When it comes to jewelry, the world has gone crazy for crystal jewelry, from Balenciaga to Lady Gaga. CAROL WOOLTON, a jewelry expert, delves into the powerful allure of these ancient rocks – as well as the fashionable fascination that has crystal jewelry taking over the runways.
From the apocalyptic backdrop of Balenciaga's flooded floors to Thom Browne's Noah's Ark-themed show, where the models came out two by two, the need for protection loomed large on the fall 2020 runways. Anyone would think the designers had looked into a crystal ball to see what was coming up. In any case, the trends predicted a difficult period, with dramatic black serving as a recurring theme. Paco Rabanne featured ‘Saintly' Joan of Arc silhouettes, as well as sacred-looking styles with chains and crystal necklaces fused into dresses. Large pendants and totemic forms swinging on leather above chests like protective breastplates, and metallic frames housing crystals chosen for their symbolic meanings, emphasized the clear message of salvation and safeguarding. Jewels are now more than just accessories, as they are part of a new chic in crystals and stones with spiritual properties.
I refer to this as the "new stone age" because colorful crystals and stones are being stylishly incorporated into wardrobes, homes, beauty regimes, and other areas. The fashion world was the first to embrace the look: Victoria Beckham was open about using them to calm nerves backstage before a show, and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen gave them out after the show at The Row. And now the look is popular. Collectors are looking for large natural sculptures to display on plinths or old-style mahogany kunstkammers of mantlepiece minerals. Others, such as novelist Santa Montefiore, are 'prescribed' amethysts for the home by crystal 'cleaners' – to improve energy flow – in a sophisticated marriage of feng shui and a house doctor. Lady Gaga is a fan of Marina Abramovic's work, which explores the influence of crystal on the mind and body, which may have influenced her rumored plans for a rock-crystal-studded entrance hallway in her Los Angeles home.
On a recent Vogue shoot, makeup artist Val Garland took a small linen bag from her pocket, clacking with tumbled rose quartz, agate, tourmaline, and rhodochrosite, before beginning work on model Duckie Thot's face. “As a makeup artist, when you walk into a room for the first time and meet a celebrity, you have to go right up to them and make them feel safe and comfortable in your hands.” She went on to say, "It's a big ask." For a first meeting, it can feel invasive and too intimate, so these stones can help.” Rose quartz and jade rollers, like early rose-quartz face masks discovered in Egyptian tombs, stimulate fibroblasts to improve sluggish skin.
Jewels are now more than just accessories, as they are part of a new chic in crystals and stones with spiritual properties.
The belief that stones are silent protectors and benefit our lives has echoed down the centuries, which is not surprising given that they are the result of natural upheavals, vast geological shifts, volcanic activity, and mountain erosion, all of which lends these crystal survivors an aura of magic. “Turquoise is beautiful, and it just comes up out of the earth,” artist Damien Hirst says, explaining the ancients' strong belief in stones. “Of course, if you were trying to make sense of it, you'd think it was divine.” We don't use crystals like our forefathers did to cure snakebites or secure our place in the afterlife, but they do provide us with a reassuring connection to something bigger than ourselves. They also convey a sense of the earth's endurance, which many of us – from adults to Generation Z – seek in an era of fast-paced technology and email overload, which can make life in the twenty-first century feel exhausting. “Mobile phones are the reason we're so busy,” makeup and skincare expert Charlotte Tilbury, who uses amethyst, rose quartz, and crystal bowls, emphasizes. “They're the reason we can't turn off. Time has sped up to the point where we need an antidote to slow it down; the world has never needed more healing or being in touch with nature than it does now.”
I had no idea, like the designers of the winter shows, that such turbulent times were on the horizon when I was writing this book. Anxiety-inducing current events, such as climate change, combined with political and economic insecurity, seemed to be sufficient reasons to seek sources of strength, comfort, and meaning in crystals as purposeful shields for daily life. So I've learned to turn off my phone, to take a break, and to gaze at the crystals as a mindful and quieting exercise. Fortunately, in keeping with the current mood, designers have created a plethora of enticing crystal jewels to make it simple. Enough to provide a healthy daily dose of minerals to a jewelry editor.
