recollections of a magical childhood


We're Going on Holiday - The Amazing Journey!



We used to go down to Bournemouth for every one of our holidays; Whitsun, Easter, Summer, Christmas (some) and even some Half-Terms!  We must have made our plans about when to meet at Waterloo, by letter or maybe by phone (our home number was Silverthorn 2003, what was yours?).

...well all I can recall is that it was Elmbridge exchange which became 01-399-????  (Turns out, after some research, it was 01-399-0386! - so well remembered!) I don't think we had a phone in the days prior to 1967. I had to walk to the shops outside the post-office and use the phone box. There was no dial. I had to ask the operator for Silverthorn 2003 and then do the Button A or Button B thing.

In those days you would have to ask people "are you on the phone?" to see if they had a phone at home or not!

Summer Holiday.mp4
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevor/pg21/Trevors%20Phone%20Number%20entry.jpg







Either that or we'd have to write to each other using a sheet or two of Basildon Bond!  I remember my Mum was keen on the pale blue version which had a white, lined sheet (also a blotting page?) that you had to put beneath the sheet being written on so you could write neatly (and Basildon Bond could save money by not having to print each sheet with a faint line!)



1959 calendar edited.jpg



24th July 1959

1:30 pm

School bell rings to signal the end of the term.




1:33 pm

I would walk home from King's Road Infants School (so I was less than 11 years old at the time and you are a year younger than me so were 10 or younger!).

King's Road Church of England School

1:46 pm

Up the steps and then pound up the stairs, get out of my school clothes and then rush back down with my pre-packed suitcase!



1:58 pm

Then dash down the road to the bus stop and wait for the 102 (there were other routes; 6B, 38, 69, 72, 102A, 121, 212, 249, 254, 257, ?? - try out routes here - click on the routes menu and choose a number).

On 5th May 1948, AEC Regents were introduced to the 102 route.  But I would have caught an AEC Regent III RT which replaced them on the 17th October 1951.  No Routemasters yet as they were not introduced until the 21st  June 1963.

I would have had no more than an 8-minute wait (see caption right)

Apparently, according to this timetable they ran every 6- 8 minutes!

To see the route details click on this image

2:06 pm

I distinctly remember waiting for it to come, looking into the distance and then, at last, it would appear.  I'd put out my arm to stop the bus as it drew nearer (even though it was not a "Request Stop" but just to be sure!).  Jump on to the rear platform by gripping the cream plastic-coated ribbed pole and get the conductor to put the suitcase under the stairs.

RT.mp4

Nip upstairs to either the front or rearmost seats and then pay my 1d when the conductor came up to collect my money. From the vantage point, I could see across the coal staithes and coal trucks where the "coal men" were filling up coal sacks for distribution to the houses. They had a sort of leather hat-come-neck-and-shoulder cape arrangement that meant they could hoist the sacks on their backs whilst keeping a lit roll-up clenched between their lips.


2:10 pm

When the bus turned right at the "Bull and Crown" pub.........................

This is just further up Kings Road from my school where I'd set off earlier!In the distance is the Bull & Crown, just after the Hairdressers on the left.It looks like it was taken around 1959/60
The Bull and Crown in 1973 after it had become a Berni Inn Steak Bar.Note the MkII Escort, Jaguar (those front wings won't last much longer!) and a Jenson Interceptor FF alongside the Morris 1100

................ I'd get ready to see if I could catch a glimpse of my Mum who worked in the Accounts office of a haberdashery shop in Station Road, North Chingford, called Uglows.  The office was above the shop and it looked out onto the main road. 

An old shot of Station Road in the 1940s

As an aside, I wonder why so many shops had awnings (left).  I distinctly recall watching shopkeepers pulling them out with long poles with hooks on the end.  You just don't see that anymore, do you?  So, what was their purpose?  I can suggest a few; to allow potential customers to examine their stock in their window displays whilst it was raining in the hope that they might buy something rather than scurrying home to get out of the wet OR to stop the sun fading the items in the window OR, in the case of butchers, bakers and fishmongers stopping the sun causing the foodstuffs to deteriorate in the heat.  Come to think of it, perhaps those type of shops still use them?  What do you reckon?


