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Quality of the fabric and the weave.
cheaper fabrics often incorporate man-made fibres (polyester) into the fabric blend which can bring a shine to the unintended fabric.
on the other hand, fabrics made by high-quality mills can create a fabric that is intended to have a bit of shine when the light catches it.
for example, a sharkskin (or pick and pick) a high-quality mohair/wool blend (sometimes with silk as well) suit fabric will have a sheen because of (1) the weave reflects light differently (2) mohair and silk have natural sheens.
the weave is a 2x2 twill using a two colour warp & a two colour weft. Warp and weft refer to the horizontal and vertical orientation of the threads in the weave. So different colours plus different
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In sharkskin, there is variation between how the 2 colours of weft and 2 colours of the warp are woven resulting in a stepped pattern to the sharkskin. Light reflects differently off of the colours
Additionally, mohair and silk have natural sheens.
alternatively, a non-sharkskin weave made with a wool/mohair blend will have a sheen which varies depending on how much mohair is in the mix. English mills such as John Foster or Charles Clayton are known for their mohair suiting fabrics.
Same for Dormeuil, which produced the iconic Tonik suiting (they still make sharkskin fabric to this day) which better Mod suits were made of and so to the suits of celebrities like Frank Sinatra wore.
Think of Mod suits from the ’60s. Which were sharkskin with wool/mohair/poly blends if they were cheap. Quite shiny because of the weave and mix of fabric.
Better mod suits were made from Tonik or other wool/mohair (and silk) blends making for a more tasteful sheen.
High-quality silk, wool/silk, wool/silk/linen, or linen/silk fabrics will also have varying degrees of sheen
I like a suit which has a bit of sheen and have several picks and pick, wool/mohair and silk suits. They often get comments for the very fact that in the right light they have an interesting sheen that is not garish and overpowering
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