended to use acetone or ethanol to clean glue from your skin. Water works well with wood glue, and paper towels are effective for other glues. If your skin is contaminated, rub off as much glue as you can with paper towels. Then try water and only if absolutely necessary try acetone.

Woodglue or carpenters glue is a synthetic adhesive and water based. It can be easily diluted with water or cleaned with water. It has moderate bonding strength, and moderate moisture resistance, along with a 30-minute setting time. It is for indoor use only.

Superglue or Cyanoacrylate is a fast acting glue that polymerizes in the presence of moisture. It has a weak bond strength and when attached to skin, comes off by itself after a while. It is best stored in the freezer. It has a short shelve life. Easiest use is to open container with hypodermic needle and let it clog after use and to reopen the needle with a lighter.

Epoxy is self polymerized after mixing two components. The mixing either occurs in the dispenser or two parts are mixed on foil with a stick. Epoxies come in many different formulations, some being conductive and some being water resistant. Also their shelve life and curing time varies. Epoxies have some of the largest strengths of any glues.