An exploration of India's regional cuisine, representing our culture through traditional recipes.
Indian food has many associations in the West. Some feel it may be “too spicy” and are thus unwilling to try it, and others love their go-to chicken tikka masala (which, by the way, was invented in England) and "naan bread" ("bread bread"), but haven’t tried many dishes beyond that. Indians, however, tend to have a very different association with “Indian food”, not least because to us, it is just “food”.
The dishes one sees in an Indian restaurant in the West differs from the home-cooked meals that many of us have associations with. Our favorite foods made by our mothers and grandmothers will likely be something that most people have never seen, or at least have not tried, from an Indian restaurant’s menu.
Most Indian people rarely call their own food "curry. Yet, Indian food today in the West is heavily associated with, if not completely defined by, this British-English word.
Turmeric, cardamom, curry leaves, sesame seed, cumin, fenugreek, mustard seed, asafoetida, and many others
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One of the first associations that people have with Indian food is the abundant use of spices. Not only do these spices provide flavor, heat, and warmth to the food, but they are also referenced often in Ayurvedic medicine as remedies for various ailments.
Ayurveda, literally “the science of life,” refers to the ancient knowledge about food and how people can plan their diets in a medicinal way for optimal health (Mishra et al. 2019). Certain foods are good for the mind and body, while others can be detrimental, especially when eaten incorrectly.
Many, though definitely not all, Hindus, Jains, and Buddhists follow vegetarian or partially vegetarian diets, based on prescriptions from ancient texts discussing the moral ramifications of eating meat. India’s caste system, the social stratification in India that is determined by birth, also plays a role in how people eat. In the strictest interpretations, people of a higher caste eat "pure" food, and people of lower castes eat "impure" food. Members of the lowest caste, the Dalits, often face discrimination in many aspects, including being unable to find jobs in food service. Morality in India, both ancient and modern, is closely tied with people’s food choices.
Despite many long discussions in ancient texts regarding the rules for eating and serving food, food related taboos, and food prescriptions, very little attention was paid to the actual culinary process, the preparation of the foods. Ancient texts mention ingredients and cooked dishes, but there is very little said about the cooking process, the process of turning those ingredients into final dishes.
The vast majority of both of our associations with Indian food comes from what we ate with our families growing up. These experiences at our homes were our first answer to the question of what “Indian Food” really is. When we ventured out into the world, however, we realized that our experiences of Indian food based on our families’ home cooking differed from each other, and from other Indians. Our experience of Indian cuisine dependent on our individual family histories, where in India they come from, and where they and their families live today.
We very quickly realized that “Indian Food” is not a monolith, but instead a collection of various cuisines and dishes that originate from all over the Indian subcontinent. Depending on where in India you are, you may be greeted by cold, snowy mountains, tropical beaches, river regions, or other varying climates which affect what food is able to grow in those areas.
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India’s long history is full of interactions with other cultural forces, including the Mughals, the British, the Chinese, and countless others. In the South, considerable cultural influence comes from the Dravidian people and the people of the Indus Valley civilization. Each of these factors have had their own impact on Indian cuisine as we know it today.
Each region has its own version of what they call Indian food. Examining these separate parts together allows us to define “national cuisine” in the most representative manner possible. For this reason, we decided to analyze recipes by cultural region, allowing each region to represent parts of what makes up the “national cuisine” of India.
There are some limitations to a regional approach to defining a cuisine. In the process of selecting one or two dishes to represent each region, many other dishes from that region will necessarily be left out. This can result in a less nuanced, or more generalized view of the region, and many locals may not agree with the dishes selected to represent their regions.
We are aware that we are “outsiders” to much of Indian cuisine, because we have been raised in the US with limited exposure outside of our respective families’ recipes. Our knowledge is built on our own experiences, research, literature, and other cookbooks that helped us understand much of the regional importance of these dishes. We kept this in mind when selecting dishes from each region.
