Previous Year : 2018 The Bona Boater's Trips Following Year : 2020

2019 - Leeds & Liverpool Canal.

Crew : Pete W, Pete M, Dave (BTS1), Alan, Stan, John & Chris (Nursie)

Boat : Gloucester

From : Shire Cruisers, Barnoldswick.

Route : Barnoldswick > East Marton > Gargrave > Skipton > Keighley > Bingley > Shipley > Rodley [w] > Bingley > Silsden > Skipton > East Marton > Foulridge [w] > Barnoldswick.

Coverage : 82 Miles and 62 Locks... and 65 swingbridges !

Notes : The original plan had been to go all the way down to Leeds, despite the boatyard recommending that we wind at Rodley. However, since there seemed to be little of interest between Rodley & Leeds, and including the return trip it would have taken up the equivalent of a full days cruising, the crew showed little enthusiasm for what would have been just one evening in Leeds.

Less than a week before departure, C&RT issued new restrictions on lockages due to low rainfall over the last winter coupled with already low reservoir levels. These new restrictions would come into force on Friday 17th May - the very same day we were due to to set off.

All locks from Greenberfield Top Lock No.44 down to Holme Bridge Lock No.30 would only be open for navigation between 10:00 and 17:00, with last entry to flights at 16:00.
The Bingley Three-rise and Five-rise locks would only be open for one hour each way in the morning and one hour each way in the afternoon.

These restrictions did cause us some issues.

Friday 17th May

Morning : Barnoldswick. Having discovered that our boat was out the previous week, and having received specific instructions from Shire Cruisers not to arrive too early, we agreed to meet up at the boatyard at 13:00. Pete W took Dave (BTS1) and John & Chris took Alan. Pete M said he would make his own way there from Nottingham. Stan said he would join us on Saturday, once he knew where we would be and when we would be there. We duly arrived at the boatyard at 13:00 to find the boat ready, so we loaded up, had the handover and were ready to depart by 13:45.

Lunch : None. Shire Cruisers always insist on accompanying the boat through the first couple of locks just to ensure the crew know what they're doing. Our plan had been to pick up the boat, then stop at the next bridge (Long Ing Bridge No.153) then walk back into Barnoldswick for a few pints of lunch. However, this plan was scuppered when the chap from Shire Cruisers said that he had to "sign us off" as being competent at Lock 44, so we had to cruise straight there. This meant that there would be no opportunity for a lunchtime stop as there was nowhere else worth stopping at between there and East Marton.

Afternoon & Evening : East Marton. The original plan had been to get to Gargrave on Friday evening. Although it is not a particularly long run (only about four-and-a-half hours) the new lock restrictions meant that there was now the real possibility of getting stuck at Bank Newton Top Lock No.41 if we were delayed for any reason and were to arrive there after 16:00. If we did get stuck there, then we would have the choice of either a 2 mile walk down to Gargrave or a 2 mile walk back up to East Marton, as well as the 2 mile walk back to the boat afterwards. Neither of these options seemed particularly appealing. Since we would need to be at Lock 41 well before 16:00 to guarantee a passage, and given the alternatives should we fail, we decided to abandon the attempt to reach Gargrave and to stop at East Marton instead. On arrival at East Marton, we moored by Williamson Bridge No.162. According to the map in Nicholson's, the pub appears to be on the main road (A59) near Double Arched Bridge No.161, so we made our way onto the A59 at Br.161, and walked along the busy main road. Some disquiet was voiced about the potential dangers of walking back along this busy road later that night in the dark. We arrived in the pub unscathed at about 16:00. A bit of poring over mobile phone maps in the pub later revealed that there was a minor road which led from the back of the pub straight back to Br.162, right where we had moored. Relieved, we had plenty of beer and a nice meal, followed by plenty more beer. Having been in the pub since 16:00 partaking of refreshment, by 22:00 we were all feeling rather tired & somewhat over-refreshed, so we decided to retire to the boat early for the obligatory Port & Stilton - although for some reason, we didn't actually have any Stilton that night.

