Day 6

The route out of camp immediately climbed out of the valley on relentless dirt hairpins on our way to the stupas at Demul Khas. This was our first real introduction to the off-road terrain that defines this part of the Himalayas. The bikes on the high plateau looked small against the scale of it.

From the top, we continued along the dirt road for a few dozen kilometers until we reached Komic village. It sits at around 14,800 feet, claiming the title of highest motorable village in the world. Red-walled monasteries, prayer flags in cold thin air, snow-covered peaks on every horizon. Lunch was at the World's Highest Restaurant at 15,049 feet, every surface covered in stickers from riders and travellers who'd passed through.

Just down the road, Hikkim: the world's highest post office, a peeling red India Post kiosk at 14,400 feet, solar panel beside it. I sent a postcard. Somewhere, in a month or so, someone back in the US is going to be confused.

Kaza was a welcome end to the day, a real town with a golden Buddha watching over the valley and an "I Love Spiti" sign near a row of white stupas. Walked around a bit to find a few beers then enjoyed the comforts of the hotel, including some nice tandoori chicken for dinner. 100km of tough riding done for the day.

Click here for Day 7