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When I started weaving on my little rigid-heddle loom it was love at first warp. I was amazed at how quickly and easily I could get everything measured and threaded with my little warping peg. Simply clamp down the loom on the table, clamp the peg on a bookshelf, and in around thirty minutes I was ready to weave. What wasn't there to love about that?

The only solution to my problem, I realized, was to bite the bullet and learn how to use a warping board. To me, a very beginning weaver, using a warping board was intimidating. There were calculations, mysterious pegs, and ominous sounding terms like "choke" and "cross." As it turns out, I had nothing to fear. All it took was a little confidence, the right yarn, and Liz Gipson.

Washington ruined his teeth using them to crack walnut shells. The dentures he had were made out of lots of things, but not wood. Instead, they came largely from human teeth, pulled from the mouths of the poor and his enslaved workers. They also came from ivory, cow teeth and lead. He had a little spring inside the dentures that helped them open and close.

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But glossing over all those hiccups, the truck looked as silly as it did awesome. It was a bit small, but had a lot of charm. So I started talking with the trading company (a little outfit known as ChangLi that also supplies a few importers in the US).

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Simply set up a fan up outside of the freezer with its door propped open. The airflow helps the ice to melt faster. You will still need some time for this to work, depending on the thickness of the ice. But you can speed up the process without putting in much work.

A traditional method to speed up the process of defrosting your freezer is to place pans of boiling water on the shelves and close the door. Because freezers are well-sealed, the steam from the hot water helps loosen the ice so that it naturally melts off the walls. You can then remove it by hand using a plastic scraper after about 30 minutes.

Dip a rag in boiling water, pour rubbing alcohol onto it and place it on the ice to loosen it. Concentrate on little pieces at the edges, grasping loose areas and wiping around the ice to remove it. The frost should start melting somewhat quickly. This approach works best when you need to remove just a thin layer of frost rather than large chunks of ice.

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Nice write up Ray, I actually recently invested in the Garmin speed/cadence sensor for my 305. I was getting front lower knee pain after longer rides. I realized I was trying to grind to hard by selecting lower gears and slower cadence. Since installing the Garmin sensor I am now keeping my cadence at around 80rpm and the knee pain has completely gone on the longer rides. I need to get used to the higher leg speed but that will come with time.

I want to buy the 305 and use it for all 3 tri disciplines. Do I need a speed sensor for training outdoors or will the GPS surfice for getting bike ride info or should I spend the extra cash and get one?

I am just returning a defective Garmin 910XT, after over a dozen Garmin products I have had it with their quality control. I have Garmin GSC 10 sensors on my bikes and a couple of Garmin heart rate straps and a Garmin ANT + usb stick. I am looking at the Suunto Ambit watch as a replacement. Do you know if it is compatible with the Garmin GSC 10 cadence sensor and garmin Heart rate belts and Garmin ANT + usb stick ? Btw thank you for your excelent reviws and web site.

Hi Ray

I am a paraplegic and have just started handcycling. I am keen on getting cadence info and speed and am thinking of getting the Garmin Edge 500 and the Wahoo speed/cadence sensor. This would have to be cut and extended as the cable is too short to reach the hand cranks. Any advice would be appreciated.

I just purchased a Garmin Edge 500 to replace a 305. I ride a recumbent trike so I started to modify the Garmin Speed/Cadence sensor. I have soldered on to the two wires after removing the speed sensor, and am using a Cateye speed sensor attached to the two wires. Do you think this will work as well as the Wahoo Speed/Cadence sensor you show?

I have the Timex Global Trainer and just added the GSC 10. For some reason, it will only capture distance from the speed/cadence sensor when the GPS is on and the GSC 10 is paired. Is there a way for it to capture both the GPS map and the speed/cadence data?

My question is regarding the GSC 10 speed/cadence sensor and durability. I have read reviews that complain about the unit not being water proof / resistant. I would be putting this on a mountain bike and can guarantee that it would get wet from either creek crossings, rain or from washing the bike. Have you found this to be an issue?

Just a quick question, I have a power2max is there anyway of using the cadence from the p2m and the speed from the GSC-10 ? Only reason I ask is I have experienced a couple of drop outs in power readings and p2m reccomended me to use the power2max for cadence but also wanted accurate speed readings (indoor and out).

The other day I ordered the Suunto Cadence pod to go along with my Ambit. After having explored your site a bit, it looks like I could save money and get both speed/cadence from the same pod by ordering a different pod. Any reason (other than the hassle factor) not to send my cadence pod back to Amazon and get a Garmin or Motorola pod that does both for less $$?

Hi Ray! I have the 910XT and the Edge 800 on my TT bike. On my long distance races (iron and half-iron) the 800 will lose connection to the Garmin speed/cadence sensor, but will remain connected on the 910XT. I have to rescan on the 800 mid-race to get reconnected to the speed/cadence sensor. What do you think is happening here?

Rainmaker,

 Your web site is fantastic and I use it more than the documentation that comes with the devices I am addicted to! I have just allowed myself a 910XT after a horrible Triathlon in Bretagne (36 degrees). My question is this:

 I want to use the Garmin Cadence Sensor with my EDGE 500 and the 910 XT and the HRM. It seems that when I pair the Cadence Sensor with the 910XT that I loose the pairing with the Edge 500. I want to use both the EDGE to watch my stats while racing and obviously wear the watch for the whole race and keep all data. Do I really need 2 cadence sensors? I have wondered on some races why some guys have 2 and maybe it is for this reason? Apologies in advance if the answer is obvious.

 Let me know if you are in Normandy and fancy a ride mate and thanks in advance for any reply.

Benn

Hi there; you seem to know a lot about the topics so here is one for you: I have a suunto 2s, the company and other distributer have run our of suunto cadence pods; which other cadence pods can work with suunto ambit 2s? Many thanks for your help.

I just purchased the Minoura LR760 and ready to get all the required accessories. I know I have to get the Minoura dongle to work with iPhone. My question, will the Garmin GSC-10 work with the dongle and the LiveTraining app? The Minoura site says LiveTraining works with any ANT+ sensors except Garmin and Digifit. But, if you continue reading down the LiveTraining page, it only calls out Digifit. I am thinking about the Garmin sensors so I am covered when I decide on a dedicated device (Edge).

Any idea why 2 people riding a Trainer Road wko using Ant+ cadence/speed would finish with the exact same distance covered on the Garmin at the finish despite one rider having 3 RPMs AND 78 watts averages more than the other rider for the entire wko? Thanks.

What I am curious how can I get the speed/cadence data to mapmyride app as they have sensor capability. I believe right now only Wahoo rflx+ capable doing so as the computer is ant+ and via Bluetooth 4.0 able to transmit to iPhone.

I have a Garmin Fenix 2 and was about to buy the garmin gsc speed/cadence sensor, but read lots of folks complaining about it being very non water resistant. That made me look into other options, and so far i guess the bontrager ant+ interchangable, and the wahoo ant+ cycling speed/cadence sensors are my other choices. Have any recomendations?

Is there a way to set the garmin computer (910xt) to ignore really high cadence? similarly to the way you can set it to ignore 0 cadence when calculating averages? The reason why is because when I go really fast downhill and Im coasting the sensor on the crank is right around the sensor on the bike, and slightly moving the crank up/down is making it think I have a cadence of 200+. I have tried coasting with the cranks on the opposite position, and I dont get those really high ridiculous cadence, but I dont feel as well balanced on the bike and cant go as fast downhill as I know I can. e24fc04721

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