By Taylor Rowland and Emma Nelson
Introduction
“Cookery-books: 18th cent.” is an anonymous collection of culinary recipes that dates back to 1775. The book consists of 172 pages. There seems to be a change in handwriting in the later pages that could either indicate multiple authors or a singular author whose handwriting changed as a result of aging [1]. The book does not contain an index or table of contents and has no clear organization system. However, there are page numbers and many blank pages at the end which could indicate that there were meant to be more recipes written down.
These culinary recipes have become “the main medium for the recording and transmission of information and knowledge in pre-modern households” [2]. This particular recipe book gives insight into the various ingredients that were used in cooking. One ingredient that was particularly interesting and that was found often in this book was saltpetre. Saltpetre is a chemical compound also known as potassium nitrate, and was used in the Middle Ages as a common ingredient of salted meat [3]. The author of this recipe book used saltpetre often when preparing meats, especially in a recipe “To Coller Beef” [4].
During this era, it was common for recipe books to not only be exchanged among family members, but also with others in one’s community [5]. Recipe books being used this way were then not only informative, but also part of social customs. Cookbooks like this one could also be used for handwriting practice and general literacy [6]. While this recipe book does not contain much information besides the recipes themselves, there is still a lot of information within each of these recipes that give insight into the types of culinary recipes and ingredients used during this time.
Footnotes
[1] Wall, “Literacy and the Domestic Arts,” 384.
[2] Long, “Collecting Knowledge for the Family: Recipes, Gender and Practical Knowledge in the Early Modern English Household,” 82.
[3] “saltpeter; saltpetre,” Food Network, 2007, https://www.foodnetwork.com/terms/saltpeter.
[4] Cookery-books: 18th cent, 1775, Shelfmark MS 1816. Courtesy of the Wellcome Library, London, f. 4v.
[5] Wall, “Literacy and the Domestic Arts,” 396.
[6] Wall, “Literacy and the Domestic Arts,” 408.
Bibliography:
Long, Elaine. “Collecting Knowledge for the Family: Recipes, Gender and Practical Knowledge in the Early Modern English Household.” Centaurus 55 (2013): 81-103.
“Saltpeter; saltpetre.” Food Network, 2007, https://www.foodnetwork.com/terms/saltpeter.
Unknown author. Cookery-Books: 18th cent., c. 1775, Shelfmark MS 1816, Courtesy of the Wellcome Library, London.
Wall, Wendy. “Literacy and the Domestic Arts.” The Huntington Library Quarterly 73, no. 3 (2010): 383-412. https://go.libproxy.wakehealth.edu/login?url=https://www-proquest-com.go.libproxy.wakehealth.edu/docview/763492244?accountid=14868.
f. 3r
To Roast Lobsters
Take your Lobsters & tye them upon the spit &
Lay a dish under them a pint of white wine in it
& a anchovy or 2 & a little salt in it keep your
Lobster well basted when they are enough take some
cold lobster that [has] been boyled & break them out
Of the shels & put it into the dish of sauce which
Is under the lobsters & set the dish upon a chafing
Dish of [coales] & put some grated nutmeg & whole
Pepper and a little vinegar & as much thick
Melted butter as you think fit then take your
Lobsters & put them on the dish
To Salt A Swine
A pound of bay salt a pound of common salt a pound
Of course sugar for the first time a week after salt it
Well again with salt petre & common salt & a week
After that with common salt only let the bacon all
The while be kept well prest & turned 2 or 3 times a week
This quantity will salt a large swine
f. 3v
To Make Forcemeat for Fish
Take what fish you think convenient & shred it
put to it sweet margoram parsly & time & some capers
A little nutmeg & mace & salt shred them very
Small & some grated bread & a good piece of butter
With 2 eggs & so work it up together makeing it into
Balls rowling them up with a little flour so fry them
To Collar Salmon or [Turbutt]
Take out the bone lay it in water & salt petre 2 [penney]
Worth a little rock [allom] let it ly 2 days then [collar]
It up as you do brawn with the same ingredients as
You do it with white wine vinegar & spice & so use it
Boyl your salmon 1 hour & a half let this pickles boyl
Before you put it in when it is cold keep it in the same
f. 4r
To Make French Bread
To about three pound of flour put 3 spoon
fulls of good yest, with two eggs beat together
A little milk warmed, and put a little bitt
Of butter to it, make the paste as light as
possible, and put it in to a dozen/or so of
Small wood dishes, and set it before the fire
To rise and bake them in a quick oven
To make French Bread
To seven pounds of flour put three eggs
Beat together, two ounces of butter, half a pint
Of thick ale yest, warm half a pint of
Milk, or as much as will make a little
Paste knead it well & let it rise for half
An hour, then make it into roles, the time
Of baking is according to the bignes you make
The loafs
f. 4v
To Coller Beef
Take a large breast or flank of beef [cout]
A way all the skin of both inside & outside
& sinnews take out all the bones & rub it well
