The goal of my machine learning model was to create an object recognition model that can recognize four or more objects that had at least a 90% accuracy. The data used in the model must be personally collected with no errors.
MY FOUR ITEMS LISTED BELOW
Body Armor
Nintendo Switch
Minion Pez
Camera
My data set contains 1,000 images, 50 images per item, each photo being 48x48 pixels. I collected my 1,000 image data by using the applicant Pycharm and an image data set creation code. I scanned all four items while Pycharm took a rapid photos and this created large-scale data sets for each item. I collected 50+ images for each item which resulted in my uniform data set. After I collected the images I created four folders in Google Drive, labeling each folder as the item and storing all the item data. Below are examples of the rapid photos. MY DATA IS LINKED TO THE PHOTO ON THE LEFT
Body Armor
Camera
Minion Pez
Nintendo Switch
Using python coding my machine learning model recognizes and then classifies images as one of four items. My model is a final exam with an 99% accuracy rate. It is the result of all of the Python knowledge I have accumulated in my class's machine learning unit. My model is created in Google Collaboratory is connected to Google Drive where all my data is located. My model not only classifies images but also recognizes accurately and inaccurately classified images. The model is linked on the photo to the left, and the google drive is linked above.
The photo to the left is the code that built my actual model. The five lines include the models input and output, along with two dense layers. The first line of code defines the input as using a kerras command, and then calls training tensors previously defined. The second line of code creates a dense layer with 1024 neurons and a sigmoid activation function. The third line of code defines the output of the model and creates a second dense layer that doubles the models accuracy. The fourth line of code defines the term 'model' to the computer using another kerras command . Lastly the final line of code prints a summary of the created model.
The model predicted that this image was a body armor and it was correct
The model predicted that this image was a body armor and it was correct
The model predicted that this image was a nintendo switch and it was correct
Due to my models 100% accuracy, my model had no mistakes classifying my four items.
Today I mounted my lock to the lid of my box with screws. I then drilled holes in the side of my box that the racks slide into to lock. I also drilled a hole into the lid of the box for the key hole. I spent a lot of this class period and extended learning sanding down the outer ridge of my key to fit and twist smoothly in the hole.
I laser cut out my new gears and racks and then assembled my final key with the individual laser cut pieces. I then mounted my racks to my backboard with small screws.
Today I digitally designed my new gear and racks. I used Gear template generator program (woodgears.ca) , Making wooden gears out of plywood (woodgears.ca), Free Gear Generator - Design & Create Spur Gears – Evolvent Design. I used InkScape to make my rack myself.
Today I assembled my lazar cut gears and racks, I noticed that in the process of sizing my gears and racks in GlowFordge I made the nooks in my rack to shallow giving the gear bad traction.
Today I lazar cut and assembled my key hole in extended learning. Originally this was the only part I could cut and assemble out of cardboard because cardboard gears have gaps in between.
Today I assembled the cardboard model of my lock. I was unable to make my gears to work with the card baord material.
My lock consists of a rack and pinion system, I have two racks one on the top and one on the bottom that's controlled by one gear in the middle. The center gear is rotated by a stick sticking out the back side of the lock. Majority of the lock is inside of the top of my box, the lever/key sticks out of the top of my box which is what twists my gears and locks and unlocks my box. In my final lock a key hole will be on the top of my box, and the correct key is inserted and turned, it will rotate my center gear and unlock/lock my box.
This is my first class working on my prototyping. Today I aimed to learn more about the inner workings of my lock. I used miniature gears to prototype my mechanics and to figure out the size of my gears. I also worked on my base board in Onshape, and worked out the measurements.
Create file in Onshape
Right click on the file (of the sketch) and click export to DXF
Open Inkscape software
Open your file in Inkscape
Save your file to another filename (SVG filetype)
Login to GlowForge (create your account if needed)
Click create new
Click upload
Select your file
For material cardboard select 1/8 corrugated cardboard
Under Proofgrade Cut, speed should be 440,
Make sure your drawling is on top of the material (within the limits o the material)
Click print
Push the blinking button on the Glowforge
Monitor the Glowforge for he duration of the cut for file
Remove your material with the cuts made.
