Nishica Farm
Nursery
Nursery
Once you bring home a 4" tomato start, your goal is to establish a massive root system and prepare for fruit.
Acclimation: Give them 2–3 days of dappled (not direct) sunlight to prevent leaf scorch.
Hydration: Nursery pots dry out fast. Check daily; if the soil feels like a wrung-out sponge, water it.
Soil Temp: Only transplant once soil is consistently 60°F or higher.
The Technique: Remove the bottom few sets of leaves, leaving only the top cluster. Dig a hole deep enough to bury 2/3 of the stem.
Why: Tomatoes grow "adventitious roots" all along the buried stem, creating a much stronger plant.
Spacing: Space plants 24–36 inches apart to ensure airflow and prevent blight.
Staking: Install cages or stakes immediately after planting. Doing it later damages the expanding root system.
Fertilizer: Use a balanced organic fertilizer (like 5-5-5). Avoid high-nitrogen blends at this stage, or you'll get a giant green bush with no tomatoes.
Watering: Water deeply at the base of the plant. Avoid wetting the leaves to prevent fungal diseases. Aim for 1–2 inches of water per week.
Mulching: Add 2–3 inches of straw or wood chips around the base to maintain moisture and keep soil temperatures stable.
Pruning: For indeterminate varieties, pinch off the "suckers" (the small shoots growing in the "V" between the main stem and a branch) to focus energy on fruit production.
High-quality s classic heirloom paste tomato, perfect for sauces. This originates from Parma, Italy, where it was developed for the 1950's canning industry. Traditional San Marzano shape and appearance as well as a vibrant red color.
Indeterminate.
Calcium is critical. Paste tomatoes are highly prone to Blossom End Rot. Add a handful of bone meal or crushed eggshells to the planting hole.
First early, great flavor.
Better flavor and are more disease resistant than Early Girl.
Indeterminate.
Focus on early pruning. This is an "early" variety; keep suckers pruned to a single or double leader to ensure the first clusters ripen quickly.
Flavorful heirloom flavor. Large fruits with deep pink skin and smooth red flesh. The medium-tall, potato-leaf plant is best staked or caged.
Indeterminate.
Be patient. Heirlooms take longer to produce. They are also more sensitive to afternoon heat; mulch heavily to keep roots cool.
Cherry
Indeterminate
These are massive "monsters." They need 8-foot tall cages or heavy-duty trellising. Do not use standard 3-foot nursery cages.
1. Post-Purchase Care (Days 1–3)
Acclimation: Give these 3 days of dappled sun. Opo squash leaves are broad and can sunburn easily if moved from a nursery to full Bay Area sun too quickly.
Hydration: These are water-heavy plants. Do not let the nursery pot dry out completely.
2. Transplanting (The "Hill" Method)
Soil Temp: Strictly 65°F+. Opo squash is a tropical plant; if the soil is cold, it will rot or refuse to grow.
The Technique: Create a small mound (hill) of soil. Bury the plant at the same depth as the pot. Opo squash does not like its stem buried deep like tomatoes.
Spacing: Space plants 4–5 feet apart.
3. Support & Initial Feeding
Staking: Requires a heavy-duty trellis or fence. The vines can grow 15+ feet and the gourds are heavy.
Fertilizer: High-phosphorus organic fertilizer at planting to encourage root and flower development.
4. Maintenance (Weeks 2–8)
Watering: Consistent, deep watering at the base.
Pollination: These bloom at night. If you don't see fruit setting, you may need to hand-pollinate the female flowers (the ones with a tiny bulb at the base) with male flowers in the evening.
Pruning: Pinch the main growing tip once it reaches 10 feet to encourage lateral "fruiting" branches.
5. Harvesting
Timeline: 60–70 days from transplant.
Ripeness Check: Harvest when the gourd is 10–12 inches long and the skin is light green and tender.
Test: If you can’t easily pierce the skin with a fingernail, it is overripe and will be "woody."
