The blog of a Seattle-based designer with a touch of dirtbag.
October 2021 - Climb at Red Rocks
Ingalls Peak via the East Ridge
Central Cascades | September 6th, 2021
Trad Multi-Pitch | 5.7 | 6 pitches
We were a team of two who successfully climbed the East Ridge route on Ingalls. Erika and I hiked up the night before to meet up with some other folks in our Intermediate Mountaineers SIG. It was pretty rainy and dark so that evening was pretty uneventful. We had a very lazy start the next morning and got to the base of the climb before 11AM. We didn't rope up for the first pitch as most of it was class 3 but getting to the key hole notch involved a low fifth class move so we roped up there. I led the remaining pitches which involved super fun climbing through gendarmes and exposed ridges. We were behind two other parties so we moved somewhat slowly and reached the summit by 3PM. We descended the iconic South Ridge with three rappels and got back home late that evening. Another favorite to add to the books!
Vesper via Ragged Edge
North Cascades | September 6th, 2021
Trad Multi-Pitch | 5.7 | 6 pitches
We were a team of two who successfully climbed the Ragged Edge route on Vesper. Kelsey and I camped out at the trailhead the night before to allow us an early start. We left the Sunrise Mine Trailhead at 6:10AM with a persistent fog that hid all the views. The trail felt a little damp which made us a little nervous about our chances of reaching the summit. A gut feeling told us to push forward which paid off as the clouds cleared as we got higher. We reach the base of pitch 1 before 10AM. Kelsey led the first pitch and we switched leads as we progressed up the climb. The clouds cleared out which revealed incredible views of the glacier, Copper Lake, Kulshan, and Dakobed. We reached the summit before 1:30PM and enjoyed a nice quick break before heading down. Overall this day was a lovely car to car push with fun climbing and incredible views!
The Tooth via the South Face
Central Cascades | August 15th, 2021
Trad Multi-Pitch | 5.4 | 4 pitches
We were a team of two who successfully climbed the South Face route on the Tooth. Amanda and I left the trailhead around 6AM. The trail wasn't 100% clear so we had a little bit of bushwhacking but we still managed to be the first climbers on the route. I led all four pitches which was super fun and chill and we reached the summit right around noon. The day was clear and we could see Kaleetan, Chair, Tahoma, Kulshan, Shuksan, Stuart, Dakobed and several other Cascade classics. The best part was seeing Amanda complete her first alpine climb!
Hiked the John Muir Trail!
The Sierras | July 21st - August 4th, 2021
Backpacking | 200+ miles | 41k ft elevation gain
I hiked over 200 miles in 15 days (one day shorter than anticipated) and summited Whitney. It was intense but super awesome! Sun, mountains, hail storms, high passes, and views, oh my!
Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys
North Cascades | July 10th - July 11th, 2021
Mountaineering | ~22 miles | 5,950 ft elevation gain
Some essential gear for this trip:
Crevasse Rescue gear (Carabiners, prusik loops, cordelette, etc.)
I climbed in a team of six up Mt. Shuksan via the Fishers Chimneys Route between July 10th and July 11th. This was my first grade III climb and the following are my notes of highlights during the trip:
There were two moats to deal with: one before the first chimneys section and one past the lower camp entering the second chimneys section. Not hard to cross but we needed to handle with care.
Winnie’s Slide was in good condition. There is a suspect area but it was easy to protect via a running belay and still has good snow coverage.
There was exposed blue ice and small crevasses to cross after the highest camp above Winnie’s slide (getting on Upper Curtis Glacier). We didn’t feel the need to protect it as it was a short section.
Hell’s Highway was in good condition. Fairly easy to protect in a running belay. I did place one ice screw down for a small icy section.
Sulfide Glacier was in good shape with some minor open crevasses.
Tip for those considering to summit on a Saturday or Sunday: Plan to reach the summit pyramid by 6am or earlier. Otherwise you’ll deal with crowds or get stuck behind a huge line trying to rappel out.
There were plenty of good rap stations everywhere.
There was a good water source at the highest camp above Winnie’s Slide.