Resources

Here are a few ideas for MACRO

- Flowers

- bugs

- interesting objects

What is MACRO - definition?

In photography, MACRO applies to situations where the image size is equal to or greater than that of the subject. But it’s not uncommon to see a lens with a ‘Macro’ label that’s just a "close-up" setting. 

For a lens to be true macro, it needs to produce a sensor image size that’s at least as big as the subject. It is often bigger up to a factor of ten-to-one (X10 or 10:1). That’s about the highest magnification you can achieve without resorting to a microscope.

What do you need?

• Lens 

  • You can us a specific 'macro lens' 

  • 'Close up' / magnifying lens (these usually attach to the front of an existing lens to give extra magnification (Nisi make a 'close up' lens)

• Lights - lights can be used to 'set the scene' and highligh parts of the subject. Lighting options include 

  • Speedlite / flashes 

  • headlamp LED lights / torches / 

  • natural light 

  • use of reflectors

• Colour the light using gels / celofane or colour lights

• Remote shutter release (wired or wireless) / 2 or 10 second timer to help reduce camera shake when you press the shutter release

• Tripod - A sturdy tripod will give you a good base for static items. 

Settings

• Aperture - this can vary greatly depending on the circumstances. Generally a fairly wide aperture is suggested, but this only gives a narrow depth of field 

  •  check the various guides below for more details / suggestions based on various scenarios

• Shutter Speed  - you generally do NOT need a fast shutter speed, unless of course you are capturing an animal/insect that is likely top move

ISO - try and keep the ISO as close as possible to 100 (this may need to be higher to get the required exposure if the light is dim or the subject is likely to move and you need to select a higher shutter speed)

Techniques

• If the subject is static use a tripod to mount your camera. You can shoot handheld, but make sure tht the shutter speed is sufficiently high to protect against camera movement / shake

• Try gels/celofane on your lights or coloured lights to put different colour into the image, Again... experiment

• Experiment to see what works best for you.

Here are a couple of ways to setup (there are lots of variation I am sure you can think of)

• Use a cable release to trigger the camera. this will avoid camera shake

• using a 2 second timer delay may help to allow more time to get the splash & shutter release synchronised

• If using a flash use a shutter speed. The image will only expose when the flash fires so the trick is to fire the flash as the splash occurs. 

  • If you use a longer shutter speed (say 4 secons) the background will be lit by any available ambient light and the flash will provide the main source of light. 

  • Small directional lights can be used to highlight specific parts of the subject

    • Be careful NOT to flood the subject with too much light.

    • Experiment with flash power, distances from subject, angles, 

Focusing

• Generally focus on a point midway into the subject depth. focus sharpness will drop off either side of that point.

• With a wide angle lens,(less than 15mm Full Frame Equivalent)  usually focusing on something 10-20m away is sufficient to reach infinity focus.

Focus stacking / bracketing can be used (in conjunction with software to broaden the in focus range.) That's a whole different topic. but some of the articles below will cover. Moany newer cameras can do this 'in camera'

'MACRO" photography Resources can be found on the Clubs Google Drive here 🔐

Come back here to check for updates

Methods / Process

For lighting you will need a tripod and usually a normal zoom lens (18-55 on crop or 24-70 on FF) will suffice. 

Two approaches to taking lightning images. 

1. Use a cable release (put camera in bulb mode) and keep the shutter open until you see a flash or multiple flashes. 

The advantage of longer exposures is you may capture more strikes and also collect enough ambient light to expose the entire sce

2. Set your camera to 10-30 second exposures and just keep taking images continuously. 

With shorter exposures you obviously capture less light but get better detail in the clouds.

Focusing

• Important to set your focus on infinity and then put the camera or lens in manual focus. 

• If you use back button focus then you don't need to put anything in manual. 

• With a wide angle lens, usually focusing on something 10-20m away is sufficient to reach infinity focus and if it's dark you can use a torch or car headlights to do this.

ISO & Aperture

As for aperture and ISO settings, something like f5.6-8, ISO 100 should be a good starting point and then adjust to suit the conditions. 

Exposing for lighting will mean the rest of the scene is dark however if you shoot at your base or lowest native ISO you can easily boost the shadows in post to bring out more detail in the clouds or foreground.

