Eating in Japan 

Early on, I learned that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. I didn’t realize the Japanese took this seriously. I discovered how nutrient-dense traditional Japanese breakfast was while staying at the Holiday Inn Express in Osaka’s Midosuji. 

I had their complimentary breakfast every day. 

“Don’t pay for anything you can get for free,” I told my son, Ryan. “Breakfast is included in the hotel price, it’s already paid. It’s really good.”

It wasn’t until the third day that I ventured to the Japanese breakfast offerings: steamed rice, miso soup, grilled fish, eggs (boiled or rolled omelet), and sautéed or pickled veggies. My plate was colorful.  Choices included orange salmon and carrots, yellow squash or yam, green beans and bok choy, purple or dark eggplant, or red-skinned sweet potato. 

We usually ate breakfast around 8:30. The Japanese breakfast nourished me for a day of walking to and from train stations, going up and down stairs, and sightseeing. We often had late lunch or early dinner.

Ramen is a must-try in Japan. In Shinagawa, Tokyo, we had the best tasting ramen. We stood in line for 10 minutes. Inside were a few tables that the host efficiently managed. The staff behind the counter greeted guests with “Irasshaimase” (Welcome) in a cheerful, musical manner. Within minutes, the server took our order and in no time, two bowls of firm, fresh-tasting noodles, topped with slices of pork, bamboo shoots, red onions and scallions arrived at our table.

Around me, guests expertly slurped their noodles, a skill I hadn’t learned. All I could do was lift the long, hot noodles with my chopsticks, cooling them a bit, and slip as much as I can in my mouth. The noodles and broth tasted rich, savory, comforting and balanced.

The most memorable meal was early dinner at an izakaya (pub) in Gion, Kyoto. Ryan was adept at finding restaurants with great reviews. With a few taps on his phone, he found the izakaya. 

The place was small; the few tables were occupied. The chef behind the counter motioned for us to sit at the counter and took our order.

I watched with fascination as the chef prepared Ryan’s shrimp yakisoba noodles. He was a culinary artist. With toned arms and flourish, he cooked the dish in front of us. Fresh noodles, sliced carrots, cabbage and green onions and light seasoning transformed into a delicious work of art. I had to try some.

The chef brought out my order, five perfectly fried breaded oysters served with a simple lettuce and cucumber salad and thick dipping sauce. Ryan surprised me; he ate one then another. “You eat oysters? Right on.” I said.

“The best!” I told the chef. Seemingly pleased, he bowed twice. 

Dinner at Wagyu Sukiyaki Goku in Nara was a unique albeit the most expensive meal of the entire trip. It took two hours to get to Nara to visit the deer park. When we finally arrived, Ryan spotted a deer roaming in the mall! After our encounter with the friendly deer, Ryan announced, “Let’s have some sukiyaki!”

Ryan ordered their one-pound A5 Wagyu tasting set.  I ordered the 100-gram set. Sukiyaki is a hotpot dish with thinly sliced beef, tofu and fresh vegetables simmered in a sweet and savory broth, served with rice, of course. A beaten egg was offered for dipping. An egg yolk with truffle over hot rice was the finale. Luxurious!

For sure, Japanese food is more than sushi. Their cuisine is as varied as the country itself. Japanese breakfast is my favorite.

~ Nida Spalding