It seems that people within India themselves do not always understand the regional differences in cuisine. Appadurai tells a story of a Maharashtrian woman who sends her favorite snack, chakalis (top image), to her friend from Northern India. Her friend then thanked her for sending her “masala jalebi”, or “savory jalebi”. Chakali is a savory fried snack, while Jalebi (bottom image) is a sweet snack coated in a sugar syrup. The term “Masala jalebi” is almost an oxymoron. While visually very similar because both are deep fried in a spiral shape, they are very different snacks. This one anecdote highlights the regional differences within India and why the idea of a single national cuisine is very difficult to define. Indians are aware of the major differences in regional food.
We feel that the dishes we have decided to highlight in this project represent the region they come from, but we also hope that readers do not assume that these are the only popular dishes in each of these regions. We encourage readers to use this information as a starting place to also explore the variety of dishes that we were unable to highlight here.
After all, there has never truly been a single “Indian cuisine” that can be defined without understanding regional nuances. Appadurai argues that “the idea of an ‘Indian’ cuisine has emerged because of, rather than despite, the increasing articulation of regional and ethnic cuisines” (Appadurai, 1988). India as a country has only existed independent of colonial rule since 1947, and prior to that there was no history of a unified Indian identity, or a unified Indian nation.
Food around India varies so greatly, from place to place, region to region, culture to culture. We want to allow regional cuisines to shine on their own, rather than be lost in some false generalized idea of what Indian food might be. In the links that follow, you will find recipes that stood out to us from each of ten cultural regions in India. You will see great variation in the dishes, as well as some historical and cultural context that will give insight to why the specific recipe came to be within that region.
Enjoy!
When searching for how to divide India up based on cultural practices and similar cuisine, we found a source that divided India into 10 cultural regions based on language, religion, customs, and traditions. This map is a concise way to organize the recipes we wanted to explore. These regions are:
The Sikh-Gurumukhi Region
The Ladakhi-Buddhist Region
The Kashmiri-Muslim Region
The Kinnauri-Dev-Bhumi Region
The Hindu-Hindi Cultural Region
The Mixed Cultural Region of North East India
The Bengali Cultural Region
The Tribo-Hindu Cultural Region
The Marathi Hindu Cultural Region
The Dravide Cultural Region: Andhra, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala
Click through the recipes to learn more about each region and try a new meal from that region. We hope you enjoy exploring these recipes as much as we have over this journey.
Appadurai, A. (1988). How to make a national cuisine: Cookbooks in contemporary India. Comparative Studies in Society and History, 30(1), 3–24. https://doi.org/10.1017/s0010417500015024
Berzok, L. M. (Ed.). (2010). Storied dishes : What our family recipes tell us about who we are and where we’ve been : what our family recipes tell us about who we are and where we've been. ABC-CLIO, LLC.Sen, C. T. (2015). Feasts and fasts : A history of food in india. Reaktion Books, Limited.Ray, K., & Srinivas, T. (Eds.). (2012). Curried cultures : Globalization, food, and south asia. University of California Press.The Times of India. (2021, August 13). Onam 2020: Everything you need to know about Onam Sadhya. The Times of India. Retrieved 2022, from https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/food-news/everything-you-need-to-know-about-onam-sadhya/photostory/77755831.cmsS., D., N V, R., & Mishra, A. (2019, November 7). Traditional methods of food habits and dietary preparations in ayurveda-the Indian system of Medicine - Journal of Ethnic Foods. BioMed Central. Retrieved April 3, 2022, from https://journalofethnicfoods.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s42779-019-0016-4#citeasAgrawal, P. (2016, August 8). Caste on your plate: A tale of food snobbery in India . TheQuint. Retrieved 2022, from https://www.thequint.com/news/india/caste-on-your-plate-a-tale-of-food-snobbery-in-india#read-moreJalebi. (n.d.). Wikipedia. photograph. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JalebiCultural regions of India - geography UPSC. Lotus Arise. (2021, February 23). Retrieved 2021, from https://lotusarise.com/cultural-regions-of-india-geography-upsc/#cultural-regions-of-indiaShreekanth, S. (2021). Swasthi's Recipes. photograph. Retrieved from https://www.indianhealthyrecipes.com/chakli-recipe-chakralu-recipe/.