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⚠️Some previous images could be part of copyright so we removed them. We will soon add free images. Thank you.
Here you will find text and image based tutorials of blocks for taekwondo. We included full colored belt's blocks and explained them.
White Belt & Yellow Belt (Beginner)
These are the foundational blocks every student learns first.
Arae Makgi (Low Block): The fundamental low-level block.
Momtong Makgi (Middle Block): Also called An Makgi (Inside Block). The standard block for the torso.
Olgul Makgi (High Block): The fundamental high-level block for the face and head.
Hecho Makgi (Double Block): A preparatory movement for practicing simultaneous low and middle blocks.
Green Belt (Intermediate)
Students begin learning more advanced and specific blocking angles.
5. Bakat Makgi (Outside Block): The counterpart to the inside block, coming from the outside-in.
6. Yeot Pero Makgi (Double Forearm Block): A stronger, reinforced version of the middle block.
7. Hecho Makgi (Spreading Block): A wedge-shaped block used to deflect attacks coming from the front.
Blue Belt & Red Belt (Advanced)
This stage introduces blocks that require more coordination and are used in specific situations.
8. Sonnal Makgi (Knife-Hand Block): The foundational open-hand block.
* Sonnal Arae Makgi (Knife-Hand Low Block)
* Sonnal Momtong Makgi (Knife-Hand Middle Block)
* Olgul Sonnal Makgi (Knife-Hand High Block)
9. Han Sonnal Mok Chigi (Single Knife-Hard Block & Strike): A combined blocking and striking motion.
10. Hwangso Makgi (Bull Block): A powerful, sweeping double block.
11. Bituro Makgi (Twisting Block): A circular, deflecting block.
12. Debande Makgi (Rising Block): A block that rises to deflect an attack.
13. Eotgoreo Makgi (Cross Block): An "X" shaped block used to stop overhead or thrusting attacks.
Black Belt (Poomsae & Master Level)
These are highly specialized blocks, often found in advanced Poomsae and self-defense scenarios.
14. Dwijibo Makgi (Turning Back Block): A spinning back-hand block.
15. Geodeo Makgi (Pressing Block): A block that presses down on an opponent's limb.
16. Meongyeoki Makgi (Pushing Block): Used to create distance while blocking.
17. Gawi Makgi (Scissor Block): A sophisticated double block using both arms in a scissoring motion.
18. Doo Palmok Makgi (Double Forearm Block): Variations like Wi-Palmok Makgi (Upper Forearm Block).
19. Kodureo Makgi (Hooking Block): A circular block used to hook and control an opponent's arm.
20. Hechyo Makgi (Target Block): A precise, focused block to a specific small target.
Area makki
Step-by-Step Guide:
Starting Position (Chunbi): Begin in a Ready Stance.
Chambering: Make two fists. Bring your blocking arm (e.g., right arm) across your body, with the fist near the opposite shoulder (palm facing you). Your other fist is pulled back sharply to your hip, palm up. This is the "power side."
The Block: In a single, sharp motion, swing your blocking arm down and across your body. Your forearm should rotate so that the back of your fist faces forward at the end of the movement.
Final Position: The blocking arm ends up in front of the same-side thigh, about a fist's distance away. Your body remains facing forward. The movement should feel powerful and final, like you are deflecting a strong kick.
Key Points to Remember:
Timing: The block and the forward motion of your stance should finish together.
Rotation: The forearm rotation (twist) is crucial for generating power.
Focus: The power comes from the sharp pull-back of the non-blocking arm.
Momtong makgi
Middle Block
Step-by-Step Guide:
Starting Position (Chunbi): Begin in a Ready Stance.
Chambering: Make two fists. Bring your blocking arm across your body so your fist is near the opposite hip, with the palm facing down. Your other fist is pulled back to your hip, palm up.
The Block: In a powerful, circular motion, swing your blocking arm outward and up. Your forearm rotates so that at the end, your palm faces your body.
