KRISTA FONGEH'S PORTFOLIO
This is a slideshow displaying the engineering process of my wind turbine (group project.)
Entry:
For the project, we learned about three different types of energy: gas, wind, and solar. The two energy sources I'd say are most similar are wind and solar. Wind and solar energy are both renewable, meaning that they are sustainable and won't dwindle over time. However, due to these power sources relying on something that cannot be controlled (sun and wind patterns), they may be unreliable at times. Additionally, these sources take a lot of space, which can be inconvenient for rural areas who don't have much space to spare. Unlike solar and wind energy, gas energy is not renewable, and has a more detrimental impact on the environment and atmosphere. However, gas is more predictable, and can be extracted/gathered and used when needed.
Knowing this, we decided to make a wind turbine, as it would be the easiest to simulate and model within a short period of time. To start, we made prototype blades to attatch to our turbines. These blades had no defined dimension and we're not very efficient. In order to optimize our turbines, we listed all the variables and properties of our turbines that affect it's productivity and we planned out how we were going to alter them. Some of these properties included the blade size, the number of blades, the distance from the wind source (a fan), and the motor type. For the blades, we split up into groups and were assigned a set of blade dimensions for each group. We all tested out our blade sizes, and foudn that larger blades were more productive. For the number of blades, each group tested a different amount of blades, and decided which one would be most productive. My team found that with our (4"x1 1/2") blades were most productive when only four were attached to our turbine. We also tested the color of our alligator clips, which we found left our voltage unaffected. Next, we tested how the turbine's distance from the wind source would affect it's voltage prduction. We found that the closest distance (12") produced the most volts. Following that, we experimented with the angle of the blades. We experimented with the blades turned at an angle of 30 degrees and 45 degrees. We found that the smaller angle (30 degrees) was more productive and produced more voltage. Finally, we tested the motor type. After experimenting with both motors, we found that the larger motor produced more voltage.
After completing this assignment, I've learned that optimization is altering something to make it more efficient.
1) Sketching: To sketch, I had to plan out each dimension of my box and decide how I would maximize my 2x4 wood plank to ensure it could be used for the entire box. During this step, i decided how I wanted my box to look (if I wanted it to be slim, tall, wide, etc.)
2) Table saw : The table saw was used to make sure my 2x4 was an exact width. By the time we got to the table saw, we had already used the band saw and the planer saw to make sure the other dimensions were exact to increase the quality and craftsmanship of my box.
3) Planer saw: The planer saw, as mentioned earlier, was used to flatten the jagged edges the band saw had left on the wood. We placed the smooth side down and the jagged side up so that it could be accurately smoothed out. This process was very tedious and loud, but it was worth having a smooth plank of wood in the end. Because of how loud the machine is, we typically wore ear protection when around the planer saw.
4) Biscuit joiner: Once we perfected our cut list dimensions and used the miter saw to cut our plank into shorter pieces of wood to fit our box size, we used the biscuit joiner to connect our the pieces of our box to make it more sturdy and reliable.
5) Clamps: After biscuit joining, the wood glue could often seep out and make gaps in our wood, which could potentially ruin the quality of our boxes. To ensure our planks were firmly bonded, we clamped them together while they dried so that once the wood glue had solidified, our planks were durable and solid.
6) Miter saw: The miter saw was a crucial step in creating our boxes, as it (along with the table saw) is what we used to cut and trim any loose ends on our box, which is more efficient than sanding it down when it comes to larger ledges.
7) Sanding: As mentioned earlier, our boxes weren't always perfectly aligned once we assembled them. This is where the handheld orbital sanders helped out. We used the handheld orbital sanders outside to sand down any imperfections in our wood, using a larger grain for the majority of the box, then smoothing things over with a smaller grain to ensure our box was perfectly smooth and aligned.
8) Wood putty: Whether it is due to a natural cause, such as a branch, or a manufacturing cause, such as a gap in our box, we often had to fill our holes with wood putty. Each wood putty session required a new batch of wood putty. Luckily, it's fairly simple to make; to make the wood putty, we simply mixed sawdust from the orbital sanders with wood glue. This created a paste-like mixture that we used to fill any gaps or holes in our box. Once the wood putty dried, we sanded it down again.
9) Finishing process: The finishing process was where we assembled, sanded, and stained our boxes. To assemble our boxes, we used the nail gun along with glue. We aligned our walls, lightly glazed them with wood glue, and then sealed them together with the nail gun. This 2-step assembly ensured that our boxes would be sturdy and durable once we completed the process. After assembling, if there we any uneven or un-aligned parts, we simply sanded them down with the orbital sanders. After doing so, we stained our boxes using wood stain, gloves, aprons, a protective cloth (for the table), and snippets of spare cloth to apply the stain.
10) Hinges (or sliding mechanism): For my box, I chose to use hinges. (With assistance,) I drilled holes in my box, aligned the hinges, then screwed them on. After doing so, I was satisfied with my box.
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Craftmanship: Craftmanship is the quality of a creation or the effort put into it. Typically, goods craftmanship means higher quality, which is what I aim for.
Rate my craftmanship?: If I had to rate my craftmanship out of 10, I would rate it a 9/10. While my box is overall pretty nice, I believe that it could be better. I was fairly undecided on my design at first, which led to me not having a lot of time to perfect it once I was decided. There are a few gaps and the lid is uneven, additionally, the inside isn't stained.
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I am probably the most proud of my staining job. I would say that's one of the best factors of my box.
I'd say that the most difficult part was getting all the dimensions exact and deciding on a box design. I overcame these challenges by realizing my box won't be perfect and doing my best.
Front
In use
Diagonal
Close-up
slide 1
slide 2
This is the code that resulted in the display to the right. This code programs how long each light should be on, what order they'll flash in, and which 'GP' each jump wire needed to be plugged into.
This is the result of the code shown to the left. Each light briefly blinks before being programmed to stop, and allow each following light to illuminate before lighting up again.
This is a sketch of the infinity mirror prototype shown to us on 2/6/24. In this image, we sketched and labeled a diagram of the infinity mirror. Infinity mirrors produce a "multiplied" image of the led lights placed inside of them. There are two reflective surfaces surrounding the lights. The walls of the prototype are made out of non-luminous, opaque cardboard. Due to it being more for function, rather than aesthetics, the bottom mirror is complete opaque as well, with it's inner-mirror side facing the interior of the box, towards the lights that are placed along the cardboard walls of the prototype. However, the top pane is where we would see the exhibit, so it is translucent (semi-transparent) and made of one-way-glass. A result of this feature is us being ble to see in, while the light on the interior side is reflected off. As a result of this phenomenon the photons from the luminous LED lights are reflected off both the translucent reflective lid and the opaque reflective base. This causes less light to be reflected each time, giving the impression that the lights are getting dimmer as they multiply, resulting in an illusion of a deep hole.