WORK
WORK
The gallery owners wanted to kick the artists out of their galleries. So it wasn't good for Lambert to represent them at first. Eleanor wanted to make things better. She went to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and suggested that they might want to have young artists or promote a Modern Wing. They were not interested. That idea prompted her to gather a group of friends and found MOMA.
She later became the Whitney's first Press Director and suggested that the museum could become known if it participated or had a pavilion at the Venice Biennale in Italy. The Biennale was intended to disseminate and promote contemporary art through exhibitions and research in all artistic disciplines: visual arts, architecture, film, dance, music and theater. Of course, now we cannot think of the Venice Biennale without the iconic American Pavilion.
Back then, there was a lot of drama and a story behind from the Venice Biennale.
George Hurst, wealthy businessman and U.S. senator, agreed to underwrite the cost of shipping for the hundred works that The Whitney Museum sent to Venice. When Eleanor arrived, the set also included a portrait of Mary Anne Davis, that was not by an American artist, but of his mistress. It was the picture displayed when walking into the rotunda of the American Pavilion. The Head of the Whiney told Eleanor to make sure that painting got taken down. George Hurst’s right-hand man, Seymour Burke was sent to demand Eleanor to leave the painting. Eleanor wasn't goint to changing her mind. She wanted to send a press release to all the papers in New York saying that it was taken down. Her henchman had already paid off Mussolini and the Count of Venice, Volpi, who actually had a lot of power at the Venice Biennale. However, the painting remained up until the second to the last day. In the meantime, Eleanor didn’t know how but a press release was leaked to the New York Times saying that it was taken down. There was a cover story in Time Magazine how there were strained diplomatic relations between Italy and The United States over this matter.
The Whitney was very embarrassed but it was only one or two and a half years old and was definitely put on the map. This aggravating man by the name of Seymour Birkin ,after the incident married Eleanor Lambert. Both got divorced and remarried. He was the first person who stood up to Eleanor and probably one of the last. He also claimed that he hated her turbant when he first saw her.
She did everything she could to get them commissions and when they couldn't pay her with money, they paid her with art. Her house was filled with Noguchi sculptures. She was the first person Noguchi offered that for every three commissions he’d give her a sculpture. She said she wanted one of herself, but not in bronze, she wanted it in wood. Nowadays, Noguchi is known for wood. She always expressed her opinions to her clients; she felt that by giving them ideas, she was a co-partner.
One day in the early 30s a woman by the name of Adele Simpson came to Miss Lambert and said “I love what you do for artists, how have you made them famous? I’m a fashion designer and American fashion designers don’t get a lot of press owned. The only people we hear about are these European designers, French mostly. Eleanor thought that she could easily represent her. The process was very very hard because in the United States the garment industry was really a rag trade. The manufacturers were interested in taking French designers and Italian designs and knocking them off or they didn't care who their designers were. It was just about profits. Whereas the French designers had very high-level ateliers and pampering salons, hundreds of fittings, wonderful images. Overall, it was very different.
In 1935, Miss Lambert began working with Adele Simpson and Lily Dache. She also began working with the department stores and was the only person who was a publicist for fashion designers. Nowadays, you think there are hundreds of people who are publicists for fashion designers but at the time, she was the only one. She was the first and only publicist for artists and fashion designers. The French did not believe in having a publicist. In those times there were no blogs, not a lot of magazines, just Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, who focused on high-fashion. Their editors would go to Europe, when there was a new collection, see it in a showroom, they would report on it and they rarely included anything to do with American fashion.
To understand the cause of success, let's go back 10 years; something happened during World War I that started changing this.
WORLD WAR I (1914-1918)
During World War I, when all the manufacturers were switched for the war efforts, there were some women who owned their own shops. These women were still making clothes. They had stockpiled fabric or had access to fabric that they didn’t have to buy. Women were working in factories just as in World War II. Women had everything rationed so they couldn’t buy anything but they had money. Women started to buy clothes from these women who had these independent stores.
WORLD WAR II. (1939-1945)
1938. The United States government had started making provisions. They realized that in World War I, women bought a lot of clothes, so they didn't want to switch the whole war effort over to the manufacturer of army equipment. The government wanted to keep the economy going. They knew that women would probably buy clothes. What happened was that the lady garment manufacturers union and the government came together for a unique cause.
1939. They established The New York Dress Institute, which was about promoting women to buy American dresses as a way to raise money. The 0.5% of all sales would go into a fund. They used the money to promote women to buy American dresses.
Their first effort was a propaganda campaign that was completely ridiculous, created by the J. Walter Thompson’s agency, targeting the female consumer. They had a billboard of Martha Washington wearing a brand new dress standing 16 ft tall at Valley Forge and a dying soldier with blood dripping out of his mouth saying “at least I can die in peace. Our first lady looks fabulous”. An outrageous and inadequate way of promoting.
