English Sailors new cruiser. Model: Seaward 25, year 1997.

Above: Our eldest daughter sailing our Seaward 25 with friends on the Illinois River in Peoria, Illinois.

Above: Sailing through the straights of Mackinaw. Mackinaw Bridge, Michigan, in background.

Above: Our first family sail in Peoria, Illinois after purchasing the Seaward 25. Mom and Dad are pleased with the wheel steering and the entire boat. Everyone likes the aft rail seats.

Destinations so far:

• Illinois River, Peoria, IL
• Lake Fenton, Michigan
• Lake Michigan and Lake Charlevoix
• Mackinaw Island

Above: Photos from raising the mast in Charlevoix, Michigan.

Our Story of the Seaward 25

We are very please with our purchase of a used Seaward 25 in year 2014 after a tornado claimed our first cruising sailboat. Its 2' shallow draft allows us to use it in the Illinois River / Peoria Lake near our home. The trailer allows us to continue exploring new waters.

We are making improvements in the boat to suite our age. I am no longer as nimble as a cat while walking on deck, and I like to keep the lifting effort to a minimum so my back remains healthy. We hope to use this boat for many years, so we are using opportunities now to prepare for the future when this work will be challenging.

Raising the Mast:

1. It is surprising that we can't find a YouTube video on this subject for the older boat and trailer.
2. This requires at least 2 people, raising the mast using the main-sheet hardware is easy, keeping the mast aligned with the centerline of the boat isn't. We always position the boat bow-to-wind when raising the mast, and never raise it during a strong wind.

Improvements For raising The Mast:

1. Notice the vertical mast support bar above the rudder; we added a roller to this on the forward edge. The roller helps when moving the mast fore/aft (not shown in this photo). The roller isn't the final solution since the base for this vertical pole isn't really strong enough to take all the loads from this job without some help. Also, moving the mast fore/aft still requires someone to stand on the transom and lift the mast slightly when the region where mast-shroud-base pass this vertical support.
2. When trailering and the mast is horizontal, we discovered it bends a lot due to road bumps. To resolve this, we added a support pole to the center of the mast in the location of the deck-mast-step.
3. A sturdy 6' ladder is helpful.

Mast Raising Improvements Still Needed:

1. When the mast is horizontal, we need a fixture to secure the mast to the bow pulpit. We see lots of boat owners have a wood fixture.
2. We need something to support side/side motion of the mast while raising it. This may be the most challenging upgrade of all.

Above: First trip to test the Suburban and trailer upgrades, on route to Lake Charlevoix, Michigan. Our son did most of the trailer rework during his summer vacation. Between boat trailers, high school classes, and FIRST Robotics, our son has become a proficient metal worker. We later updated the rear Suburban drum brakes to those used in a similar dual-axle Chevy trucks to increase stopping power.

Above: Over the years we lost many a surge brake to water in the reservoir. The towels and plastic wrap is a simple effort to mitigate that problem.

Above: Trailer for Towing Seaward 25

One of the big jobs was to find a tow vehicle. We chose a 1999 Suburban 2500 with a 6.7L V8 gasoline engine. We chose this because its had adequate specs for towing, and could hold 7+ passengers. We considered a newer suburban, but they were really expensive and borderline for towing specs. We started the Suburban purchase at $8k, we then spent another $8k to replace worn out components in suspension, brakes, rear axle, AC, ... Even at 20k expenditure, we were still well below the $30k that all newer comparable SUV's were selling for with approximately 100,000 miles.

Our first boat upgrade was to replace the old tires that came with the boat when we purchased it. We started by taking the rig to a truck stop and getting some weight information.

1. Weight of Suburban by itself was 3340 lb front axle, 3420 lb rear axle, 6760 lb total.
2. Weight as pictured: 3220 lb front axle, 3700 lb rear axle, 4880 lb trailer axles, 11800 lb total.