1. Post-Purchase Care (Days 1–3)
Acclimation: 2 days of transition. Okra loves heat and handles full sun better than most.
Hydration: Keep the root ball moist.
2. Transplanting
Soil Temp: 70°F+. Okra is the most heat-demanding plant on your list. Wait until the "Indian Summer" feel starts or at least late May in Zone B.
The Technique: Plant at pot level. Be extremely gentle; okra roots are brittle and hate being disturbed.
Spacing: Space 12–18 inches apart.
3. Support & Initial Feeding
Staking: Generally self-supporting, but in windy areas, a short stake helps.
Fertilizer: Balanced 5-5-5 at planting.
4. Maintenance (Weeks 2–8)
Watering: Drought tolerant once established, but for high yield, water deeply once a week.
Mulching: Mandatory to keep the soil hot.
5. Harvesting
Timeline: 50–60 days from transplant.
Ripeness Check: Harvest pods when they are 2–3 inches long.
Daily Check: Okra grows incredibly fast. A pod can go from perfect to "woody/inedible" in 24 hours. Use shears to cut them off; do not pull.
1. Post-Purchase Care (Days 1–3)
Acclimation: 3 days. Eggplants are very sensitive to transplant shock.
Hydration: Keep moist.
2. Transplanting
Soil Temp: 70°F. Like okra, it loves the heat.
The Technique: Plant at pot level.
Spacing: 18–24 inches apart.
3. Support & Initial Feeding
Staking: Use a small cage. A single plant can produce 20+ heavy fruits that will drag the branches onto the dirt.
Fertilizer: Balanced organic fertilizer.
4. Maintenance (Weeks 2–8)
Watering: Deep and consistent.
Pest Check: Watch for Flea Beetles (tiny holes in leaves). Use neem oil or row covers.
5. Harvesting
Timeline: 55–60 days from transplant.
Ripeness Check: Harvest when the skin is glossy and dark purple. If the skin turns dull, it is overripe and the seeds will be bitter.
1. Post-Purchase Care (Days 1–3)
Acclimation: 2 days of transition.
Hydration: Moderate. Don't let the pot stay soggy.
2. Transplanting
Soil Temp: 65°F+.
The Technique: Plant at pot level.
Spacing: 12–18 inches apart.
3. Support & Initial Feeding
Staking: Usually unnecessary for Shishitos/Padrons, but helpful for tall Serrano plants.
Fertilizer: Balanced organic feed.
4. Maintenance (Weeks 2–8)
Watering: Let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings. Stressing peppers slightly can increase their heat (except for Shishitos).
Pruning: Pinch the top "growing tip" when the plant is 8 inches tall to create a bushier plant with more fruit.
Padron
Famous Spanish pepper named after the town where they originated. About 1 out of 20 fruits will be hot, and the rest mild. All the fruits become hot if allowed to grow 2–3" long. Typically sautéed in olive oil with a little sea salt and eaten as tapas (appetizers) in Spain.
Harvest when 1–1.5" long. "One in ten is hot"—if they get too big, they all get very spicy.
Shishito
Avg. 3–3 1/2" fruits thin-walled and no heat. Popular in Japan. Very good roasted, in stir-fries, or sautéed. The plants are large and very productive. From USDA Certified Organic seeds.
Harvest when 2–3" long and wrinkled. Pick frequently to keep the plant producing.
Altiplano Serrano
Large-fruited serrano. Altiplano peppers are faster to harvest than types with smaller fruits. Traditional serrano flavor and pungency. Medium-large plants.
Harvest when 2–3" long and firm. Can be eaten green or left to turn red (hotter).
Pantera Jalapeno
Large, vigorous, continuous-set type plants have a very high yield.
Fruits avg. 4 1/2" long and are smooth, glossy, and slow to check. Similar to Jedi but a few days earlier to mature with slightly bigger fruits.
Look for "corking" (small tan stretch marks on the skin). This means they are ready.