Saturday 18th May

Lunch : Gargrave. As it was not very far from East Marton to Gargrave, and since Bank Newton Locks would not be open until 10:00 anyway, we knew we would have plenty of time for a late start, so we left East Marton at about 09:30. As we arrived at Anchor Lock No.33, Stan appeared right on cue. We eventually moored up in Gargrave at about 12:20 and repaired to The Old Swan for numerous pints of Timothy Taylor's Golden Best & Landlord, before setting off for Skipton at about 15:30.

Anchor Lock 33 - where Stan appeared right on cue.

The Old Swan, Gargrave.

Holme Bridge Lock 30 at Gargrave, with it's balance beam poetry.

Evening : Skipton. We arrived in Skipton at about 17:45 and moored up near Belmont Bridge No.178. We went straight to The Woolly Sheep for numerous pints of Timothy Taylor's Dark Mild & Ram Tam, and to decide where we might eat. We had a quick look at the menu in the pub and decided we would eat there. The pub was very busy, but we were lucky to get a table quite quickly. We had an excellent meal, followed by more pints of Taylor's. Again, by about 22:00, we were all beginning to feel a little 'tired & emotional', so we decided to retire to the boat where both Port and Stilton were forthcoming.

Is this a sign of age catching up with us ? As Pete W pointed out, he is still the youngest member of the crew, but he himself is now older than the oldest member of the crew was way back when we started boating in 1992 - and in those days we could endure multiple lock-ins during the week, whereas nowadays it appears that we can barely make it to closing time.

Brewery Swingbridge No.177 at Skipton.

This swingbridge is unusual in that it is only partially automated. It requires a BW key, it has automatic lights & barriers and has a powered locking mechanism, but once unlocked the bridge itself must be swung manually.

Sunday 19th May

Lunch : Keighley. We left Skipton at 08:15, arriving at Stockbridge Swingbridge No.197 at about 12:00. We moored up and set off to walk to Keighley. On Bradford Road, we noticed a street sign which appeared to send us off in a different direction to that indicated by the map on Pete's iphone, so we followed the sign. It took us along Aireworth Road. The group by this time had split into two, with Nursie, Dave, Alan and the two Petes ahead and John & Stan somewhat behind. The leading part of the group however missed a second sign pointing to a path off to the right and instead they continued to follow Aireworth Road right up to the top. John & Stan however spotted the second sign and followed the alternative path (Aireworth Grove) off to the right. At the top of Aireworth Road was the A650 (a very busy dual carriageway) which had to be crossed. The lead group managed to find an underpass which crossed the road, but which then led off in the wrong direction. They then had no alternative but to walk back along this busy road (where there was no footpath) in order to cross over the river, then scramble down the embankment, to where John & Stan, who had gone the other way, were already waiting. We continued towards Keighley, passing by The Bridgehouse Brewery and we emerged close to The Railway Station. After a brief look round The Station, (and a visit to Asda by Dave to buy a towel) we reconvened in The Boltmakers Arms where we had numerous pints of Timothy Taylor's Golden Best, Dark Mild & Ram Tam. After the walk back, and managing not to go astray this time, we set off for Bingley at 17.05.

We passed by Bridgehouse Brewery...

...before emerging near The Railway Station.

Evening : Bingley. After taking on water by A.B.C. swing footbridge, we moored as close as we could to the top of The Five Rise, and we then walked down to into Bingley. There had been the suggestion of having a couple of pints then going for a curry. We could smell the curry but we weren't sure where the curry house was. We found our way to The Brown Cow for the couple of pints, but then decided to stay there and eat there instead. More Taylor's Golden Best, Landlord & Ram Tam, and an excellent meal. Sadly, no Dark Mild though. The only qualm was that this now made three nights in a row without a curry and the withdrawal symptoms were beginning to kick in - but the Port & Stilton soon cured this.

The Bingley Five Rise from the top...

...and from the bottom.

07:45 and we're waiting to descend The Five Rise...

Unusual gate paddle gear on the Five Rise.