Improvements For Towing:

1. Trailer tire upgrades. We chose Kuhmo 185/R14C, this is an 8 ply radial tire with max load rating of 1874 lb at 65 PSI. This gave us a total tire rating of 7496 lb, and a safety factor of 1.5.
2. The tire required new rims, and I was surprised to learn that steel rims often had a pressure limit of 50 PSI, so we upgraded to these aluminum rims with higher pressure ratings.
3. Most trailer tires have a 65 MPH speed rating. Even if the trailer load is well below the tire rating, and the tire is relatively new, there is still risk of tire failure at the speed rating or above. My experience of traveling 65 MPH in the right lane of interstate highways, at night, wasn't a secure feeling since the semi trucks travel so much faster and were occasionally found still moving out of my lane when they were alongside our tow vehicle. This Kuhmo tire has a 95 MPH speed rating, not that we intend to go that fast, but we want the ability to keep pace with interstate truck speeds at night.
4. We also purchased 2 additional new tires and rims as spares. We learned from previous vacations that if we experience a trailer tire blowout while still hundreds of miles from home, we don't want to continue the journey without a spare. So, basic requirement for uninterrupted vacations = 2 spare tires.
5. Modifying fenders was needed to ensure there was adequate vertical clearance above the top of the tires. To judge the necessary vertical clearance, consider a leaf spring failure (yes, this happened to us once) and how far the axle could move vertically until it hit the frame. Then make sure there is sufficient clearance at this position that the tire doesn't hit the fender, or else it will tear the fender off among other damage. Then, make additional brackets to prevent the fenders from flexing from side to side, this motion can cause stress cracks in the frame brackets that support the fenders.
6. Adding vertical guides to the trailer is a big help to keep the boat centered over the trailer. This is especially helpful if there is a cross wind when launching and retrieving.
7. We modified the trailer tongue so it can extend further. This modification prevents the axle hubs from being submerged at the boat ramp. I have made sure the axle vent tube is positioned to prevent water intrusion. However, research I made suggests that axle seal designs are not that great, and not trustworthy. I had to have an axle rebuilt due to this failure once previously, so am extra cautious now. A disadvantage is the trailer is a little more flexible than it was previously.
8. The surge brake hose/line needs to be disconnected from the trailer coupler/surge-brake assembly if the trailer has a telescoping tongue extension. We had a 3500 PSI rated hydraulic quick disconnect for this job, but it leaked! So, we purchased a special unit from SwageLock that had a 10,000 PSI rating. It was expensive, but it works just fine!
9. As a lesson learned, the surge brake assembly normally has a lousy cap and seal, that will eventually allow rain water to enter the reservoir. So, we keep this covered to keep rain away from the cap. This is another advantage of the trailer tongue extension, it keeps the surge brake assembly out of the water.
10. We fond the bow trailer support moved down during our travels. So we replaced it with a small boat jack as trailer bow support. We remove this jack entirely when launching and retrieving the boat. It bolts down into new supports added to the trailer frame. We have a simple clip added to the jack handle so it can't turn while we are trailering. The rubber pad that supports the bow gets smashed after a certain number of highway miles, so we keep spares on hand and simply replace as needed. Perhaps another support device can extend its life?
11. We added "bearing buddies" to keep grease in our axle hub bearings. According to our experience, it is often difficult to press these "bearing buddies" into the hub. It isn't a good idea to pound the bearing buddies into the hub because this can cause the bearing rollers to dent their raceway. To avoid this risk, we built a special tool that is a press similar to a bearing puller. This tool has special wheel stud extensions. We then use a bar with properly spaced holes across the threaded rods, and extra nuts on the long studs, so we can "gently press" the "bearing buddies" into the hub.

Towing Improvements Still Needed:

1. We need a fixture to secure the mast to the bow pulpit.
2. We need something to support side/side motion of the mast while raising it.
3. We need to modify the bow winch support to have a fore/aft adjustment because we learned the trailer bends a lot when we pull the boat out of the water, and when we relax the winch strap, the winch bow support moves away from the hull.
4. We found the bunks that the trailer sits on have slid down too low. This has caused the keel to push into the hull, with some big hull compression areas as result. We purchased the boat in this condition, and it took a while to determine the cause. Recently we took measurements and discovered the starboard bunk was about 1" lower than the port side. We raised the starboard bunk 1.5" and port bunk 0.75" this fall, and see the keel is still resting on its board. We hope to take measurements from a friends similar trailer and make further increases. When we are confident it is right, we plan to place angle iron on each bunk vertical support to prevent them from sliding down during future trips.
5. We purchased an electric winch with remote control since I don't like walking on boat ramps when the water is cold. Our first winch broke on the first try. We purchased a much larger one (the kind 4-wheel enthusiasts put on the front of their trucks) but have not installed it. This is probably going to be a big project with some form of standing platform that I can step onto from the bow of the boat. I will probably make a provision to retain the hand crank winch in case of another electric winch failure.
6. Additional trailer lights on the stern of the boat. Again, we have a lot of experience towing cruising sailboats, and know the interstate gets pretty crazy at night. It would be nice to have a safe rig so our towing schedule isn't restricted to daylight hours.

