Hair and Makeup Application

The Skin

What is it?

The skin is the body's largest organ. It covers us, head to toe and provides many useful functions to the body:

It acts as the body's first line of defence against external threats (germs, bacteria, scratches, bruises and other harmful things, etc) and can detect infections quickly
It helps keep water in the body and regulate the body's temperature
It reduces the harmful effects of UV radiation on the body from the sun
It actzs as the main sensory organ for the body (so we can feel things)
It produces Vitamin D which is essential for keeping our bodies healthy.

What is it made up of?

The skin is made up of 3 layers:

The Epidermis- The epidermis is the very outside layer of the skin and has an elastic consistency. Because it is constantly subject to wear and tear (washing yourself, rubbing of clothing, scratches or scrapes, general everyday life really!), it is constantly bieng regenerated and replaced. It is made up of:
- - - Keratinocytes- These are the main cells of the Epidermis. After these cells have formed, they gradually move toward the surface of your skin, die and then compact down to form Corneocytes
    - Corneocytes- Corneocytes are flattened Keratinocytes. When lots of Keratinocytes flatten together, they form what is essentially the surface of the skin, but is actually called the Strutum Corneum, or Horny layer. This is the layer of skin that gets the most wear and tear and so is constantly shedding.
    - Melanocytes- Melanocytes produce the pigment melanin, which is what gives skin its colour and protects against radiation from the sun.
The Dermis- The dermis is the inner layer of the skin and is made up of:
- - - Sweat Glands- Sweat glands are responsable for producing sweat. Sweat then travels up through sweat ducts and out through holes in the epidermis called pores. They help the body regulate temperature.
    - Hair follicles- Hair follicles are where the hair begin to grow. hair also help the body to regulate its temperature.
    - Sebaceous glands- Sebaceous Glands produce Seben, a type of oil, that keeps hairs free from bacteria and dust. Sweat and Seben together make up what is called the 'surface film' (a thin layer of moisture across your skin).
The Subcutaneous- The subcutanious is the last layer of the skin and connects the skin to the rest of the body. Its made up of fat and connective tissue and acts as an insulator for the body.

https://www.hse.gov.uk/skin/professional/causes/structure.htm

The Hair

What is it?

Hair is a long strand of protein cells that grows from follicles found in the dermis layer of the skin all over the body, and is primarily found in mammals. Hair is made up of of 2 different structures: the Follicle and the Shaft.

The Hair follicle is found beneath the skin and is where the hair is formed and starts to grow from. The shape of the follicle will ultimately effect the style of hair (Straight, wavy, curly etc)
The Hair Shaft is the hard strand that shows above the surface and when we talk about hair is general, we are usually referring to the Hair Shaft.

What is it made up of?

Looking at a cross-section of the Hair Shaft, it can be separated into three sections: The Cuticle, The Cortex and the Medulla.

The Cuticle- The cuticle is made up of lots layers of thin, flat cells that lay together to form a shell around the outside of each Hair Strand. This shell can expand but is covered in a thin layer of water repellent.
The Cortex- The Cortex contains Keratin (a type of Protein) that's formed in rod-like structures. This is where hair gets its strength from and how hair retains its moisture. The Melanin in hair is also found in the Cortex and is responsible for the hairs colour
The Medulla- The Medulla is the centre of the hair follicle and is unstructured and isn't always there.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hair

Types

So now we know about the Skin and Hair, we need to discover the types of skin and hair.

Healthy skin comes in 5 main categories: Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination (oily and dry) and Sensitive, and is placed into each category depending on various inputs, such as skins sensitivity, hydration and Sebum secretions.

Normal Skin- Normal skin (as its name suggests), is not too oily or too dry and has a consistent texture. It has no or few imperfections and doesn't require special products to maintain.
Dry Skin- Dry skin is usually caused by outside factors, such as products your using, the weather or humidity levels and usually goes away. However, in some cases it stays and can cause issues such as cracked or flaking skin. Having cracked skin can lead to further issues such as infections if not treated properly and cared for correctly so its important to use the correct products for this skin type.
Oily Skin- Oily skin is caused by excess Sebum (oil) secretions in the Dermis layer of the skin and has a bright, porous appearance. It usually has hormonal or genetic causes and is prone in adolescents and young adults. Because of the Excess oil secretions it often can cause acne so using non-comedogenic (wont clog or congest pores) products are best for this skin type.
Combination Skin- Combination skin (as its name suggests) is a combination of skin types (Oily and Dry, Oily and Normal) and occurs because the layout of the Sebaceous glands is more frequent in particular areas, (usually the forehead, Nose and Chin otherwise referred to as the 'T Zone') and makes these areas oilier than others which may be Normal or Dry (usually the Cheeks).
Sensitive Skin- Sensitive skin is more likely to react to substances that other skin types would not react to. This skin is more fragile than other skin because the 'skin barrier' (the Lipid and sweat mix) is damaged or weak, and skin can be red, feel itchy, hot and tight and can be more susceptible to bacteria and infections than other skin types would be. It is also known as irritated skin.

https://www.almirall.com/your-health/your-skin/types-of-skin#:~:text=Based%20on%20these%20characteristics%2C%20there,of%20each%20type%20of%20skin.

https://www.qandaskin.com/blogs/questions-and-answers/what-does-oil-free-mean-in-skincare-and-will-an-oil-free-moisturiser-suit-my-skin-type#:~:text=Those%20with%20oily%2C%20stressed%20and,acne%2C%20breakouts%2C%20and%20blackheads.

Hair comes in 4 main types (Straight, Wavy, Curly and Coily) but each with 4 subtypes to show its density (A, B, C):

Straight hair:
- 1A- very straight, shiny and cant hold curls.
- 1B- Straight and shiny but with more body than A.
- 1C- Mostly straight but with some wave and less shine than A and B.
Wavy Hair:
- 2A- Easy to straighten, very loose 'S' shaped waves but disperses oil quickly, making a 'greasy' look happen quicker.
- 2B- More volume, Thicker and has a stronger 'S' structure than A.
- 2C- Thick and defined 'S' shape with loose curls but can be harder to style than A or B.
Curly Hair:
- 3A- loose curls that can be difficult to style and straighten, often confused with 2B or 2C.
- 3B- thick and tight 'S' shaped curls with more volume than A.
- 3C- Thick and corkscrew shaped structure that is prone to dryness and damage because oil from the scalp cannot effectively get through the curls.
Coily Hair:
- 4A- Small 'S' shaped coils that have a spring like bounce and don't shrink too much when the hair is dry.
- 4B- Small 'Z' shaped coils that can shrink up to 70% when hair is dry. This type of hair requires special products to maintain.
- 4C- Very Small undefined hair with the highest shrinkage when dry.

https://www.avenuefive.edu/how-to-identity-your-hair-type-a-detailed-guide/

How to best look after you Skin and Hair

As with most functions of the body, your skin and hair require consistency to function to the best they can, and so lots of people implement a skin and hair care routine into their daily lives. By doing these routines regularly it allows your Skin and Hair to remain as healthy as possible.

Skin:

Normal - https://cityskinclinic.com/the-skincare-routines/normal-skin/
- Mornings - Hydrating Cleanser, Exfoliating Toner, Actives (any product with active ingredients in such as medications), Hydrating Moisturiser, SFP 30+ Sunscreen
- Evenings - Double Cleanse (use a cleanser or other 'soap' twice), Actives, rich Moisturiser
Dry - https://www.cerave.com/skin-smarts/skincare-routines/a-nourishing-skincare-routine-for-dry-skin
- Mornings - Hydrating oil cleanser, Hydrating hyaluronic acid, Eye Repair cream, Moisturiser, SPF 30+ sunscreen
- Evenings - Hydrating oil cleanser, Hydrating hyaluronic acid, Eye Repair cream, Moisturiser, SPF 30+ sunscreen
Oily - https://www.paulaschoice-eu.com/oily-skin-cause-and-treatment
- Mornings - Water Soluble cleanser, Toner, Exfoliate, SPF 30+ sunscreen,
- Evenings - Water Soluble Cleanser, Hydrating Cream,
Combination - https://www.nordstrom.com/browse/content/blog/combination-skin-care-routine
- Mornings - Gentle Cleanser, Hyaluronic acid toner, Moisturise, SPF 30+ sunscreen
- Evenings - Gentle Cleanser, Hyaluronic acid toner, Moisturise, Facial oil,
Sensitive - https://www.nordstrom.com/browse/content/blog/sensitive-skin-routine
- Mornings - Hyaluronic acid Cleanser, alcohol free toner, Noncomedogenic and hypoallergenic moisturisers, SPF 30+ Sunscreen
- Evenings - Remove makeup, Hyaluronic acid Cleanser, alcohol free toner, Noncomedogenic and hypoallergenic moisturisers