1. Post-Purchase Care (Days 1–3)
Acclimation: 2 days. Basil is sensitive to wind.
Hydration: Basil wilts immediately if dry. Keep it hydrated.
2. Transplanting
Soil Temp: 65°F. Cold soil (below 50°F air temp) will turn the leaves black.
The Technique: Plant at pot level.
Spacing: 12 inches apart.
3. Support & Initial Feeding
Staking: Not required.
Fertilizer: High-nitrogen (like fish emulsion) is actually good here to promote leaf growth.
4. Maintenance (Weeks 2–8)
Watering: Water in the morning. Avoid wetting leaves in the evening to prevent downy mildew.
Pruning: Critical. Pinch off the center stem above the second set of leaves to force branching.
5. Harvesting
Timeline: Anytime leaves are present.
Method: Never strip all the leaves. Always "top" the plant by cutting just above a leaf node to ensure it grows back bushier. Pinch off any flower buds immediately to keep the flavor sweet.
1. Post-Purchase Care (Days 1–3)
Acclimation: 3 days of dappled light. Pepper leaves can be "tender" when coming from a greenhouse.
Hydration: Ensure the 4" pot stays moist.
2. Transplanting
Soil Temp: Steady 65°F. Cold soil causes peppers to turn yellow and stop growing.
The Technique: Plant at pot level.
Spacing: Space 18 inches apart.
3. Support & Initial Feeding
Staking: Use small "pepper cages" or bamboo stakes. The heavy bells will pull the plant over.
Fertilizer: High-potassium organic food. Avoid high nitrogen or you will get leaves but no peppers.
4. Maintenance (Weeks 2–8)
Watering: Even moisture. Drying out then soaking causes "Blossom End Rot" (black spots on the bottom of the bells).
Mulching: 2 inches of straw to keep moisture in.
Sweet Sunrise Bell Peppers
Blocky, dark green bell ripens to yellow/orange.
Medium-large 3- and 4-lobed fruits are blocky to slightly elongated. The flavor is both fruity and sweet. Yields well and fruits ripen early
Can be eaten green, but wait for full bright yellow/orange for maximum sweetness.
Yankee Bell Peppers
Better quality and uniformity than most open pollinated bell. Medium large plant
Thick-walled. Harvest when blocky and deep green, or wait for it to turn red for a sweeter flavor.
1. Post-Purchase Care (Days 1–3)
Acclimation: 1–2 days. These are generally tough.
Hydration: Keep the starts moist.
2. Transplanting
Soil Temp: 60°F.
The Technique: Plant at pot level.
Spacing: Sunflowers (12"), Marigolds (8"), Zinnias (10").
3. Support & Initial Feeding
Staking: Only for the Sunrich Sunflowers if you are in a windy part of the Bay Area.
Fertilizer: Standard balanced feed at planting.
4. Maintenance (Weeks 2–8)
Watering: Water at the base. Overhead watering on Zinnias causes powdery mildew.
Deadheading: For Marigolds and Zinnias, remove faded flowers to keep the plant blooming all summer.
5. Harvesting
Sunflowers: Cut when the petals start to unfurl but before the center is fully open for the longest vase life.
Marigolds/Zinnias: Cut once fully open.
1. Post-Purchase Care (Days 1–3)
Acclimation: 1 day. Very hardy.
Hydration: Drought tolerant; don't overwater in the pot.
2. Transplanting
Soil Temp: 55°F+.
The Technique: Plant at pot level in your sunniest, driest spot.
Spacing: 12 inches apart (it will spread as a groundcover).
3. Support & Initial Feeding
Staking: None.
Fertilizer: None needed; it prefers "lean" soil.
4. Maintenance (Weeks 2–8)
Watering: Minimal. Let it dry out between waterings.
Pruning: Cut it back by half in mid-summer to prevent it from getting "woody."
5. Harvesting
Timeline: Anytime once the plant is 6 inches tall.
Flavor: The flavor is strongest just before the plant tiny white flowers bloom.