Green Lantern

Time to begin the layout. Rather than just free hand and hope it came out right, I plotted the outline in goggle SktechUp to scale and made a graph of the front curve. The drop cuts off the end of the 5mm luan will be used to make support laminates for the framing. A 50 pound bag of sand really makes a good weight! Also ripped up some 2X4 s to make the ¾ framing strips. Laminating the front curve: I added a few staples to secure everything and prevent delamination. A little touch up with the belt sander will level any imperfections. Now I need to make one more like it except in the reverse and then on to the framing. You can see the laminated curve strips at the front as well as 3 ½ inch laminated strips that run the length of the camper. These are for rigidity and to provide support to attach cabinets and the bed platforms to the wall. Everything is ¾ inch thick – no wires will be run in the walls. Once it is insulated and the inside attached it’s pretty strong and lightweight. Now to start filling in the staple divots and sanding them smooth. Now to make the other side like this one (except for the door of course!

Got a chance to work on the subframe today, here it is all painted and ready to go. Its kinda hard to see, but the subframe is wrapped on the outside with white aluminum trim. Now time to get the flooring ready to go on top of it.. First we painted the underside of the floor – it really doesn’t matter the color because aluminum flashing is going over it. I usually paint the underside to give one more layer of protection for the underside. Floor flipped over and ready to go on the subframe . The two strips will be removed later. Floor attached to the subframe. A few shots from underneath

Now time to attach the wall. Today is the day for the first of the bends. This is the most difficult part of the build since the lower bend is at a tighter radius than the top. If I can get this bend in place then everything else should go smoothly. Preparing to bend by inserting the sheet into the tension straps and checking for fit. Applying adhesives to the edges. Applying some pressure to the straps to make the bend. A little bit of water sprayed on both sides helps to ease the bend – so far no cracking noises. Got the bend made and stapled down now to Measure for the spars. Now to attend to the second bend in the front. The 2×4 is a temporary support until I get all the spars cut and installed

The plywood is 5mm luan – a little stiff to bend, but if you prebend it – it can be coaxed into shape. The good news – no creaks, cracks , or pops – Just one smooth sheet wrapped around the lower curve. The upper portion will be easier since it’s one curve. The screws are Just temporary until the adhesive is set. I added the washers to spread out the clamping force of the screws. What you do not see are the 18 gauge 1 inch long staples placed along the edges and the spars. I insulated with one inch foam insulation. Once the top portion is skinned, and screws removed, I’ll do a flush cut to trim off the excess. I got the insulation installed and gaps sealed and edges sealed with foil tape. A little water helps to make the bend. Here’s a close up of the screws and washers – it helps to spreads out the clamping force of the screw. After the bend is set – these will be removed. Finally flush cut the edges, all the screws removed, washers removed, counter sunk holes, screw re-installed , filled, sanded flush

My fiberglass tape and epoxy arrived from my good friends at Raka. Got my disposable gloves, cups, spreaders, rollers, etc – all you need for applying the glass tape. I decided to use the fiberglass tape because the edges are sealed and won’t unravel. First I took a router with a round over bit to round the edges – – fiberglass doesn’t really like 90* corners. Then, using the tape, I sealed all the edges followed by a coat on the entire side. I finished by applying a skim coat of filler to hide the tape edges and to smooth everything out. One thing I learned from this: wear long sleeves when sanding fiberglass – it does tend to get a little itchy. Sanding is done !

Now to move to the front bed / storage area. The color – its not called the green lantern for nuttin! Coleman green applied to the surfaces. I started on applying the semi gloss sealer to the interior as well. Finally got around to using that fabric I had printed. I use the curtains as a lightweight alternative to cabinet doors – it hides the storage spaces, but also saves on weight. The fabric is velco-ed in place so I can remove it to clean it if I need to. The cabinet for the microwave is finished and microwave installed. It should ride well in this position. We went with the wood Rope trim for the edges along the ceiling. Mrs Starleen says that it gives it just the right touch. The front area finally got some attention as well – when the green enamel paint finally cured, I was able to cut out the front access door. Close up of the door and clasp Plenty of room to store stuff in here!

Now for the first color coat – you guess it – ALL green. Did away with the two toned scheme and went with all Coleman green. The front and rear graphics will break up the color. Now to play the waiting game for the paint to dry – then install the windows door and next comes wiring the trailer harnesses and lights. The graphics are applied and time for the roll out. We finally made the awning for the green lantern – The EasyUp was getting just too heavy to lug around for each trip – so I came up with this pretty simple set up and can be done by one person. BYW, it rained later that day so we know it holds up to the wind and rain – the water just rolled off

Build Journal can be found HERE: