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Cleaning & Retreating Rain Jacket Tip
Cleaning & Retreating Rain Jacket Tip
Handy Publications - by Ryan O'Grady
Gear Tip: Cleaning and re-treating your rain jacket. This is something which is important to be familiar with in order to get the best performance out of a jacket for several years. Some people refrain from doing this if they're worried about potentially compromising the jacket's water repellency, but with the right products this should not be an issue. Moreover, leaving a jacket in a dirty state for an extended period of time is far more detrimental.
I personally use a combination of Nikwax Tech Wash and Earth Sea Sky's Gecko Guard and I am consistently happy with the results I get. Nikwax Tech Wash is a detergent specifically for washing waterproof, breathable clothing (and it also works well for outdoor clothing in general). It has a funny smell, but this goes away shortly after washing, and overall it works really well. It's important to use a detergent like this because some regular supermarket detergents have extra additives, such as frangrances and softeners, which can leave residues embedded within fabrics, and when cleaning waterproofs it is important for the fibres to be as clean as possible, otherwise the breathable nature of the jacket can be affected.
Once I've done a wash cycle with the Nikwax Tech Wash, I then run a second cycle with no detergent, simply to give the jacket a thorough rinse.
After the jacket has dried, I then apply Earth Sea Sky Gecko Guard spray. This stuff works really well, but only if the material is properly clean. What it does is re-apply the water-repelling treatment to the outer layer of material on the jacket. This is done in the factory on all good rain jackets, but it wears off over time. This outer layer repellency is arguably more important than the waterproof membrane alone. Water-repellent surfaces cause water to bead up into droplets and roll off the surface, which in effect keeps the surface mostly dry. Only if the surface has this water-repelling property can it allow the jacket to breathe properly. Without it, the outer surface becomes soaked through, and moisture from your skin can no longer evaporate out through the layers of the jacket. This causes your perspiration to stay against your skin, giving you the cold, wet feeling inside your jacket. This doesn't mean your jacket has stopped working, it just means you need to improve the jacket's water-repellency next time you clean it. Getting your jacket dirty greatly reduces its ability to repel water, so it is important to care for it on a regular basis if it has seen lots of use.
Gecko Guard is sprayed in a sweeping motion all over the jacket. It also has a funny smell so it is best to do this outside on a non-windy day. The jacket then gets left to dry for a day before it is ready to store or use. The great thing about Gecko Guard is it can be applied to all kinds of fabrics to give them some water-repellency, and the Nikwax Tech Wash is ideal for pre-cleaning most things.
To simplify, here's my formula:
1. Wash cycle with Nikwax Tech Wash on cold
2. Wash cycle with no detergent (rinse only)
3. Let jacket fully dry
4. Apply Gecko Guard methodically all over
5. Let fully dry again
6. Store jacket rolled up and keep clean
Imagery Tip
Imagery Tip
Handy Publications - by Ryan O'Grady
If you're ever looking at aerial imagery to find out about the terrain in an area, Google Satellite View is probably your go-to.
There is another option, however: LINZ Basemaps. This is the official NZ aerial imagery database and it can be used just like google maps. The main weaknesses of google imagery are low resolution in unpopulated areas, and infrequent updates leading to the imagery that is out-of-date. Most of the LINZ imagery is from within the last couple of years, and the higher resolution means it gives a better look at the terrain conditions.
For this reason, it is also preferable as a source of imagery for those in IMT.
Google
Google
LINZ Basemaps
LINZ Basemaps
Admin Tip
Admin Tip
Handy Publications - by Ryan O'Grady
As you do more courses and gain exposure to various subjects you will develop a collection of reference materials and manuals to refer to. There are many out there, and they aren't always easy to find if you haven't been given them. If you don't yet have much, these four are a good starting point. They can all be downloaded as PDF files, or if you're lucky, obtained as hard copies. Even experienced people can learn from these, whether by refreshing the memory or by revealing previously overlooked details.
The MSC Bushcraft manual (266 pages)
https://www.mountainsafety.org.nz/.../bushcraft-manual/
Was updated last year, replacing the previous edition from 2011. For decades this manual has been the backbone of outdoor training courses and provides the basis for numerous skills. Unlike previous versions, this manual is no longer published in hard copy format.
The Topo 50 Map Reading Guide (36 pages)
https://www.linz.govt.nz/land/maps/topographic-maps
This is a very good resource for those who need more knowledge on using maps, since it was written by the people who make them. It is the official reference guide to accompany the national topo map series. It is not well known, since LINZ don't seem to advertise it, and it is buried in among other things on their website.
The LandSAR Outdoor First Aid Manual (226 pages)
https://www.landsar.org.nz/safety.../medical-advisories/
This is a new publication released last year, and it is intended as the official guide book for all outdoor first aid situations. It effectively replaces the same title from MSC, the last edition of which was in 2012. This manual also forms the backbone of the revised LandSAR first aid course material, and has been created with extensive input from the LandSAR Medical Advisory Board.
The LandSAR Field Guide (82 pages)
https://www.landsar.org.nz/.../field-guides-and-other-info/
This has been a well known reference for many years, and covers all aspects of search & rescue knowledge and skills. Many SAREXes and trainings get assessed according to the contents of this publication. The currently in use edition of the Field Guide was published in 2010, though a new edition has now been released for 2021 which is starting to roll out across the country, and will become the standard reference when it becomes fully available. The hard copy format of the 2021 edition is an A6-sized flip book, making it more practical to carry in the field than the 2010 edition.
Beyond these four manuals, there is a whole range of others. It is best that you receive these directly from tutors on a course however, since they are intended to accompany what you learn in practical trainings. For example, you can get reference publications for swift water awareness, stretcher & rope management, investigative interviewing, CIMS, avalanche awareness, outdoor risk management etc.
GPS Tip
GPS Tip
Software Updates - by Ryan O'Grady
When did you last update the software on your GPS?
Possibly quite a while ago. It isn't widely known, but this is important to do, and more frequently than you might think. Garmin is constantly bringing out free updates for the maps on their devices, and over time these changes become more important to keep up with as buildings come and go, tracks and huts change location, new roads are constructed and other details are added.
Equally important is another factor - start-up times.
You might have noticed that sometimes your GPS takes ages to find its position and connect with satellites - even 2 or 3 minutes - after turning it on. If your software is up to date, this should be reduced to around 20 seconds.
Why?
Because of data called Extended Prediction Orbit files (EPO). These files are updated when you sync your GPS with your computer, and they essentially tell your device where in the sky each satellite will be at any time of day relative to your general area, allowing it to lock onto those satellites much more quickly. These EPO files are only accurate for about two weeks before they need to be updated, since satellite orbit paths are constantly shifting around the earth and different satellites will be visible in your area at different times. To clarify, your device will still work if it isn't up to date, but it will be slower. If you're ready to begin a tasking or a hike, waiting 2 or 3 minutes for it to start recording your position can be irritating.
How do you update your Garmin GPS? By downloading a free service called Garmin Express. Once loaded, you simply plug in the device and Garmin Express tells you if any updates are available for your GPS.
Gear Tip
Gear Tip
Callout Checklist - by Ryan O'Grady
I recommend making a personalised gear checklist to refer to when packing for callouts and SAREXes. When packing in a hurry we are all prone to overlooking things, and nobody wants to set out on a tasking and then realise they don't have something. By following this list I made, I have not forgotten anything important in the outdoors for a while now. It gives peace of mind knowing that if I've gone over this list I can rest assured that I haven't missed something. The key here is that I don't usually carry every single item on this list - rather, I simply run through it and pick out all the things which are relevant for the area/situation in question. I have similar packing lists for recreational trips as well - one for overnight trips and one for day trips.
