Last notes
Heading south here are the highlights and lowlights from the team. Pictures have now been uploaded for all daily blogs.
Starting with the Tour Director (who looked after us impeccably). His highlights included traversing the flow country (between Lairg and Bettyhill), it was beautiful and very different. It also gets a mention by the riders, but one suspects that could be more to do with the tail wind we had though! Staying with Jim at Ash Hining Farm in Sedbergh was another highlight. The location was wonderful, and Jim the perfect host, and there was a great connection at a personal level. The community hub at Eskdalemuir also gets a mention, after all what Tour Director could not love a place that has covered, secure, bike storage available for all.
The lowlight was watching Mark slide down the road towards him. He was perfectly positioned to rescue him but would have preferred it not to have been necessary.
Ian’s highlights included the generosity of those who have supported us by donating to the Parkinson’s charities. The almost daily review of the numbers gave us a great incentive to continue. Thank you to all concerned. Another highlight was spending 18 days with 3 brothers, this is a highlight that is shared by all 3 of us. It would be the longest we have spent together continuously since our school days, but we were confident it would work from the start and it did.
The lowlight was hitting the wall on the way up to The Crask hotel. It was a long steady climb at the end of a long day and during that climb Ian hit the dreaded cyclist’s wall. We certainly knew he was suffering big time when we got to the pub but his resilience shone through as after a short rest and dinner he was back to his old self.
Mark had a number of highlights. First was Dulverton, that includes the surrounds which are beautiful, the hotel, and our hosts for the night. That was followed the next day by meeting up in Westbury-sub-Mendip with our cousins Rachael and Liz and a number of locals. The Naver valley in the flow country got a mention too. The main highlight though was retracing childhood places in Shropshire, catching up with a number of figures from our past as we travelled through added to that.
The lowlight was the rain when approaching Perth. At that stage I think all 3 of us could quite easily have stopped as the weather was so bad. Riding for a cause though kept us going.
For Steve the route was the main highlight. Travelling through the UK using minor roads on all possible occasions meant we visited parts of the country that we would normally miss. Riding along the bottom of Wenlock Edge being one memorable spot. In Ross-on-Wye the generosity of Mike and Don who invited us into their home for a fantastic dinner will remain indelibly in my memory.
Lowlights include the rain, why are we doing this was the question we asked ourselves. Another lowlight occurred about 15 minutes after we got to John o’Groats with the realisation that the adventure was finished. Time to start planning the next!
Day 16 - 2nd June
Day 16 - the last day of the ride. The weather forecast looked good and whilst it was going to be a long day it started with about 40k downhill to a place called Bettyhill so spirits were high at breaky.
Getting ready to leave about 8:30 it started to spit with rain and it looked like it was pouring down to the north west of us. We decided to put on wet weather gear and get going. A very short climb and then we skirted a windfarm. Once past the windfarm the rain stopped and the cloud cover started to break up. The downhill journey became very enjoyable. The scenary remaind picturesque, paticularly as we cycled the banks of Loch Naver and then alongside the River Naver as it journeyed down to the sea. The weather improved to such an extent that the wet weather gear came off and whilst the wind tunnel was being turned up it was in ou favour, pushing us east to John o'Groats.
Just before we got to Bettyhill we ran into our old friends Kevin and Mark again! We were to meet again at the final destination, well done guys.
We stopped at the Store Cafe in Bettyhill for refreshment. We bumped into a group of guys doing the same ride (albeit a little quicker than us) in support of Pans Pandas research. They reliably informed us that it is similar in some respects to Parkinsons, it was good to meet them, even if they did poke fun at us having a support vechicle as the were doing it unsupported. But was a great cafe, the cyclists left a couple of water bottles behind as they set off. A staff member from the Store hopped in their car to deliver the bottles back to them. The coffee and porridge were excellent too.
The Pans Pandas team also contributed to the Parkinson casue, many thanks guys.
The ride to Thurso was a bit like being in Devon and Cornwall, constant short steep climbs followed by steep descents. The big difference was we had the wind at our backs. The best riding weather we have had all trip.
Short stop in Thurso and then on to John o'Groats, mission accomplished. It had got quite cold by then, after a short farewell with Kevin and Mark we headed off to the overnight stop in Lyth and dinner in Wick.
