Cowboy 2/3: The bike passed the ISO 4210 certification for a total weight of 110kg, weight of the bike included (16kg). So maximum certified weight for rider, accessories, etc. = 110 - 16 = 94 kg.
If somebody weights more than 94 kg: The bike has been tested for 110kg because this is the required test by law. However, it can pretty safely hold more than that, it just has not been tested to that standard. HOWEVER DISCLAIMER: Cowboy cannot be held accountable if there was a use outside of the intended use of 110kg. Anyone who uses it above 94kg does it at his own risk (but those are small).
Cowboy 4: The frame is certified for a maximum weight of 140 kg, including the weight of the bike. This leaves a net maximum load of more or less 120 kg, including the weight of the rider, accessories, backpack, etc. Disclaimer above still applicable.
We can sell paint touch-up kits in the correct color of the bike. The result won't be perfect but it does a decent job at hiding small scratches that can happen when using the bike. (just like when you paint a wall: you cannot get a perfect result without repainting the entire thing).
Note that the black seat post WILL get scratched by the seat clamp. This is by design: we want these parts to generate friction against each other for the saddle to stay up high. Most bikes have a silver seat post to hide these scratches more effectively: our black seat post is much prettier but tends to show scratches more easily, unfortunately.
Rust/Corrosion can happen on our Frame? Our frames are made from Aluminium. Aluminium does not rust. Hence no worries!
Customers or You (CMS/IBD) can be worried about water entry. For example into the handlebar because the cockpit bottom cover is not perfectly clicked in
=> No worries, all electrical components are sealed individually. You could basically dip the front module or the com module + cables into water and nothing would happen. So also here: as long as the plastic casing of the electrical components is ok: No worries about water entering the frame
On Cowboy 1-3: Both saddle and seat post are standard. Seat post is 27.2mm in diameter and saddle is compatible with all universal saddle models.
Cowboy 4 sees a seat post and saddle redesign, but we are still using relatively standard parts (27.2 mm diameter).
Stem and handlebar can be replaced within reason on Cowboy 1, 2 and 3.
Stem: Beware of the length of the brake hoses.
Handlebar: Make sure it is compatible with grip and brake handle mounting.
At most, you can heighten the handlebar by c.8 cm without running into issues with the brake hose length.
On Cowboy 4, we cannot replace the stem nor handlebar. The cockpit makes the stem and handlebar directly integrated into the core design of the bike.
We will also be routing the brake hoses through the handlebar, therefore making modifications to this part of the bike impossible.
The Cowboy 4 has a ‘classic’ riding position, where the handlebar is more or less at the same level as the saddle. This gives users a 30-60° angle to the ground when riding the bike, which maximises the impression of dynamism and speed.
The frame size is optimized for riders between 170-195 cm tall.
The Cowboy 4 Cruiser and ST have a ‘city-trekking’ riding position, where the handlebar is positioned higher and closer to the saddle. This leads the rider to sit more upright, at a 60-80° angle to the ground. This will improve the overall level of comfort while keeping the whole experience dynamic.
The step-through frame also makes it easier to get on & off the bike.
The frame size is optimised for riders between 160-190 cm tall.
Brand: Selle Royal (one of the most renowned bike saddle manufacturers).
Model: Essenza Athletic on Cowboy 4, Essenza Moderate on Cowboy 4 Cruiser and ST.
We chose these saddles to improve the quality and comfort of the default saddle - Taking it one level further on the C4 Cruiser and ST, whereas we wanted to keep a slightly sportier ride on the C4.
We won’t sell the Cowboy 4 with the Cruiser/ST saddle and vice versa, yet the bike remains compatible with most universal saddles on the market so customers can easily change the saddle themselves if they’d like.
No, we didn’t find a nice way to integrate StVZO compliant lights without compromising the design of the bike.
Cowboy 2/3:
Radio interference:
Models impacted: Cowboy 2, Cowboy 3 - Mostly on FW versions older than 4.11.0
Correct issue tag: Light - Front - Broken/Flickering Front Light (e.g. due to Radio Interference)
Key characteristics: flickering while standing still, mostly while inside and at the beginning of a ride. The problem will also be more visible when the bike has poor network connectivity (e.g. at the countryside). The cause is similar to how old radios and TV's made strange "clicks" before a text message arrived on your phones, so the flickering will look like that. The issue is more likely to happen in more remote areas (poor reception).
