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I'm interested in building an AC supply for a microcontroller/WiFi combo, with 120VAC input and 5VDC output. To save on cost and space, I liked the idea of a transformer-less design, and came across this application note for the TI TPS64203. I've since attempted to build this circuit, but now, I'm having some trouble getting it to run without throwing sparks.

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1. Immediately after assembly, I provided power to the circuit, and measured an output voltage of 1.68V across a load of 250 ohm. I increased the load to 1kohm, and found that the output voltage was the same. I measured the voltage out of the Rectifier bridge to be 160V (using a Multimeter), and the voltage across the D2 diode to be 4.6V. I then noticed that I had the accidentally switched the R1 and R6 resistors. Based on my calculations, the voltage on the FB pin (on the TPS64203) should be around 1.25V when the the output voltage is 5V and the proper resistors are used. Instead, with an output of 1.68V, and the incorrect resistor placement, this caused the voltage at the FB pin to be slightly greater than 1.25V, and thus, the drive circuit was never turned on!

3. In my final attempt, with the new inductor, I switched on the power, and witnessed another spark. This time, the spark came from the TPS64203 and the BAT54 (D4) diode. There were black soot marks extending between the two ICs, and it appears that the diode had split through the top of the IC. I'm not sure which IC is to blame here, so I'm hesitant to try again.

Now that I've got you up to speed on what I've observed, I'd like to talk a bit about my part selection for building this power supply. As you may have already suspected, I'm no expert with building power supplies and working with semi-conductor devices, and thus, in my first iteration, I wanted to select parts that would be overkill for this application. Furthermore, it can be seen in the schematic and board layout that I've included space for multiple packages for certain parts (C1, C5, C6, R4, R5) that I was unsure of. In the testing described above, I initially built the board with the heftier parts (if I had a choice), and my intention was to test with the smaller, cheaper parts once the supply was working. I've also included a link to a Google document, containing my Bill of Materials. Note that the items highlighted in Red are the "less hefty" parts that were not utilized in the testing mentioned previously. Follow the links to the DigiKey page for each item -- this is very helpful for locating datasheets for each part.

At this juncture, I'm not really sure how to proceed. One concern that I have is that the traces around pins 1-3 on the TPS64203 are really close together. I'm concerned that this may have allowed a short, but I can't be sure. I probed all of these pin with a multimeter, and there seemed to be no shorts. Does anyone have any suggestions? Are there any more measurements that I can take to provide some additional insight? I have a board mounted oscilloscope, so I can take detailed measurements; however, the inputs are limited to 20V. Therefore, I'm limited to monitoring certain portions of the circuit.

On another note, I'm finding that the FQD2P40 MOSFET has been discontinued, and it will be more and more difficult to obtain. Fairchild suggests a replacement part for this, but I'm not sure if it will be a perfect drop in replacement. Does anyone have an input regarding this? Secondly, if things don't work out with this application note, does anyone have any similar circuits that they've built that they wouldn't mind sharing? Something with a BOM would be preferable.

Attached is the BOM, schematic and board layout from which we wrote the app note. Your BOM and schematic look okay. It is difficult to review the layout without the part reference designators. If you follow the board layout enclosed, it should work. Note the placement of the high voltage components and how the buck power stage (Q4,D5,L2, C6 and C5) are placed. Also, the size of C4 is critical. The paper gives an equation that should help size the capacitance for C4.

I am also designing non-isolated AC/DC buck converter with no transformer using the TPS64203, I would like to produce both +48V DC@ 5A and -48V DC@ 5A, if I modify the some main switching circuit for example FQDP2P40, D2 and Vin (pin5). Also I am considering using LM5085 instead of TPS64203, which is best solution?

