Day 10

400 km over two days, four major mountain passes. This is what the Manali-Leh highway is famous for.

First was Nakee La in a swirl of snow and cloud at 15,547 feet after the infamous Gata Loops with 21 sharp hairpin turns. Then was Lachung La at 16,616 feet, marked by a BRO sign: "For your better tomorrow, we gave our today." Finally Taglang La at 17,480 feet, where the air is thin enough that walking to the sign for a photo takes real effort.

Between the passes: fresh snow on the valley floors, wide open plateaus, the road eventually dropping toward the greener edges of Ladakh as the Indus Valley opened up ahead. Had lunch in Rumtse then headed down toward Leh, with the mountains pulling back and the road smoothing out.

Pulling into Leh after nine days felt like surfacing. A real city, a proper hotel, hot water. Near the borders of China and Pakistan, at the edge of India, and for the first time in days, nowhere urgent to be.

Rest day tomorrow. Then 1 more riding day, and the world's highest pass.

Click here for Day 11