Final Position: Your blocking forearm is angled across your torso, with the fist stopping at shoulder height. The other fist remains firmly on your hip. Imagine deflecting a punch away from your centerline.
Key Points to Remember:
The Circle: The path of the block is not straight; it's a large, circular motion.
The Angle: Your blocking forearm should be at a roughly 45-degree angle, not horizontal.
Position: The fist should not go past the centerline of your body.
Olgul makgi
Olgul Makki
Step-by-Step Guide:
Starting Position (Chunbi): Begin in a Ready Stance.
Chambering: Make two fists. Bring your blocking arm down and across your body, with the fist near the opposite knee, palm facing down. Your other fist is pulled back to your hip, palm up.
The Block: Drive your blocking arm upward on a diagonal path across your body. Rotate your forearm powerfully so the palm faces forward at the end.
Final Position: Your blocking arm is angled above your forehead, with the fist about a fist's distance away from your head. Your forearm should protect your head without blocking your own vision.
Key Points to Remember:
The Angle: The arm is not straight up and down; it's angled to deflect an attack to the side.
Don't Flare: Keep your elbow slightly bent and in front of you, not flared out to the side.
Power: The power comes from the big, sweeping motion and the final forearm twist.
Hecho makgi
Step-by-Step Guide:
Starting Position (Chunbi): Begin in a Ready Stance with fists at your sides.
Chambering: Bring both fists in front of your navel, crossing your wrists (right over left or left over right as required).
The Block: With a powerful, outward motion, swing both arms out to your sides. One arm performs a Low Block (Arae Makgi) and the other performs a Middle Block (Momtong Makgi).
Final Position: You end in a strong stance with one arm extended low and the other extended across your torso at middle height. Your head should face forward.
Key Points to Remember:
Simultaneous Action: Both blocks must happen at the exact same time.
Power: The power comes from the sharp, explosive outward movement from the center.
Focus: Maintain a strong, balanced stance throughout the movement.
Bakat makgi
Step-by-Step Guide:
Chambering: From a ready stance, chamber your blocking arm (e.g., right arm). The fist starts near the same-side hip, with the palm facing up. Your other fist is pulled back to your hip, palm up. (Notice the difference from Momtong Makgi: the palm is up, not down).
The Block: Execute a powerful, outward circular motion. Your forearm rotates so that the palm finishes facing down.
Final Position: Your blocking forearm is angled across your torso, with the fist stopping at shoulder height. The motion ends by "pushing" the attack outward away from you.
Key Points to Remember:
Chamber is Key: The upward-palm chamber is the main identifier of this block.
Circular Path: Like the inside block, this is not a straight-line push.
Application: Think of deflecting a hook punch away from your head.
Yeot Pero Makgi
Step-by-Step Guide:
Chambering: Make two fists. Bring them together on one side of your body (e.g., right side). The blocking arm (right) is chambered like a standard middle block (fist near opposite shoulder), while the reinforcing arm (left) is placed in front of it, with the left fist touching the inside of the right forearm. Both palms face you.
The Block: Drive both arms forward together in a unified, powerful motion. The forearms rotate during the movement.
Final Position: Both arms are extended across your body in a strong middle block position. The non-dominant arm (left) reinforces the blocking arm (right) by pressing against it, creating a solid "double forearm" wall.
Key Points to Remember:
Unified Power: Both arms must move as one unit. There is no lag.
Reinforcement: The supporting arm adds significant structural strength to the block.
Stance: The stability of the Back Stance is crucial for absorbing impact.
Purpose: To deflect a direct, linear attack (like a front kick or straight punch) upward and outward, using a wedge-shaped motion. Note: This is different from the White Belt "Double Block" which shares the same name.
Stance: Walking Stance (Gunnun Sogi).
Step-by-Step Guide:
Chambering: Bring both open hands together in front of your navel, with the fingertips touching and palms facing you, forming a diamond shape.
The Block: In a single, explosive motion, drive your hands forward and upward, separating them as they move.