Gear organisation and admin is one of the main elements of professionalism which should distinguish a LandSAR member from any other tramper. Making sure we always have the right gear on hand and ensuring that it will not fail us is part of why we can be called to help the Police and other agencies.
GPS Tip
GPS Tip
What satellite system should I use? - by Ryan O'Grady
GPS Tip: What satellite system should I use? You may have looked at the settings in your Garmin and come across the option for different satellite systems. You may have wondered what they are, why there are different ones, and which ones you should use.
Garmin GPS devices give you the option between satellite systems called GPS, GLONASS, and GALILEO. Older models just have the first two of these, and the newest models offer all three.
GPS, as it's known, is the American navigation satellite system. Its official name is Navstar, but it is almost always referred to by the generic name GPS. It stands for Global Positioning System, and it was the world's first functional satellite network made for global navigation. It was first set up in the mid 1980s and grew from there. It's operated by the U.S. Space Force. Public accuracy of GPS is around 3 to 5 metres. Public GPS signals were once upon a time deliberately made less accurate by the US Department of Defense whilst reserving more accurate data for encrypted military use, to prevent enemy use of the system against U.S. forces. This practice ended a couple of decades ago and different security methods were used in order to allow the system to become a truly viable tool for the civilian world. The GPS system currently has 31 satellites in orbit - the most of any system.
GLONASS is the Russian system. The name is short for GLObal NAvigation Satellite System. It was developed a few years after the American system and functions in much the same way. It came about in the 1990s and took a few years of ups and downs before becoming a fully functioning global system. It is generally accurate for the public from 3 to 7 metres. Like the American system, it was originally developed for the military. It is operated by Roscosmos, the Russian version of NASA. GLONASS currently has 24 satellites in orbit.
GALILEO is the newest system on the block. It was developed by the European Union and is managed by the European Space Agency. It only reached full operational capacity a couple of years ago. GALILEO was set up primarily as a civilian system as opposed to one for military operations. It enables Europe and other users around the world to be less reliant on the American and Russian militaries for satellite services. As well as being the newest available system, GALILEO is also the most accurate, with location data to the nearest metre in the right conditions. The encrypted version of this system is potentially accurate down to the nearest centimetre. GALILEO has 26 satellites in orbit.
The minimum number of satellites for any network to be truly global is 24. This number, when distributed across different orbital paths, means that unless obstructed by ground features, any point on Earth will always have a direct line of sight to at least four satellites in the network. Four satellites are required in order to establish your accurate three-dimensional location on Earth's surface. Ideally, your device will always receive signals from several more than this, unless you are in steep terrain or surrounded by high features.
In Garmin devices, you can choose to just use the American GPS system on its own, or you can choose a combination of GPS+GLONASS or GPS+GALILEO. The reasons for this are primarily the fact that more satellite signals = better accuracy and reliability, and because each system has unique strengths.
Using two systems together will slightly increase battery consumption, though not by a large degree. If your device is connecting to lots of satellites from just GPS, then you can consider switching to just using that system. This is where the satellite page on your Garmin is helpful - it shows how many satellites your device has connected with, as well as where they are in the sky relative to you (this is something that's good to demonstrate in a field exercise one day). If they are all grouped in one small area, or if there aren't many showing, then this is a time to set your device for two systems together in order to maximise the number of satellites your device can see. For us, the mountain environment means it is usually best to have the device set for two systems, since forests and steep terrain obscure satellites toward the horizon.
GPS can be considered the most reliable system, with the largest number of satellites in orbit and the most widespread use around the world. Quite often, the GPS system is more than enough on its own to continually provide good coverage, since it has the most satellites in its network.
GLONASS is sometimes more effective in mountainous environments, and it is also more reliable the closer you get to the north/south poles, specifically anywhere close to, or beyond, the 50th parallel of latitude. This is because Russia lies almost entirely north of the 50th northern parallel, and as such they designed their system to privide good coverage for the polar regions. Conversely, this means for us in NZ where we are relatively close to the 50th southern parallel, GPS combined with GLONASS can be more effective than GPS on its own, which is designed more to favour the central latitudes where most of Earth's population lives.