Monday 20th May

Lunch : Shipley. We had untied the boat and had moved it down to the top of the Five Rise by 07:45. Due to water restrictions, both The Five rise and Three rise locks would only have a one hour window for entry. The Five Rise (going down) was 08:00 - 09:00 - although we were advised that if two boats were waiting, the keepers would probably (at their discretion) allow passage at other times, which turned out to be fortunate later in the week. At 08:10 we began our descent. We descended the Five Rise, the Three Rise and the Dowley Gap staircases. It was in Dowley Gap bottom lock that we had a near disaster. The boat snagged on a sticky-out bit of brickwork and listed alarmingly. Pete W was inside the boat cooking at the time, and realised something was wrong when he began to feel the boat listing and heard the mooring pins start to roll across the well deck. He went out to see what was wrong, and saw the well deck was partially under water. The boat had listed so far that the Starboard scupper (well deck drain) was underwater, and the well deck was filling up. The water level was about 1" from entering the cabin. Seconds later, he heard a crash from the galley. It was the kettle of boiling water sliding off the draining board where it had been standing, and crashing to the floor right where he had been standing only seconds before, and he would have been scalded. Luckily, Stan on the tiller realised what had happened and managed to forcibly shove the boat free of the obstruction. It just shows that even with over 25 years boating experience, things can still unexpectedly go wrong, and can go very wrong very quickly. Fortunately, the only damage was a dent in the kettle, which was relatively easily fixed.

Panic over, we continued on towards Shipley, and had moored up up at Gallows Footbridge No.207D by 11:00 - though we didn't set off to the pub until about 11:30 as the washing-up still had to be finished. Washing-up done, we set off for The Fox where we had an excellent lunchtime session with the lovely barmaid Angie, despite the lack of a gents toilet which was being fixed at the time. Fortunately for our ageing bladders, we were allowed to use the ladies toilet.

How to operate Field Locks.

Field Locks is a three lock staircase like the Bingley Three Rise, but is unmanned and user operated.

Alan operating Dock Swingbridge No.209

Saltaire Brewery - near Bridge 209.

Evening : Rodley. We finally left Shipley at about 15:00 and set off for Rodley. At Dock Swingbridge No.209, close to Saltaire Brewery Alan got off the boat to open the bridge, and it opened without issue. We passed through and pulled over, and waited for the bridge to shut and Alan to get back on the boat, but the bridge would not shut properly. It appeared to jam with the barriers half up and half down and the sirens still wailing. Alan attempted to ring C&RT, but got no answer. Fortunately, a passing local appeared to know that the best way to fix it was to re-open the bridge then shut it again. The bridge duly opened again then closed properly. After about a thirty minute delay, we were able to push on. We descended The Field Three Locks and Dobson Two Locks staircases. Field Three Locks is another three rise staircase like The Bingley Three Rise, but unlike Bingley, this one is unmanned and user operated. We finally arrived in Rodley at about 19:15. We decided that it might be prudent to wind in the evening rather than in the following morning. The boatyard had advised that we could wind just beyond Moss Swingbridge Br.218, but to our concern, there was no winding hole marked in Nicholson's, although there was one marked in a very old edition of Pearson's. We set off to wind. Pete W struggled manfully to open Br.218, but then had to struggle to close it again as he wasn't sure how long it would take for the boat to wind and return, and there were people still waiting to cross. Fortunately, the winding was relatively straightforward, and the boat was back within a few minutes. Again, Pete W struggled to open the bridge, but luckily this time he had some help to shut it. We moored up by The Rodley Barge, and went in for a pint. We had agreed to meet up with Stuart, an erstwhile member of Ebor Morris and current member of Blackbeard's Tea Party who had recently moved to the Bramley / Rodley area. Having discovered that there was no food on at The Rodley Barge, we went across the road to The Owl where we had a meal and a load more beer before Stuart left us.

We met up with Stuart at The Rodley Barge.