With salt petre let it ly four & twenty hours
Then lay it into hard spring water & so ly four
& twenty hours more (you must throw some salt
& salt petre into your water) then take it out &
Dry it well season it with black pepper cloves
Pepper cloves mace of each an ounce & six good
Nutmegs sweet herbs of all sorts a handfull
Of every sort mix your seasoning all together with
Salt and salt petre then season your beef & bowl is
[hard] up & let it ly all night then put it into
A pan or pot to bake put in a quart of claret
& as much water as will over it & a bunch of
Sweet herbs & so bake it in an oven fitt for
Brown bread when it is baked enough take of the
Cloth and tape it is baked in before it [les] quite cold & [flower]
up in a clean cloth as tight you can give it 2 or 3 clean
Cloths at first it will be fit to eat in a week
f. 5r
To Make Sausages
Skin your pork, taking of all the fat, & sinews, to
Which add, half the weight, one beef suet,
Shred them very small, & season, with pepper
& salt, only, add, a good deal of sage, small
Shred, when you fill them, putt in a little
Strong beer, or ale, when you don’t, put
Them into skins, you may work them, up
With an egg, & roll them, out with a
Little flour
An Excellent Green Pudding
Take two penny loaves, grated half a pound
Of beef suet, shred, half a pound of curran
Six eggs, a great handfull of parsley, sweet
Margerom, & time, a little handfull of
Marygold flowers, shred those, very small
Season it with cinnamon, sugar, & salt, & a
F. 5v
Little, cream, make it up, pretty stiff, lye it,
in a cloth & boyl it, two hours, Serve it up,
With wine, butter, and sugar,
To collar Beef
Take a flank of beef, & skin it & beat
it, well, take two penny worth of [unintelligible] as
much salt petre, & Rock Allom boyl them
Together in Vinegar, then rub it over your meat
put it into as much pump water, as will cover
it, A quart of salt, let it by a week, then dry
it, with a cloth, season it, with mace, Nutmeg
pepper, salt, cloves, & sweet herbs, so collar iIt up
as you do Brawn, boyl it up in the same--
Pickle, & hang it up, as you do, A Neats Tongue
Spring Garden Beef
Take a piece of lean beef, skin it & beat
F. 6r
It very small, lay it 24 hours, in pump water
& [unintelligible], Season it, with mace, Nutmeg--
pepper, Salt, A pound of fuel, with a little
Sweet herbs, then put it, into a oot, bake
it, two hour, clean out all the Gravy, then
Melt as much butter, as will cover it
Beef Alamode
Take a piece of Lean Beef, vut it, & Lard
it, as you do Scotch collops, Season it with---
Mace, Nutmeg, pepper, Salt, & Sweet herbs--
then throw a little red wine over it, then--
Lay a lace of collops, & a lace of Bay leaves
Bake it, & then it, is fitt for use
Artificial Venison
Beat your Beef, or mutton, well, then Season
it, with pepper & salt & rub it, over with Sheeps
Blood, then beat it, two hours, on the Ground--
F. 6v
To collar Salmon or Turbott
Take out the bone, lay it in watter, & salt
Petre, two penny worth a Little rock Allum,
Let it by, two days, then collar it, up, as you do
Brawn, with the same ingredients, as you do with
Wine Vinegar, & Spruce & so use it, boyl your Salmon
one hour & a half, let the pickles boyl before you put
it in, when it is cold, keep it in the same
To Pickle Tongues or westphalian ham
Lay them a Fortnight in salt, & salt pere then
take the brine, that comes from them, then put a
Quart of pump watter, to it, then put in a quart
Of salt, then let them ly a week or two Longer in
That brine then hang them up, where you burn
F. 7r
Bundle & minced caper, compound all together
In a dish of hot coals then Garnish with
Olives & capers to serve it up
Cuttellets
Take a neck of mutton & joyn it in
Every joynt, Season it with Sweet herbs, mace
Nutmeg, pepper, salt, cloves, a little white
Bread, grated, fry it with fresh butter brown
then clean it, out put it on Anchovies a Shallots
A quarter of a pint of white wine, a glass
of ale, a bit of butter as big as an Egg, let
them stew together then put in your stacks
close them up with two or three yolks of eggs
So, serve it up
F. 7v
A Hash
Take a shoulder of mutton, half roast it, &
cut it in thin slices as big as an Oyster, then
put in, half a pint of watter, half a pint, of
Wine, half a nutmeg, a blade of mace, a spoonful
of capers, two shallots, a little Parsley, & sage, two
Anchovies, a few barberrys, pint of oysters, a
Lemmon, sliced, with sweet marjoram, & time
then put in, wine, & a bit of butter, two yolks
of Eggs, use forcemeat to this dish
To Make Force Meat Balls
Take, Veal, or mutton, chopped small, then put
To it, half as much fuel, season it, with sweet herbs
Mace, Nutmeg, pepper, Salt, Grated bread, a Little
Onion, bacon, break into it one Egg, then make it, up for use
F. 8r
To Force Fish
Take a quart of white wine & vinegar & a
Pint of Ale, a bunch of sweet herbs, a handfull
Or two, of Fennell, 2 03 3, handfulls of salt,
boyl your fish, in salt, & water, put them into
that pickle
To collar a Pig
Take it, and bone it, & lay it, in water & salt,
& Vinegar, six hours, then Season it, with mace,
Nutmeg, pepper, & Salt, a bunch of Sweet herbs,
Collar it, up, as you do, Brawn, & boyl it, in
Vinegar, water, & Sweet herbs, & pepper, & keep
It in the same,