The start
Bridge at Altnaharra
Seen on the trip down to Bettyhill
Bettyhill coast
Loch Naver
The Store Cafe
Interior of the Store
Bridge at Thurso
We made it
We sure did make it
Day 15 - 1st June
Day 15 - another dry day, in fact the weather in the morning was perfect for riding, the wind tunnel having abated somewhat.
The morning started about 4 am when a motorcyclist started up outside the bedroom window... more than a bit noisy. Luckily we managed to get back to sleep.
Today the plan was to meet Andrew and Sarah (from Sydney) at our next overnight stop, The Crask Inn. We got underway about 8:30 with a trip through town and finally over the bridge over the Moray Firth. We travelled alongside the Beauty Firth to the Muir of Ord.
Then through Dingwall and up to Alness, a very small diversion as there was nothing open in Evanton. We had two attempts for morning tea as the first cafe had a big party in it. Alness is on the banks of Cromarty Firth, we were hopping from Firth to Firth...
There was then a climb up to the highlands to then dip down to Dornoch Firth and Bonar Bridge for yet another stop. Some spectacular views from the top. According to Strava that concluded the climbing for the day.
It is about 40k from Bonar Bridge to the Crask, via Lairg. Off we went. The 40k turns out to be about 40k uphill, not steep just consistent and never ending. To add to the climb the wind tunnel was turned on again, we were now heading uphill into a wind. The group was at a loss to understand why Strava didn't consider this to be a climb of note. The road itself was very quiet and picturesque so all was not lost.
10k out from our destination we stopped for a few minutes for some R&R. No sooner had we stopped than a car approached from behind us tooting madly. Initial throught was we must be guilty of something. It turned out to be Andrew and Sarah heading to the Crask from the south, not what we expected at all. After they promised to have the beers ready at the Crask we all set off again.
We get to the Crask and find that Kevin and Mark, who we met on the road outside Lymm on day 8 were there. They had stopped for a break but were heading to overnight further north. It was like a full scale reunion of old friends.
The Crask itself was being ruin by two young Canadians, and it is in the middle of nowhere, surrounding scenary is real Scotland. We had a good evening there and there was a further contribution to the cause from Andrew and Sarah to cap it, thank you.
Start
Bridge out of Inverness
Harry Gow
In Alness
On the road
Gettiong arty
Bonar Bridge
Hats off
Lairg bridge
The way to The Crask Inn
The Crask Inn
A welcome beer at the Crask with Andrew.
Day 14 - 31st May
Day 14 - another dry day but the wind tunnel was only turned down a fraction and climbing had only just started.
We left the camping pods in search of breakfast in Ballater, we knew that the first two climbs of the day were before the first possible coffee/cake stop in Tomintoul so needed to be properly prepared. The hotel we had breakfast in is best described as old fashioned. We finally left the campsite around 9 and set off.
The first climb up was steep, the views from the top made it worthwhile though. We headed down over Cock Bridge and started the second, this one led up to our second visit to a ski field, Lecht. There were no holds barred on this climb, straigh up the mountain we went. It was so bad that we have to admit to walking some of the way. Brutal is the only way to descibe it.
We finally made it to the Tomintoul Old Fire Station cafe for a break. It is only about 30k into the days journey and it was already 12:30 so we had to push on. The was some climbing on the way to Grantown-on-Spey but nothing like what we had already experienced. The scenary remainded magnificent even if it was occasionally very dark on the horizon.
Once again the road out of Grantown led us up on to the highlands. Shortly after exiting the town we turned left onto a very minor road and for the next 20 or so kilometers we saw very little of human habitation, very few cars. The lane took us right into the outskirts of Inverness. We started on the top of the moors surrounded by bright yellow gorse, that smelt lovely, through extensive pine and silver birch forests and ended up in very rural farming countryside before getting to Inverness.
Premier Inn stop so back to internet connectivity.
View from the glamping pods
Lucky we saw this guy much later in the day.
Lecht ski centre
The way up
Corgarff Castle
Walking away
Riders on a bridge
Boys on bridge
The Old Firestation
A tribute to the Old Man
River scene
Railbridge (we think)
Day 13 - 30th May
May 30 - whilst is was a dry day it was a day that could be described as a day in a wind tunnel, a very strong northerly blew all day.
