Storage Bins: This particular type of plastic storage bin (clear Sterilite with purple latches and flat interior) has proven to be very effective in functioning like a wet box to prolong the workability of projects (provided that projects were misted with water every other day). The transparent property of these bins also allows the teacher and students to more easily identity their project. Bins have extra advantages over plastic bags: 1) The teacher need not check that every plastic bag is shut properly, 2) Using a container is less likely to result in smudging delicate or very detailed work, and 3) Students are generally more respectful and careful of their peers projects. For instance, if using plastic bags, students are sometimes tempted to put their bagged project directly on top of other students' projects.
Wet Box: A wet box (aka magic box) works great, especially for maintaining moisture in in-progress clay projects. It is especially useful for storing clay projects for that will span several weeks and can potentially keep projects moist for months. Also, projects that have become too dry to work on, can become workable again if placed in the wet box. Caution: Try your best to avoid getting plaster particles in your clay. Depending on the size of the plaster particles and type of plaster, this can potentially result in cracking, a blow out, or a glaze defect.
Plastic gallon bags also work great for storing clay projects, especially Ziploc brand Freezer Gallon bags. Student names can be written on each bag with a Sharpie. These bags can often be reused by other classes to safe money and the previous user's name can be crossed out and replaced with the next student's name.
Large Plastic Dry Cleaners Bags: When not being worked on, projects should be kept under and/or in plastic. It is also a good idea to keep covered the parts of a sculpture not being worked on. Large plastic bags from the dry cleaners work great for larger sculptures. If one desires for the project to remain at the present state of moisture, the piece should be misted with water and then wrapped in many layers of plastic, with the air locked out as much as possible either with tape or a bread twist tie to close the plastic bags.
Large or delicate sculptures should be kept on a ware board while working and during storage to allow for easy and safer transport.
After throwing forms, be sure to immediately wire off the projects from the bat. Move the pieces to a wooden wareboard and allow the piece to firm up to the point where the rim is strong enough (soft end of leatherhard) to support the project when turned upside down. Once the rims are leatherhard, the pieces can then be turned upside down to allow the bottom of the pieces to reach leatherhard. When a thrown piece is leather hard, the foot can be trimmed. It is also a good idea to loosely cover the thrown forms in plastic to redistribute moisture and to slow the drying. The pieces should be checked daily to ensure that they do not dry too quickly before they have been trimmed.
Metal Drying Racks, such as this, work well for storing clay projects without taking up too much space.
Once trimmed, the finished piece should be moved to a metal drying rack, similar to this (but without a bat or board underneath) so as to allow complete air circulation to the piece. (If the form has attachments, however, such as a mug, draping plastic over the form or around the attachment/join is a good idea to prevent cracking.)
Bisqueware on Top, Greenware Below: If storing both bisque and unfired clay projects on the same wire rack, it is best to store the bisqued projects on the top shelves with the unfired clay projects below so that any clay dust or residue does not fall onto the bisqued pieces.