Wooden Locking Mechanism : 4 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
This is a mechanical gear locking mechanism, it's only purpose is to lock and unlock. This lock does not use any combinations it is controlled by a rotating lever that powers the parent gear. In the video below you can see how the gears are turned to make the wooden sticks slide outwards and poke out of the box. This is how the box locks. If I were to use this lock in my box, I would replace the rotating lever with a battery powered servo. I believe this lock is feasible to make in class. This creator has linked PDF files of the gears and lock parts that I can translate into CAD files. This lock does meet our project constraints. I will have to rescale to fit in my box, but this lock does meet the other constraints. I will have to design more than three parts digitally, and it will be made in Onshape.
The safe combination lock is a very simple mechanism made out of wood. This lock uses only the combination disk as input (once combination is correctly inputted it will be unlocked). As you can see from the top perspective image, the internal workings of the lock is made up of three rotating wooden disks. The combination disk is linked to a an aluminum rod (with a 3mm diameter). (Which is inserted inside an aluminum tube, with internal diameter of 3 mm and outer diameter of 6 mm.) The three disks rotate independently around the 6mm tube and each have a notch. When the correct combination is imputed the three notches align unlocking the lock. I believe lock is feasible to create in class. Just from this research I believe I have a solid understanding of the workings of this lock. The creator of this lock even linked PDFs of the lock parts that I can translate into CAD. The PDF files don't include measurements but from scale and knowing the size of the aluminum rod I can figure them out. This lock does meet the project restraints. Sizing may be an issue with my box because of how small my box is but this lock does meet the other constraints. I will have to design more than three parts digitally, and it will be made in CAD.
This cardboard lock works just like an actual store grade lock. In order to unlock, three digits need to be correctly aligned. The internal work of the lock is somewhat complicated, after watching the tutorial multiple times I still don't completely understand. It's made of multiple layers of cardboard that are cut individually to make internal notches that are controlled by the spinning ditches. I believe this lock could be made partially with wood if we used Onshape to cut out our layers. Though exterior of the lock could still be wrapped in cardboard. I will have to figure out a material for the top part of the lock that opens and closes. This does meet project constraints, if I decide on this lock it will be digitally designed, and the lock parts will be created using CAD software. This lock originally is very large, my recreation will be a lot smaller.
WEAR GLOVES
ALWAYS STAIN OVER A DROP CLOTH
PUT A SMALL AMOUNT OF STAIN ON YOUR RAG
USE COTTON CLOTH TO APPLY STAIN
DONT MIX STAINS
DONT LEAVE OUT STAINING MATERIALS
DONT WASTE GLOVES (PUT THE INSIDE YOUR ZIP LOCK BAG)
SMOOTHES OUT FLAWS< AND PREPARAES WOOD FOR STAINING (SMOOTHS OUT WOOD SURFACES). IT CAN EVEN RESOLVE EDGES THAT DIDNT PERFECTLY MATCH UP. YAY!
WEAR SAFTLEY GLASSES
KEEP YOUR SANDER MOVING AT ALL TIMES
BE CARFUL< NOT TO PLAC SANDEFIRST ASKING TEACHER
DONT TOUCH SAND PAPER WHILE SANDER IS ON
DONT PUT SANDER ON SURFACES THAT CAN BE DAMADGED
IT USES THE INPUT FROM CAD FILE TO CUT, OR CARVE PARTS PEICES THIS IS OUR MOST EXPENSIVE TOOL
DO RUN THE DUST COLLECTOR
VACUUM AFTER USE
WEAR EAR PROTECTION
WEAR SAFTLEY GLASSESSECURE YOUR MATERIALDESIGN AROUND YOUR SCREWS
DONT LEAVE CNC WHILE RUNNING
DONT GO NEAR THE GANTRY WHILE IT IS RUNNING
SOFTWARE
VCARE PRO is used to develop simple designs for cutting/engraving
Onshape files are used for more complex designs
Shopbot software actually controls the machine and runs the CAD file
CUTS BISCUT SHAPED HOLES ON YOUR MATERIAL SO YOU CAN ASSEMBLE YOUR PARTS TO BE PERFECTLY ALLIGNED AND STURDY.