Interesting that you should have your attention drawn to shop awnings by that photo. They were certainly almost de rigueur in the 50/60s. I think you're right in what you say of their purpose and in those days they were considered almost essential.


Google says:-  Shop Awnings for high street retail shops are used for many reasons for the protection of the displays and control of summertime heat and sunshine through to providing an outside area for customers with a pleasant atmosphere created and protect them from the sun and rainfall.

Uglows of North Chingford where my Mum worked until she died (now gone!)
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv4/pg21/uglows003.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv4/pg21/uglows002.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv4/pg21/uglows001.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv4/pg21/uglows004.jpg


Some more original images from Marion

https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv4/pg21/uglows005.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv4/pg21/uglows006.jpg
Route 102 to Chingford Station 
102 & 257 at the Royal Forest Hotel where they would turn for their return journeys

2:14 pm

Then I'd ring the bell as we approached North Chingford station and jump off with my case. I’d cross the road and go through one of the two "arches" and buy a ticket to Bournemouth Central (you could do that then!) from the ticket office on the left hand side of the passage.

Chingford Station
An amazing photo of the place I would find myself having bought my ticket.This image - with the kind permission of Paul Kearley - see his Flickr album
Plenty to take in here.   To my left, as I enter, an N7 is taking on coal from the coal truck, no doubt, soon to be followed by having its tanks topped up from the water crane.  Also, some workers on ladders are fixing something under the canopy (or maybe painting it?).  A head or tail lamp is placed at the base of one of the canopy support pillars.  There's a sack trolley and a luggage barrow together with a rather random bale of hay.    Remember those confectionary dispensing machines?  6d a pop!  Then, there's a watchman taking great interest in a man using a pipe-bending tool. Note the sign between the tracks beneath the end of the overhead cables for the newly introduced electric motive units.  Plus, what looks like an old cardboard box.  There always seemed to be something like that left between tracks in stations that nobody was ever inclined to pick up!
Nice busy shot of Chingford station. I didn't know it as well as you did. I was always fascinated by the old GE steam-hauled coaches with the articulated bogies between the coaches which were quite ancient even in our days! 
Another shot of the station in the mid-60s.  Note the lady bending down to collect her bags and the guy beyond her walking up the platform with a travelling trunk on his shoulder!

With ticket and change pushed firmly in my pocket  I'd now need to work out which platform the “London train” is in, hauled by an N7 tank engine.

I’d choose a compartment in one of the red carriages.  The compartments were self-contained with no connection to other compartments and, having no corridors, nor to other coaches. These were introduced in 1928 as LNER Quint-Art sets designed by Sir Nigel Gresley. There were 5-car sets, and the articulated bogies effectively joined the carriages together rather than bogies.  In the peak hours, these operated as 10-car sets. 

69707 on a down stopping passenger train  at Duck Lees Lane crossing near Ponders End on 6 February 1960
69707 heading for Liverpool Street on 24 April 1960 shortly before the electrics took over

Above - Two very evocative shots that, whilst not precisely on the Liverpool Street to Chingford line (they are on one that spurred off just before Hoe Street station in Walthamstow and ran slightly north and ended in Bishop's Stortford) they do accurately capture those days.  They need to be clicked on to see them in full size to be best appreciated and to feel the soot and grime!   Copyright Alan Lewis Chambers






And here's a video (right) showing the station and the old N7s and coaching stock from about 5m 15s onwards

Chingford Station - story of a letter.mp4
Chingford Rail.mp4

I found this 5-minute video (left) on London suburban routes featuring the N7 locos and LNER Quint-Art coach sets.  I have tried to improve the colour and sharpness of the original but it was pretty poor (quite usual for the era) and variable with some sections under-exposed and some over.

Regrettably, Chingford is only covered in the final 30 seconds but it's nice to see it!