That same year, The New York Dress Institute asked for Eleanor’s advice. She addressed her opinion about including whole collections, rather than just a few dresses. She claimed it was going to be more interesting to the press. They signed her on immediately. After giving her idea, it prompted her to mind, how she would persuade women to like the idea instead of the propaganda they were using without success. The Best Dress List.
The war had closed down what was called The Best Dressed List, which was based in Paris. She snatched it away and claimed it had been dead for a year. And renamed it, The International Best Dress List. All the women on the list were wearing clothes from the New York Dress Institute. All Miss Lambert’s clients. The list became extremely popular right from the beginning.
The second idea she had was to call publishers from local papers all around the country. She had this idea of what American Fashion could be. She had always believed that it wasn´t French fashion, just a different kind of fashion. And that it deserved its rightful place at the table amongst Italians and the French. Eleanor contacted her friend, a young editor at Harper’s Bazaar, Diana Vreeland, about this idea. Vreeland tapped her hand and said “Oh, dear, you’re such an amateur”. Miss Lambert would prove her wrong 40 years later.
Miss Lambert called publishers of newspapers around the country because Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue were not interested in American Fashion. Eleanor asked the newspapers if they would be interested in getting more ads in their paper.
She described the idea as editors from all over the U.S, writing about American designers, the things they were carrying at the department stores and talking about seeing all these things in New York. The publishers said They couldn't afford the expenses of flying to the city. She made them an offer as she had now a big sum of money from the New York Dress Institute at her disposal.Overall, Lambert was looking for people who could write about fashion.
In 1942, the idea came into life, being the first Fashion Week: 53 editors, from 53 newspapers outside of New York were part of the show. Very few were fashion writers but when they left, they became fashion writers. They were very indebted to Miss Lambert.
She took them to Broadway shows, introduced them to her friends, who were actors and actresses. She took them to lunch. They met with designers. It was a very packed schedule, show after show. She offered them exclusives. Suddenly, the next Fashion Week, which happened six months later, had over 100 editors.
Suddenly, Eleanor Lambert who didn’t have support in 1942, a year later, in January 1943, was one of the most powerful people with these editors. She asked them for their opinion about who should be on the best dress list. She made a juried system and they felt very impartial about it. More and more people, publishers and papers sent her editors to New York. They all were very grateful to Eleanor Lambert and her power and influence grew and every designer wanted to work with her because they could get their images in those papers. They could participate during fashion week. She was really racing the visibility of American fashion here in America and she took advantage of the war. She didn't stop there.
She was asked to meet with a man named Groven Walen, prominent politician, businessman, and public relations guru in New York City during the 1930s and 1940s. He was as The Major in New York City. He didn’t like public speaking and he was called The Red Man. However,you couldn't be elected president without knowing Walen. He also had a little side business called the New York World’s Fair, which was a World's profit. He asked Eleanor Lambert to do women's fashion shows. She saw the poster, mainly inspired by the triangle. She had models pop out of pyramids, which was very amusing and fun for people in 1939.
Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
After the war Groven Walen had another job. He was going to be chairman in addition to his official greeters. He was very involved with Coty Fragrances. He asked her for his ideas. She suggested an awards program called The COTY Awards, also known as the America Fashion Critics Awards. The COTY Awards existed for 40 years. They are today known to be the Oscars of Fashion. However, they no longer exist.
This is Gracie Mansion, the official residence of the mayor of New York City. Eleanor was still very young, around 35 years old. When she teamed up with Grover, a very established person, she was able to put on spectacular things and really race the visibility with fresh ideas. With the dynamic duo's experience, they really pushed what was happening in America
Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
The COTY Awards took place at the new Governor’s residence since it was hosted by the mayor. The object at the background of the picture was the Whitney, the official statue of the COTY Awards. Eleanor Lambert modeled her American Fashion Critics Awards, just like the Academy Awards, which was around 11 years old at the time. She had a jury system, which were the out-of-town editors. She suddenly had an enormous amount of power. All at the same time. She started Fashion Week, The Best Dressed List, and the COTY Awards, all at the same time.
A photograph of the winners of the first 10 years, the different outfits they made. Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
Another idea President Roosevelt had started the March of Dimes, who was looking for a fundraising event. Eleanor Lambert contacted Elaine Whitelaw about a fundraising event and it listed all the ideas that Eleanor had. They had a lot of support from President Roosevelt because he started the March of Dimes.
Roosevelt's personal struggle with polio led to the creation of the National Foundation for Infantile Paralysis, better known as March of Dimes. They pioneered vaccine research leading to the eradication of polio in the U.S., and later expanded their mission to address issues of birth defects. President Roosevelt was also best friend’s with Grover Whalen and François Coty, French perfumery, entrepreneur and politician.
