See spec sheet.
Cowboy 4: 44-50 mm possible, wide tires to be kept.
Cowboy 2/3 : up to 48mm possible on the bike BUT not wider than 42mm possible with Cowboy mudguards
Minimum width 25mm
Schwalbe Marathon plus size 40-584 and size 42-584 are both compatible
On V1: 47 mm max (but watch out for mudguards clearance)
See relevant saved replies:
C4:
Brands usually mention several widths of compatible tires (e.g. 40-584 and 47-584). Simply make sure that 47mm is included in the range of compatible widths with a diameter of 584 mm.
C2/C3:
We can recommend you both the Schwalbe SV21 27.5" Presta and the Schwalbe SV12 26" Presta inner tubes.
Other inner tubes will work too. You need to pick a model that matches the size of your tires, i.e. 42mm-584mm or 1.65"-27.5" for the original Cowboy tires, and have Presta valves. It is not possible to replace those valves with Schrader valves as they aren't suited for the Cowboy rims.
Because in certain cases the rubber can expand, don't be surprised to see that 26" models can also fit 27.5" tires (e.g. the Schwalbe SV12 26" Presta inner tube is compatible). Also, brands usually mention several widths of compatible tires (e.g. 40-584 and 47-584). Simply make sure that 42mm is included in the range of compatible widths.
C1:
We can recommend you the Schwalbe SV12 26" Presta inner tubes.
Other inner tubes will work too. You need to pick a model that matches the size of your tires, i.e. 35mm-584mm or 1.38"-27.5" for the original Cowboy tires, and have Presta valves. It is not possible to replace those valves with Schrader valves as they aren't suited for the Cowboy rims.
Because in certain cases the rubber can expand, don't be surprised to see that 26" models can also fit 27.5" tires (e.g. the Schwalbe SV12 26" Presta inner tube is compatible). Also, brands usually mention several widths of compatible tires (e.g. 35-584 and 47-584). Simply make sure that 35mm is included in the range of compatible widths.
No, the current rim is not a tubeless compatible design. An easy way to tell a rim is tubeless compatible, is to look at the inside surface of the rim. If there are holes, its obviously not airtight. Tubeless wheels also require special valve stems, which create a seal on the inside/outside surface.
Technically it is possible to convert our rim to a tubeless one with a specific kit (you need a specific valve and and rim tape to cover the nipple holes. However this is a difficult operation, which requires special tooling - not everyone can do it.
We strongly advise against it - should a client want extra puncture resistance, buying puncture-resistant tires with inner tubes (e.g. Schwalbe Marathon) is a much easier option.
We count the number of turns a wheel does. We have a value for the wheel radius and based on that we can know the distance travelled. If the customer changes his tires for tires that have a different size, the computation of the speed and distance will be slightly off.
You could use the Hexlox inserts on the front axle and the new hex bolts in the rear. There cannot be a thru axle on the rear wheel.
Pretty straightforward, we just need to follow the right instructions to get the puncture repaired.
Root cause:
Fast puncture (customer felt quick deflation) = Snake bite → need to approach curbs carefully.
Slow puncture (customer came back after a couple of hours and saw tire was flat) → reduced with new liners and new tires
Generally speaking, keeping the tires well inflated helps to prevent punctures. The correct pressure depends on the model, it is provided in the user manual (available at https://cowboy.com/pages/downloads)
We are aware of potential issues with earlier C4 wheels which could explain punctures in the first km, beyond the "usual" cases:
Rim tape not properly applied. See picture on the side: the rim tape should stay within the edges, like in this picture-> replacement of rim tape required
Sharp edge inside the rim, left after the production process. This sharp edge should be on the part that isn't covered by the tire, replacement of rim (wheel) required.
Valve core loose, ie. the core inside the valve of the inner tube. --> Replacement of inner tube required.
Models impacted: all
Symptom: wheel is deformed and moving from left to right when turning. Make sure the movement comes from the rim, not the tire - This can be confirmed by putting a finger at the rim level, just under the tire, then spinning the wheel by hand and seeing if the rim touches the finger at some point.
