It was a 4 hour drive from Kokrobite to Agbozume in the southeastern Volta region of Ghana. The main language spoken is Ewe, and there is a long tradition of weaving 'kete' (Kente in the Ewe language) cloth. We first stopped at a weaving site where several men were sitting at their looms, rapidly passing shuttles of colorful thread back and forth and 'beating' the pattern in between. I did not realize at first that they were controlling the warp strings with foot peddles that hung under the loom.
Kete is a form of Kente weaving that has several important distinctions. While Kente cloth has traditionally been associated with status and wealth, the patterns in Kete cloth reference daily life and proverbs. The Ewe adopted the double heddle loom from the Kente weavers, however they typically use cotton thread instead of silk or rayon.
I could not believe that the weavers had created this shawl for me before I got there! Bubu had called and told them our names the day before, and they were able to quickly craft these incredible works of art for us.
Weavers are skilled and quickly pass the shuttle back and forth through the warp threads.
The heddles are controlled by peddles that the Ewe use with their feet.
The warps can stretch for yards and are attached to a rock that slides closer as the weaving is rolled up.
Examples of different Ewe Kete patterns that were being woven in Agbozume when we visited.
I spent much of the long car ride to Agbozume looking out the window and marveling at the many small villages we passed through. I saw people selling fresh fruit, grains, even flower pots on the sides of the road. It would be quiet for miles with only farmlands and fields and then suddenly a town center would emerge with the bustle of daily life .
On the way back from Agbozume, we stopped for snacks. A local treat that is made by Ewe people in the Volta region is ayigbe biscuits, made from cassava starch, coconut, and sugar. The biscuits are thin but firm, and they are typically stamped into patterns with 6 to 12 biscuits stuck together. I really enjoyed the taste, and there were more than enough to go around!
Before we left for Kokrobitey, we stopped at a market that was in the middle of preparing for the Kli-Adzima & Mama Vena Traditional Music Festival Jam at Mama Vena’s Shrine in Ablotsivia-Klikor. Locals dressed in their finest outfits to celebrate and honor the Divine Priest Ceremony, an important spiritual and cultural observance.