GALILEO, on the other hand, whilst still gaining full reliability as it establishes itself, is more effective if you are in an urban environment. The orbit altitudes of these satellites are slightly better suited to provide coverage in between tall buildings and infrastructure. As noted earlier, this system is only visible on the current versions of Garmins. It will become a lot more effective as a third option in the coming years.
As an additional note, there is another option too - 'Demo Mode'. Think of this as the Garmin version of flight mode on your phone. It allows you to have the device switched on, but without connecting to satellites. You should always switch to this mode if you want to play around with the device at home and look through the settings, as this will greatly reduce its battery consumption, since connecting to satellites is the thing that chews through the most power. Every time you turn the device back on, it defaults back to the previous satellite setting it had, so there's no need to worry about forgetting to turn the connection back on if you've used demo mode.
If all of that seems like a bit much to remember, just think about the ideal conditions for each option:
In the mountains: GPS+GLONASS
In a city among tall buildings: GPS+GALILEO
In a flat open landscape with wide view of sky: GPS only
If you're looking for these settings, the location is Menu > System > Setup
I hope you can look at the settings now and at least feel that you have an understanding of why there are different options and when you might change them.
Gear Tip
Gear Tip
Clothing Layering - by Ryan O'Grady
Nothing revolutionary here - more just an overview for anyone who is thinking about what they need.
"There is no bad weather; only bad clothing." - If someone is complaining about the conditions, they're really complaining about their clothing choice...
There are 3 clothing layer types: Baselayer (Next to Skin), Midlayer (Insulation), Outer Layer (Protective Shell)
Baselayer
Its primary function is to wick moisture away from the skin and keep you dry. The base layer is not there for warmth. Rather, it is the foundation for creating warmth in conjunction with your other layers. Only if the skin is kept dry can it remain warm in the outdoors, since even a slight breeze can chill the moisture around you and drop your temperature. Think of a baselayer as a second skin - one which minimises the phenomenon of sweating.
Baselayers need to be quick drying and breathable. Basically, they absorb the moisture off your skin, then evaporate it via your body heat. That way, you don't get that cold sweat feeling (except when you take your pack off and your back feels ice cold because that area can't breathe so well).
Polyester is suitable for high intensity activity, such as up a mountain when you are gaining 1000 metres in very a short time and you're puffing hard but still need a layering system to stay at the right temperature. Any time you're likely to sweat more, polyester is ideal since it dries more quickly than merino. Accordingly, it also goes well in the warmer months.
Merino is best for pretty much any other activity where you're not working quite as hard. For most of the time whilst hiking, merino is hard to beat. It breathes well, gives an added bit of warmth, is highly absorbent and always remains comfortable against the skin. It is nature's own time-tested solution, after all. Merino baselayers also come in a range of material weights from thin and light to thick and heavy, so they can be fine tuned to your conditions. They even work well for several days of use before washing, whereas polyester can start feeling very clammy after a couple days of use.
There are also fleece tops that work as baselayers, and they are great to have. I find, though, they are best as a second base layer over a merino or polyester next-to-skin layer. That way the fleece is most effective at trapping heat. Like merino, it also comes in a range of material weights for versatility.
Mid Layer
This is where you trap all of your warmth, and these are your most versatile clothing pieces. Often these are all you need as an outer layer as well, especially if they have a wind-resistant face material. Insulating layers mostly boil down to four types - down, synthetic, merino and fleece. If you've got a fair bit of outdoor gear, you probably have all of them.
A heavy weight merino layer is a good all rounder for comfort, warmth and ease of care. It's best for less strenuous times of day, since wool loves to absorb moisture, which is fine since wool stays warm when wet, but it takes a while to dry out. For normal walking or relaxing at a campsite it goes well.