Understood issue: yes
Root cause: accident or normal wear. Note that a little bit of movement (of a few mm) is perfectly normal, we have a larger tolerance thanks to the fact that we use disc brakes.
Countermeasure:
If the untrueness is pretty light (such as in the video on the right): get a trained technician to adjust individual spoke tensions to true the wheel. CMS partners can do this since August 2021.
All they'll need is:
a spoke wrench of the right size: 3.6 mm on Cowboy 3 (this tool will work) and Cowboy 4 and 3.23 mm on Cowboy 2 (this tool will work).
A way to check the position of the rim compared to the frame - We recommend using zip ties.
The tutorial on the right explains how to perform the repair - It's largely the same process as with any other bike wheel.
A few important comments on our specific design:
On Cowboy 2 and Cowboy 3, the tension of the spokes is different on each side of the rear wheel (due to the integration of the torque sensor in the motor hub). You'll feel that the spokes feel tighter on the non-drive side than on the drive side, this is perfectly normal. Make sure you don't over-tighten the spokes on one side (this could damage the rim) or don't leave the spokes too loose on the other side.
It can happen that the spokes on the drive side become very loose (to the point where you can turn the nipple by hand). If that's the case, start by tightening all spokes with little to no tension, then true the wheel as explained in the video "How to Straighten a Wheel".
We use disc brakes rather than rim brakes - This provides us with a slightly larger margin of error when truing the wheel. Any left-right movement of a few millimeters won't affect the bike's functionality in any way - Just make sure all spokes are tight (ie. that one spoke isn't completely untightened).
Models impacted: all
Symptom:
Either a spoke came loose, to the point where it can be turned by hand
Either a spoke is completely detached and/or is broken
Root cause: accident or normal wear on older bikes (eg. a spoke can break when you hit the rim pretty hard).
This is definitely maintenance-related, not under warranty.
Countermeasure:
In case a spoke came loose: it can be tightened using a spoke wrench of the right size. The wheel may need to be trued afterwards, see specific explanation on wheel truing above.
In case a spoke broke or fell off: it needs to be replaced.
First check that the rim isn't damaged around the spot where the spoke broke. If it is, the wheel needs to be replaced (replacing an entire rim is a lot trickier).
If the rim isn't damaged:
Arrange for a part shipment:
We can ship the correct spoke based on bike model and location. There are 4 spoke lengths on each model: front left, front right, rear left and rear right.
The spoke length on the left and the right of each wheel differs by 2 mm, so if we are just replacing one spoke, we can use the equivalent spoke for the other side of the same wheel and compensate through spoke tension. However, the length of spokes between front and rear wheel are very different.
In other words: you can use a rear left spoke instead of rear right, or front left spoke instead of front right, but not a rear left instead of front left.
We'll also ship a spoke nipple for each spoke sent, for the correct bike model. The nipple only needs to be replaced if it is damaged, but it is better to ship it to be on the safe side.
As said above, this is normally not under warranty -> Customer should pay for these parts (though they are quite cheap) and for the mechanic time.
Get the new spoke attached to the wheel.
See video on the right to see what the repair looks like.
Note that we also have a rim tape inside the rim. The rim tape should be removed to access the spoke from inside the rim (simply push it aside with a small pointy tool), then be reinstalled before remounting the tire.
Models impacted: Cowboy 3
Symptom: Clicking noise at every turn of the C3 rear wheel, coming from 2 spokes rubbing against each other.
Root cause: At some point, we lowered the tension of the Cowboy 3 rear wheel spokes, to prevent cracked rims over time This can lead 2 spokes to rub against each other and accumulate tension, making a "click" noise when they touch each other.
Countermeasure:
If the noise is very light: cleaning the wheel and applying a bit of lubricant on the spokes (silicone spray) should help greatly
First step: adjust belt tension on the spokes that click, and true the wheel
If not solvable otherwise: recover rear wheel