Hair:

1A- Wash with cool water, Volumizing shampoo and Conditioner every other day, use moose and blow-dry spray on towel dried hair, Blow dry hair upside down to give volume, gently brush your hair when dry

https://www.hair.com/1a-hair.html

1B- Wash every 2-3 days with cool water, hydrating shampoo and conditioner, use moisturising products on ends of towel dried hair and heat protect spray before applying heat products. Do NOT sleep with wet hair

https://www.prismaxusa.com/pages/hair-guide-curl-pattern-1b

1C- Wash every other day with cool water, hydrating shampoo and conditioner. Use moisturising product of ends of towel dried hair. Do not Sleep with wet hair.

https://www.prismaxusa.com/pages/hair-guide-curl-pattern-1c#:~:text=It%20is%20important%20to%20apply,%2C%20frizzy%2C%20and%20unmanageable%20hair.

2A- wash hair 2x per week with cool water, hydrating shampoo and conditioner, towel dry and use a leave in conditioning treatment.

https://www.shape.com/lifestyle/beauty-style/2a-hair-care-waves#:~:text=If%20you%20have%20type%202A,re%20out%20of%20the%20shower.

2B- Wash hair with a gentle shampoo and hydrating conditioner every 2-3 days with cool water, towel dry hair and use a leave in conditioner.

https://www.carolsdaughter.com/blog/hair/hair-care-tips/2b-hair-care-tips.html

2C- Wash hair with a Gentle shampoo and conditioner 2-3x per week with cool water, dry hair with a microfiber towel or diffuser and apply a leave in Conditioner. apply moisturising, lightweight products to middle and ends of hair.

https://www.maneclubnyc.com/blogs/news/2c-hair-guide

3A- wash hair with sulphate free shampoo, a lightweight conditioner and cool water once a week refreshing your hair as necessary, Use water based products, apply hydrating oil-free products to mid and ends of hair, allow hair to air dry.

https://www.womenshealthmag.com/beauty/a43591351/3a-curly-hair/

3B- Apply hydrating conditioner to the mid to ends of your hair before washing with a hydrating shampoo, deeply moisturising conditioner and cool water once or twice a week. use a deep conditioner frequently and don't brush your hair, separate it with your fingers and 'scrunch' the end of your hair up to define curls.

https://mykaoshop.com/blogs/john-frieda/how-to-take-care-of-3b-hair

3C- use sulphate free shampoo and conditioners and deep condition your hair with cool water once a week, use moisture rich products and a 'pineapple' (hair covering) when sleeping. knots are common with this hair type to use anti knot sprays and products to help detangle.

https://mykaoshop.com/blogs/john-frieda/how-to-care-for-3c-hair#:~:text=Use%20Volumizing%20Shampoos%20and%20Conditioners.&text=Add%20some%20volume%20into%20thin,in%20conditioning%20mist%20to%20help.

4A- wash your hair with cool water weekly with clarifying Shampoo and hydrating conditioner, then use a nourishing products (such as argon oil) on the mid to ends of your hair. Avoid heat products and sleep with a 'pineapple'.

https://www.shape.com/4a-hair-type-tips-6831993#:~:text=If%20you%20have%204A%20hair,that%20type%20to%20begin%20with.