Locations

In terms of locations, any spot will work, however a scene with a strong foreground interest or subject will certainly elevate the image (eg. a lake, building, silo, city skyline, old vehicle/machinery, windmill, a pelican 

CAUTION

If you are a bit wary of standing outside in a storm I would suggest using a phone app to control your camera while you sit in the comfort and safety of your vehicle

Youtube videos:

EXAMPLES:

Come back here to check for updates

Equipment & Supplies required

• Matte Cutter - The Club has 2 cutters

• Pencil (sharp)

• Pencil eraser

• Ruler (preferably stell) so the blades will not cut into it. #@&*

• a right angle square *

• a sturdy table with a suitable cover 

- to protect it from damage from the cutter etc

- needs to be high enough to be comfortable to cut without stretching / hurting your back

• A supply of Matte / Mount board (in the required colours @&

• A supply of Foam Core - to be sued as the backing board#@

There are 2 types of foam core 

• plain (non sticky backed) - you will need 'acid free' double sided tape to adhere your print to the mount / backing board

• sticky backed 

• Double sided (acid free) tape (sometimes also called Artists tape) #@

• White cotton gloves - (lint free) for handling the photo & matte (to avoid leaving skin oils/marks on the finished product) #@%

• Air blower (to help remove any dust) / Brush (a makeup brush works well) %

• hanging wire and 

• Spare cutting blades for the cutter

• A bin for the scraps

Legend of symbols

# available from officeworks, Spotlight 

@ available from Art supply shops 

& available from Picture framers (You'd probably have to order in advance)

% available from Coles / Woolworths

* available from bunnings and hardware stores

Methods / Process

refer to the videos

Youtube videos:

• Mounting a print - very details on how to use the cutter and techniques for mounting the print on backing board the the mount 

Note: the cutter use is more sophisticated than the clubs cutter, but process is similar

• How to use a Matte Cutter 

Note: this cutter is not the same as the camera Clubs cutter. We have separate cutting tools for straight and bevel edges and they are not built into the cutter

The technique for working out the window size and position and the general techniques for cutting are what is important.

• Mat cutting simple tool

• Cutting a Beveled Edge Window Mat -Logan Mat Cutter - How To

Come back here to check for updates

Here are a few ideas for Water splash 

- Kids jumping in the pool

- Hair flick

- droplet splash

- macro water splash

- bird bathing

- whales/ dolphins breeching

- car driving through a puddle

- sprinklers

- water skiers (now where could we find some of them ????)

For most of these ideas just do a 'google' search for 'Photography ' and the relevant topic eg 'Photography birds bathing' or 'Photography birds splashing'

if you go down the Water Droplet slashing ,here are a few ideas
For water droplet splash photography here are a few tips and ideas

What do you need?

• Lens - A macro lens or something like a 24-70mm lens would be good starting point

you could also try a longer focal length lens eg 70-700 and move away from the subject and zoom in 

• Dropper and catchment tank - pipettes, needles syringe, squirty bottle  can be used to form the droplet. A baking tray or similar can be used as the catchment (wider is better to try and catch any spashes/waves), Ideally the water should be about 4 cm deep. If its too deep the drop will disapate, too shallow and it will splatter

Attach the dropper to a fixture to ensure consistent position of the water drop

• Lights - speedlite / flashes (preferably off camera) / headlamp LED lights

• Colour the light using gels / celofane or colour lights

You can use one colour food dye in the dropper and a different in the catchment tank

• Colour the water using food dye, (Use complimentary colours to get the best visual effects)

• Milk or even a cap of Dettol - will make the water opaque and help to catch the light (light tends to pass through clear water)

• Remote shutter release (wired or wireless)

Settings

Aperture - Use a narrow aperture eg F10 or above to get a deeper depth of field to ensure the splash is sharp/in focus from front to back

Shutter Speed  (this will depend on the technique used)

-  With flash and you can predict the time of the drop hitting the surface 

- you'll need a shutter speed of 1/200th sec  (the shutter speed is limited to a max of 1/200 with flash so it can sync with the shutter. 

another option for flash is to use high speed sync and that will depend on the camera and flash being used (Check your manuals for more info) 

• with Flash to create a window and fire the flash as the drop hits the surface

you'll need a slow shutter of about 4 sec to open the shutter and create a window for the drop to fall and you'll need to trigger the flash as the water drop hits the surface

ISO - Start with ISO 100 and adjust to get the correct exposure based on the Shutter speed and Aperture selected 

Techniques

• You can use milk (to make the water opaque, catch the light and stand out from other colours in the photo, 

• Try gels/celofane on your lights or coloured lights to put different colour into the image, Again... experiment

• Expect quite a few 'misses'. 

• Experiment to see what works best for you.

Here are a couple of ways to setup (there are lots of variation I am sure you can think of)

• Use a cable release to trigger the camera. this will avoid camera shake

• using a 2 second timer dely may help to allow more time to get the splash & shutter release synchronised

• If using a flash use a slower shutter speed eg 4 sec. The image will only expose when the flash fires so the trick is to fire the flash as the splash occurs. 

