Equipment of the 13th Soldier

The Third Bristol County Militia Regiment wanted their men to have the following at muster: "a good firearm with steel or iron ramrod, and spring to retain the same, a worm, priming wire and brush, and a bayonet fitted to his gun, a tomahawk or hatchet, a pouch containing a cartridge box that will hold fifteen rounds of cartridges at least, a hundred of buckshot, a jack knife, and tow for wadding, six flints, one pound of powder, forty leaden balls fitted to his gun, a knapsack and blanket, a canteen or wooden bottle suffiecient to hold one quart.

(Continental Journal and weekly adviser, January 22, 1778)

Another early company document mentions : a powderhorn, a bullet pouch to contain 40 leaden balls, a knapsack, a canteen, a firearm of good worth, a haversack,a belt, a good pair of overalls (Mass Archives, Boston Gazette May 26, 1777)

"List of Men & accoutrements of Each man [illegible words] Regiment in Bristol County [Massachusetts]" in a private collection. Its dated 1776 - but no month or year:

"Men including officers - 678, Firearms - 446, Ramrods - 129, Springs - 9, Worms - 160,

Priming wires - 193, Brushes - 138, Bayonets - 175, Scabbards - 142, Belts - 181, Cutting swords & hatchets - 255, Cartridge box and powder - 274, Buckshot - 10373, Jackknives - 403, Tow for men - 258

flints for men - 2084, pounds powder - 244 1/2, Bullets - 11934, Knapsack - 365, Blankets - 386

Canteens - 295"

A deserter was described in the 1 June Constitutional Gazette in a brown coat, old hat flapped down, checked shirt, black breeches and white stockings. (Uniforms of the Continental Army, Katcher)

Firelocks/Muskets

1st or 2nd Model British Brown Bess musket with bayonet

Used by British troops, this was the most common musket of the Revolutionary War period. This musket was issued to local miltias in the colonies for purposes of self defense by the King George III, prior to the American Revolution. Shown with the triangluar bayonet, this was a formidable smoothbore musket with a .75 caliber bore, which delivered single balls, or balls with shot. As with all smoothbore arms, it was accurate up to roughly 50 yards.

1763 Pattern Charleville musket

Used by French and American troops, primarily later in the war, this smoothbore musket came with a slightly smaller bore, .69 caliber. Although not pictured, this musket was also fitted with a similar triangular shaped bayonet, which slipped over the muzzle, and locked in with the lug on the barrel.

Civilian Fowler or Fusil

Often, militia members carried their own personal firearms in the Revolutionary War. Much like the military arms of the day, these were smoothbore barrels, which were typically a smaller barrel, normally around 62 cal. Most civilian arms came with wooden ramrods. These were also fitted with smaller flintlock ignitions. A good choice for civilian impressions.

Civilian Doglock

During the early days of the colonies, overseas trading had extended times, therefore, nothing was wasted. This is an example of an "American Throw-together" smoothbore musket made from parts of other broken muskets. This musket is a combination of English and French parts and styles. The lock on this musket was produced in the earliest part of the 18th century called a "doglock". Unlike the mid 18th century locks, such as on the Brown Bess, Charleville, or Fowlers, this has the dog on the outside to secure it during loading at half-cock. Note the hook and slot configuration on the closeup. This musket is currently being used in the field at reenactments, so it has been fitted with a flash guard and hammer stall for safety purposes.

Committee Of Safety Musket

Committee of Safety arms typically were copied from existing designs, including the British issue “Brown Bess” musket. An excellent choice for Milita portrayals.

Circa 1775 English Colonial Committee of Safety (colonial war council) muskets such as this example, rarely have their maker name on them if manufactured during wartime, since this was a treasonous act. These American-made muskets are essentially copies of the British Brown Bess, “having the same style of lock, stock, and .75 caliber smoothbore barrels with pinned mountings.

These colonial guns symbolized the fervor of “Minutemen” for American liberty and were originally the Continental Army’s shoulder arm in the war against Britain and King George III. Eventually, French muskets became the standard U.S. arm due to their greater numbers. As the new States came together to form a single unit, Committee of Safety muskets “spoke out for freedom”. —Dr. William L. Roberts. THE AMERICAN LIBERTY COLLECTION; #22

Cartridge Boxes and Hunting Bags

Cartridge Boxes

As required, each militia man was equipped with a means of carrying cartridges, or powder and lead ball shot. This type, in either black or brown thick leather, was worn over the shoulder, and was fitted with a drilled wooden block to receive pre-rolled cartridges of powder and ball. Belly boxes were also used, which were suspended by a waist belt. Using pre-rolled cartridges enabled the troops to keep up a rapid rate of fire in the field.

Hunting Bags and Powder Horns

As an alternative to cartridge boxes, some individuals carried civilian leather hunting bags, in conjuction with powder horns, when cartridge boxes weren't available. The bags were used to carry shot, flints, powder measures, and musket tools, and the powder horns were used to carry loose powder. Made from oxen, or cow horns, were fitted with a plug and stopper. The horn kept the powder dry as the horn is essentially waterproof. Many of the horns were elaborately engraved as shown in the photo. Using the bag and horn was much slower than using pre-rolled cartridges in battle. For modern day reenactments, hunting bags must be fitted with a wood cartridge block as above, and powder horns must be carried empty for safety purposes.

Sacks

Knapsacks

Knapsacks were often used on the march for items such as extra clothing and bedding. Blanket rolls could be tied to the top of the sack. The most common fabric used for these on the rebel side is a coarse hemp linen. Many times the exterior of the knapsacks were painted to help waterproof the sack. These were worn on the back, with two straps and could hold a considerable amount of goods. Preferable for early war impressions rather than haversacks.

