After leaving the comfort of connection, I stepped into the quiet wild of the Ishinca Valley — no signal, no notifications, just mountains and movement. What followed was a week of grit, awe, and high-altitude adventure.
We left Huaraz in what looked like a relic from the 1970s — a rusty old Toyota climbing steep dirt roads like a mountain goat. After an hour, we arrived at Cochopompa (3,200 m), where the donkeys took the load, and we began our hike into Ishinca Valley.
The trail was mellow, weaving beside a river flanked by wildflowers, trees, and boulders. Then came the view — Tocllaraju, the most stunning ice-cream-cone-shaped peak I’ve ever seen. Urus, equally striking, stood nearby. That would be our first objective.
We reached the Refugio and set up camp. Crowded rooms pushed me to pitch my tent — cold, a bit loud, but peaceful. Our small team was set: me, my climbing partner Tommy, and our guide Matoco.
Alarms rang at 3:30 AM. We ate at 4 and hit the trail by 5. The route was varied — steep early sections, then a grade 4 scramble that felt harder in the thin air.
My fingers froze early, and I had to switch gloves twice. My LENZ heated gloves saved the day — bulky but blissfully warm.
We roped up for the glacier: crampons, harness, helmet. A smooth snow climb brought us to the summit around 9 AM. Breathtaking views, strong movement, and a solid acclimatization day. We were back at the Refugio by noon.
After a rare good sleep, we packed and ascended to Toclla’s high camp in just 2.5 hours. The trail was steep, ending with a bouldery stretch that tested my knee.
Camp sat among rocks with a panoramic view of Tocllaraju’s massive face. The glacier was just steps away. Clouds and wind rolled in, but we were ready.
We woke at 11:30 PM, dressed in every layer we had, and stepped into the darkness at 1:15 AM. The route began with soft snow dunes, then steep climbs and crevasses — thankfully bridged — and technical sections that tested our focus.
The cold was brutal. My battery-powered gloves and socks were essential. But the real challenge was the crowd: 4–5 teams bottlenecking the route, with poor climbing etiquette. It slowed us down and created chaos.
Still, we summited Tocllaraju at 9:25 AM. The view was majestic. The descent was another story — long lines to rappel and a grueling return to the Refugio by 6 PM.
I collapsed into my tent, cold and sleepless but deeply fulfilled.
No internet. No distractions. Just rhythm, breath, and mountain.
Ishinca Valley tested my patience, my lungs, and my will.
And I’d go back in a heartbeat.