For this you need minimal ambient light so that other motion is not detected... You only want the freeze of the the motion when the flash fires.

• For a faster shutter speed Set camera to burst and hold the shutter release for about  3-5 secs with a high frame rate  high frame rate of  5+ per sec.

You will need to play with timings to get it right!

Focusing

• Always drop the water from the same point so you will nwo exactly where it will land.

• do a test drop and obeserve where the drop hits. Mark it and then focus on that point

• Set the lens to manual focus so that the focus point does not change. 

  • if you use the shutter release (default setup) to also focus on the subject, then this will effectively stop the camera from refocusing (Don't forget to put the lens back to Auto focus at the end)

  • If you use back button focus - then this step is really not necessary as long as you don't press the back button the focus should not change.

• With a wide angle lens, usually focusing on something 10-20m away is sufficient to reach infinity focus and if it's dark you can use a torch or car headlights to do this.

Camera positioning

If you have one light illuminating a back wall, point camera angled down towards the water to get the reflected light off a back wall / sheet etc. It gets a more even backlight and avoids direct (harsh) flash on the actual splash

VIDEOS with Ideas and techniques

Here are a few videos  to help with water drop splash

       https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngrmvaw5UlM  This Video has plenty of ideas and useful tips

- Drop piece of lemon(or something else)  into a glass -     https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RQP4BePNLJU

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-0Q7_uaqdzI

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/zj82u_0tY9M

Experimental photography like this will probably have a high level of failure, but learn from each shot and refine. Experiment to get different effect.

Come back here to check for updates

NOTE: The aim of this Set Subject topic is to practice and demonstrate the use of a Triptych. the subject of the images is not relevant 

(other than the images need to have been take in 2023, 2024 or 2025)

Definition:

A set of three associated artistic, literary, or musical works intended to be appreciated together.

The term triptych comes from the Greek word 'triptykhos', which translates to mean 'three-layered'. 

The idea of three pieces creating layers and adding depth to a single artwork is central to some of the most famous and enduring triptychs throughout the history of art. 

The best kind of images for a triptych canvas are those that work as strong stand-alone images. When put together with their two counterparts, they become even stronger, making a great visual piece. Triptychs are almost like an illusion, with three distinct parts that blend together to create a full picture. 

The different types of Triptych - https://abstractedreality.com/the-different-types-of-triptychs/

Methods / Process

Creating Triptych with your Photographs - https://brentmailphotography.com/composition/creating-triptychs-with-your-photographs.html?fbclid=IwY2xjawNa_XJleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHum43i8wb9jlp5cFlKfJIPDy1DsIX1BVFSh8LeEvShWWzwC4F00j4PcwoS53_aem_miVPmxIqslN_4B9mSHCbYQ

• Creating a Triptych - Digital Camera World - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oi1AEIKMoXg

• The Art of Creating a Triptych -  https://abstractedreality.com/the-art-of-creating-a-triptych/

• ‘How to Make a Triptych’ - https://abstractedreality.com/how-to-make-a-triptych/

• The Triptych Cut’  - https://abstractedreality.com/the-triptych-cut-7-options-for-arranging-your-panels/

HOW TO CREATE A TRYPTCH 

Both Photoshop and Lightroom can create Collages & Triptychs

See links below for various videos.

In Lightroom

• Select your image(s) required and edit (as required)

  • If you are using 1 image split over the 3 frames then create 2 'Virtual Copies' of the image and select these and the original.

• Select the 'Print' Module

• Select the 'Triptych' template (on the left)

• In the Layout style (right panel)

• Select "Single Image / Contact Sheet'

• Adjust the cell, rows & columns under 'Layout' (right panel)\

• Adjust the 'Cell Sizes' 

Alternatives to Photoshop

photofunia Website - https://photofunia.com/effects/triptych

Simply 

• Select the layout 

• Set your frame colour

• Select the layout 

• upload your 3 images,

NCH - PhotoPad - download software has a collage create Collage function. Photopad is good basic photo editing software.

• • https://www.nchsoftware.com/photoeditor/index.html

CANVA - www.canva.com (It requires you to login, effectively creating an account)

Things to consider

• The Triptych can be made up of One or more images split into in 3 panels

• understand where the splits will fall on the selected image. Do not make the cut/split on a main subject 

• the individual images should be individually strong

• look for images with equal weight on both sides of the triptych

• what idea / notion / emotion are you using the Triptych to convey

• Split position / size

  •  A common to split into 3rds

  •  Alternatively 25% / 50% / 25%  or 20 / 60 / 20 or 50 / 30 / 20

Maintain visual coherency

• the overall balance of the 3 images to achieve a cohesive result

• Continuity of the theme, subject, patterns, lines, colours over the 3 images to help create a visual connection between each piece

• Keep your colour palette consistent and unified.

