Instruction

Canterbury Mountaineering Club Instruction Programme 2020

To sign up for a course, click here.

CMC will be running courses in 2020 according to demand. Please contact the instruction co-ordinator to register your interest or ask any questions: email instruction@cmc.net.nz.

Payment for all courses to: CMC account 03 1592 0103242 00

The CMC has the following courses scheduled:

• • Basic Snowcraft (2 days)

  • · Using an ice axe

  • · Walking in snow without crampons

  • · Walking in snow with ice axe and crampons

  • · Self-arrest

  • · Mountain weather

  • · Risk management.

  • Location: Arthurs Pass

• • Intermediate Mountaineering (2 days)

  • Roping up for glacier travel

  • Demonstration of crevasse rescue

  • Moving together on moderate terrain

  • Pitching technical terrain

  • Climbing knots

  • Location: Arthurs Pass

• • Avalanche Awareness (2 days)

  • Learn the basics of avalanche awareness

  • Identify Avalanche Terrain

  • Introduction to snowpack

  • Travel planning, information gathering

  • Introduction to rescue

  • Location: Arthurs Pass

• • Back Country Avalanche (MSC 4 day course)

  • Refine your back country travel skills

  • Learn to identify and travel confidently through avalanche terrain

  • Learn the basics on forecasting and identifying primary hazard

  • Learn how to identify the correct snowpack test to apply

  • Group Rescue Scenario

  • Location: Whale Stream, Twin Streams, Mt Mary (Aoraki/Mt Cook NP)

• • Glacier Ski Mountaineering (5 days)

  • 5 days guided glacier ski touring/mountaineering

  • Location: Tasman Saddle / Barron Saddle / Grand Plateau

A weeknight session will be held in Christchurch for Snowcraft and Intermediate courses prior to the course. The snowcraft session will cover fitting crampons, checking gear and answering any questions. The intermediate course will cover essential knots including alpine butterfly, clove/italian hitch, munter mule and more.

The glacier clinic will not be held in 2020, but will likely be held again in 2021.

Details about these courses are provided below. Please also see “notes for all courses” below, for other important information.

Important Note:

You must have appropriate boots and crampons for all courses – ie mountaineering boots, not tramping boots. Mountaineering boots are stiffer and more waterproof than tramping boots. A boot with a three quarter or full shank is ideal. Snowcraft students will be asked to provide details of their boots and crampons combination in advance of their course. It is expected that intermediate and glacier skills students will already have appropriate footwear or understand what is required – but you may also be asked for details prior to the course. Safety is the paramount consideration.

Please also note that CMC does not own any gear and therefore cannot supply any of the items on the compulsory gear lists for courses. Please see the gear list sub-page for a list of gear hire places. It is prudent to reserve your gear well in advance of your course. Avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe are required for all CMC courses and it is essential to book these early. Note that students are expected to organise transport amongst themselves and snow chains may be required for skifield access.

Intermediate Course, 18-19 July 2020

Instructor: Murray Ball

Location: Arthurs Pass

Prerequisite: An experience prerequisite applies with no exceptions: You are expected to have undertaken a snowcraft course or have equivalent experience in using ice axe and crampons, and knowledge of self-arrest. If you need to acquire these skills first you can do so on a snowcraft course. No previous experience with rope skills is required – however, please ensure you can tie the knots listed below.

Description: This course will be held over the weekend 18-19 July. You will be based at Kennedy Lodge, though you may spend the Saturday night at a mountain shelter (to be confirmed with the instructor). Information about Kennedy Lodge is available here: https://www.cmc.net.nz/huts/kennedy-lodge.

A knots session will be held in Christchurch by a club volunteer, on a weeknight to be advised. This is not compulsory if you can already tie the knots.

Transport: Students need to organise their own transport to and from the course, and will have an opportunity to liaise with each other by email and also at the weeknight session. It is important you travel in a vehicle with snow chains. Please note, for safety reasons we also suggest you arrive by 7.30 pm on the Friday, in order to help manage the driving risks associated with potentially icy roads in winter.

