Portable List Fence

Do you need a list fence for events and demos?

Don't want to store a pile of bulky beams, or have to borrow a trailer to get it to the event?

Do you need a solution that works for both indoor and outdoor spaces?

Then you, my friend, are facing the same issues that not one, but two of my SCA groups have faced in the past. Fortunately, I designed this collapsible, portable list fence to solve all of these issues! With the focus on cheap material requirements, simple to build, and maximum usage flexibility, I hope that you will find this design as helpful as my groups have!

Self-Supporting when assembled

Works indoors and out, no stakes or hammering needed

Folds flat when not in use

Can be stacked flat and packed close for transport and storage

Tools and Materials

Wood:

A - Upright: 4' dowel, 1" diameter
B - Upper Base: 2x4, 24"
C - Lower Base: 2x4, 16"
D - Feet: 2x4, 3.5". Need two.

Hardware:

Screw hook for the top of the pole.
Screws to attach the feet to the upper base.

Other:

Wood glue
Sandpaper
Outdoor paint or other sealant
Clothesline rope to form the fence

Tools:

Saw. A circular saw is fastest but not required.
Power Drill
1" Forstner Bit or Hole Saw
Tape Measure
OPTIONAL random-orbit sander, not necessary but way nicer than hand sanding.

Supply List for 20 fence bases:

20 screw hooks
20 dowel rods
80' of 2x4 (4' per fence base)
1 gal outdoor paint
200 to 300 ft of clothesline

Instructions for assembly

Cut your lumber to length.
- Measure out your pieces, starting with the Upper Bases, then the Lower Bases. Cut the Feet from what is left over. If you buy 12' 2x4s, you'll have the least waste.
- Sawhorses and a speed square will make this part go much faster and cleaner, but they aren't strictly necessary.

Mark the center of each Upper base on the wider surface.

Drill a 1" hole at the center mark.
- Try to drill the hole as straight as possible so the base will rotate easily later.
- I didn't have a drill press handy, but if I did, I would have used it.

Repeat 2 and 3 on the Lower Base pieces.

Check to make sure the Upright dowel rod fits into all the holes. It should be a close fit, but not requiring excessive force to insert or turn.

Sand all the pieces while they are conveniently separated, but do not paint them yet.

Screw the Feet to the Upper Base pieces, one on each end.
- Make sure that you leave enough space for the Lower Base to fit and rotate between them.
- The feet can be trimmed shorter to accommodate, if necessary.
- I used two screws per Foot piece, on opposite corners.

Insert the Upright dowel through the hole in the Upper Base, leaving about six inches of the Upright extending past the Feet.

Secure the Lower Base to the end of the Upright that you have pushed through the Upper Base using wood glue.
- Make sure the dowel does not protrude past the bottom of the Lower Base, or it won't sit level.

Push the Upper Base down over the Lower Base.
- Test the fit, the rotation, and the stability. If it is very tight and hard to rotate, sand the Upright dowel rod to make sure that the Upper Base can rotate.

Screw in the hook to the end of the dowel opposite the base assembly.

Paint or seal, if desired.
- Yes, it is easier to paint the pieces after Step 6, but then you run the risk of the Upright no longer fitting cleanly in the holes in the base assembly.
- I had to take one set apart and sand off the paint under the base assembly so it would work correctly. Learn from my mistake!

Instructions for Use

Setup:

Rotate the Upper Base to the + shape and arrange them into whatever list(s) shape you want.

Tie the clothesline to one upright and pass it from one upright to the next. Secure it on each post with two wraps around the hook.

Create whatever arrangement of ropes and poles are required for your list(s).

Tie ribbons, landscaping flash, small banners, or favors to the ropes between the posts for extra visibility to Marshals, Combatants, and Populace.

Takedown:

Unhook the ropes from each upright and coil for later use.