• Avoid strong, distracting colours where you don’t want them.

• Be aware of where the lighter areas of the image are and avoid having bright sections on the extreme edges of your outer panels.

Technical issues to watch for

• Make sure the image is sharp at the print size (adjust as required)

• Check for ghosting / halos on high contrast areas of the image

Youtube videos:

• The Power of 3 Photos (A guide to Triptych Photography) -  Chris Harvey - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSeHUTXEzk0

• Triptych Photography Shoot | Intimate Coastal Landscapes - Thomas Heaton - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdOnhiC6wpo

• Landscape Photography - Shooting a Triptych  - Chris Sale - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1Scfgzo1_Q

• Create a Collage in 3 Easy Steps in Photoshop (Diptych) – PHLEARN -  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yORQWy-f8-w

           yes, this is for a Diptych. Just split it into 3 for a triptych – Same principles

• How to Create a Triptych in Photoshop - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t54aQvoOjXw

• Panel of three images or Triptych - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWWhKbSTQBY

• How to make a Triptych or split panel print in Adobe Photoshop -  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXEIU3Hc4FE

• How to Split a Photo Into Multiple Frames - https://www.artifactuprising.com/diy/triptych-photography-gallery-wall?srsltid=AfmBOooTwoueVZ2eUBbG30kJVDC10ZUrpHrVbiUnEU_015DxIPPsCkqa

EXAMPLES:

• https://au.pinterest.com/mrsstanchina/triptych/

Definition:

A Time lapse sequence take a series of photos and stitches them together to make a video. 

Videos usually run at between 24 and 30 frames per second (fps), so for a 30 second video at 24 fps you would need to take 720 photos. If the images are taken 1 every 10 seconds then that will 7200 seconds (120 minutes) to capture or if 1 every 2 seconds that will be 1440 Seconds (24 minutes)

Time lapse compresses time so it is great to capture events that take a long time to occur.

• It shows the passing of time.

• It can show a visually interesting scene (e.g. the movement of clouds over a landscape)

  e.g. a sunrise or sunset as it transitions from dark to light (or vice versa). A flower opening, a plant growing, something being built, activity at a busy location. Clouds

• to give a fast paced vibe

The end results are very similar, but with the time-lapse video you may not have access to the individual images taken in the sequence.

Terminology ( may vary between camera brands)

Interval The interval between each image 

No. of shots The total number of images required to achieve the length of video you require

Time Required (Shooting time) The time required to capture all the required images in the sequence

Playback time The length of the resulting video

Auto Exposure (exposure smoothing) Sets whether the camera will adjust the exposure settings as the lighting conditions change during the capture session

Additional settings that MAY be available (depending on your camera)

Card time The calculated length of time available to record images on the current memory card (based on the space available and image size)

Movie record size This is the movie quality setting e.g. 1080 p (Standard Definition), 4k Video (probably various options)

Main Recording format This sets the 'technical recording format - Best to check your manual for this one.

Screen Auto off Will set whether the screen will be on or off during the capture session (to save battery usage on long sequences)

Beep as image taken (Silent photography) Sets whether you will get an audible tone (beep) when each image is taken (this could get VERY annoying, so probably best to disable)

Interval priority Determines whether the interval between images will have priority over shutter speed (if the shutter speed becomes longer then the interval)

Focus between shots Determines if the camera will focus between shots (if low light this may not function correctly). Recommend - manual focus

Methods / Process

1. Most modern digital cameras have a "Time Lapse Video" feature that will allow you to create a Time Lapse video "In Camera"

If your camera has video capabilities - try putting the camera into Video mode.

• CANON call this feature "Time Lapse Video" and it is usually in the Red 'Shooting" menu when the camera is in VIDEO mode

• NIKON call this feature Time-Lapse Video and it is usually on the "Photo Shooting" menu

2. Interval Timer -  Many cameras have a built in Intervalometer (Interval Timer). This feature allows you to take a series of images (at full resolution) and stitch them together in post processing.  If your camera does not have a built in intervalometer then you can buy an accessory that plugs into your camera that will allow you to set the interval, number of frames etc and control the camera once activated.