Fleece really is brilliant as far as midlayers go. It is toasty warm, almost non-absorbent, and dead easy to care for. A good quality fleece can be pulled out of the washing machine and worn straight away. It lends itself to all times of day, and is much more durable than merino, down or synthetic fill jackets. There's a range of fleece types out there too. I really like Polartec Alpha and Polartec Power Grid. Alpha is amazing for making you warm in a surprisingly compact jacket, and Power Grid is a good lightweight layer to add an extra bit of substance if you need several layers at once.
Down and synthetic you already know about and I've already written about. Done.
Outer Shell Layer
Rain Jacket - this will keep you warm just as much as a thick mid layer. Wind and rain will suck all the warmth out of that mid layer unless it is protected by an outer shell layer. The trick when wearing an outer shell is to wear just the right amount underneath. Too little, and you'll start feeling cold; too much, and you can quickly begin sweating. Modern rain jackets do breathe, but the membrane still restricts this somewhat, simply because it's very difficult to create a shell which blocks wind and rain whilst letting perspiration flow through it. Remember though, it wasn't long ago that PVC raincoats were the best solution...
Windbreaker - your outer shell for when the weather is dry but you still want to escape that awful breeze. Usually very light weight, and ideal for shorter trips or static outdoor activities like rock climbing. Again, in the right conditions, they will do just as much for your warmth as any insulating layer. Usually, a windbreaker is a nylon jacket. Sometimes, a lightweight, uninsulated softshell can serve as a good windbreaker.
Softshell - I find most softshells of limited use in the wilderness. They're largely redundant - especially the fleece lined ones - when you're also carrying a rain jacket and a few midlayer tops with you. A softshell is ideal for sport, travel and urban commuting when you need something to take the edge off during short periods on gloomy days, but in the outdoors proper, a range of separate clothing layers are more versatile and adaptable. Remember - a softshell is only water resistant up to a point, after which they just get soaked through (their main focus is wind resistance, something already covered by your rain jacket), and they basically serve as a compromise between weather resistance and comfort for everyday use. They tend to be bulkier than other options, meaning they aren't always great for layering (or packing). There are some that work well, and as with everything, they have their ideal environment and not-so-ideal one.
Going beyond just the purpose of each clothing item, also think about layered features. If every layer you wear has a full front zip, they can become quite bulky and irritating together. Likewise with hoods - lots of tops have them, but really you don't want more than two hooded layers on at once, otherwise you end up with a big wad of material flopping around your head.
If you wear a down jacket or rain jacket and only have a baselayer underneath, make it a long sleeve base layer. Two reasons: one is that the material of down and rain jackets often feels cold to the touch, and the base layer acts as an effective inter-layer to take the edge off, keeping your skin feeling comfortable. The second is that you want to keep your down and rain jackets as clean as possible. Wearing them directly on skin causes sweat and oils to build up in the material, reducing their effectiveness and requiring delicate wash cycles more often. When I wear these items, I also like to wear a buff around the neck, because this area generates a lot of skin oils which can rub into the collar of jackets. A buff or neck warmer is also one of the most highly effective ways to feel warmer quickly. Lots of blood flows through the neck, and by insulating it, you preserve a lot more heat that would otherwise get lost.
When it comes to the legs, the same principles apply, to some degree. Because the leg muscles put out a lot of heat, we generally don't need as much insulation for this area as for the torso. Thermal leggings are essential for all overnight trips, but beyond that it's up to your discretion. With the legs, quite often less is more. They normally get wet anyway, what with river crossings and long tussock and all, so keeping it minimal can be a better approach to allow quick drying and ventilation. Overtrousers, wind pants, fleece pants and so on - they depend on where you're going, or how cold you normally feel.
There is no such thing as the perfect get up for a whole day's hiking. No shame in stopping to drop or add a layer if it means you stay at an optimal temperature. Remember, just because there are three types of clothing layer, doesn't mean you should always aim to wear three layers. Often the conditions will call for two or three baselayers or a couple of jackets. The more layers you have, the more you can fine tune your warmth level. It doesn't need to be a large pile of stuff - just a few well thought out pieces that complement one another.