Rock crystal, long believed to have defensive and curing properties, could be the stone to wear right now.
I don't want to be the Gus Portokalos of the jewelry world, but the term "crystal" is derived from the Greek word "crystalos," which means "cold." And the ancient Greeks thought rock crystal, also known as clear quartz, was water that had been frozen for eternity. Isn't there something soothing about the resilience that implies?
The Greeks were not the first to use the stone in jewelry—though an impressive collection of rock crystal and gold bangles on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art shows they did—and they were not the only ones to assign immense strength and value to the materials.
The Greeks thought the rock crystal came directly from Mount Olympus—eternal water that had poured down the peak. However, rock crystal has been held to have calming and healing abilities, as well as the ability to enlighten, stabilize, and extend one's energy, since ancient times and through ancient civilizations,” explains Fred Leighton Creative Director Rebecca Selva.
Rock crystal was carved into beads, chains, and amulets by the Egyptians. Rock crystal was used in Ancient India for its healing abilities to cleanse, change, and stabilize force.
Archaeological finds from the Sumerian and Mesopotamian cultures show evidence of the use of rock crystal in jewelry. The allure of transparent quartz has persisted for centuries (see Victorian intaglios in particular), but its use in the Art Deco era (a artistic flowering of bold, minimalist architecture free of flourishes between the wars) is perhaps the most well-known and celebrated.
Rock stone, along with black onyx, silver, and diamonds, became a hallmark palette for jewelers such as Cartier, Van Cleef, and Boivin and Belperron. Gloria Swanson's iconic Cartier Deco cuffs are an excellent example, as is the Belperron for Boivin rock crystal and hematite bracelet that sold at Christies a few months ago. (If you track me on Instagram, you'll recognize it.) For months, it was the focus of my fascination (along with another Cartier rock crystal cuff that sold in the same sale).
The material's hold on the imaginations of jewelers remains powerful. “I'm fascinated with rock quartz,” Hanut Singh says. “They are scattered around my home as totems and objets, and it is a delight to incorporate them into my jewelry designs as well. I'm overjoyed to be working with them.”
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Is the attraction to this stone purely aesthetic or spiritual? “We are both aware of how spiritually they have been used for centuries in healing "Singh explains. "The clear rock quartz, which makes us attune to our higher self, assists intuition and concentration, and soothes and heals, has also been used to create Idols in our Hindu culture. Our most powerful deities, of which there are many, are made of crystal and adorned with jewels. Our prayer beads, in which we 'jap,' or pray and meditate, are also made of quartz. The many and various applications are talismanic. The pleasure of seeing them as bijoux, on the other hand, is electric. The glitz and glam of it all. All is so clear and dramatic! In the 1920s and 1930s, big houses used it as objet d'art and jewels. Cartier was a natural at it. Belperron worked her magic with crystals until the late 1950s. Fluting, frosting, swirling, stacking...all kinds of forms, sizes, and patterns were created with this magical quartz.”
Singh is not alone in his fascination with quartz, as shown by his work. Monica Rich Kosann also makes extensive use of the stone, designing an entire cobblestone-patterned bracelet around it. The material's clarity provides designers with limitless options, but as Kosann points out, "rock crystal often wards off negativity."
As Gus Portokalos would say, "there you go."
You call it: amethyst, rose quartz, agate... Zara introduces a new range of crystal-set pins, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings for the new bohemian-style jewelry series. And they're all well priced.
This movement was first seen during the Spring/Summer 2020 Fashion Week in September: on the runways, the silhouettes were punctuated with crystal or stone jewels, mostly in their roughest shape, suggesting a health atmosphere that has been shaking up the jewelry landscape for many seasons now.
With their exotic colors and good vibes, these crystal rock jewelry pieces were soon embraced by fashionable ladies, whether or not they were lovers of lithotherapy, for their defensive virtues and bohemian and trendy style. The good news is that Zara has just released a mini line of agate, rose quartz, and amethyst rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings priced between 15 and 20 euros. All are limited edition and will be available in a matter of days. Unquestionably a sell-out!
Details to Know Follow:
https://crystalis.com/crystal-jewelry/
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