You should check your Camera Manual to find how to enable the "Time Lapse Video" feature for your particular camera

• Focus on your key subject before you start shooting

• Set your camera mode to either Shutter priority, Aperture Priority or Manual

• Set your ISO (remember Auto ISO will try to balance the exposure, but in low light may result in high ISO, grainy images

• Take a short test sequence before you press the button on a long sequence

Things to consider

• Set your camera up on a STURDY & LEVEL Tripod

• You'll need the camera battery to be fully charged (you'll be recording for a while)

Most camera batteries will last a couple of hours while timelapse shooting. Some cameras allow you to directly power the camera from an external source or by using a "dummy" battery connected to a power source. (These are optional extra accessories) 

• You'll need plenty of space on your memory card. (I recommend using a large capacity card that is empty to start with)

• consider what your subject is and compose the shot.

• avoid (if possible) the situation where there will be people (or anything else) that will pass closeby in front of the camera

• If its windy - remove the camera strap and anything that might catch  the wind and result in camera shake

Youtube videos 

• search for your Camera Model and then "Time Lapse Video" e.g. Nikon D500 Time lapse video

•  How To Shoot A Time-Lapse: THREE METHODS!! - Dunna Did It - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRJ2RpIYy2Y

Note: Option 3 at 9min 10 sec is the option we would use on our DSLR or Mirrorless cameras.

Some Examples of TIME LAPSE  photography:

• https://timelapseitalia.com/   (the text is in italian (I think) but the videos are amazing and should provide MANY ideas

Videos and other instructional aids

• Basic Setup and process - Canon Collective (but it will be similar for all brands of cameras) - https://www.canon.com.au/get-inspired/how-to-shoot-timelapse-video-neal-walters

• Time Lapse Calculator - PHOTOPILLS - https://www.photopills.com/calculators/timelapse

• How to shoot timelapse on a NIkon d750 and Nikon d5200 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SS2B4egJHQ

• NIKON Z Series - Guide - https://onlinemanual.nikonimglib.com/z30/en/09-03-32.html

• Canon R series - Guide - https://ihitthebutton.com/canon-eos-r5-timelapse/

• Complete Guide to Time-Lapse Photography - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eXy8SdWTlRn-CQMzDgaY8o3D6LD7l16v/view?usp=drive_link

Come back here to check for updates

" RECREATE THIS IMAGE "

The purpose of the activity is to get you to think about and use 'available light' and the different techniques/approaches that were used to achieve the look of the original photo.

The image we have chosen uses a few easily obtainable props and natural light, but the trick is to put it all together. The videos below will hopefully provide you with plenty of ideas and inspiration.

How hard can it be? 😉🧐🤔

The photograph to be "RECREATED" is by Josef Sudek (his nickname was The poet of Prague"") and is titled "Glass with Flower" 

Here is a link to the image that you need to replicate and that is used in the video  >>> https://collections.artsmia.org/art/115381/glass-with-flower-josef-sudek OR you can print this PDF >>> Image to be Replicated

Yep!... We realise that the chosen image that you need to replicate is in monochrome

So for the Set Subject Colour section of the comp, let's see what you can do for a colour version of the image..

Also, since every image entered will be Titled "Glass with Flower" we will add a unique number to the end of each entry Title (prior to voting) so you can isolate which image # best meets the brief.

Here are several Videos to set you off on the right path and give you some ideas

VIDEO #1  - is a YouTube video by Thomas Heaton. 

Thomas Heaton - "In My Garage with Ted Forbes - Art of Photography"  >>> https://youtu.be/OafIDC2TRVU?si=Aj9VMg3ncWFK0eUl

        (you can skip the 1st 2 minutes of the video if you want)

 ( Tom is a UK based landscape photographer - Check out  his other photography videos on his YouTube channel )

The video was made during lockdown as a 'learning' activity initiated by another youtuber, Ted Forbes

The other 3 videos are by Ted Forbes ( Youtube channel - The Art of Photography )  (It's worth checking out some of the 100's of videos that Ted has produced over the years when you get some spare time.)

VIDEO #2 - The title is self explanatory. It gives some great insights about what to look for when you tackle this challenge.

Ted Forbes - "What I learned from COPYING a MASTER Photograph"  >>>  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zR4fk7TXN5g

VIDEO #3 - This is the Video that triggered / inspired Thomas (and ultimately us) to try this exercise

Ted Forbes - "Available Light : Photo Assignment #1, Part 1"  >>>  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJafQpGADjg

VIDEO #4 - This video explains and analyses in more detail the process of replicating the 'look' of a photo and some of the issues that Ted, himself found

Ted Forbes - "Did I just FAIL my own Photo Assignment?" >>>  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D4cWArgYlw

If you have any questions or need help please call or email Chris