Video HERE
Battery disconnection while riding:
Models impacted: Cowboy 3 only
Correct issue tag: Battery Connector - (Cowboy 3) Battery Disconnection while Riding
Key characteristics: Problem does not happen when standing still, only while riding the bike. Typically when hitting a bump on the road. This can be linked with the assistance turning off for a split second, or even the bike shutting off on its own. The problem will happen less (or not at all) when applying rubber bands between the battery in the bike, to "squeeze" the battery into the frame.
Defective front light or wiring with the bike
Models impacted: Cowboy 2, Cowboy 3
Correct issue tag: Correct issue tag: Light - Front - Broken/Flickering Front Light (e.g. due to Radio Interference)
Key characteristics: Front light doesn't turn on anymore at all.
Cowboy 1+/1:
Firmware bug and/or defective converter board on Cowboy 1+:
Models impacted: Cowboy 1+ only
Correct issue tag: Converter Board - (Cowboy 1+ only) Rear Light / Front Light not Working due to Defective Converter Board
Key characteristics:
No speed in app + broken front light but rear light is ok OR both front and rear light don't work
Usually modbus down (or -1.00km distance) on affected trips in the back-end
Issue is usually intermittent and can be temporarily fixed by locking/unlocking the bike, removing the battery and/or doing a bike reset. In more rare cases, this can also lead to an assistance failure.
Firmware version v4.8.16 could also help to prevent the problem, by sending the command to keep the front light on more than once.
(01.06.2021 update: Bug was fixed in latest firmware release, which we can deploy through the tag C1_ComAsi
Defective controller on Cowboy 1/1+
Models impacted: Cowboy 1, Cowboy 1+
Correct issue tag: Controller - (Cowboy 1/1+ only) Front Light not working
Key characteristics: Only the front light doesn't work. Rear light is OK, speed in the app is displayed and trips get recorded with distance > 0.00km. Still try to reset the bike to see if it can be helped.
Models: all
Symptom: scratches on the frame
Root cause: Our frame is painted aluminium, which can pick up scratches if you aren't careful while using it, which is pretty normal.
Rust/corrosion can happen? : Our frames are made from Aluminium. Aluminium does not rust. Hence no worries! Make sure a paint touch-up kit is sent to the customer.
Workaround: We can sell paint touch-up kits in the correct color of the bike. The result won't be perfect but it does a decent job at hiding small scratches that can happen when using the bike. (just like when you paint a wall: you cannot get a perfect result without repainting the entire thing).
Note that the black seat post WILL get scratched by the seat clamp. This is by design: we want these parts to generate friction against each other for the saddle to stay up high. Most bikes have a silver seat post to hide these scratches more effectively: our black seat post is much prettier but tends to show scratches more easily, unfortunately.
Preferred interaction: digital or part shipment
Models impacted: Cowboy 2, Cowboy 3
Symptoms: Flickering while standing still, mostly while inside and at the beginning of a ride. The problem will also be more visible when the bike has poor network connectivity (e.g. at the countryside).The cause is similar to how old radios and TV's made strange "clicks" before a text message arrived on your phones, so the flickering will look like that. The issue is more likely to happen in more remote areas (poor reception).
Video below:
Root cause: Radio interference generated by the comm modules connectivity. The top tube acts as an antenna, shooting a beam of waves directly at the front light, which isn't shielded enough. This leads to interference, which is visible in the form of flickering.
Countermeasure: We can prevent this by switching the bike's network connection from 2G to 4G. This is done as from FW version v4.11 onwards, so that we have constant uploads from the bike - Check the back-end to see which tag to be used for the update.
Note that we want to keep 2G as a fallback in case there is no 4G connection (2G is better at getting through walls, and we want to keep Find My Bike working as often as possible). As soon as the bike detects it is communicating in 2G instead of 4G, we will disable external communication to prevent the flickering from becoming visible, but this can take up to a minute.
--> This means that customers may still experience flickering in the first seconds of a ride (ie. the time it takes to disable external communication or change back to 4G). We can explain this to our customers.
