Batik & Dyeing

Wax Resist

I was familiar with batik and tie-dye, but the Kokrobitey Institute gave me new insights into different methods and techniques. In the outside design studio, there are batik stations set up with pans of wax on stove top burners that can be applied to the fabric to create a resist. Simple designs are carved into foam blocks, which absorb the wax and maintain the heat while the design is being printed. The fabric is then put into a dye bath and, once dry, soaked in hot water to remove the wax.

Fabric is soaked in vinegar first to be able to absorb the dye.

Designs are carved into foam blocks.

The block is dipped into the melted wax.

The design is printed onto the fabric in wax.

My previous experience with batik involved tjanting needles, which have a copper reservoir that holds the melted wax and different-sized openings to apply it to fabric. I found it difficult to control the wax and often got frustrated with unwanted drips on my work. The process of using a foam block to apply wax was much more successful, and I enjoyed the bold designs it produced as well as the simplicity of the patterns. I can definitely envision projects to do with my students involving this method of batik.

Natural Dyes

The Kokrobitey Institute uses natural dyes, including turmeric and kola nut, to create warm yellow-brown tones on white fabrics. The raw materials need to be brought to a special grinder before they can be soaked in water to create the dye.

Tie-dyeing is done by gathering the fabric and wrapping it with elastic bands. Interesting patterns can be created by wrapping up stones and shells into the material, or by winding the material on a PVC pipe and then tying it with yarn.

The material needs to be soaked the natural dyes for 24 hours before it can be removed to dry in the sun. The kola nut gradually turns a darker shade of brown. The dried fabric is then rinsed in the ocean so that the salt water can set the dye.

We took a short drive up the road to bring the kola nuts and turmeric to a grinder, who ground the raw materials into a fine paste. I could already see how deep the colors were just from that simple process. In order to dye fabric with the paste, we added water until there was enough to soak fabric in it. Because the kola nut and turmeric would not dissolve, you could see and feel the grinds in the dye bath.

We also had a chance to play around with different tie-dye techniques using a variety of materials. I wrapped up stones, PVC pipes, and shells to see what kinds of patterns they would make. I was surprised to learn that metal binder clips would react with the dye to create vivid dark blue areas from oxidation.

Raw kola nuts.

After grinding.

Preparing the dye bath.

An Esi sweater soaking in dye.

My finished tie-dye

I tried several different methods to see what patterns emerged. Using metal clips causes the material to turn a dark blue color, which can be seen in the center.

Fabric drying

Batik and tie-dye experiments hanging in the sun to gradually darken the kola nut color.

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