Gear: You are responsible for sourcing the gear you need for the course. A gear list is provided on the CMC page as well as some gear hire places. Note students need avalanche gear (a transceiver with fresh batteries, shovel and probe) for this course. If you are hiring, these should be booked well in advance of your course as they can be in high demand.

Course content:

· Snow anchors (in particular, snowstakes, though your instructor may incorporate ice screws and rock anchors to some degree)

· Belaying

· Pitching

· Prusiking

· Moving safely on exposed terrain

· Knots.

You need to be able to tie the following knots: figure of eight, alpine butterfly, clove hitch, Italian hitch, double fisherman. https://www.animatedknots.com/climbing-knots

Ratio: One instructor to four students

Cost: $225 members, $300 non-members (NB: this includes accommodation at Arthurs Pass, but does not include food, transport or gear hire, which you will need to arrange). Payment to: CMC account 03 1592 0103242 00

Snowcraft Course 21-23 August 2020 (starting 7.30pm Friday 21 August)

Lead instructor: Paul Aubrey (IFMGA)

Location: Arthurs Pass (One of the Cragieburn skifields will be a back up location if the weather requires)

Prerequisite: None - no previous experience in snow is necessary. You are strongly encouraged to undertake the following free online avalanche awareness course prior to your mountain weekend: https://www.avalanche.net.nz/education/online-avalanche-course

Description: This course will be held over the weekend 21 to 23 August. You must arrive at Kennedy Lodge (the CMC hut in Arthurs Pass) by 7.30pm on Friday 21 August, where you will be met by your instructor for an evening session. Information about Kennedy Lodge is available here: https://www.cmc.net.nz/huts/kennedy-lodge

An evening session will be held in Christchurch (date to be scheduled shortly) by a CMC volunteer on managing risk, gear, and mountain weather. This will help to ensure you have the right gear for your course – ideally you will bring the boots and crampons you are planning to use along to the briefing so these can be checked for suitability. The session will also cover what happens on the course weekend, including the accommodation and mountain environment.

Transport: Students need to organise their own transport to and from the course, and will have an opportunity to liaise with each other by email and also at the weeknight session. It is important you travel in a vehicle with snow chains. Please note, for safety reasons we also require snowcraft students to arrive by 7.30 pm on the Friday, in order to help manage the driving risks associated with potentially icy roads in winter.

Gear: You are responsible for sourcing the gear you need for the course. A gear list is provided on the CMC page as well as some gear hire places. Note students need avalanche gear (a transceiver with fresh batteries, shovel and probe) for this course. If you are hiring, these should be booked well in advance of your course as they can be in high demand.

Course content:

· Using an ice axe

· Walking in snow without crampons

· Walking in snow with ice axe and crampons

· Self-arrest

· Mountain weather

· Risk management.

Rope skills and avalanche awareness are not taught on this course (though your instructor will discuss the avalanche conditions and other safety considerations on the course).

Ratio: One instructor to four students.

Course cost: $175 for CMC members and $230 for non-CMC members (NB: includes accommodation at Arthurs Pass, but does not include food, transport or gear hire, which you will need to arrange).

Payment to: CMC account 03 1592 0103242 00

Avalanche Awareness

Learn the basics - Identify Avalanche Terrain, introduction to snowpack, travel planning, information gathering, introduction to rescue

RATIO 1: 6 Max

1:4 Minimum

1 Evening lecture

1 day on Ski Field doing avalanche training

1 Day guided Ski touring / Terrain Analysis

Location

Ohau / Cook

Total Cost (split between participants)

$1870 - Based on 1:6 Ratio (only 1 guide needed)

$3250 - Based on 2:12 ratio (2 guides needed)