Final Position: Your arms end up in a wide "V" shape, with the palms facing forward and the hands at about shoulder height. The motion should imagine splitting an incoming attack in two.
Key Points to Remember:
Simultaneous Action: The forward and upward motion happens at once.
Open Hands: This block uses the palm heel (Sonbadak) or the knife-hand, not the fist.
Target: It is designed to catch and deflect an attack like a front kick, redirecting its force up and away.
Knife hand
Purpose: The foundational open-hand block, using the outside blade of the hand (Sonnal). It is versatile and used for low, middle, and high sections.
Stance: Back Stance (Dwit Kubi) is most common.
Step-by-Step Guide (for Sonnal Momtong Makgi - Middle Knife-Hand Block):
Chambering: Open your hands into a proper "Knife-Hand" (fingers tight, thumb tucked). Bring your blocking hand (e.g., right) across your body, with the palm facing up and the hand near your left shoulder. Your other hand is pulled back as a guard or to your hip.
The Block: Execute a powerful, circular outward motion, similar to Bakat Makgi. Rotate your forearm so the palm finishes facing down.
Final Position: Your blocking arm is extended across your torso, with the knife-hand protecting your solar plexus. The attacking tool is the fleshy outer blade of the hand, from the wrist to the base of the pinky finger.
Key Points to Remember:
Hand Position: Keep the fingers tight and the thumb firmly tucked. A floppy hand is weak and can lead to injury.
The Angle: The blocking arm is at an angle, deflecting the force away.
Variations: The chamber and motion are the same for Sonnal Arae Makgi (Low) and Olgul Sonnal Makgi (High); only the final position changes.
Purpose: A combined blocking and striking motion. It teaches fluidity and the principle of simultaneous defense and attack.
Stance: Back Stance (Dwit Kubi).
Step-by-Step Guide:
Chambering: Chamber both hands together on one side. Your rear hand (e.g., right) is chambered for a knife-hand block (palm up). Your front hand (left) is chambered for a knife-hand strike (palm down), positioned near the blocking hand's elbow.
The Motion: In one explosive, whipping motion, the rear hand executes a standard Knife-Hand Block (Sonnal Makgi) outward, while the front hand simultaneously executes a Knife-Hand Strike (Sonnal Chigi) to the opponent's neck.
Final Position: You end with one arm in a solid middle block and the other extended in a finishing strike. Your body should be turned sideways in the back stance.
Key Points to Remember:
Simultaneous Action: The block and strike are one movement, not two separate ones.
Power from Hip: The power comes from the sharp rotation of your hips into the back stance.
Economy of Motion: This technique is highly efficient, defending and countering in the same instant.
Purpose: A circular, "wiping" or "brushing" block used to deflect a linear attack (like a straight punch) to the side with minimal effort.
Stance: Walking Stance (Gunnun Sogi) or Back Stance (Dwit Kubi).
Step-by-Step Guide:
Chambering: Your blocking arm (e.g., right) is chambered with the palm facing up, similar to the start of a high block.
The Block: Instead of blocking upward, swing the arm in a large, relaxed, horizontal circle across the front of your body. The forearm rotates naturally during the swing.
Final Position: The arm finishes across the body, with the palm facing down, having "wiped" the incoming attack away. It is a soft, redirecting block rather than a hard, stopping block.
Key Points to Remember:
Circular and Relaxed: The motion should be fluid, not stiff. You are redirecting energy, not meeting it head-on.
Timing: This block relies on precise timing to intercept and guide the attack past you.
Application: Highly effective against jabs and straight punches to the face.
Purpose: To defend against attacks aimed at the face or upper chest in a rising, scooping motion.
Stance: Walking Stance (Gunnun Sogi).
Step-by-Step Guide:
Chambering: Your blocking arm (e.g., right) is chambered low, with the fist near the same-side hip, palm facing up. Your other fist is on your hip.