Haversack

A typical Revolutionary War period Haversack. Made from linen, with a single strap this was used to carry provisions or food on the march. These were worn diagonally on the soldier and could have anywhere between 1-3 buttons to hold the flap closed. These were typically made with household fabrics for the militiamen, and during the Rev War the Continental Army period, these were typically natural linen color. Best for late war, post 1777, continental solider impressions, not used for early war impressions.

Canteens

Wooden Canteens

Many Rev War participants carried wooden canteens, due to their durablity and volume. Made with wooden staves, much like the larger wooden barrels, were wrapped with white oak to keep the staves together as the wood swelled. These were often lined with Brewer's Pitch, or beeswax to help keep the water inside. Fitted with a linen or leather strap which was fastened to the circumference of the canteen, these were worn diagonally across the body to make their water easily accessible.

Kidney Canteens

These were made from metal, either tin or copper sheets, where the metal is cut and soldered together at the seams. Worn in the same manner as the wood canteens, these were hung by rope, using the four rings on the sides with rope or woolen braid. Fitted with a wood stopper, usually a lathe turned shape, these were a durable canteen. Due to the possibility of rust on the inside, especially the tin versions, these were lined with brewer's pitch or beeswax as well.

Gourd Canteens

Gourds had many uses in colonial america, including canteens, bowls, water dippers, and storage uses. This particular gourd is called a bottle gourd, although they come in different shapes. The gourds must be drilled, cleaned, and sealed with either brewer's pitch or beeswax inside, and have a wooden stopper fitted to them. The exterior is sealed with beeswax. They are suspended by forming wet rawhide around the outer edges, and suspended with leather or linen straps, and worn diagonally as the wooden and kidney canteens.

Sundry Items

Flash Guard

This is a required piece of equipment in order to field with your musket. This attaches to your frizzen screw, and deflects the flame which comes out of the musket's touch hole upward, rather than sideways. This prevents the person standing next to you in the musket line from being injured, and inadvertently catching fire.

Hammer Stall

Another required piece of equipment for anyone fielding an musket. The large leather portion is slipped over the frizzen to prevent accidental discharges if the musket is dropped or unintentionally triggered when loaded. The lanyard is tied off to the musket to prevent loss. The leather prevents the flint from sparking into the pan.

Folding Jack Knife

A requirement for militia troops, this English style jack knife was common with the troops. The grip could be inlaid with horn, bone, wood, or antler, with a 3-4 inch blade.

Tomahawk or Axe

Militia men were given the option of carrying an axe, or tomahawk, or cutting sword. The tomahawk head is formed by folding over a heated piece of steel. It's then suspended on a wooden handle which is soaked in water to swell to fit the head. These were carried in a waistbelt. These were used in battles and also around camp for cutting firewood. Note that for modern day reenactments, all edged weapons must be sheathed in leather when brought out onto the field for safety purposes.

Cutting Sword, or Short Sword

Generally carried by officers, cutting swords were locally made by the local blacksmiths. The length of the sword varied, normally from 2' to 3'. Worn at the side by a waistbelt and frog in a scabbard, in lieu of a tomahawk. Once again, edged weapons are to remained sheathed during reenactments.

Whisk and Pick

A small, but necessary tool when on the field. As the firelock discharges multiple times, it begins to foul the lock and touch hole, and prevents the musket from firing. The brush is used to clean the pan and frizzen, while the pick is used to open the touch hole as it becomes clogged. This particular style has a U-shaped area which can be used to fasten to a button on your waistcoat for quick use.

Extra Flints

It's always a good idea to carry extra flints onto the field. Flints can dull or break unpredictably, preventing your musket from firing, so be sure you carry extras in your kit. These can be changed out in the field if need be. When purchasing flints, be sure that they are the appropriate size for your musket. These are knapped by hand and will have slight variations in them. Military arms and civilian muskets often take different size flints.

Musket Tool

While musket tools came in many shapes and sizes, they came in quite useful in the field. Generally made in wrought iron by local blacksmiths, this particular style can be used to knap flints, clean touch holes, and is also used as screwdriver for replacing your flint, or working on your lock. Be sure to include one in your kit for field use.

Personal Camp Equipment

18th C. Style Mug

An indispensible camp item. Redware, or Earthenware ceramic, as shown here, or salt-fired stoneware mugs are useful for both hot & cold liquids, and if slightly large, can also double as a bowl to save space in your camp box. While lead-free pewter tankards are acceptable, they will burn your lips when containing hot liquids, and also tend to develop leaks. Redware, glazed with an Albany Slip glaze was abundant in New England in the 18th C. as it was primarily manufactured in Albany, NY., during the 18th c.

Knife, Fork, & Plate

You'll have many choices when it comes to these items. Plates can be made in lead-free pewter, redware ceramic, or wood. The two-pronged fork, as shown, is period correct for 18th C. period portrayals at encampments. The handles can be made from bone, or wood. Your choice of these pieces should reflect on your chosen persona.

Bowl, or Porringer, and Spoon

You'll be needing a bowl for encampments as well. Bowls can be made from period-correct style ceramic, or wood. Porringers are typically made from lead-free pewter. Note the handle on the side of the porringer; this is used to keep you from being burned when handling hot items. Additionally, you'll need a spoon for encampments. Spoons can be made from wood, horn (as shown), or lead-free pewter.

Lantern

A nescessity to assist you in navigating your way around camp at night while socializing. There are many types of lanterns available, made from wood, tin, and copper. Be sure to bring an adequate supply of beeswax candles with you. Check on our Sutlers page to see the appropriate and various styles, or build your own. Since these use candles, be cautious when using these around tents which sometimes may have hay bedding inside them.