Greystone and Lydes Hill

Anyone who has spent time in Sidmouth will know the view west, where a dense blanket of forest drapes over the high hills on the western flank of the valley. It’s a landscape that feels solid and unchanging, a dark green backdrop to the town. But have you ever wondered what life thrives within those deep woods? What secrets does this familiar skyline hold?

The answer is a story of fascinating contrasts. This area, known as Greystone and Lydes Hill, is not one single habitat but a compelling mosaic where managed commercial forestry and wild, resilient nature exist side-by-side. The deepest, darkest parts of the woods are often quiet, but life bursts forth in the most unexpected of places.

This guide is an invitation to look beyond the dominant pines and discover the unique habitats and surprising biodiversity of this often-overlooked corner of Sidmouth. It’s a place that reveals how even a small break in the canopy can create a corridor of hope for the wild world.

Greystone and Lydes Hill are adjacent landscapes forming the high ground on the western side of the Sid Valley, near Sidmouth, Devon. They sit alongside the well-known areas of Muttersmoor and Bulverton Hill, forming a significant part of the East Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). This entire landscape falls within the influence of the world-renowned Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site. The effort of the ascent is rewarded instantly. From this high ground, you're greeted with wonderful views stretching down the valley, over the rooftops of the town, and out to the expansive blue of the English Channel.

At first glance, the area appears to be a uniform woodland. Official classifications designate it as 'Woodland and Scrub,' but this simple label hides a tale of two very different landscapes. The majority of the slopes are covered in commercial conifer plantations, predominantly composed of Douglas Fir. These tall, non-native trees create a dense, year-round canopy that blocks sunlight from reaching the ground, effectively suppressing the development of a healthy under-storey of shrubs and the rich flora of the forest floor, silencing the ecological activity that would thrive in a native woodland.

However, the most ecologically important feature of Greystone and Lydes Hill is not the forest itself, but the wide bridleway that runs the length of the hill. This path is more than just a track for walkers; it is a vital open corridor cut through the dense conifers. This gap in the canopy allows sunlight to pour in, creating a sun-drenched micro-habitat where nature, stifled in the surrounding plantations, can finally flourish. This simple path becomes a biodiversity hotspot, a lifeline for local flora and fauna.

Along the edges of the bridleway, you’ll find areas of scrub—a habitat dominated by shrubs often from the rose family—such as bramble, hawthorn, and dog-rose—or gorse in more acidic conditions. This habitat represents a natural process called succession, the transitional stage where open ground gradually evolves into mature woodland over many decades.

While often perceived as "untidy" or in need of clearing, scrub is a vital and often underappreciated habitat in its own right. It provides essential food, shelter, and nesting sites for a huge variety of wildlife. The dense, thorny structure offers protection that is hard to find elsewhere. A classic example is the nightingale, a bird whose survival is highly dependent on the dense shelter provided by this type of scrubland.

The sunny, open corridor of the bridleway is the best place to find the special plants and animals that call these hills home. As you walk, keep an eye out for these local species:

• Yellow Pimpernel (Lysimachia nemorum): A delicate flower found in a very restricted colony of just a couple of square metres, making it a special find.

• Greater Stitchwort (Stellaria holostea): Look for the bright, star-like white flowers of this wildflower, which can be seen blooming during April.

• Western Gorse: This is one of three species of gorse found in the area. Together, they ensure that a splash of yellow colour can be found on the hillsides nearly every month of the year.

• Bank Hair-cap Moss (Polytrichum formosum): The acidic and well-drained banks, a product of the underlying Upper Greensand geology, provide the perfect home for this moss to colonize.

• Whitewash Lichen: Lichens are excellent indicators of environmental health, as their ability to thrive depends on factors like humidity, air quality, and the surface they grow on. Greystone and Lydes Hill is a top site for monitoring this particular species, highlighting the clean air of the high ground.

Peacock Butterfly: During the summer months, the sunny corridor comes alive with invertebrates. The Peacock Butterfly is one of the many pollinators that thrives here, finding nectar in the flowering plants.

Greystone and Lydes Hill is a perfect example of a landscape of contrasts. It demonstrates that nature's richness is not always found in the deep, dark forest, but often in the clearings, the edges, and the open spaces in between. Here, a simple man-made bridleway has become an accidental sanctuary, a vibrant corridor of life running through a commercial plantation.

It leaves you with a powerful thought. A path, a hedgerow, or an "untidy" patch of scrub, when stewarded with care, can be the very thing that allows wildlife to endure and recover, offering a small but profound lesson in hope and resilience.