Please note :
The Mivice torque sensor replacement video is intended as an add-on to the bottom bracket replacement tutorial.
To see the full repair steps, please refer to that video.

Controller replacement: 

Follow the steps described in the video on the right, then finish the repair with a motor discovery via the backoffice app. On Classic, Cruiser & Cruiser ST, don't forget to spin the pedals slowly during the motor discovery process .

Don’t forget to do a controller update as well. After every controller swap, we MUST make a controller update to make it work. 

Comm module replacement: 

After the repair, you will need to transfer the bike from the old comm module to the new comm module. Steps are described at the end of the C2/3 comm module replacement tutorial.

But note that for Classic, Cruiser & Cruiser ST bikes, while doing the motor discovery, for it to pass, you NEED to spin the pedals. If you don’t do it, the motor discovery won’t pass. 

Brake bleeding instructions: 

Syringe head: SRAM standard, part of any universal bleeding kit (we usually use the kit from Decathlon).

There are a few key differences compared to the “usual” brake bleeding procedure: 

• To optimise breaking performance, we need to set the pads very close to the brake disc. Therefore, we designed and produced a specific Classic & Cruiser ST bleeding tool: 

  • The “BLEED” side allows us to place the pistons in the correct position during the bleeding (so the pads will be close enough to the disc after the bleed).

  • The “CHECK” side is useful to confirm that the pistons are in the correct location before and after bleeding. We advise to use it to check if the pistons need to be pushed back in place before inserting the “BLEED” side. 

Lever replacement instructions:

The most likely cause for the brake lever cracking is a handlebar diameter slightly too small, which leads the two parts around the lever screw to touch before the lever is tight and eventually crack. Therefore, when replacing the lever, please check that the two parts around the lever screw don’t touch when the lever is tightened (otherwise we’ll probably break the new lever).

If these two parts start touching, we advise to add a layer of tape around the handlebar to increase its diameter by a few millimetres. Simple electrical (insulating) tape works very well. It will be completely hidden once everything is reinstalled.

After adding a layer of tape, we’ll need to cut off a bit off the ends of the grip, at an angle, so that they won’t push the tape off when we slide them over. 

Once the new lever is connected, we’ll have to bleed the brake to fill the new lever with oil. See separate specific instructions.

Note that a brake caliper replacement follows the same steps!

Note : If only adding a spacer please follow these instructions.

Note : It's also possible to remove and replace the chain without the specific tools shown in the video.

To open the KMC missing link :
Use a pair of pliers, put one jaw from the pliers on a chain pin and the other jaw on the end of the missing link and squeeze.

To close the KMC missing link :
Turn the bike upside down and tighten the chain tension with a belt spanner until you hear a click.

The KMC missing link should never be reused once removed.

Note : You can use a brake or shift cable and Ferrule instead of the Rockshox reverb barb connector to replace the hose.

Note : If you don't want to purchase the anti-rattle foam you can remove the fork and use a trimmed piece of the round, firm, grey packing foam we use for bike shipping to create a channel that protects the inside of the frame and channels the hoses/cables through the middle of it.