November 2021 update:
It seems like some bikes continue to flicker while on 4G (or at least some customers continue to complain about it).
In the mid term, we are working on a HW change in the front light to shield it better from interference
In the short term, as a workaround, the problem should be eliminated by moving the position of the front light cable surplus from the top tube to the down tube, via a CMS intervention. See diagram below:
Correct cable position to prevent front light flicker due to interference
Models impacted: Cowboy 1+ only
Symptom:
No speed in app + broken front light but rear light is ok
OR both front and rear light don't work
Usually modbus down (or -1.00km distance) on affected trips in the back-end
Issue is usually intermittent and can be temporarily fixed by locking/unlocking the bike, removing the battery and/or doing a bike reset. In more rare cases, this can also lead to an assistance failure.
Root cause: 01.06.2021 update: An app + firmware bug was found which would trigger this issue.
Countermeasure:
Update the customer to the latest firmware version on C1+.
Alternatively, perform a reset the bike using the backoffice app
If the issue continues despite the reset, or if the issue happens all the time (not intermittently): replace the converter board.
Affected models: Cowboy 1, Cowboy 1+
Symptom: Only the front light doesn't work. Rear light is OK, speed in the app is displayed and trips get recorded with distance > 0.00km.
Root cause: On Cowboy 1(+), the controller commands the front light. If the communication between the controller and the front light is down, the front light won't work anymore.
Countermeasure:
Invite the customer to unplug/replug the battery + Reset the bike, preferably through the backoffice app.
If it doesn't work, and the issue isn't intermittent: change the controller. Watch out, the Cowboy 1 and Cowboy 1+ parts for the controller are different. This is also considered a "platinum" repair, for which only a handful of CMS partners perform this repair.
Models impacted: All
Symptoms: Noise from the front fork area, when turning the handlebar from side to side or applying pressure on it (e.g. pushing the bike forward with the front brake engaged).
See videos on the right:
Noise while riding sounds "clicky"
Noise can be reproduced by holding the front brake and pushing the bike towards the front.
Root cause:
On Cowboy 2/3: there are two bearings in the headset, which can get damaged over time. The bottom one in particular can get problematic.
On Cowboy 4:
As of early September 2022: we suspect this is linked to the type and/or quantity of grease on the headset bearings.
We previously suspected this to be linked to the tension of the pretension screw (= the screw holding the cockpit connected to the fork, from the bottom). Adjusting this tension may help, but not for 100% of cases.
Countermeasure:
On Cowboy 2/3: Replace the headset bearings
On Cowboy 4: Add additional grease of the correct specification (Motorex Bike Grease 2000) to both headset bearings - The tutorial is available in the tutorials page.
Loosen the two cockpit clamp screws (the 2 screws that secure the handlebar with the front wheel) - Allen 3.
Remove the front wheel (Allen 8), then the front mudguard (2x Allen 4 and 1x Allen 3, normally) This should give you access to the screw which holds the fork and cockpit together, from the bottom of the fork.
Tighten then the long screw from underneath, with a torque wrench (Allen 5 head) This screw should be set at 5 Nm - Our test showed we could get rid of the noise by first tightening to 10 Nm, then loosening to 6 Nm.
If the noise remains, could you try with different torques - eg. start back from 5 Nm, and work your way up by adding 1 Nm each time. At some point you'll feel that the handlebar can't turn freely anymore, hopefully we can get rid of the noise before that stage.
Models impacted: Cowboy 2, 3, probably 4
Symptom: Screw for Saddle Height Adjustment breaks inside the frame, preventing the user from adjusting their saddle correctly.
Root cause: Screw was overtightened by the customer, leading it to break. This may be linked to the fact that the seat clamp may get a bit bent, requiring the customer to gradually tighten the seat clamp screws harder for the saddle to stay at the correct height.
We are looking into a stronger steel grade for this screw, to increase the maximum torque before this screw breaks.
Countermeasure: Visually confirm how the screw broke.
If the broken half of the screw can still be accessed, it should be possible to pull it out with a screw extractor and replace it
Otherwise, no choice but to exchange the frame (therefore the bike)
(Former tag: Saddle - Worn Saddle Adjustment Screws (C1+, C2, C3, C4))
Models impacted: all
Symptom: The seat clamp screw(s) (behind the battery) is/are worn, making the up/down adjustment of the seat post difficult or impossible.