So I am modifying the main circuit part Q4, D5 and L2 but I have a diffculty in choosing the step down controller for 80V, 50V. In case of your design with for 5V and 750mA, my target is very high DC voltage and current. So, I am struggling with this issue myself to solve this problem. I also need to change the D2 and Q1 as well to meet the high voltage. Thus I posted my question, and I wonder if I could use LM5085 intead of TPS64203. Would you recommend the more related document for selecting step down controller for this design. I would appreciate if give me some advice for my design. What if I could use high quescent current you comment last time?

I would like to use your low cost non isolated AC/DC buck converter for our application which has 800W. The PWM controller supported current is around 3A, but maximum current is too low, would you recommend another pwm controller with same function, but current has more than 30A. After this buck converter, I will add DC/DC converter.

We plan to work on a design that would be able to allow AC and DC power supply by the same port. This design seems to be interresting providing the controller and the gate drive circuit will allow 100% duty at low voltage input. Providing the fet Rds(on) and rectifier bridge Vf is lower enough to avoid dissipating a lot of power. Do you expect that a variant of this topology could be able to allow an output of 8V, 30W with an input range of 9 to 80VDC and 80 to 240VAC.

I think it will be difficult to develop a gate drive stage that will work and/or find a PFET with low enough RDSon to make the circuit practical. There are other ICs that are design for the type of application you want. I suggest searching the power reference designs on the TI design website.

This circuit is intended to be a first stage of 2 in our design. It is followed by a wide input buck-boost regulator that deliver a 24V, 30W output from a possibility of multiple power source. To reduce the current in the circuit maybe we could forget to feed it with voltage lower than 65VDC. We could also be able to accomodate an output of 60V 600mA to reach our needed 30W at the output. The circuit could be bypassed for DC input lower than 65V. Do you expect that this circuit could be able to deliver 600mA at 60VDC at the output with an input range slightly expended down to 65VDC ? Will the MOS drive be compliant with this in/out range ?

I had the catalytic converter stolen from underneath my Hyundai Tucson recently. Unfortunately, this is happening frequently in my area and I don't have the option of parking anywhere but on the street.

My original thought was to get the converter replaced, but I'm wondering what's going to stop thieves from stealing the new one. Took it to my mechanic who put in a straight pipe. He actually recommends keeping the pipe and said no downsides expect maybe check engine light will come on.

A vehicle will fail Smog Check if the theft prevention device modifies or damages the catalytic converter or if any required identifying information is not visible. In addition, a theft prevention device should not be welded or attached directly to the catalytic converter. To help ensure the proper installation of a theft prevention device on your vehicle, visit a licensed auto shop.

Take your vehicle to a licensed Smog Check station to have a replacement converter installed. The replacement converter must be from the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) or a California Air Resources Board approved aftermarket converter with an assigned Executive Order (EO) number that meets the exact requirements for your vehicle. The station will help ensure the correct replacement converter is properly installed on your vehicle.

Please note, the replacement converter should be installed as soon as possible to avoid potential problems and damage to your vehicle, and must be installed before your vehicle's next Smog Check. If the replacement converter is on back order, contact the Smog Check Referee for assistance.

After doing research I realized that there is no simple way to do it with simple buck/boost converters since digital potentiometers are designed for low voltage and can't be used to control DC/DC converters.

Using a digital POT has drawbacks related to bandwidth (due to internal stray capacitance), and also the output voltage changing non-linearly with the POT setting. Here is a method that gets around both of those problems.

A typical setup for many buck converters is to use a pair or resistors (R1, R2) connected to between the output voltage (VOUT) the feedback pin (VFB) and ground. In this case the output voltage is normally

You can add an external IC with I2C control to control the voltage feedback loop of any DC DC controller that has the loop exposed. The IC creates a current source/sink that can change the voltage operating point of the voltage feedback loop. Keep in mind that changing the operating point could drive the DC DC controller into unstable regions, I overcame that problem by simulating the DC DC controller at it's highest and lowest voltage that the IC could produce. You also have to do a bit of math with the feedback resistors to change the voltage operating range.

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