Interesting film about the N7s and the general area from Liverpool Street. Whilst we took it all then as the way things had always been, looking back from here it looks like WW2 had only just ended.......which I suppose it had! Coal dust, dirt, smoke and steam everywhere and blokes working their asses off to keep it all running. Aaah, good old Chingford! I can still hear the burbling sound of a decelerating Morris Minor down Dale View Avenue even now. 

https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv4/pg21/chingford_station_69620.jpg

N7s were "shedded" at Enfield

I do remember Chingford station and taking an N7 steam hauled train to Liverpool Street in the old red wooden carriages.  Smokey, sooty and leisurely are words that come to mind plus that Strawberry aroma you mentioned (page 16) around Stratford or Bethnal Green.  Didn't the N7s make that rhythmic sound of the Westinghouse air brake pump when stationary?  I remember too when the 305 electrics took over what a stunning difference they made being so ...erm modern!













The electrified service which started on 18 June 1962 had trains running every 10 minutes with additional services during the hours. The basic pattern was soon revised to every 20 minutes as much business had by this point been lost to road traffic.

https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv2/pg21/chingford.jpg
Steam N7s were eventually replaced by these Class 305s.  The photo was taken in 1962 

2:21 pm

Waiting, at the head of the platform at Chingford Station, for the scheduled departure time to set off for Liverpool Street. 

69503 N7 0-6-2T at Chingford Station (N.B. Liverpool Street destination board in Brake carriage) in the 1950s
Looking at the dusting of snow you can just imagine how cold it would have felt - may have to put to use what looks like a brazier at the base of the signal post! In the distance is the footbridge to Cross Road.  Copyright - Rail-Online
Nice picture of the N7 with its smokebox mounted Westinghouse pump. They must have worked them to death as I don't recall ever seeing one in a clean condition!
(Rail-Online - Incidentally, this website has some great photos and a pretty good search facility.  Try "Berrylands" for example)
Agreed - a good site for reference pics

Another shot of an N7 (69642) waiting at Chingford Station.  This is 1960 and, as yet, the destination board has not been changed for the outward journey unlike the one in the photo above.

Chingford to Higham's Park.mp4
N7 number 69719 sets off from Chingford, bunker first,  and pulls rapidly away for a fast run to Highams Park (actually recorded October, 1960)

2:28 pm

We roll out of Chingford Station and past this N7 (right) waiting to move some empty stock before going to the shed upline.





2:35 pm

Across the bridge into Wood Street Station.

Note that the line is already being electrified as you can see the gantries in place 
N7 Chingford circa 1959 Chingford yard N7 0-6-2 loco Circa 1957.It has stopped just in front of the houses that can just be seen in the distance in the above photo!  
Apparently, this loco was the 5th N7 to be built, in 1921 at Stratford and became an N74 when it received its round-topped firebox in 1941.  It was withdrawn in August 1959
 I do remember those N7s in the late 50s early 60s.
My memory is of a sadly neglected collection of grimy workhorses when we travelled up to Liverpool Street.The experience was what it must have been like travelling not long after the First World War.
The insides of the replacement electrics were like being in a spaceship after that!

Then I enjoy the ride into Liverpool Street, past all the houses and factories - one of which produced an incredibly strong smell - a sort of strawberry Trebor sweet smell!

I can smell it now!

I have since discovered that the smell emanated from a company called W J Bush & Co. in Ash Grove, near Bethnal Green, which was a manufacturer of flavourings and essential oils.

A fantastic photograph of Bethnal Green Station (albeit with this train on its way to Chingford rather than from it)
Photo credit:  Paul Kearley - Flickr Album

2:55 pm

I start looking out for other trains as we approached the East Coast Main Line junction at Bethnal Green Station, a few miles before the terminus. Here I would see 0-6-0 diesel shunters as well as A3 Pacifics, etc. before going into the tunnel that led to Liverpool Street station......................

Bethnal Green - wasn't that about where the soapy bubble-gum aroma emanated from?

Yes, it was.

My approach to Liverpool Street Station consisted of numerous parallel tracks.  They all ran side-by-side through a series of tunnels and deep cuttings.  Some of the tracks were separated by bricked supports similar to those seen on the left of the above photo but, instead of being "blind" apertures, as those are, they were open and you could see the additional tracks beyond.  I remember seeing other trains either leaving or entering the station as we approached our London destination.  This is a fantastically high-quality photo and well worth clicking on to reveal the full details.
The approach to Liverpool Street station is indeed a good photo. Just seeing that young fireman, who looks remarkably clean considering all the coal and dust about, makes you realise what a tough job that was. When he got home I expect he cleaned up and went out with his girlfriend for the evening. I'd have been knackered. I too remember those long stretches of parallel tracks and brick arches leading into Liverpool Street quite clearly. 
This image - with the kind permission of Paul Kearley - see his Flickr album

3:00 pm

 .......and into, usually, platform 1 or 2 - on the extreme right (from the driver's perspective). 

