Finishing with Double Fold Binding By Hand


The double fold binding with mitered corners is the most familiar edge finish for quilts. There are two ways of finishing with double fold binding, hand sewn or machine sewn. Let's begin with the hand-sewn finish.

After completing the quilt top, it's time to make a sandwich. A quilt sandwich-with the quilt top on top, the batting in the middle and the backing fabric on the bottom. Make sure all the layers are straight and smooth. Let the batting and backing extend at least 1" around the quilt top. Then pin in place with safety pins. Use the large and sharp safety pins made for quilting. Avoid ruining the fabric by punching holes or pulling threads. Baste by hand all the way around the edge.

Next, quilt any way you would like. The possibilities literally are endless. One of the simplest ways is to "stitch in the ditch". Which is sewing over the seams with clear quilting thread on the top and thread matching the backing in the bobbin. When you have finished quilting, you will do a final trim around the edge of your quilt. Leave at least a 1/4" to 1/2" wide edge all the way around. This way when the binding is folded over the edge, it will be a little puffy.

Double fold binding can be created in two different ways. There's biased-cut double binding and there's straight of grain-cut binding. Bias-cut binding is a bit more work, but it's useful for a curved edge. Look to the left hand navigation and you'll find a section about making bias strips. Straight of grain-cut binding is cut from selvedge to selvedge, just as you would cut any fabric strip.

It's a good idea to prepare your binding as you're piecing the quilt top. This means that as soon as you are done quilting, you can move on to the binding and finish your quilt. You can store the binding around a empty paper towel roll to keep it wrinkle free. I usually like to use the same fabric for the backing and the binding. To me, it just looks more finished.


Before cutting the strips, you need to decide how wide you want the binding to finish at. A 1-7/8" wide strip will finish at 1/4", 2-1/2" will finish at 3/8" and 3-1/4" will finish at 1/2". I usually cut 2-1/2" strips. Measure and add together all sides of the quilt-then add another 6"-8" inches. This will tell what length the binding needs to be. After cutting the fabric strips, sew them together end to end, using a 1/4" diagonal seam.




Press seams open and trim off any flaps.



Fold this continuous strip in half, wrong sides together, down its length. Match the top edges. Press. You now have a strip of double fold binding.

Beginning in the center of one side, place the binding strip against the right side of the quilt top, aligning the binding strip's raw edge with the quilt top's raw edge. The excess of batting and backing that you have left will extend past the raw edge of the quilt top. Leave a 3"-4" tail at beginning of the binding. You will stitch through all layers, using a 1/4" seam.


When stitching is about 2" from the corner, make a mark on the binding that is 1/4" from the edge of the quilt. Stitch up to the mark and back-stitch to hold in place. Cut threads and remove the quilt from the machine.


Fold the binding strip upward to make a 45 degree angle as shown. Finger press. While holding the diagonal fold in place with your finger, fold the strip back down, covering the first fold, bringing the binding strip down in line with the next edge.


This makes a horizontal fold that aligns with the top edge of the quilt. Start sewing again at the top of the horizontal fold, stitching through all layers. Sew around the quilt, turning each corner in the same manner. Stop stitching at least 4" from where you began.


To finish the binding, return to the beginning of the binding strip. Cut a 45 degree angle from left top to the right bottom. Then, press under a 1/2"seam allowance on the beginning tail. Keep the 45 degree angle. Then tuck the ending tail inside the beginning tail. Trim the end tail, leaving a 1-1/2" overlap inside the beginning tail.


Refold the beginning tail, keeping the end of the tail tucked inside. Pin in place and finish sewing the binding to the quilt. Hand-stitch the fold closed.


Turn the binding to the back of the quilt. Sew in place by hand using a blind stitch and a single thread that matches the binding. Another reason that I like to use the same fabric for the backing and the binding.


Try using hand quilting thread, which is a heavy, coated thread. Because it's coated, it doesn't tangle as much. Cut a length of about three feet of hand quilting thread when binding. This means less time tying knots, burying threads, and untangling thread. If your thread does twist, let the needle dangle and the thread will untwist by itself. The coated hand quilting thread glides easily through the fabric. As it is thicker than regular sewing cotton thread, it can be tugged and pulled without breaking. Make sure you cover any machine stitching.

To create mitered corners on the back, hand-stitch the binding up to a corner. Then fold the opposite side over at the corner, tucking in to create a mitered corner. Pin place, take a stitch or two in the fold to secure it. Then stitch the binding in place up to the next corner. Finish each corner the same way, same direction. When you are back to the beginning, stitch closed. You are done...!