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Assembling the SmartRap Mini is pretty simple.
Start with a base, wood works really well. I use a piece of US 1x8 cut to 14 inches in length.
PDF form here: Assembly
Bottom parts
4 #4x5/8" sheet metal screws
Mount Bottom piece to base material.
Place the top left of the part Bottom 2.5in(60mm) from the top, and 2in(50mm) from the left (or centered as you prefer)
Secure the Bottom plate with wood screws.
TIP: make sure the 8mm rods fit into the holes of the bottom, and the holes of the PlateBase part.
Here the motors have the extruder gear and the vinyl 5mm threaded rod holder added. Also the endstop and stepper wiring is bundled. Also very hard to see is that the extruder wiring has a sleeve of vinyl to protect it from the large woodscrew we are going to add in a moment.
PlateBase parts
6 3x10mm screws
PlateBase assembled to motors
PlateY parts
2 3x10mm screws
PlateY assembled to Y stepper
Place the 3 stepper motors in place and secure the PlateBase and PlateY parts to the steppers with 3x10mm screws.
Secure the whole assembly using 2 long wood screws. Careful to not over tighten. Just snug. Now back off the anchor so that the smaller PlateY part can move.
Extruder parts
Extruder base secured with 1 3x8mm screw.
Complete the extruder motor using Extruder, and arm parts, bearing, and 2 3x16mm screw and nut and 3x8mm screw.
The 3mm nut goes into the slot on the side. Add the ptfe holder to the other side.
The base is first secured using the 3x8mm screw it must fit in the recess.
Then add the bearing holder using a 3x16mm screw to the final stepper motor hole. This should be snug but not too tight as to stop movement of the arm.
Add the bearing to the arm top post, and finally use a 3x20mm (not in pic sorry) screw to secure the arm to the nut in the slot, use this to adjust the tension once filament is loaded.
Place the 2 8mm Zaxis rods into PlateBase down to Bottom part ensuring they are parallel and vertical in the 2 other axis.
Y-axis parts
Y-axis assembled
Assemble the Y-axis by setting one end with 2 6mm rods. Add the 4 lm6uu bearings. Close it off with the other end. Make sure the rods are seated.
Split 2 bearings to each side and set the rods in the Y-axis base plates. Slide the bearings into the holders to secure the Y-axis.
Use 3x8mm screws as set screws in the side holes if the bearings are too loose. The Y-axis should now be aligning the small Y-axis plate, snug the anchor screw ensuring that the Y-axis can freely move. If the bearings are gritty or unbalanced, try removing a bearing and flipping it end for end. I have found that these types of bearings have an alignment of sorts. The Y-axis should move freely even if you only move it 1mm or 100mm.
RAMPS base parts
2 #4x5/8" sheet metal screws
RAMPS base installed
Add the RAMPS board holder (if desired) using 2 sheet metal screws. Place the top edge of the holder about 1in (25.5mm) away from the edge of the small Y-axis plate.
X-axis parts
Stepper and X-endstop assembled
Secure a stepper motor to the PlateX part using 4 3x10mm screws.
Mount the Xaxis end stop using 2 3x10mm screws (note these may not work, will change to 3x12mm soon) to the bottom of PlateX.
ALTERNATE: if using a simple microswitch, mount to the top of plate using 2 2x12mm screws.
lm6uu bearings in place.
lm8uu bearings in place. Use 2 3x12mm screws and 2 nuts to secure the clamps.
PlateX in place on 8mm rods. Adjust the tension on the clamps screws so as not to bind the bearings.
Z axis parts
Place the 5mm nut in the antiwobble part.
Thread the part onto the rod.
Add 5mm threaded rod using vinyl coupler.
Place Xaxis carriage to 8mm rods and over the 5mm threaded rod, adjust bearings for smooth function.
X-axis rods and end parts.
3x20mm screw
Fishing line anchor assembled.
Completed X-axis
Hotend mount parts.
2 3x16mm screws
Hotend mount assembled.
3x20mm screw and nut to mount hotend.
Hotend mounted to X-axis.
Plate support parts
Plate support assembled
Plate support installed
Assemble the adjust base support by threading the 5x30mm screw from the bottom.
About 1 inch(25mm) away from the RAMPS base mount the adjustable plate support base using 2 wood screws. Add the cap and a bearing to this.
LCD mount parts
LCD mount assembled
LCD mount installed
Below that add the 2 supports for the 2004 lcd panel using 2 wood screws and 4 3x8mm screws.
Z-endstop parts
4 3x8mm screws
Z-endstop assembled
Z-endstop mounted
The Z-endstop switch should require only about 1 to 1.5mm of travel of the arm to trip.
Y-endstop parts
2 3x8mm screws
1 3x16mm screw
Y-endstop assembled
Y-endstop mounted. 3x16mm screw only just started.
Trim and mount the ptfe bowden tubing.
Route and run the Z-axis endstop and all hotend wires to one side. This is bundle A.
Route the X-axis motor and endstop wires to one side. This is bundle B.
Gather all wiring from the base plate steppers and Y-endstop. This is bundle C.
Connect all wiring to RAMPS.
Connect LCD cables to RAMPS.
ENSURE that the 3 wire endstop plugs are correctly placed +, -, and signal.
DOUBLE CHECK THIS ! Red to + side !
Power up.
Build and load the Marlin firmware.
Adjust stepper voltages on the step sticks.
Install Pronterface and connect using a USB cable.
Check the endstops using the command M119. I frequently mix up the X and Z axis switch cables. Hold the switch down and issue M119, the switch should indicate closed.
Using each axis direction tools, move each axis a few millimeters in each direction. This should indicate that the steppers are in the correct direction. +Y moves to the left, +X moves farther from the Z uprights. +Z moves up.
Next try homing each axis.
Keep and eye on the fishing line and don't let it roll off the end of the stepper shaft. Also watch for overlap, the turns should not overlap if possible, this can happen near the homing end of the run. For plate sizes larger than about 180mm you will need a line drum (I have not designed one), or GT2 belt system.
In a newly assembled build the Zaxis can be difficult to trip properly. The arm and nozzle will tend to bind. Lubricate the leadscrew and the pivot with some machine oil. Also lubricate the 8mm bearings. If the Xplate is not smooth on the 8mm rods, try rotating and/or flipping the 8mm bearings until it rides smoothly. Repeatability in z homing will be crucial to getting good consistent prints.
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