Lessons Learned:

1. The trick to trailer/boat retrieval. Many launchings passed under the hull before we learned this trick. The trick is to back the trailer in so that the top of the bow winch strap is level with the boat bow-eye, when the boat is floating in the water. Then when the boat is winched against the trailer bow roller, the strap is as short as possible. As the trailer is pulled out of the water, the boat moves away from the bow roller the least amount possible. It is ideal to have the roller sit directly on top of the bow eye, this reduces trailer vertical motion at the bow during roading (this works for our speedboat trailer, but not for this cruising sailboat).
2. Cruising sailboat specifications may understate the boat weight. They may also put small tires on the trailers with inadequate load and speed ratings. It is more likely to have problems with older boats, it appears new trailers are better made. We recommend taking your boat and tow vehicle to a certified scale. Then double check your tow vehicle ratings, hitch ratings, trailer axle & tire ratings.
3. Most boat trailers don's support the bow well. A supplemental device is helpful to prevent the bow from twisting out of shape, or drooping. Do not let the winch strap pull the bow downward during winter storage.
4. Boat trailers require as much maintenance and attention as the boat they support.
5. Trailer tires were all made in China in year 2015, and quality was a problem. The internet was full of horror stories. Many RV sites recommended switching to truck tires. We did this, and it has worked out ok.
6. Tires are made of new compounds. They don't last like they did in the good old days. After 5 years they are too old.
7. Trailer tire speed limits are normally 65 MPH, don't expect a margin of safety, even when they are significantly under their load rating.
8. Travel with quality spare tires, bearings/seals/grease, jacks and tools. A significant fire extinguisher in the tow vehicle is a good idea.

Above: Boat Repair for Deck Core

The cockpit floor had a leak at the steering gear mount that resulted in the entire core compromised. After winter season storage, when the core was as dry as it was going to get, we conducted this repair. We drilled holes in the top glass, utilizing a spacer to ensure the bit does not penetrate the lower glass layer. We used fiberglass putty to seal any holes in the lower glass. We used brass tubes to seal off the steering-gear bolt holes. Then we poured marine epoxy into the holes, as it filled the void, we kept adding more epoxy until the space was filled. We then sanded the floor with a belt sander, and used epoxy putty to fill any low spots. The photo above shows the deck at this stage of repair. Then we painted with water based truck bed nonskid paint. After two seasons this repair is still working, but we found a very small amount of fuel leaked onto this paint and it came off the deck. This non skid paint serves the purpose, but the white does not clean well. We are considering resurfacing this cockpit floor with synthetic teak decking material.

Above: Rudder Repair

A relatively short tube (about 8 inches long) is molded into the rudder that engages the steering gear. It came loose and pulled out of the rudder. We had noticed something wasn't right for about a year, and we think the complete failure occurred when another boater plowed into our rudder when the boat was tied up at dock (we weren't there, but stories told, it was enough of a crash to make folks almost fall off the dock). Anyway, it was an easy fix. We sealed the end of the tube, cleaned it thoroughly, covered the hole and tube with epoxy, and inserted the tube back into the rudder. We then used metal foil covered tape (the kind used for sealing home air ducts) and made a small cup around the rudder/tube joint, and filled that with epoxy. This pool of epoxy was then free to flow into the joint to fill any voids. This has been an effective repair.

Above: Fuel Tank Repair

This Seaward has a Yanmar 10 HP inboard Diesel engine. When we purchased it, the boat had a red fuel tank that was worn out from sun exposure. The trick is the diesel engine has a fuel return line, so the tank needs two fuel ports. We were not able to find a two port fuel tank that is portable for above deck usage, so we had to modify one. We decided to modify this small tank (its capacity is about 3 gallons) because it would be light enough to carry around when full, and will reduce the amount of fuel remaining at end of the season (as in last season, half the tank).

Our studies revealed that Buna gasket material is rated for Diesel, and that no adhesive known to man securely bonds to the plastic used in these fuel tanks. So we ordered the gasket material to make the tank shown. We also put a thin layer of LifeCaulk on either side of the gasket in hopes of achieving some bond so the screws were not doing the entire securement job, and to seal around the screws. Note that BoatLife Life Calk has excellent resistance to Diesel and gasoline, and that RTV or Silocone does not. After one season, this new tank is still working like a champ.

