Moon

No need to present the natural satellite of the Earth. This star is closest to us and therefore the easiest to observe and photograph. We just need to know when to observe it, know its position in the sky and its phase.

Using the position screen

1. By default the selected date is the current date, but it's possible to choose another one for example to plan a photo shoot.

2. Activate or deactivate the compass mode which will allow you to orient yourself more easily

The information given:

3. The phase corresponding to the date (the visual, the name of the phase, the percentage of lighting of the phase and the age of the phase compared to the last new moon)

4. The position of the moon in the sky over 24h and its current altitude and azimuth

5. The sunrise / sunset time of the chosen date as well as its position and percentage of lighting at these times

6. The sunrise / sunset time of the chosen date and its position and percentage of lighting at these times

7. The dates of the next new and full moon

The Moon and the photo

In photography, the Moon can be used as a model or as a light source.

Using the Moon as a model

What lens?

In terms of optics, the ideal is to have a long focal length: 100 mm, 200 mm, 300 mm, even 600 mm or more if you have the finances!

The longer your focal length, the closer you can see the moon and make a tight portrait.

A photo tripod

The problem of long focal lengths is that the slightest movement is amplified (a movement of the wind, or your hand at the time of the trigger for example), which will cause a blur of shake.

To avoid this problem, you will need a tripod. In this way, your device will be stable.

A remote control or a self-timer

If you have a remote trigger remote control, then go out, this is the right time.

If you do not have one, simply set your camera to the self-timer. For example, at 5 or 10 seconds. In this way, your device will have a few seconds to stabilise between the moment you press the button (causing a small earthquake in the case) and triggering the shot.


The technique of shooting

Switch your focus to manual focus (turn off autofocus) and put your camera in:

  • manual mode,
  • RAW recording,
  • self-timer (2s, 5s or 10s),
  • auto white balance

Focusing issues

You may have some trouble tuning.

It is not always obvious to find the infinite in manual and the autofocus is struggling on very bright subjects on a black background, like the moon.

In this case, it can be done by using a more closed diaphragm and increasing the depth of field.

Use

1. Indicate the clarity of the sky (clear sky, light cloudy veil or cloudy veil)

2. Set the focal length you want.

3. Set the aperture you want.

4. Set the ISO you want.

In the bottom area

5. You get:

  • The shutter speed corresponding to the phase of the Moon of the moment
  • The max. to avoid having to compensate for the rotation of the Earth
  • Preview of the result

6. You can transfer this data to the equivalent exposure calculation tool

Photographing a well-detailed moon

This put in f / 8, because it is usually good value to have good optical rendering. On some zoom, you will be obliged to switch to f / 11.

300 mm - f/8 - ISO 100 - 1/125 s - CANON EOS 700D © Stéphane DOUCET

Photographing a red or bright moon

Digital joys, just look at the result immediately to correct and get the desired picture.

If you wish to have a brighter moon, it is enough either:

  • Open the diaphragm one notch (change from f / 8 to f / 5.6)
  • Increase the laying time of value (to be avoided freehand)
  • Increase the ISO sensitivity (doubling from 100 to 200 ISO)
  • If your Moon is not yet bright enough, play simultaneously on the aperture (aperture) and the exposure time (Shutter).

Photograph the phases of a lunar eclipse

The lunar eclipse comes from the projection of the shadow of the Earth on the Moon. The moon is then indirectly lit, which gives it an unusual orange-red hue. This color that the Moon takes during a total eclipse can vary from very light yellow to very dark red.

Photographing a lunar eclipse is much more accessible than photographing a solar eclipse because there is no need for a particular filter. As, it is impossible to predict the brightness of the Moon during a lunar eclipse, so it is impossible to give exact settings. There are still basic settings that follow the Danjon scale. It is divided into 5 values ​​from L4 to L0 which correspond to the brightness of the total eclipse. L4 being a luminous eclipse and L0 an eclipse very little light.

L4 Eclipse copper or orange color very bright with a bluish and very bright outer zone.

L3 Red brick eclipse.

L2 Eclipse dark red or rust color. Very dark central shadow with the outer area of ​​the shadow lighter.

L1 Eclipse dark and brownish or gray in color. The details are difficult to distinguish.

L0 Very dark eclipse. Moon almost invisible especially in the middle of the totality.

The tool is there to give you the different speeds of the main phases depending on the opening and the ISO.

Use

1. Set the aperture, ISO you want by turning the wheel or by clicking to enter the value

2. Choose the shutter speed without atmospheric attenuation or with

5. Adjust the brightness level (exposure value at ISO 100) of each phase

In the bottom area

3. You get:

  • The shutter speed corresponding to each phase of the lunar eclipse

4. You can transfer this data to the equivalent exposure calculation tool

The main phases of the end of the lunar eclipse of 27/07/2018 © Stéphane DOUCET

Using the Moon as a Light Source

This method achieves results close to what is obtained in daylight with a neutral density filter.

What lens?

In terms of optics, the ideal is to have a luminous lens.

A photo tripod

The problem of long pauses is that the slightest movement will cause a blur of shake.

To avoid this problem, you will need a tripod. In this way, your device will be stable.

A remote control or a self-timer

If you have a remote trigger remote control, then go out, this is the right time.

If you do not have one, simply set your camera to the self-timer. For example, at 5 or 10 seconds. In this way, your device will have a few seconds to stabilise between the moment you press the button (causing a small earthquake in the case) and triggering the shot.

Use

1. Indicate the clarity of the sky (clear sky, light cloudy veil or cloudy veil)

2. Set the aperture you want.

3. Set the ISO you want.

In the bottom area

4. You get:

The shutter speed corresponding to the lighting of the phase of the Moon of the moment

5. You can transfer this data to the equivalent exposure calculation tool

14 mm - f4.0 - ISO 400 - 246 s