We headed north from Perth, crossing the river, lovely views both up stream and downstream. First stop was in Blairgowrie in "The Wee Cafe" for coffee and cake. Very nice it was. Little did we realise how imporatnt that was going to be.
North took us into the Cairngorms National Park. The climb up the valley to the Glenshee ski area was long and arduous. The weather forecast had predicted gust of winds up 55k, it was difficult to stand upright let alone ride a bike at the top. Couple of firsts occured here, Ian got blown off his bike, very low speed so no serious damage; and we had to pedal down the hill the wind was so strong.
After passing through the Glenshee ski field we made it down to Braemar for a well deserved cuppa and bowel of soup. The scenary is magnificant.
We then headed down the valley towards Ballater, the cruise alongside the river and past Balmoral castle was very relaxing. We then had to turn left to get up to the nights stop. A final 200m climb to get some rest.
The stop that night was Howe of Torbeg, camping pods. A completely different environment, no GSM or WiFi so had to entertain ourselves. Erik and Tivior were in the pod next door and we ended up in the snug, small communal shack where we (or rather Mark) lit a fire. The talk that night ranged from ageing through to soul music, to ska and finally to work related matters as they were both in the IT game.
Boys leaving Perth
A more "scenic" exit from Perth
View into Cairngorms
Resting place
Back down the valley
Back down the valley 2
Glenshee ski field
Pedalling down to the ski field
Godsown country
Resting spot
Glamping pods
Evening protein shake
Day 12 - 29th May
May 29 - the day started damp and overcast but importantly dry. Long day so we left reasonably promptly. It was a day of bike paths.
It was a bike path out of the hotel along an old railway line. Once through Peebles the path turned in to a purpose built bike trail for 15k running alongside a river. It was nice riding but there was water everywhere. Turning right into the hills we climb up again to some moorland heading to Edinburgh.
The weather got better and better. We rode right though the centre of Edinburgh, admiring the castle and other buildings on the way through. We would have been completely lost without the Garmin to show the way as the bike path network, especially heading out the northside was extensive and our use of it made us feel like locals. Our first stop was under the Firth of the Forth railbridge in Queensferry.
Queensferry was beautiful in the sun and vistors were out in force, the visitors included a dog on a motorbike. The only downside to the visit is that we didn't find the "Binks" stone, seen there on a previous vist by Steve. Our excuse was that the cafe wasn't exactly the quickest in the world.
Heading north again the ride over the road bridge takes you high up providing a magnificnt view over the surrounding countryside. We could also see an ominous black cloud in the distance.
Passing through Cowdenbeath we stopped again in Kelty. The black cloud had got much blacker and you could hear thunder. Eventually we push on, running out of time but we did agree very quickly on a slightly shorter and less hilly route into Perth.
It rained, and then it rained some more, then it was as though a firehose was turned on us. Roads were flooded. Just as we got into Perth the rain stopped but we were still drowned rats when we got to the hotel.
Two thirds of the way through, just four days to go now.
Ian in Edinburgh
Boys in Edinburgh, look closely enough and see the temporary stand in the castle forecourt...
Downtown
Queensferry railbridge
Boys and railbridge
Team and railbridge
Everybody visits Queensferry
Boys and roadbridges
Railbridge
Riders of the storm!
Day 11 - 28th May
May 28 - the day started dry and quite warm. Off we went only to be soaked just before we got to Cardrona. However all this is irrelevant when we consider the route. The "B" roads from Langholm to Cardrona have to rank as some of the best cycling roads we have ever come across. The climbs were long(ish) and of a consistent gradient, nothing like short sharp brutal climbs of the southwest. The descents were long and smooth and the scenary stunning. The roads hosted the Scottish UCI championships.
Leaving Langholm over the river and then the first climb. The second climb took us up to Eskdalemuir. It is pure country road riding, only stopping for photos and to take in the scenary. Just outside Eskdalemuir we came across the "Old School Hub and Cafe". (www.eskadalemuir.com) Given it had a covered bike shed, (no hanky panky) and cheese scones that looked good we stopped. The coffee/tea and scones were excellent, highly recommended as a stop.
