It all starts with a plan. If you are so inclined -- just do some Internet searching on what you would like to accomplish -- include Facebook as there are groups there modeling many types of aircraft and helicopter instrument panels as well as entire cockpits. Build out a plan. In my case, I decided to make something that resembles the Piper Cherokee (PA-28 140) I learned to fly back in the '70s. To the left are about a dozen 8.5 x 11 inkjet pages joined together to represent a 1:1 model of the instrument panel. In my case, about 90% scale.
I then picked up a 27" monitor and bought an Air Manager license from Sim Innovations. This product allows you to use prebuilt or custom instrument panels with various flight simulator software packages -- I'm using X-Plane. So I cut some holes out of the plan and started to line things up -- trying to mimic the actual panel as close as possible. Due to the limitations of the monitor, some things (like my switch panel for lights and magnetos and the starter switch, etc. have to be moved to another location due to the depth of those components (IOW the monitor is in the way). If I could turn back the clock I would redesign to get multiple monitors behind the front front panel splitting the nav/com stack, primary instruments and supplemental gauges to get the yoke up closer to the intended position. Plus a touchpad for Nav/Com would work slick.
Next I built out the three panel structure using some scrap wood, MDF and Masonite I had laying around the wood shop. The plywood (bottom panel pictured to the left) will be cut to hold the monitor. The 1/2 inch (13mm) particle board (middle panel) will be used in the back as a support piece and access to electronics and such once the build is complete. The top 1/4" (6.3mm) Masonite panel with the cutouts will be placed directly over the plywood bit with the monitor creating the look and feel of the real instrument panel.
This is the lower plywood panel mentioned above cut out for the 27" monitor. I choose 27" as it covered all the steam gauges as well as the Nav/Com stack. If I had to do it over, I'd like to figure out a way to use a separate touch screen for the Nav/Com radios which would allow for a bit more realism. I put a small block of wood in each corner and a could of vertical pieces with some foam tape to keep the monitor snug as a bug in a rug. All the screws were counter sunk so they won't interfere with the Masonite top panel.
Cutting out the holes in the front Masonite panel is no big deal -- just transfer from the completed plan to the board. I taped the front and back to reduce tear-out when using the hole saw, drill and jigsaw. I'm using a file here to help square up the rectangle cuts (PA-28 fuel gauges, nav/com, and I added a provision for autopilot, even though I never flew with one). I figured for longer sim flights it would come in handy. Note that you don't have to get this too perfect, as they will be cleaned up with some 3D printed rectangular bezels not unlike those used for the round (steam) gauges.
Here is the main structure assembly -- sans Masonite panel. The square hole to the right allows for a real Piper engine vacuum gauge -- I needed something from the real thing! You can also see round holes in the particle board panel that is the back of the unit. This is to allow for cooling for the monitor and electronics.
To the left are front and back pictures of the 3D printed bezels with the rotary encoders. You can see how they really make the panel look sharp and realistic.
Here I am wiring up the controls that will go to the Arduino microcontroller. You can see that I used a router to carve out some of the back of the front panel so the wires will be recessed and the panel will fit directly on top of the monitor.
Here I have temporarily installed all the panels and some of the wiring to the Arduino. You can see the bezels are fit into all the cutouts. The front panel was first sealed with shellac and then painted with matte hammered black/grey rattle can paint. It gave it a slight textured look. If you look closely you can see the Arduino mounted on the back panel. It is mounted on an access panel you can open from the back to make any changes or repairs. There will be a powered USB hub added in the future -- likely next to the microcontroller. I'm using an inexpensive power strip to keep the exterior cords coming from the unit to a minimum (1). I 3D printed the knobs on the gauges and painted them white and/or orange per the real thing. I believe I used various length 3mm black screws for most things I found on Amazon, as my small town of 5,000 doesn't have these unique parts available locally.
To the right is a closer look at the Arduino access panel and the hookup wiring. To the far right I'm working on my first revision that will modify the panel to have a real circuit breaker and switch panel assembly. Current Sim in this overview uses the Saitek switch assembly which can be surface mounted to the panel. These switch panels require additional rectangular cutouts to the top and middle wood panels to allow for the depth of the switch and provisions for the wiring can be made to the microcontroller. The ignition switch (not pictured here) will be located near the bottom left-center of the panel right below (and I mean RIGHT below the monitor) -- getting it as close as I can to the real position. I'm replacing the current Arduino Nano (with something like 14 ports) with the Arduino Mega with around 40 as seen in the far right picture. Both microcontrollers (Nano on the left picture and Mega on the right) were modified to include the green screw terminal boards -- making connections a hundred times easier and quicker.
Currently the Sim uses a Saitek yoke. But I want to use the real thing. I received the '60s Piper yoke as a gift from my son so I'm adapting it for use in the Sim using the assembly pictured on the left. This is a 3D printed system using two potentiometers as discussed here. The location will be lower than the real thing as, again, the monitor for the gauges is in the way. But it will be close enough and should be really cool. If you plan to use this yoke setup, and it works well, you will need to add a low pass filter to both potentiometers or flying will be a mess. Also, you will need to print a support brace that keeps the pitch axis from moving under tension. Here is the STL (3D printer file) I designed. Mount it right up against the pitch POT.
Here my son is testing our Sim panel ver 1. There is a computer to the left, out of shot, that is running Microsoft FS2020. The computer on the right is running the Air Manager application. In addition to the other physical changes for version 2 (switch panel, breaker panel, ignition switch, stall warning light, annunciator lights, and the real Piper yoke) I will be moving the Air Manager duties over to a Raspberry PI microcomputer. It is really just a small computer with more capabilities (and different purpose) than the Arduino. The Pi will run the gauges on the sim panel only -- nothing as far as scenery or any other monitor. For the placards (textual notes about the aircraft such as stall speed, fuel info, landing procedures, etc.) I created some text I found online or made myself in Photoshop and printed on white adhesive inkjet paper. It works really well. It takes a few tries to get the fonts and sizing the way you want it. But worth it in the end as it adds a bit of realism.
Almost forgot. As you can see in the picture above, the instrument panel has a padded dash top like the real thing. I used a piece of 1/2" (13mm) particle board with relief cuts in the bottom. I then liberally sprayed the board with water and let it soak in for a few minutes. I then placed it over the top of the panel and clamped it down to dry using nylon band clamps. Then turned the panel upside down and put wood glue in the now dry slots. I left that overnight to dry and removed the nicely shaped wood top so I could add the foam padding and vinyl covering the next day.
Second version of the flight sim panel. The Mac runs X-Plane, the iPad on the left runs SkyVector for flight planning/GPS/charts.
Here is the completed Simulator V2.0
On the left you can see the larger (taller) Piper-like instrument panel mounted on a large TV rolling cart. I needed the extra height to pass the real Piper yoke through. The 30" TV (720 DPI - low res, I know) mounted above. My Mac is on a stand attached to the theatre chair which runs X-Plane Flight Simulator. And the rudder pedals are attached to the bottom of the cart. The Hobbs, annunciator lights and stall light all work off a 28V system. The micro computers are all 5V.
On the right and sitting on the yoke control is the AirManager PC which runs the gauges and switches for the instrument panel (in the future it will be a Raspberry Pi). I have three planes modeled right now -- Cessna 172, Piper PA-28 161 (Warrior), and A Beechcraft Bonanza. I use the same "holes" in the front of the instrument panel for each plane, but switch selected gauges based on plane type (EGT vs. Manifold pressure, DG vs. HSI, things like that. Setup supports retracts, constant speed prop, and auto pilot.
AirManager PC, 28V power blocks, ...