4B- Use a pre-shampoo treatment then hydrating and sulphur free shampoo and conditioner with cool water once a week, use a deep conditioner often and spray your hair with leave in conditioner or a water/oil mix throughout the day, avoid heat and use a wide tooth comb to detangle your hair and sleep in a 'pineapple'.

https://mykaoshop.com/blogs/john-frieda/what-is-4b-hair

4C- Wash your hair once a week with cool water a conditioning shampoo and revitalising conditioner, use a leave in conditioner spray or oil/water mix throughout the day, use conditioners and a wide tooth comb to help detangle hair, sleep in a 'pineapple' and avoid processes that with dry your hair out (heat products, hair dye etc)

https://www.lorealparisusa.com/beauty-magazine/hair-care/all-hair-types/how-to-care-for-4c-hair

The task:

Taken from the assignment brief -

"You have been hired by a TV production company to work on designs for a new retro style sci-fi TV series that is soon to be launched (think Star Trek, Space 1999, UFO), called Psi Force. You have been asked to design character hair and make-up designs for the series based on an outline provided by the production company. You will need to work alongside the director, the producer, the cast and the costume team to work with the design brief and come up with some amazing ideas. Imagine, this could lead to you working on the show when it is made….better get to work!! The production company have provided you with the following synopsis to work on (you may expand on this as your designs take shape): Psi Force Main Characters Wolfgang Nopoto: Wolf is the leader of the psi division of the fourth galactic precinct. He is responsible for training all new recruits and pairs them up according to his own criteria. Zojohino: A trainee psi-gamma with precognition and remote viewing skills. She wishes she could take a more active role in missions but her abilities are too valuable to risk since she is one of the few remote viewers with the ability to ‘see’ through wormholes into other galactic precincts. Sif Nolok: A trainee psi-kappa with developing telekinetic powers. When angry they have to rein in their tendency towards pyrokinesis. Rash Bendar: the CEO of Ottlos Corp, a shadowy company that has the monopoly on space travel and exploration in the fourth galactic precinct. The company is moving into other precincts and taking over more and more of its competitors. Wolf is convinced that there is a more sinister motive than mere profit behind Rash’s moves but has not been able to come up with any evidence to prove otherwise despite having some of his best psi-cops investigate. Pilot Episode Zojohino and Sif begin their education at Wolf’s academy and despite their initial dislike for each other are partnered together on their first training mission. Zojohino tries to rein in some of Sif’s recklessness when they attempt to stop an Ottlos Corp officer without proof of any wrong-doing based on their ‘feeling’ about them. In the process, she catches a suppressed glimpse of a nightmare future deep within the officer’s subconscious – but they mysteriously die before she can contact Wolf for help. Mise En Scène Gorgeous CGI planet landscapes and claustrophobic ship interiors. "

My interpretation:

My interpretation of the brief is to create hair and makeup designs for 4 Characters: Wolfgang Napoto (Wolf from now on), Zojohino (Zojo), Sif Nolok (Sif) and Rash Bendar (Rash), and then undertake the hair and makeup role for the 'performance'.

First drafts: (after mis-interoperating the brief and going for elemental inspired makeup looks)

Revised Drawings/ Plans (once the brief was fully understood):

Wolf

The only information I was given about Wolf is that he is a leader who likes to shape people in his image. Using this information and my 'Earth' design, I designed this makeup look, incorporating the power and strength of mountains and rocks into the eyebrow and under the cheek bone but using the hard contrasts of black, grey and red to show the power in the character. I then converted it into a female look and decided on black straight hair to compliment it.

Zojo

This character has the ability to 'see through' things that other characters cannot so to visualise this, I wanted to put a third eye on the forehead to easily distinguish this character. I then merged the third eye design with the 'water' design from before to create this look. I took inspiration from the character 'Zan' in Farscape who has empathetic and telepathic powers.

Sif

Sif has telekinetic powers but is prone to pyrokinetic tendencies so adjusting my 'fire' design seemed like the obvious choice. I wanted the 'fire' to be the dominating feature of this look but wanted to keep an element of humanity visible, so decided on fiery eyes and a normal skin. I wanted to add an element of telekinesis in there too but couldn't think of a complimentary way to incorporate it.

Rash

Rash is presented as a bad guy in this story who owns a space travel company. I took the 'air' element and coloured in the clouds to give them a more stormy look and added in some lightning bolts to 2 of them. I then decided to add a red tinge to the un-bolted clouds to give an evil atmosphere and add in the yellow and red to the eyeshadow to give it more depth of colour. With the hair, I decided to go for 3 small French plaits leading to just above the ear, giving a 'half-head of hair' look, like a lot of stereotypical bad girls have.