Gear Tip
Gear Tip
Topo Maps - by Ryan O'Grady
First up, a tip for organising your topo maps - it turns out the standard sistema lunchbox is perfectly sized for maps, and one container can hold 20 of them.
Gear Tip
Gear Tip
First Aid Kits - by Ryan O'Grady
Gear Tip: When it comes to pre-packed kits, i.e. first aid and emergency kits, it is easy to neglect their contents and forget what's in them, since it can be tedious unpacking and repacking everything.
Taking a photo of everything the next time you pack them means you can refer back to what's in them any time, and consider if anything needs replacing/upgrading. Additionally, doing this means it is easy to remember what was in your kits if you use or lose any of their contents in the field.
Gear Tip
Gear Tip
Gas Canisters - by Ryan O'Grady
There are all sorts you can learn about these, and it can be interesting. Here's a few things worth knowing.
Whilst some people use more specialised (read: expensive) stoves with reusable fuel bottles, many of us have the single use screw-on canister variety. Lots of brands sell them, and aside from the labelling, they always look the same. Why? Because most of the time, they are. The materials and construction of screw-on valve style gas canisters is specified by a European standard called EN417. You'll probably find this written on your canisters. This means you can rest assured your canisters are safe and of very good quality. This standard does not specify the actual screw-on valve, but the reality is that any common brand of canister available in NZ will have exactly the same type of threaded valve (see photo), because this valve design is perfect for these canisters, and it has become such an established format that it benefits all brands and customers in the name of consistency. This means that any EN417 canister should be interchangeable, and can screw onto any screw-on backcountry stove. MSR, Jetboil, Primus, Kovea, Gasmate, Campmaster and others all sell screw-on canisters, and they all use exactly the same threaded B188 lindal valve. If in doubt, these valves can be easily recognised and visually compared.
Why do all canisters look exactly the same in every other aspect as well? Because of globalised manufacturing. There's a good bet that the canister in your cupboard was made in Korea. Pretty much every brand of gas canister you can think of was made by the same people, in a factory located in South Korea, operated by the Taeyang Industrial Co. This one company has around 70% of the global market share in portable gas canisters. In the name of efficiency and cost effectiveness, all the outdoor brands get their cans made there. That's why every brand looks identical - they are the same thing, only stamped with different colours and filled with slight variations of fuel mixture.
Speaking of the fuel inside them, what is it and does it matter what we buy? Your average screw-on canister contains a mixture of two fuels - butane and propane, generally in the form of around 80% butane/20% propane. This is the optimal fuel for the backcountry. Here's why. Butane is a good, cheap fuel which burns well in normal conditions making it ideal for everyday use. However, it has a boiling point of -1°C. In alpine conditions, it won't burn, because the liquid isn't warm enough to vapourise for combustion. For this reason, numerous brands instead use a similar fuel called Iso-Butane, which is a modified form of the same fuel, and this has a boiling point of -12°C. Obviously, this is much better for year-round outdoor cooking, since it will continue to vapourise and combust down to several degrees below zero. However, for true reliable performance, we need something even better. This is where propane comes in. It has a boiling point of -42°C.
Wherever you go, whatever you do, it will be right there burning for you...
Why not keep it simple and just use pure propane? Because you can have too much of a good thing. Being such a strong evaporator, propane creates very high gas pressure inside the canister, and the warmer it gets outside, the more that propane just wants to escape and be free. If you filled a standard screw-on canister with pure propane and put it in your pack on a hot summer's day, it may well explode. If you've ever used an actual pure propane canister, you'll note they are heavier. That's because they have stronger walls to hold all of that gas pressure. Because of this, the canisters we use generally only have about 20% propane - enough to boost your burning performance, without introducing new drawbacks.
So as you can see, an Iso-Butane and Propane blend combines the best of practicality and performance.