Tuesday 21st May

Lunch : None. We left Rodley at about 08:00 just as Stuart was going for his early morning run along the towpath, so we said our goodbyes to him all over again. At Rodley Swingbridge No.217, we caught up with another boat called "Whistle Down The Wind" - a steam powered narrowboat crewed by Geoff and Sue. The entire steam plant and engine (a 2-cylinder compound rescued from a steam launch) had been rebuilt and installed by Geoff himself. They were heading back to their home mooring at West Marton. This meeting was fortunate for us both as it meant we could take turns on the swingbridges and we could share locks. There had been a suggestion that we might stop at Saltaire Brewery but due to timing caused by the lock restrictions, we decided that the better option would be to miss out Shipley and Saltaire and push straight on to Bingley and try to get up The Three & The Five rises as early as possible. Once we had moored at the top we could then decide what we wanted to do. We travelled with WDTW sharing the locks at Hirst Mill & Dowley Gap. This time there were no issues in Dowley Gap Bottom. We continued towards Bingley, arriving at the bottom of The Three Rise at about 13:30. Information on the C&RT website implied that we would not be able to begin the ascent until 15:00. There was also a notice pinned on the lock balance beam with a phone number to ring, but the number was out of service. Sue from WDTW decided that she would walk up to find the lock keepers and speak to them. As there were two boats waiting, they agreed to let us up straight away. We climbed the Three & Five Rises with WTDW, and were we moored up for the night at the top by about 15:30.

We shared locks and swingbridges with the steam powered narrowboat "Whistle Down The Wind"

Salt's Mill, Saltaire.

Evening : Bingley & Shipley. Having moored up at the top of the Bingley Five Rise, we decided to get the train back to Shipley to visit Saltaire Brewery and maybe have a curry. We also decided to have a pint or two first in Chip 'n' Ern's in Bingley before getting the train, but we found it didn't open until 16:00. After a bit of aimless wandering looking for another pub and failing, we eventually had a couple in Chip 'n' Ern's before getting the 18:38 train to Shipley. To our surprise, we met Jonathan Brockbank on the train. Another erstwhile member of Ebor Morris who was travelling home after he had been out walking in The Dales. When we arrived in Shipley, we decided to go for the curry first, rather than go to the brewery first. The curry was rather slow in arriving - so slow in fact that Pete W's starter only arrived after his main course had been delivered, though it all still got eaten. Having had a slow but otherwise good curry, we decided it was now probably too late to go to The Brewery, so instead we walked back to The Fox where we had had the excellent lunchtime session on the previous day. What a difference a day makes... The pub was busy, full of dogs (annoyingly taking up seating space) and a over-loud live folky singer. One by one we left to sit outside, and eventually left after just one drink, and returned to Bingley. On arrival in Bingley, Pete W was beginning to feel the effects of sunstroke (or maybe that should be 'beer-stroke') so he decided to 'retire hurt' and go straight back to the boat. On passing Chip 'n' Ern's we could hear that there was loud live music on in there too, so we decided we would all return to the boat and partake of Pete's share of the Port & Stilton.

Wednesday 22nd May

Lunch : Silsden. As it was a relatively short hop to Silsden, we had another late-ish start at 08:30, stopping for water by ABC swing footbridge again. Whilst we were stopped taking on water, WDTW passed us, so we travelled with them again until we moored up just beyond Silsden Narrows, where WDTW left us. There were some new canalside houses being built, and we speculated that this may be one of those places where "No Mooring" signs will suddenly appear once the houses are sold. C&RT really should do something about this as it seems to happen wherever new developments appear. We walked into Silsden and went into The Robin Hood where we had a couple of pints. Luckily for Dave on the Token, this pub had the cheapest beer of the week at only £2.50 per pint. We then walked further up the main street to The Kings Arms, where we had a good few more, (including some rather nice Roosters Baby Faced Assassin at 6.1%) before we returned to the boat and set off for Skipton.