Chatting to the staff we commented on the beautiful scenary on the way up. She enquired as to where we were going and then said, don't worry it is even better further up the valley. She was right. However we think that some of the farm names are somewhat lacking, "Foulbog"?
There was also no mention ot the Tibetan Buddhist Monastery just the road either.
Anyway, off we went, two more longish climbs and we met a father and son combo at the top of the last climb. All downhill from here to Cardrona was the message, they were right about that but they didn't warn us about the rain....
A great day even if we got a tad wet, the last short day before the final 500+k to John o'Groats. No technical issues today.
The Eskdale Hotel in Langholm
Over the river
Lanes
Yup, we're in Scotland
Eskdalemuir Cafe
Bike shed, hanky panky?
Inside cafe
Outside cafe
Tibetan Monastery
Tibetan Monastery
Foulbog?
Cycling country
Ian showing the way (look carefully!)
Day 10 - 27th May
May 27 - Rained all night, short break at 7ish, was dry when we set off poured shortly after, all dry though when we got to Langholm.
It rained overnight but the day started with two bright spots, firstly the rain paused, and secondly Jim contributed to the cause. Thankyou Jim that really made our day. Very shortly after we headed off the heavens opened and it looked like we were in for a very long day. Once again though it cleared up and apart from being chased up the valley from Orton to Yorshire Dales National Park by a very nasty looking rain storm we did not get wet again.
First stop was Temple Sowerby for morning tea/lunch. This stop also involved some technical fixes. Mark's garmin mount had broken so it was replaced with the spare we had. Steve's brakes also needed adjusting, too much braking in the wet... We sat outside as there was a sun trap at the pub.
Heading north again we skirted around the North Pennines AONB (Area of Outstanding National Beauty) to Hadrians Wall. We stopped for a photo here. Then up to Brampton for a final afternoon cuppa at the Howard Arms. Item of note it is claimed that Charles Dickens slept here, we do not know when.
Heading through Longtown we crossed into Scotland and up to Langholm. Here we had the first small hiccup with accommodation, there was no booking (so they claimed). No problems though, they had rooms.
The road from Jim's
Being chased by rain
Lanes
Scenary
Morning tea stop
Afternoon tea stop, CD slept here!
Hadrian's wall path.
Bonny Scotland.
Day 9 - 26th May
May 26 - grey overcast day and it soon started raining, all dry though by the time we got to Sedbergh.
Leaving Chorley in dry weather gear we soon stopped to put the wet weather gear on. That seemed to keep the rain away, we saw lots but it didn't rain on us until just before Clitheroe. The road north very quickly took us into the countryside, we skirted Blackburn to the north, dropped down through Whalley and ended up at Clitheroe.
We had a small technical issue to deal with, the amount of descending we had done had worn out Ian's rear disk pads. During the breafast at Maxwell's pads were swapped around to allow us to continue.
North from Clitheroe took us through the Forest of Bowland National Landscape, what a landscape it is too. Way up into the hills we went, in fact this day held the most daily climbing for the whole trip. Mark was a tad put out to discover that he was 17 metres from making it a 2000 metre day. The rain came down very heavily at times making the journey cold and wet. The roads were quite slippy as well, so slippy in fact that Mark got closer to the tarmac than he wanted. No serious damage though.
Arriving at Kirkby Lonsdale we enjoyed a cup of tea, a cake and some dry time. There were lots of travellers here with their horses tethered on grass verges. There is a horse sale about to take place and people were gathering.
At this time we were all a little tired, reviewing the final section of the route to get us to Sedbergh revealed some substantial climbs remaind. However alternatives presented themselves and we debated what course to take. We agreed on the the most direct and hopefully the flatest. As we did not have this route in the Garmin's we had to stop reasonably frequently to consult with Dr Google. A robust discussion eventuated at the last of these stops, we finally reached an agreement and headed off to the nights stop albeit later than planned.
Ash Hining Farm has proved to be an exceptional place to stop, the accommodation is first rate, the welcome we got second to none, the views incredible and the recommedation for dinner, The Black Bull, wrapped it up. All thanks to our host Jim.
More lanes
Slaidburn not Saltburn
climbing
view from the top
Lakes
Heading over the tops
Panorama
Up to the sky
Up from the valley
Off the tops
Uluru?
River at Sedbergh
River
View from Jim's
Road to Jim's