The Block: Drive your blocking arm forward and upward on a diagonal path. The arm stays relatively straight, and the palm remains facing up throughout the motion, "scooping" upward.
Final Position: The arm is extended forward and upward, with the fist at about chin or nose level, protecting your centerline. The palm is still facing up, ready to potentially grab.
Key Points to Remember:
Palm Up: This is the key identifier. The palm does not twist over.
The Scoop: Imagine scooping up sand and throwing it forward. The path is a rising diagonal.
Target: Ideal for deflecting uppercuts or rising kicks.
Purpose: A defensive move used while spinning to protect yourself from an attack coming from the rear or side. It utilizes the back of the forearm.
Stance: Often transitions from a Front Stance to a Back Stance.
Step-by-Step Guide:
Setup: Begin facing forward in a ready position.
The Spin: Pivot sharply on the balls of your feet, turning 180 or 360 degrees.
The Block: As you turn, swing your arm in a horizontal arc. The arm is bent, and the blocking tool is the back of your forearm.
Final Position: You end the spin in a solid stance (e.g., Back Stance) with your arm extended across your body, the back of the forearm facing the opponent. It's a quick, sweeping motion to clear space and protect your head and torso during the turn.
Key Points to Remember:
Tight Spin: Keep your arms close to your body during the turn for balance and speed.
Target: The block aims to deflect or interrupt an attack aimed at your upper body during your vulnerable spinning moment.
Flow: This block is never static; it's all about fluidity and momentum.
Purpose: To control an opponent's limb by pressing it down, setting them up for a counter-attack. It's a block used for manipulation, not just deflection.
Stance: Walking Stance (Gunnun Sogi).
Step-by-Step Guide:
Chambering: Start with your hand open, chambered high near your shoulder.
The Press: Execute a forceful, downward pressing motion. Use your palm heel (Sonbadak) to make contact.
Final Position: Your arm is extended downward, having pressed the opponent's punching or kicking limb down and away from your body. Your body weight drives down into the press for maximum effect.
Key Points to Remember:
Control, Don't Just Hit: The goal is to pin or control the opponent's arm, creating an opening.
Use Body Weight: Don't just use arm strength. Sink your weight into the stance to make the press powerful.
Follow-Up: This block is almost always immediately followed by a counter-strike.
Purpose: A sophisticated double block using both arms in a scissoring motion to trap an incoming attack, such as a kick or a punch.
Stance: Often a deep Front Stance (Ap Kubi) or Straddle Stance (Juchum Sogi).
Step-by-Step Guide:
Chambering: Cross your arms in front of your chest, one arm over the other (e.g., right over left).
The Scissor: With explosive power, uncross your arms, swinging one upward (as a high block variant) and the other downward (as a low block variant) simultaneously.
Final Position: You end with one arm high and one arm low, having created a "scissor" that can catch and trap a limb between them. The power comes from the sharp, opposing forces of the two arms.
Key Points to Remember:
Simultaneous & Opposite: Both arms must move at the exact same time in opposite directions.
Trapping: The true application is to trap the attack, not just block it.
Power Stance: Requires a strong, rooted stance to be effective.
Purpose: A circular, "hooking" block used to deflect and then control an opponent's wrist or arm, often to unbalance them or set up a lock/throw.
Stance: Back Stance (Dwit Kubi) or Walking Stance (Gunnun Sogi).
Step-by-Step Guide:
Chambering: Start with your arm extended or chambered normally.
The Hook: Instead of a direct block, swing your arm in a large, circular, and inward motion. The hand is open, and you "hook" with the wrist and forearm.
Final Position: After the circular deflection, your arm pulls back toward your body, controlling the opponent's arm with it. It's a "sticky" block that doesn't end after the initial impact.
Key Points to Remember:
Circular Deflection: The goal is to circle around the attack and catch the limb.
Control: The finish involves pulling, unbalancing the opponent.
Soft Block: This is a "soft" or "redirectional" block, using the opponent's energy against them.