Hair and Makeup Shopping list:

Pre-makeup:

Primer- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rimmel-London-Lasting-Finish-Transparent/dp/B00Q26XMEW/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1QJ2J4B6ZXP4O&keywords=primer&qid=1706806537&sprefix=primer%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-9

Makeup:

Hair:

Equipment and applicators:

Cost sheet (as of 12/02/2024)

Hair and Makeup cost Sheet.docx

Techniques and Application Process

For these makeup looks, I've tried to keep the application and techniques as simple yet effective as possible, using only a few techniques for each look but adapting them to fit each design.

-'Blank canvas stage'

-Eyeshadow blending

-Lipstick design

-Outlining/ defining

-Straight hair

-Curled hair

Wolf Application plan:

Start off with a Primer and apply using fingertips, wait until it has dried a little and is sticky.
Conceal and Colour correct any impurities and blemishes using a damp applicator sponge and brushes.
Apply foundation with a brush or damp sponge and blend in so you have a 'blank canvas' to work with and apply setting powder.
Use a pencil eyeliner to sketch the outline of the mountain and crack.
Apply eye primer, wait for it to go sticky then apply a nude base layer of eyeshadow with an eyeshadow brush to give your eyes a 'blank canvas'.
Starting from the inside (closest to your nose) and working out, lightest to darkest colour, blend in the Light grey, grey and black eyeshadows across your eyelids, ensuring they are even on both sides.
Using a grey eyeshadow, fill in the mountain and using a white eyeshadow, fill in the snow.
Carefully cover the mountain and use a dark grey eyeshadow to create an aura around the mountain, linking it to the eyeshadow in the outer corner of the eye.
Continue using the grey eyeshadow to snake down the face, across the nose and down underneath the cheekbone following the design above.
Fill in the eyebrows with dark brown eyebrow pencil and gel them in place.
Use a black eyeliner pen to trace over the mountain lines and cracks to define them.
Use a lash curler and mascara on your eyelashes
Use the red lipstick and fill in ONLY the inside of your lips.
Using the black lipstick, outline the edges and middle of your lips, joining it with the red lipstick.
Blend the lipstick together carefully
Apply a setting spray to your face
Apply a heat protect spray to your hair
Using a hair straightener, straighten your hair and spray with hairspray to secure it immediately after.
Finally, cover your face to protect the makeup and apply the black hairspray colouring to your hair.

Sif Application Plan:

Start off with a Primer and apply using fingertips, wait until it has dried a little and is sticky.
Conceal and Colour correct any impurities and blemishes using a damp applicator sponge and brushes.
Apply foundation with a brush or damp sponge and blend in so you have a 'blank canvas' to work with and apply setting powder.
Apply eye primer, wait for it to go sticky then apply a nude base layer of eyeshadow with an eyeshadow brush to give your eyes a 'blank canvas'.
Use a pencil eyeliner to sketch the outline of the flames
Starting from the centre of your eyelid and working out the the edge of the flames, lightest to darkest colour, blend in the yellow, orange and red eyeshadows.
Fill in the eyebrows with dark brown eyebrow pencil and gel them in place.
Use a lash curler and mascara on your eyelashes
Using a black liquid eyeliner, outline the flames
Use a Black lipstick ONLY on the inside of your lips
Using the red lipstick, fill in the outline and middle of the lips
Carefully blend the lipsticks
Apply a setting spray to your face
Apply a heat protect spray to your hair
Using a Curling wand, create large ringlets throughout all of the hair, using hairspray to keep them in place, (you can use bobby pins to pin the curls up to maintain the best curl possible.)
Cover your face and use a red hairspray colourant to colour your hair.

Zojo Application Plan:

Start off with a Primer and apply using fingertips, wait until it has dried a little and is sticky.
Apply eye primer, wait for it to go sticky.
Use an eyeliner pencil to sketch out an eye in the centre of the forehead.
Starting from the inside (closest to your nose) and working out, lightest to darkest colour, blend in the Light blue, medium and dark blue eyeshadows across your eyelids, ensuring they are even on both sides.
Starting from the centre and working out to the end of the 'iris' of the forehead eye, Darkest to lightest colour, blend the dark, medium and light purples together.
Using a mixture of dark, medium and light blue eyeshadows, cover the face in blue patches, blending together to create a seamless look AVOIDING the eye outline.
Use a white eyeshadow to colour in the 'white' of the forehead eye.
Using a black liquid eyeliner, outline the forehead 'eye'
Fill in the eyebrows with dark brown eyebrow pencil and gel them in place.
Use a purple lipstick on the lips
Apply a setting spray to your face
Apply a heat protect spray to your hair
Using a Curling wand, create large ringlets throughout all of the hair, using hairspray to keep them in place, (you can use bobby pins to pin the curls up to maintain the best curl possible.)
Cover your face and use a blue hairspray colourant to colour your hair.