Evening : Skipton. We arrived in Skipton and moored up by Gallows Bridge Br.179. There was some discussion as to where we might go, and some delay as to setting off, so Pete W getting impatient with the delay, decided to go straight to The Woolly Sheep on his own for a pint anyway. He arrived there, got a pint of Dark Mild and sat in the front window and waited - only to see the rest of the crew go straight past, and go into the Early Doors micropub. Pete supped his pint then joined them. Since Early Doors closes at 20:00 (just the right time to go for a curry) we asked the barman where the best curry house was. He said he had no idea, as he was not really a curry aficionado. Luckily, another local suggested The Spice Grill Restaurant on Devonshire Place, so off we went. As we walked into The Spice Grill, a voice called out "..don't let that lot in.." - it was Geoff & Sue from WDTW again. After an excellent curry and a long chat with Geoff & Sue, we returned to the boat for the obligatory Port & Stilton, even though we couldn't fit much Stilton in after the curry.

Thursday 23rd May

Lunch : A very quick pit-stop at East Marton. Due to the ongoing water shortages and lock restrictions, we knew we did not now have much time to spare. We decided that we could possibly have a very brief lunchtime stop at East Marton, but only if we had enough time to reach Greenberfield Bottom Lock No.42 before 16:00 to ensure passage. If we missed this lock passage, we would not be able to get the boat back to the boatyard on time, so passing through this lock flight today was critical. We decided to leave Skipton at about 08:00. Whilst Nursie was taking some rubbish out at 07:45, she met Sue from WDTW again. Sue asked whether we would be leaving any time soon, so they could travel with us again. Chris said we were, and shortly after setting off, we met up with WDTW again. Again, we again shared locks & swingbridges with them until we arrived at Holme Bridge Lock No.30, which we found locked against us, and as it was not scheduled to be opened until 10:00, we waited. At 09:50, the C&RT chap arrived, unlocked the gates and we were off again. We passed straight through Gargrave, climbed The Bank Newton flight, arriving at East Marton at about 14:00, where WDTW left us for the short run on to their home mooring at West Marton. After some difficulty mooring, we eventually walked to The Cross Keys for what now would only be one quick pint before having to push on. We left the pub at about 14:50 and managed to reach Lock 42 by about 15:45. While we were still in Lock 43, the C&RT lady came to lock up the flight - so we had only just made it. We cleared the locks and continued on past the boatyard and on towards Foulridge.

Just time for one quick pint at The Cross Keys

Whistle Down The Wind on her home mooring.

Evening : Foulridge. We arrived at Foulridge Tunnel at about 17:40. The tunnel is one-way, and controlled by red & green lights:

Westbound : There is a green light for just ten minutes after each hour

Eastbound : There is a green light for just ten minutes after each half-hour.

As we were travelling westbound, we would have to wait until 18:00 for passage. We waited, and at 18:02 the lights duly changed to green, and we set off through the tunnel.

Waiting for a green light at Foulridge Tunnel

The tunnel passage takes about twenty minutes. We eventually emerged and set off to wind. The Eastbound green light would then be lit from 18:30-18:40, so we would only have about twenty minutes to get to the winding hole, wind and get back to the tunnel mouth, otherwise we would have to wait until the 19:30 passage, and probably miss out on the evening's food. Luckily, we managed it, but only just. The lights were still on green as we approached the tunnel portal, but changed to red just as the stem post of the boat passed inside. We passed through the tunnel again, and after emerging, tried to moor up just beyond the wharf. After some difficulty, several attempts and with assistance from a local boater, we eventually got moored up. We then walked to The Hare & Hounds on Skipton Road for some good beer and an excellent and good value meal. Pete W & BTS1 both had the Chinese style belly pork. The portions were generous to say the least, and Pete W had to selflessly volunteer to finish off Dave's pork, as he could not finish it all himself. After a couple more pints, we returned to the boat for the final Port of the week, the Stilton now being long gone.

Friday 24th May

Morning : Barnoldswick. We left Foulridge at about 08:10, and arrived back at the boatyard at about 09:00. To our surprise, there were several other boats to be turned round, even though ours had appeared to be the only boat there the previous week. We unloaded and said our goodbyes. John & Nursie would head off straight home taking Alan & Stan, but dropping Stan off at Skipton. Pete W would take Dave home via Bradford. Pete M would also follow Pete W to Bradford, where they visited The Al Halal supermarket and The Karachi Restaurant before saying their goodbyes.

Previous Year : 2018 The Bona Boater's Trips Following Year : 2020