When camping on really cold nights, you'll want the canister to be warm before you begin using it. Some people have it in their sleeping bag overnight, especially if they also enjoy such things as stepping on lego. Other people put it under their jacket for a few minutes after they get up. By getting the canister warm, it maximises the gas pressure inside, so that when you open the valve to start cooking, there's a good strong flow of combustible vapour. It's also important because if your canister is cold, you run the risk of just burning all of the propane content and ending up with a can full of butane. Occasionally cupping your hands on the canister during cooking will also help keep the fuel warm, since it tends to get colder whilst it is being used. When the valve is opened, the fuel is literally sucking warmth out of its surroundings in order to continue evaporating (an endothermic reaction), which causes moisture to form on the outside walls when the air around them cools down causing ambient water vapour to condense into droplets. This condensation can freeze on frosty mornings, reducing your burner's performance. When cooking on the snow, try to keep a gap between the ice and the canister as well. This will avoid a rapid drop in gas temperature. Remember: cold fuel doesn't burn well.
There are accessories out there for measuring how much fuel is left in a canister, and there are even special transfer valves allowing you to top up gas canisters by feeding the last remaining gas from an old canister into a newer one. Proceed as you may. For most of us, however, we are left with empty ones that we often wonder what to do with. Being a fairly basic metal container, they are recyclable. Before tossing them out, though, they need to be totally empty and punctured. Until a few years ago, there wasn't any specific way to do this, but Jetboil eventually brought out a specific tool called the "Crunch It". It's still the main option out there for safely disposing of old canisters. These are available everywhere, including Macpac, Bivouac, Torpedo7 and so on. I recommend them.
Finally, another tip worth knowing is if you're ever going to fly with the Defence Force, be they Navy or Air Force, keep your canister near the top of your pack where you can easily pull it out. Defence helicopter crews usually insist that all fuel containers onboard be handed to the crew before boarding, who then keep them all in one place during flight. Then, if anyone smells a gas leak whilst in the air, the canisters all get tossed overboard without hesitation. I've heard stories of people eating cold de-hy meals on SAROPs because of this. If you think backcountry cuisine beef curry is bad, imagine eating it cold in the rain. Still, at least you didn't die in a helicopter fireball, I guess?
Nav Tip
Nav Tip
Magnetic Variation - by Ryan O'Grady
If you've ever wondered what the magnetic variation is at certain locations around the country, GNS Science produces charts every few years showing what the current declination angle is across NZ, and these figures are constantly shifting over time.
They also produce ones specifically for use with Topo50 maps (See below) due to the fact that topo maps use their own grid system (NZTM2000) with slightly different magnetic variation angles compared to true north. It's worth downloading the current chart of our area to have for reference if you're ever doing a hike in different parts of the South Island.
There's also a good short explainer on the GNS page about local mangetic anomalies in areas with certain rock types, and when you should be more aware of compass needle errors.
Gear Tip
Gear Tip
Down Jackets - by Ryan O'Grady
I think most people are familiar with what makes a good down jacket, but in case anyone isn't, there are a few details to look for.
Every down jacket (and anything else with down) has a loft rating. This measures the fluffiness of the down, which affects how much warmth it can hold. 600 loft is the lowest I would go for a good jacket, though if you have the money and the gear-freak mindset, 800+ is the way to go. The way down gets refined is in a big vertical cylindrical chamber with a fan at the bottom. Piles of down are dropped into the chamber, and depending on how fluffy each piece is, it will float up to a certain level where it is collected and graded. Only the lightest, fluffiest down reaches all the way to the top, and this is put in the most premium clothing. 850 loft is about as good as it gets with down.
Additionally, goose down is better than duck down, again, if your budget permits. Higher loft ratings mean the jacket can be lighter and more compact whilst providing plenty of warmth, because with higher quality down, the jacket needs less of it. Another good feature is when the down has received a hydrophobic treatment in the factory so it doesn't absorb moisture - down's Achilles heel. These treatments often last a long time, even through multiple washes, and they give you confidence to wear down jackets in the mountains, knowing that they will resist the damp, and dry off quickly after a shower.