WEAR SAFTY GLASSES
MAKE SURE SET IS APPRAOPRIATE FOR THE SIZE OF THE BISCUT
MARK BOTH SIDES OF THE MATERIAL
CLAMP IN BLOCK EACH TIME
MAKE SURE YOU SET HIEGHT OF MATERIAL
DONT PUT YOUR FINGER NEAR BLADE
DONT ASSUME THE BLADE WONT COME OUT THE MATERIAL
Cuts across the length of the wood. Type of cut is called a cross cut! Can also cut at angles.
WEAR SAFTY GLASSES
FIRMLY SECURE THE MATERIAL WITH YOUR HAND OUTSIDE OF THE HAND PLACEMENT LINE AND UP AGAINST THE FENCE
VACCUM AFTER USE
UNPLUG AFTER USE
REDUCE BLADE EXPOSURE
DONT TOUCH OR MOVE BLADE
IF HAND IS IN PLACCEMNET LINE TO CUT USE DIFFRENT TOOL
MEASURE MATERIAL ON THE SAW
ONLY PASS WOOD THROUGH THE PLANER
DONT PUT FINGERS NEAR THE OPENING
DONT PASS WOULD WITH SCREWS OR NAILS
WEAR EAR PROTECTION
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES
UNPLUG WHEN FINISHED
ADJUST THE CUTTING THICKNESS TO WITHIS 1/16" OF THE MATERIAL THIKNESS PRIOR TO CUTTING
ATTACH THE VACCUM BEFORE USE (BIG MESS)
SAFTEY GLASSES
EYEPROTECTION
NEVER ADJUST SAW WHILE RUNNING
KEEP SPACE CLEAN
USE FEATHERBORED
KEEP YOUR SAW "TURNED UP"
Design Thinking is a human-centered, iterative process that designers use to tackle problems
To the left, is my working back and forth servo tinkercad. Tinkercad software makes us able to test code and arduino designs before actually physically making the servo.
The image above shows my Tinker-cad for my battery powered Servo. This tinker-cad allowed me to create my circuit digitally, and follow through physically. This helps me prevent mistakes and confusion.
In the video above, my two working servos powered by my batteries are displayed. Because the battery is the power source, my computer is not needed to power my servo, making it independent.
Shown down below is my Ultrasonic Sensor,
/*
* Ultrasonic Sensor HC-SR04 and Arduino Tutorial
*
* by Dejan Nedelkovski,
* www.HowToMechatronics.com
*
*/
// defines pins numbers
const int trigPin = 9;
const int echoPin = 10;
// defines vari ables
long duration;
int distance;
void setup() {
pinMode(trigPin, OUTPUT); // Sets the trigPin as an Output
pinMode(echoPin, INPUT); // Sets the echoPin as an Input
Serial.begin(9600); // Starts the serial communication
}
void loop() {
// Clears the trigPin
digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(2);
// Sets the trigPin on HIGH state for 10 micro seconds
digitalWrite(trigPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(10);
digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
// Reads the echoPin, returns the sound wave travel time in microseconds
duration = pulseIn(echoPin, HIGH);
// Calculating the distance
distance= duration*0.034/2;
// Prints the distance on the Serial Monitor
Serial.print("Distance: ");
Serial.println(distance);
}
4
To increase my robot speed, I constructed a gear box. My gear box consisted of one big gear and one small gear. It was powered by my battery functioning servos and it increased my robot speed by 30%.