Rash Application Plan:

Start off with a Primer and apply using fingertips, wait until it has dried a little and is sticky.
Conceal and Colour correct any impurities and blemishes using a damp applicator sponge and brushes.
Apply foundation with a brush or damp sponge and blend in so you have a 'blank canvas' to work with and apply setting powder.
Apply eye primer, wait for it to go sticky then apply a nude base layer of eyeshadow with an eyeshadow brush to give your eyes a 'blank canvas'.
Use a pencil eyeliner to sketch the outline of the clouds and lightning.
Starting from the inside (closest to your nose) and working out, lightest to darkest colour, blend in the light grey, Grey and red eyeshadows across your eyelids, ensuring they are even on both sides and add a small yellow patch in the very inside corner of your eye.
Fill in the eyebrows with dark brown eyebrow pencil and gel them in place.
Use a lash curler and mascara on your eyelashes
Fill in the clouds with grey eyeshadow
Fill in the lighting bolts with yellow eyeshadow
Carefully cover the clouds and bolts and using a black eyeshadow, create an aura around the clouds.
Using a red eyeshadow, add a red tinge to the un-bolted cloud auras.
Use a black liquid eyeliner to outline to clouds and lightning bolts
Use a black lipstick on your lips
Apply a setting spray to your face
Apply a heat protect spray to your hair
Carefully create 3 small plaits on one side of your head, only making them go to just above your ear.
Using a straightener, straighten the loose hair
Finally, cover your face to protect the makeup and apply the black hairspray colouring to your hair.

RISK ASSESSMENTS:

Risk assessment Hair and Makeup.pptx

(Hairspray patch tests)

The final looks:

Performers Considerations:

Acne
Sensitive skin
Redness and irritation
Prior reaction to face paint
2A or 2B hair type

Pre-Makeup skin Prep (for Sensitive and acne prone skin)

Gently cleanse (AM and PM) - foam cleanser, oil free, fingers and warm water only
Use a Toner or Astringent (AM and PM) - helps remove excess oil and impurities. Use one specially formulated for acne prone skin and apply with a cotton pad and let dry.
Apply any medications or treatments (AM and PM)
Moisturize (AM and PM)- oil free, SFP 30+ (AM), noncomedogenic (PM)
Primer*

*if wearing makeup

Key Ingredients to look for

Benzoyl peroxide- to kill bacteria
Salicylic acid- to remove dead skin
Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)- to kill bacteria, remove dead skin and reduce inflammation.

Products I'm using:

Straightener
Small Comb
Hairbrush
Hair grips
Hair claw
Cotton pads
Cotton buds
VO5- invisible ultimate hold Hairspray
TRESemme- Heat defence care and protect spray
Garnier- Skinactive micellar rose water cleanse and glow
Frederico Mahora- professional brush spray
Frederico Mahora- Makeup setting spray
Elf- Flawless satin foundation (240, vanilla)
Garnier- Skinactive BB cream anti-age (light)
Maybelline- instant anti-age eraser concealer (00, ivory)
Frederico Mahora- bottled eyeliner
Frederico Mahora- automatic eyebrow pencil (Bistre)
Miss beauty- eyebrow pencil (no.2 blonde)
Liner stylo and taille mine- eyeliner

Elizabeth arden lipgloss (06 heavenly rose)
W7- browcicles brow wax
Rimmel- wonder'full waterproof brow mascara
Maybelline- the falsies push up drama mascara
Maybelline- fauxcils push up angel mascara
W7- ultra plush everything mascara
Nivea- rosehip oil lip scrub+ moisture
Root minerals eyeshadow (enchanted peach)
Root minerals eyeshadow (silver supernova)
Jeffrey star- Androgyny eyeshadow pallet
elf- instant lift brow pencil (blond)
W7- the matte fixer setting spray
technic- soft focus transparent loose powder
Changeable- Fantasy, eyeshadow pallet
Beauty glazed- colour fusion, eyeshadow pallet
Unique- Temporary Hair spray (Black)
Claires- colour hairspray (Red)
Claires- Colour hairspray (Blue)