Extras

Education Tools (From MSC) – Need to be pre-ordered

$20 / Person

Avo Evaluator Card

Avo Rescue Card

MSC Certificate

Pre-Requisites

Intermediate Skiers

Own Ski touring Equipment

Own Avalanche Rescue Equipment

Payment to: CMC account 03 1592 0103242 00

Back Country Avalanche Course - Mountain Safety Council 4 Day course

Refine your back country travel skills

Learn to identify and travel confidently through avalanche terrain

Learn the basics on forecasting and identifying primary hazard

Learn how to identify the correct snowpack test to apply

Group Rescue Scenario

Option for Heli Accessed Ski Touring

Whale Stream, Twin Streams, Mt Mary

Ratio 1:4 MAX

2 x evening Lectures

4 days Touring / Terrain / Snowpack + Lectures

Total Course Costs (split between participants)

$3290 = 1 guide (max 4 clients)

$5995 = 2 guides (Max 8 Clients)

Extra’s

Education Tools (From MSC) – Need to be pre-ordered

$50 / Person

Avo Evaluator Card

Avo Rescue Card

Back Country Avalanche Awareness Text Book

MSC Certificate

Heli Access (Based on .15 flying time and a load of 4 + Guide)

$185 / Each

Pre-Requisites

Strong intermeidiate skiers with powder skiing experience

Some previous Ski Touring Experience

Previous avalanche awareness program or equivalent

Own Ski touring equipment

Own Avalanche rescue Equipment

Payment to: CMC account 03 1592 0103242 00

GLACIER SKI MOUNTAINEERING COURSE

Location Plan

Cook / Tasman / Barron Saddle / Grand Plateau

Glacier Ski Mountaineering program

We will use the best weather and snow conditions to select and choose our venue.

Ratio 1:4

Duration

5 Days with 2 weather contingency

Extras

HUT FEES

HELI or SKI PLANE ACCESS

Total Course Costs (split between participants)

$4040

Pre-Requisites

Avalanche Education to AVO Awareness as a minimum

Previous Mountaineering experience (ie roping up / knots / climbing)

This is not aimed at 1^st time climbers skiers

Strong intermediate skiers with previous experience ski touring in small groups

Payment to: CMC account 03 1592 0103242 00

Notes for all courses

All courses are run by professional instructors, with an instructor to student ratio of 1:4 (except for avalanche awareness which is 1:6).

Course participation is on a ‘first in’ basis. Courses are subsidised through the generosity of the Fenwick Fund, established by Christopher Fenwick in 1985.

Confirmation of course attendance may be based on the individuals’ skills, abilities and experience. The instructors may choose not to accept a student on a course that requires higher level skills than the student possesses. Instructions have the final say on eligibility. The course schedule is generally arranged to allow participants to progressively build experience throughout the year by attending courses, then allowing time in between to practice what has been learnt on club trips.

Payment is required to confirm your place on the course. There is, unfortunately, no refund available for non-attendance once booked and confirmed (unless, of course, someone else is available to take your place). For snowcraft and intermediate instruction courses, full payment is required six weeks in advance of the course, unless otherwise arranged with the course co-ordinator.

Courses are normally based at one of the Club's base huts (Wyn Irwin at Mt Cook or Kennedy Lodge at Arthurs Pass), although some courses may be based at alpine huts or make use of tents or snow shelters. Generally, the intermediate course will involve spending Saturday night in an alpine shelter if the weather and conditions permit.

Participants are expected to have their own climbing gear irrespective of the technical level of the course that they are attending. Some equipment can be hired from outdoor shops (e.g. Bivouac) if necessary.

A general gear list is available, but your instructor may provide you with further advice on the gear you should bring. Details of typical trip gear lists can also be found in the Mountain Safety Mountaincraft Manual, or in the Adventure Consultants mountaineering handbook by Guy Cotter (These are available at outdoors stores such as Bivouac).

It is recommended that participants acquire a copy of one or these publications and be familiar with the contents. The details taught on the course may not necessarily follow these manuals in their entirety as techniques are always improving. The instructor has the final say over technique and the gear required for each course. They reserve the right to refuse attendance to those who turn up unprepared. They are also happy to answer any questions in advance of the course.

Thank you on behalf of the CMC Committee for your interest in attending a CMC instruction course.

If you have any questions, contact the Instruction Coordinator, Alastair McDowell - instruction@cmc.net.nz.