Root cause: wear & tear of the seat clamp screw(s) over the bike's lifetime
Solution: Replace the seat clamp screw or screws.
Countermeasure: Send new seat post bolts + invite the customer to regularly make sure that these stay tight. Remind the customer to keep those bolts tight until the new seat post bolts arrive.
We also send a proactive communication to all riders to invite them to regularly check that the bolts are tight.
Copy of the message below:
Greetings from the team at Cowboy, here for a safety check reminder. If your saddle is loose, aka freeplay, it can make your ride unstable. To ensure there’s no freeplay in your saddle fixation, the seat post bolts and clamp must be tight. Let’s give it a quick check to avoid any potential accidents on the road.
Test these five things to detect unwanted saddle movement and to ensure both clamp and bolts are tight enough:
Try to wiggle the saddle out of the seatpost. Nothing should move.
Push down on the rear of the saddle.
The saddle rails will flex (this is normal to allow the saddle to absorb vibrations), but the seat post clamp should not move.
Push the saddle back and forward. The position of the saddle rails in the clamp should not change, and you should not be able to move the rails in the clamp forward or backward.
Check the saddle rails to see if there is any sign of damage or corrosion where the clamp holds the rails (see figure 3.). Some damage or corrosion in the green zone is normal (where the clamp holds the rails), but damage or corrosion in the orange zones may indicate the saddle rails have been moving when they shouldn’t be.
Using the Allen 5 key that came with your bike, confirm that both seat post bolts are tight.
If by following any of these steps you detect unwanted saddle movement, we recommend to replace the 2 seat post bolts with new ones, as the old bolts may have been weakened by the movement.
If you ever feel movement in the saddle while riding, you’ll want to ensure the seat post bolts are fully tightened. (Bolts should be tightened to 10Nm torque.)
Preferred interaction: Part shipment
Models impacted: All models.
Sometimes on New C4’s, the seat clamp needs to be replaced because of saddle coming down. This issue also happens when we have a Soft/used Seat clamp.
Symptom:
On a recent bike, the seat post keeps sliding down despite the screws being OK (head not stripped) and fully tightened
Suspected Root cause: The seat clamp (= the part which clamps the seat post to the frame when you tighten the seat clamp screws) is probably slightly bent - Therefore, when the screws are fully tightened, the seat post can still slide down.
Solution:
Replace the seat clamp. The process to replace the seat clamp on C4 is largely similar than on C2/3 (see dedicated tutorial), except the screws behind the rubber cover have a Security Allen 4 head (= the top 2 powerpack screws).
If the issue remains even with the new seat clamp, we can try to bend the seat clamp slightly to help the situation further.
Models impacted: all, not model specific
Symptom: mistake by the customer on the handlebar during assembly.
Most common:
fork visibly not in the right position, front and rear disk not on the same side of the bike, pedals touching front wheel when turning
Top screw tightened too much which lead the star nut to break.
Root cause: customer didn't assemble his bike properly.
Countermeasure:
If wheel in the wrong direction: Customer takes his user guide and retightens his handlebar in the right direction (front disk should end up at the same side as the rear one)
If starnut broken: replace the star nut set.
_________
Check the video on the right to see how to remove a broken star nut from the bike.
Solution is to:
Split the star nut in 2 pieces (usually already the case if the customer overtightened the top cap screw)
Tap on the side of each piece with a hammer and a flat screwdriver to rotate the star nut in the fork
Remove the piece with pliers.
Models impacted: all
Symptom:
Damage to the cover of the saddle, to be confirmed with a picture.
Possible Root cause: On C4, it can happen that the saddle rubs against the cardboard during transport, which can lead to rubbing marks on the edge. For other/older models, this is usually related to normal wear & tear.
Solution:
Brand new Cowboy 4: depending on how damaged the saddle is, offer adequate compensation or replace the saddle under warranty.
Non-new bike: this is purely cosmetic, but we can offer a new saddle for purchase if this bothers the customer. This issue is normally not covered by warranty, the customer should pay for this part.