SUESCA CLIMBING HISTORY

Rock climbing at the Suesca Cliffs began with the pioneer of climbing and mountaineering in Colombia, Mr. Erwin Kraus. 

Around 1938, before departing for Nevado del Huila to make its first ascent, he completed three training climbs accompanied by his rope partners Enrique Drees and Heriberto Hublitz. It is believed that Libro Negro ("Black Book") was the first route established in Suesca.

Several years later, during the 1970s, young climbers Gonzalo Ospina and Alberto Castro made the first attempts at rock climbing in an area called Sindamanoy, on the road to Suesca. After discovering the Suesca cliffs, they began practicing and promoting climbing in the region.

In 1976, through Humbert Frank, climbers met Cristóbal Szafransky, who was invited to teach mountaineering courses in all its disciplines, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and high-altitude mountaineering. Climbers initially ascended crack systems wearing rigid boots and using rudimentary homemade equipment such as stone chocks, wooden wedges, knots, railroad spikes, unclassified ropes, steel carabiners, and whatever else their imagination could provide. Gonzalo Ospina and Alberto Castro also used and developed much of this equipment on their own.

In 1977, after returning from a trip abroad, Felipe Errazuriz introduced Colombia’s first set of climbing protection devices (hexentrics and stoppers) as well as the first pair of EB climbing shoes. He established the country's first 5.8-rated route, which he named Puños ("Fists"). Along with Sueños de un Seductor ("Dreams of a gigolo"), it represented the highest level of difficulty achieved in Colombia at that time.

By 1979, the Suesca Cliffs began receiving more visitors, and additional climbing courses were offered. This helped train a new generation of climbers who, through determination and patience, opened many more routes and laid the foundations for what would become the Suesca we know today.

As climbing gained popularity, several climbing clubs were established, including Club El Escalador. By then, climbing equipment could be imported by special order, and homemade gear gradually disappeared. In 1980, one of these new climbers obtained a book titled Climbing in Yosemite, which inspired dreams of expanding climbing horizons. Thanks to Marcelo Arbelaez, who fulfilled that dream, valuable experience was brought back to Colombia, leading to the development of new routes in the "Park" and providing the knowledge needed to undertake ambitious projects such as the big walls of the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy.

In 1984, Swiss climbing guide Daniel Anker demonstrated the outdoor climbing potential of the Suesca Cliffs and established the first sport climbing route, named Nueva Era ("New Era"). During this period, many routes that had originally been climbed using aid techniques were freed, and both sport climbing and traditional/adventure climbing advanced significantly in difficulty. The use of permanent protection bolts also began.

In the early 1990s, sport climbing experienced a major boom with the discovery of challenging sport climbing routes in the Valley of the Falcons (Valle de los Halcones). Climbers such as Aldo Brando and Cristóbal von Rothkirch began the work of protecting routes that are still climbed there today. Later, Juan Carlos González, Roberto Ariano, and Fernando González-Rubio continued developing new routes in the area.

Further progress came with the arrival of many Venezuelan climbers who traveled to Suesca to practice crack climbing. During their visits, they established new routes and paved the way for Colombian climbers who later returned from international trips inspired to begin climbing overhanging routes.

With the rise of artificial wall competitions, an exchange program was established with the French Federation of Mountain and Climbing Sports. For three consecutive years, instructors such as Guilles Bernigolle, Frank Scherrer, and Pierre Grange visited Colombia, providing training courses for climbers and helping create the conditions that led to the ascent of Colombia's first 5.13 route, "HI TEC".

Today, new visitors can experience these cliffs through our Guided Rock Climbing programs and Many of the classic routes discussed here are used during our Traditional Climbing Courses. 

By Sebastian Mejia

Sources: guidebook "Escaladas en Suesca y El Valle de Los Halcones" First Edition – Grace Andrea Montoya and Andrés Bonilla, 1998