(layout of workspace)

(Pot of clean brushes (just stained))

Eyeshadow blending technique:

1) Start with fresh and prepped skin

2) Place your eyeshadow colours on in blocks

3) Carefully blend the colours together

Au Naturel - (pre hair and makeup)

Wolf

Evaluation:

This makeup look was a relatively simple look to accomplish and I thought it went well. Preparing the base (Primer, foundation, concealer, setting powder) is something that I've done hundreds of times before as part of the everyday natural makeup look so it was easy to get that part done quickly. drawing the mountain and crack was challenging as i needed to make it dark enough to see the outline to fill in, but not so dark that if i made a mistake it would be difficult to correct. I ended up starting it with a pencil eyeliner, filling in the whites, greys and silvers and then re-lining the details with a liquid eyeliner. This combination seemed to work well. The blending of eyeshadows was initially challenging because of the pigment contrast of the eyeshadows. The silver eyeshadow is heavily pigmented so a little went a long way, whereas the pallet shadows were less pigmented so had to be applied in a few layers to get the desired look. The change in pigment between the two meant that to start with I misjudged how much of each shadow to use and to the colours looked out of proportion. Adding more of the less pigmented and blending the highly pigmented shadows corrected this. The lips went a bit wrong because the lip-gloss I chose to use wasn't as pigmented as id hoped so the lips weren't as dark as originally planned, however I still like how the technique turned out. The Hair part of doing this look was relatively straight (ha, get it...'straight' cuz of the straight hair...never mind) forward. Straightening your hair is as simple as applying a heat protect spray, brush your hair, slowly drag the straightener down the length of your hair and put a thin layer of hairspray on to keep it there and I often straighten my hair so am used to doing it. The issue arose when the colourant came into play. Because humans don't have eyes in the back of our heads, its very difficult to assess how evenly the hair colour spray has been applied and I found that there were lots of patches where I couldn't see what I was doing.

Overall, this look went very well and I'm happy with how it turned out. I managed to stick closely to the design and overall (hair and makeup application combined) it took about 45 minutes -1 hour to accomplish.

What I have learnt from this look, is that you definitely need another set of hands to help with hair colour application if you're intending to do hair and makeup yourself.

The feedback I received on this look was positive, everyone liked the flow down and join from the eye to the cheek, however a few asked about what colour the lips were supposed to be, black or pink? I think this is really valid point as its not clear at all and would be better if a more pigmented lip gloss was used.

(Please mute video...as I forgot before uploading...)

Zojo

(please mute video...as I forgot before uploading again...)

Evaluation:

This makeup look was defiantly the hardest to do. Originally I wanted to use face paint but I have a reaction to face paint so I had to swap it for eyeshadow instead.

I started off curling my hair. Originally I wanted to use a curling wand but lost mine last year so had to use a straightener instead. There is a definite technique to curling hair with a straightener and it takes a while to find it! I put a small section of heat protect sprayed hair into the straightener, twisted the straightener around and slowly pulled down. This worked most of the time but every now and then I just ended up straightening a section so id have to start again. I then sprayed it with hairspray and put a hair pin in to hold it in place. I then repeated this for the whole head of hair.

Once the hair was done I used a primer on my face and then used a pencil eyeliner to outline the 'eye' on my forehead. I then carefully used a selection of blue eyeshadows across my whole face and blended them together as I went. I applied a selection of blue eyeshadows lightest to darkest (inner eye to outer eye) to my eyelids and I then used a white eyeshadow and some water to improvise a white paste to use for the 'eye'. Unfortunately it went really flaky and clumped up as I was applying it so it took a few tries and some clearing up along the way. I then used a purple eyeshadow for the 'iris'. I used a liquid eyeliner to outline the 'eye', applied mascara, Eyebrow pencil and purple lipstick and then applied a setting spray.

I then un-pinned all the curls are sprayed my hair with blue hairspray (using a towel to protect my clothes).