GPS Tip
GPS Tip
Battery type settings - by Ryan O'Grady
One GPS detail often overlooked is the setting where you tell the unit what type of AA battery you are using in it. Anyone who has been disappointed with the perceived short battery life they get in a GPS may benefit from this. Basically, different battery types have their own unique discharge profiles, with some gradually producing less power until they die, and others giving full power before suddenly dropping off. Telling the unit what type it has inside it means it can give an accurate estimate of how much life each set of batteries has remaining. On the Garmin, this setting is located in Menu - System - Setup - AA Battery Type. I personally find energizer ultimate lithiums to be long lasting.
Gear Tip
Gear Tip
Tampon Fire Starter - by Ryan O'Grady
These things are an ideal way to carry tinder since they're basically a tightly packed chunk of cotton wool wrapped in a plastic cover. They stay dry until unwrapped and they fluff up into a decent amount of material to take a spark
Gear Tip
Gear Tip
Compass Set-up - by Ryan O'Grady
They tend to get used and abused a fair bit, and a lot of the wear they accumulate is purely from being knocked around inside packs. What I do now is keep mine in a purpose-designed compass pouch which permanently stays threaded on the lanyard and is fleece lined to stop the compass getting scratched. They're worth looking into. Also, thinking about the magnetic needle, it's good to keep the compass where there aren't any magnetic objects close by. I hang mine on the side of a bookshelf for this reason.
Finally, another thing that's good to play around with is the lanyard knot. I use a double figure eight bend on mine, which means the size of the loop can be adjusted by sliding the figure eights along the cord. A double fisherman's bend does the same thing.
Gear Tip
Gear Tip
Packing Waterproofs - by Ryan O'Grady
There's nothing complicated about it, but some ways are better than others. Regarding jackets, a good way to keep them tidy and compact is rolling them into their hoods. This prevents everything being a mess in your drybags, and it keeps the jacket clean when not in use.
Additionally, some people make the mistake of zipping the jacket up fully when packing it, which only makes it slower to put on in a hurry when a rain system arrives. Instead, just close it by the domes/velcro and leave the zip undone - this means you can just tear the jacket open and put it on quickly.
For waterproof overtrousers, the best packing method I've found is to roll them up with the side zips fully open, and the zipper being roughly at the mid thigh. The thigh is the widest part of pants, and having the zippers positioned there means you can easily slide your boots through the hole and get the overtrousers on in mere seconds
Admin Tip
Admin Tip
Records - by Ryan O'Grady
Admin tip: With the increasing need to be able to prove our experience in Search & Rescue activities, it is a good idea to maintain a personal record of the things you have done. Over time, the courses, callouts and exercises we do can become difficult to remember in our minds, and we can even forget just how much we have been involved in. These photos show what I do. Every year or so I'll update this list, which details every LandSAR course, callout and SAREX I've been on since I joined, organised by year. I keep this in the back of my competency book in an A5 clear file sleeve. It's a good thing to have alongside your competencies, since part of being competent is also showing that you've done stuff.
GPS Tip
GPS Tip
Labelling your GPS - by Ryan O'Grady
There are a few ways to label your GPS in case it gets lost. Physically marking it is good, but eventually this can wear off. The most effective option is to load a home waypoint. All that means is marking your address as a waypoint, then writing in the comment section how you can be contacted.
Whoever finds the GPS will eventually see it, and with a bit of luck they'll do the right thing. They can then drop it in your letterbox or message you. Additionally, putting a couple of reflective strips on the unit will aid your chances of it being found.
Hut Tip
Hut Tip
Backcountry Hut Pass - by Charolette Aronsen
Something to be aware of if you buy the annual backcountry hut pass - these are now online and you have to apply to get the LandSAR discount (which takes 2-3 days) before purchase.
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