WH Smith kiosk on Liverpool Street Station 




Get out and onto the platform and take a furtive glance at the latest "glamour magazine" - Parade - as I walked past the WH Smith kiosk…

As raunchy as it got in 1961! 
Industrial Disputes, Railways, pic: 30th May 1955, London's Liverpool Street Station deserted during a rail strike  (Photo by Popperfoto via Getty Images/Getty Images)

3:01 pm

Note my arrival platform in the distance above.  I walk past the station porter who is sweeping up after the platform concourse has been washed by a little truck with circulating twin brushes (an activity I now recall having seen this image!) .....and then pop into the "Refreshments Room" and buy a sugar-glazed ring doughnut (American style!) that were fantastic!

You didn't tell me you'd already had a doughnut!...

I think I only used to grab one only on our weekend trainspotting forays, to be fair.  No time to waste on this journey!  Then down the steps to the tube.............

London, England, 1955, Scenes at Liverpool Street train station as engines belch out smoke
Liverpool Street in 1955
An evocative shot of the platform access road

3:03 pm

The tube train arrives and once the doors slide open I step inside.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JRLDmUZn6WeJ1g3XvOv-S5EbCduEqCt7/view?usp=drive_web
https://drive.google.com/file/d/198hTW5BdiFnKjMEzOuOm7tZcjfpSL0m8/view?usp=drive_web
This is how I remember the carriage interiorslampshades, wooden slatted floors with cigarette butts in-between
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19PkP4cmQjkBIZwxKNlP_lXuyRSaXqzfT/view?usp=drive_web

3:05 pm

Get off at Bank Station then look for signs leading me to the Waterloo & City Railway (not London Transport but some weird electric train with green coaches).

The ubiquitous little fold-up map
tube.mp4
View from the bottom of the escalators at Leicester Square tube station on the Northern and Piccadilly lines, London, England. The escalators have a rise of 80 3/4 feet.   (Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
How I remember them, especially those uplights
The escalators in 1956
The futuristic "Travolator" - moving walkway
I managed to find a couple of films of the Travolator from 1960 - Film 1 and Film 2












(Right)  Southern Electric - New rolling stock for the Waterloo & City Line

I'm sure they were green at the time I was using them!  But it turns out they were probably dark blue!  The seats inside were raised at each end of the coach, note the high shallow windows, presumably to clear the bogies that seem to be housed in the bodywork.


3:10 pm

Get on the unique train (right). 



This line was and still is, the only tube line that is self contained, with no connection to the rest of the system "Underground" Rail system.

These Bulleid designed trains, the second type on the line, dated from 1940 and were also unique.

Owned by, at first the LSWR then the Southern Railway, followed by BR and then transferred to TFL. 



 

This is at Bank Station

3:27 pm

Arrive at Waterloo Station.  Time to head for the stairs to the main station to meet my cousin!


I wonder how his journey has gone?

https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv4/pg21/class-487-british-rail-blue-wiki.jpg
A Class 487 British Railways EMU, apparently.This is a blue colour but definitely has a green tinge - hence my recollection.
All 3 of the above photos were taken at Waterloo Station.  You can just see the carriage sidings in the distance (see above left)

Meanwhile, on the other side of London, after a slightly later end of school......

2:13 pm

I can well remember the butterfly feeling in my stomach on the last day of the school summer term when walking, or even jogging, home in anticipation of catching the train from Berrylands to meet you at Waterloo.

Me too!

I believe I left Junior school at about 3.30 pm in those days (but we have now established we had an early end of day on the last day of term so all subsequent times remembered originally have been updated accordingly) and would have trotted down Grand Avenue to 27 Rose Walk, which I suppose might have taken about 20 minutes.  And 20 minutes only because I certainly wouldn’t be taking the usual route by the wooded stream and messing about with mud, sticks or swinging on ropes with school buddies on a day like this; the last day of term.  