Overall, this wasn't the best makeup look. I think the blue patches on the face needed to be bigger because it all just blends into a light blue with random dark patches on it and the lipstick application looks very un-even. The blue hairspray is very obviously patchy and the blue face should have been extended down the neck so that it was a seamless join instead of a blue line separating the face and neck.

Next time, I will use a lipstick applicator brush to overline the lips to give them a smooth finish, use bigger dark blue patches on the face and ask for help when applying the hair colourant.

I was doing other things while doing this look so was distracted throughout, but this look took about an hour to complete.

The feedback I received on this look was ok, although lots of people noticed the patches in the hair so two people are defiantly needed when applying the hair colour.

Sif

Evaluation:

This look was the last one that I did and after learning from Zojos hair, I knew it was going to take a while to curl.

I started off spraying my hair with heat protect spray and then took a small section of hair, put it in the straightener, twisted the straightener and slowly pulled down. Today I did not have the technique right and it took a couple of tries to figure out how to curl and not straighten my hair. Once I had successfully curled it, I sprayed it with hairspray, rolled it up and pinned it up to help maintain the curl. I then repeated this across the whole head of hair.

I then applied a primer to my face and applied a natural base of makeup (foundation, concealer, setting powder). I then used a pencil eyeliner to sketch out the flames around my eyes. I then started from the centre of my eyelid and expanded out with yellow, orange and red eyeshadows to the pencil line. I then used a dark brown eyebrow pencil to fill in my brows and used a liquid eyeliner to outline the flames. I then used a pencil eyeliner to do my water line (lower lash line), applied mascara and applied a black lipstick to the centre of my lips, and a pink lip-gloss to the outside of my lips. I then applied a setting spray.

Finally, I un-pinned all the curls and applied a red hairspray to my hair, using a towel to protect my clothes.

Overall I'm happy with how this look turned out but would use a more pigmented red lipstick next time, a curling wand and get someone to help with the hair colour application as it is really patchy in some places.

This look to about an hour to accomplish.

The feedback I received on this look was good and a lot of people said I should become a red head!

(You can listen to me jamming in this one!)

Rash

(please mute video...the jamming's over...)

Evaluation:

As this look had the same hair colour and a very similar hair style to Wolfs look, I completed this look directly after removing Wolf's makeup so that I wouldn't have to re-do the hair section. This means I reduce the risk of damage to my hair (less heat application, less product application and less washing) and save myself some time in the process.

This look has a natural base to it so it was easy to apply the primer, foundation, concealer and setting powder as I would do normally. I then used the same technique as I had done with Wolf and used a pencil eyeliner to lightly sketch outlines of clouds and lightning bolts. Once that had been done I carefully coloured in the clouds, put on dabs of eyeshadow around the clouds and filled in my eyelids. The lightning bolts I found very tricky. The yellow eyeshadow I had was not very pigmented and so did not show up well at all when applied dry, so I decided to dampen the yellow eyeshadow to make it into more of a creamy consistency. It half worked in that it made the eyeshadow brighter but instead of going creamy it just balled up (like talcum powder does with water, or spray deodorant with sweat) and flaked off. I filled in as much as I could and then decided to quit while I was ahead so that I didn't risk ruining what I had already done. I then filled in my brows and outlined the clouds and bolts with a liquid eyeliner. I finished off with mascara and black lipstick.

I then parted my hair where I wanted the 3 plaits to be and used a French plait technique (that I think is actually a Dutch plait?) to incorporate them into the look. I then fastened them in place with hair grips and spray.

Overall I'm happy with this look, although I would definitely do things differently next time. First, I would use small hair elastics to hold the plaits in place instead of grips. They will provide a more secure hold. Next, I would try and find a water activated, highly pigmented yellow liner so that the lightning bolts stand out and can be applied easily. Finally, I would use a fine lipliner brush to outline my lips. Because of how dark the lipstick is in comparison to my skin, it is very easy to see that the lipstick is not applied flawlessly and has gaps where pink lips are showing and its obviously over or underlined. Using a lip liner would allow for a smooth finish.

This look took about 30 minutes to complete (makeup and plaits only).

The feedback I received was good although a few people noticed how overlined and messy the lips looked, as black is such an obvious colour mistakes show up more.

Extra Links

https://www.nordstrom.com

https://www.colorescience.com/pages/skin-health