Portable Fuel Line Quick Disconnects:

We didn't want our cruising sailboat fuel tank secured with a cheap plastic quick disconnect fittings. So we purchased Swagelok stainless steel connectors with special seals rated for diesel fuel. These seal when disconnected, but we purchased 4 caps to keep everything clean and sealed when the tank is removed from the boat. We also have a significant strap to hold the tank into the boat.

Portable Tank Vent Line:

Our studies revealed that portable tanks are suppose to be sealed so they don't vent, even when left out in the hot sun. They also have plastic valves intended to prevent the tank pressure from reaching the motor. We are not willing to use plastic valves in our main Diesel supply line, so this isn't an option!

By contrast, fuel tanks installed inside the hull are intended to be vented and there are a lot of instructions to ensure the vent does not have a low spot that traps fuel, and they also have special devices to prevent fuel spilling out the vent. Our tank is sort of in between these, it is mounted above deck, but under a seat, and supplies an inboard diesel.

Our design choice is for a vented tank. However, we don't have enough vertical space between top of the tank, and the deck, for the anti-spill valve. While we sort out this problem, our tank has a vent hose that is plugged, and we leave the tank cap vent slightly loose so pressure doesn't get too high.

Above: Fuel Filter/Water Separator

When we purchased the boat we replaced the filter element in this separator, along with the one in the engine. The replacement filters also have replacement seals for the water separator bowl. We had an instance where our new filter plugged due to sludge in the fuel. It failed while we were in a narrow harbor inlet, fortunately it was calm and there was no crazy boat traffic. Still, we had a really tough time getting the water separator bowl off the filter. Hence, the tool box is now stocked with spare filters, and two strap wrenches.

Also, a recent discovery, the fuel line at this separator had a crack and leak. Due to its location under the seat, it isn't easy to see. Fortunately our kids are more flexible and spotted the leak source. Next season, new fuel lines all around.

Above: Tools for Transferring Spare Fuel

All our cruisers have been small, and we like to keep extra for passages. There was a timeframe when gas can quality hit rock bottom, and it was very hard to find an acceptable product. The one shown was proven to seal when stored below decks in some rough seaways.

Our old Diesel fuel likes to form sludge. We are now more diligently using additives to resist this. As a stop gap, we also found this portable fuel filter / funnel can be inserted into the fuel tank opening. We discovered that it does a fine job of catching debris and sludge.

Transferring fuel in rough seas has always been a concern. We discovered a process where we can tie the spare can securely above the cockpit seat, and use this unique siphon tube. This tube works by shaking the brass end up and down in the fuel can, it then pumps the fuel through the tube until a gravity siphon takes effect. It stores nicely in a 1 gallon ziplock bag.

Above: Cabin and Crack in Cabin Ceiling Under Mast

This is about the last of our repairs for the "purchase condition" of the boat. We noticed the mast is over an arched bulkhead between main cabin and V berth. We like how this arch provides an open centerline through the cabin, it is a really nice design feature. The previous owner warned us not to fully tighten the shrouds and stays, to reduce compression on this area. Still, the previous owner's repair had cracked again before he sold the boat, and in the three seasons we have used it, the crack has grown. This is my winter research project. I am hoping the manufacturer will tell me what structural members are between the deck and this arch, so I can discern how much this fiberglass arch is structural vs. cosmetic.

Above: Modified Pump for Wet Bilge

Normally the bilge stays dry at harbor, until we all load onto the boat and set sail. Se have not found & fixed the source of the leak yet. Latest guess, the tension load from mast stays is transferred to the hull through a stainless steel plate that traverses through the cabin space. It is shown in a cabin photo above. Where this plate connects to the hull at boot-stripe level, appears fastened by a single carriage bolt. Perhaps the bolt receives so much tension that it pulls from the hull and opens a leak path? We will try reinforcing this and see what happens.

Another possibility is the rub rail. That is a significant big piece of hardware, we hope it isn't that.

We don't think it is the hull to deck joint, since it is an outward flange and the boat has so much freeboard...

We don't think it is the deck or cabin top, or hatches, because a lot of water enters in while these items appear relatively dry.

The bilge is deepest at a well at the front of the keel, approximately under the mast. It is accessed by a small hole, and appears a small space. It is too small for an electric bilge pump. We tried several pumps before settling on this solution. It is a modified marine hand pump with a fitting that accommodates a 3/4" clear braided PVC hose.