2:31 pm

In my mind, it would have been a sunny afternoon.  Isn’t it always when looking back?

Yes - I can actually remember the weather on the day of the journey to meet you described above and it was hot and sunny!

I would have dashed indoors, grabbed my pre-packed, young man-sized, suit-case and....


2:39 pm

 .....headed round to Berrylands station ‘tout (de) suite’. 


2:42 pm

I suppose it must have been about a quarter to 3 by then; under the railway arch, up all those steps which I often used to count (about 38), buy a half single to Waterloo (remembering to be polite to Ticket Office Clerk who could be a bit prickly....I once jokingly said to him, 'Single to Waterloo, please...chop chop! ...and he ticked me off for being cheeky!) and out onto the tarmaced wooden platform.

I remember that from going up to the platform when I was visiting you for a weekend. Do you remember the echoing sound our feet made tramping up the steps within the canopy?


2:47 pm

The platform and buildings, being predominantly of timber, gave off that wood-treatment aroma which occurs under gentle heat. Had I missed the train? I’m guessing it would have been due about 2:55 pm.

Whilst I waited, this (below) came thundering through - en route to Waterloo.

https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv2/pg21/Berrylands_edited-1.jpg
Merchant Navy class pacific No. 35013 Blue Funnel on a West Country express, thunders through Berrylands station,rattling the timber construction of this little station perched precariously on an embankment (N.B. train-spotters on the platform!)
30934 running through Berrylands at 5:59 pm on the 17th August 1962
Not a 4 Sub nor in Southern Railway Green, but Waterloo bound.
(Note the wooden plank platforms)
At the platform end.  Always thought it rather inexpensive to trespass.  
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv2/pg21/Southern%20Region%20Luggage%20Ticket%201935.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv2/pg21/Surbiton%20Lagoon.JPG
This must have been a bit of an attraction to have tickets that covered your train journey and entry to the lagoon!
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv2/pg21/Berrylands.jpg
 Looking west from the down platform in 2010 and how it's changed!
The wooden planking has been overlaid and new signal gantry and train time indicators installed.
It illustrates how far down the line you can see.
Berrylands today....interesting how the signals on new overall signal gantry are now for the up line instead of the down line as they used to be at that point.












Neither of these tickets (left and centre) are from "our" era - the luggage label is from March 1935 (!) and the platform ticket is from December 1975.  But the newly found one (right) above is!
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv3/pg21/Southern%20Region%20Schools%20class%204-4-0%20No.%2030927%20Clifton.jpg
Southern Region 'Schools' class 4-4-0 No. 30927 Clifton in charge of the 12.00 o'clock Waterloo to Lymington Pier, Isle of Wight boat express
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv3/pg21/A%20Nelson%20In%20Full%20Flight%20-%2030856.jpg
Southern Region 'Lord Nelson' class 4-6-0 No. 30856 Lord St. Vincent passing Berrylands, well into its stride with a summer extra for the Bournemouth line
A Nelson In Full Flight – Taken on June 17, 1961.   30856 was a regular performer up to its withdrawal in September 1962.  It was scrapped at Eastleigh works in November 1962 together with 30861 and 30862 the last three Nelsons together.  The fireman has just added a shovelful into the firebox as seen by the burst of fresh smoke from the chimney.  Firing a Nelson required a greater degree of skill than normal as the long fire box grate was flat from behing the door, up to the rear driving wheel axle from where it dropped forward under the brick arch.  The fireman had to ensure that this grate area over the rear driving wheel remained covered as the fire would quickly slip away under the brick arch exposing the fire-bars.  It was a tricky throw with the shovel as misplaced shovelfulls could land on top of the brick arch choking the rear tube plate.  These were primarily the reasons that Nelsons, in their early days, acquired a reputation for poor steaming as pressure fell rapidly away to the dismay of an inexperienced fireman.
Southern Region Feltham based Urie 'S15' 4-6-0 No. 30515 gets a summer-time run out on the main line, working a semi-fast from Waterloo to Basingstoke, passing Berrylands
Southern Region N15 'King Arthur' class 4-6-0 No. 30777 Sir Lamiel
Berrylands station 17 June 1961.  'Sir Lamiel' heads towards the London suburbs, his headcode indicating that he is booked light engine working to Nine Elms loco, possibly after an unbalanced working from Feltham where he was based for a short period after transfer from the Eastern section?
Out of interest, the picture of Sir Lamiel 30777 (wasn't that the Triang model?) shows the engine at the exact spot where a goods train wagon became partially derailed in the early 60s. The train carried on all the way to Surbiton before the guard managed to stop the train. I recall the derailed wagon wheel flange had cut into the centre of every sleeper for the whole distance and the evidence remained present for many years afterwards. 
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv4/pg21/Berrylands%2034001.jpg
West Country Class 34001 Exeter passing through Berrylands en route for Bournemouth
https://sites.google.com/site/cliveandtrevorv4/pg21/Berrylands%2035027.jpg
Merchant Navy Class 35027 Port Line with the Bournemouth Bellealso at Berrylands Station on its way to Bournemouth Central!
A misty winter's day finds a lone schoolboy trainspotter at Berrylands station,with its wooden platforms and station buildings. noting down the details ofun-rebuilt Bulleid 'West Country' 4-6-2 34012 'Launceston' of Nine Elms shedas she effortlessly speeds through on the up fast in the mid to late 1950s,before rebuilding beckoned in January 1958.
The mixed six-coach rake is an easy task for Salisbury (70E) shed's Bulleid'West Country' light Pacific 34108 'Wincanton' at speedheading between the wooden platforms at Berrylandswith possibly a Salisbury to Waterloo semi-fast or stock transfer move in late-1964.
Bulleid Pacific No 35027 PORT LINE rushes through a frosty Berrylands Station with its set of beautiful Pullman carriages on the down Bournemouth Belle
View from the footplate near Berrylands

Berrylands station, opened in October 1933 and constructed with wooden platforms, was built to serve new housing developments and the cost of the station was financed by the local developers as a marketing ploy to attract London commuters to the area. Hersham station, further west along the L&SWR main line was also built in a similar style and for the same reason. 

I'd forgotten how flipping impressive these things are when running at or near their maximum speeds pulling a full load!

No wonder we enjoyed watching them pass through Berrylands at full pelt/tilt.  They move around a bit as well!

Quite a few shots taken at Brockenhurst and possibly Christchurch in that collection. Watching those engines pitch and sway, what still fascinates me is how 1" of flange on the wheels can keep 100 tons of steel and water on the rails whilst moving at 70 odd mph.

I guess it was highly dependant on regular track maintenance.  Any sharp curve or gradient change would have led to derailment.

Steam Trains at Speed.mp4

2:54 pm

If you can remember, you could see down the quadruple track towards Surbiton for over a mile before it curved away in the cutting and any approaching train would slowly grow like a shadowy individual worm from around the corner before straightening out and heading closer. Good, here it was!

 Do you remember how the Bulleid 4 sub emus used to rock from side to side like a baby’s cradle? I can imagine it now, a sort of slothful lumbering motion that only those units demonstrated. On reflection I think Mr Bulleid must have overlooked the need for lateral shock absorbers on them.  Later British Rail similar emus sported shock absorbers set outside between the bogie and the coach frame presumably to stop the swaying motion. 

SR EMU.mp4

2:56 pm

Anyway, once onboard…with suit-case…the 4 sub would set off with a groan towards New Malden.  I’m afraid I still remember the station sequence due to having made the journey so frequently and thus after New Malden, it would be Raynes Park with the strange off-set platform arrangement, Wimbledon with its gloomy, multi-girdered, wide over-bridge, then up and over the fast lines on the fly-over through to Earlsfield, then Clapham Junction; leaning awkwardly to the curve, Vauxhall and finally sweeping round the reverse curves into Waterloo.

Some interesting stuff on the box and track layout, etc. here 

3:29 pm

Past the distinctive white Deco signal box, over the girder bridge and then it would be a lurch and hard right swing over the points usually into platform 1. The echoes of Waterloo come to mind as I step off the train and stumble with suitcase past the gnarled, slightly bristly-faced ticket collector with roll-up in his mouth and on through the platform gates.