The New York Times called the March of Dimes shows the Most Spectacular Fashion Show ever created. It was one of the number one things on television in the 1950s. It was also on radio in the 40s and went on until the 60s. It was people from high society, from Broadway, from Hollywood, who participated. The sets were designed by young artists. Some not so young but new, for instance, Grandma Moses and Salvador Dali, Eleanor’s clients. It was held at the Waldorf Astoria. It was quite an event that raised 1 million dollars.
March of Dimes. Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
Marylyn Monroe with Sandy and Linda Lou at the March of Dimes. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
Going back to 1939, she had talked to the MET about having a modern wing and they refused. After being successful in major projects, she asked again. In 1948, The MET said yes, founding The Costume Institute. She organizing a midnight dinner, which is still the largest fundraising gala in New York, The Costume Institute Gala, now known as the prestigious MET Gala, held annually on the first Monday of May.
Eleanor was also great friends with the duchess of Windsor, socialite and wife of King Edward VIII. Eleanor convinced her to give her wedding dress to the MET because the British wouldn’t want it after her divorce scandal. Their intention to marry and her status as a divorcée caused a constitutional crisis that led to King Edward's abdication.
This is an example of how Eleanor used everything she could to promote American Fashion. She wasn’t just promoting her clients because they were clients. They were her clients because she believed in their talent. She would not represent people who she didn’t believe in. If you didn’t have money, she didn’t care about that. She did like to get paid but it wasn't imperative. If you have talent, she was there to promote you. If you didn’t have talent it didn’t matter how much money you had. She believed in talent and she gave people her opinion. She didn’t care if you were the president, or king, queen. She is most known to the public, as the person who oversaw The Best Dressed List. Because of that, people almost killed themselves to be on the list.
Dresses worn for the first MET Gala. Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
The economy of Europe was decimated and these French designers who were in the ivory towers, just waiting for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar to come to them. Mainbocher was a fashion designer who was from Chicago. He was the Editor of French Vogue and later became a fashion designer in France. The first American to show couture. He came back to the U.S and decided not to go to Paris after the war. His clients came to New York to get fittings and people started realizing, “I don’t need to go to Europe”. It would have seemed the opposite would have happened, that now after the war, there were planes and it was faster to get to Europe.
A lot of people did use planes, but their lifestyles changed. The ways of the aristocracy in Europe were different after World War II. Americans are coming more into their own and accepting their own place in an American way of life.
European fashion designers came to Eleanor Lambert and wanted her to promote their work. Those were young designers. The older one didn't do that. Christian Dior was a young designer, who was launching his line. He chose New York and Paris at the same time, to present “The New Look”, which is considered to be the most successful fashion launch of all time. Later, the French asked Miss Lambert to help them create the Paris Fashion Week, later the Italians and finally the British. Miss Lambert helped them all to establish their shows.
In 1959, she was contacted by the government. The United States formed a unique partnership between the State Department and the Department of Commerce. They had something called American Designer Showings. They went all over the world to promote American Design.
Here is Miss Lambert with her models arriving in Indianapolis. They went all over the United States. They went to Mongolia and Japan, New Zealand and Australia and Europe. They did not go to France. Miss Lambert did not think that the U.S was ready to go up against the French. After the war from the 40s until 70s, Miss Lambert was all over the world. Promoting American fashion, creating trade shows and events.
Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
Here is the Moscow exhibition that Miss Lambert produced. She also produced fashion shows for it. It was a geodesic dome, which of course in 1959, was extremely modern.
Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
This was a photo of the cover of Life Magazine. These models were all wearing Lilly Dache. This is the famous kitchen table debate, between Nixon and Khrushhev, in the kitchen area of the geodesic dome which all served great publicity. Muscovites came out in droves to see all the displays and exhibitions including this fashion show that Miss Lambert produced.
She also looked up for everyone. Starting in the 1940s at her COTY Awards show and her Fashion Press Week Shows, she booked all the models. She was always including what she called black models. She was always making sure every lookbook have black models. People would say Ives Saint Laurent was the first designer to use black women. Well, that was Miss Lambert’s client and she convinced him.
In the picture, the model in the front is a black model. During the show, muscovites were shocked to see a black woman on stage. The picture also shows Miss Lambert sitting at the stage, directing the models.
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In the early 60s, a man who was elected to be president and his wife, who was rather unknown, sent a letter to Miss Lambert saying, “Eleanor my name is Jackie Kennedy. I am about to become the new First Lady and I've been shopping for all my inauguration clothes. However, Women’s Wear Daily is saying that I’m buying French fashion”. Miss Lambert wrote a note in the letter for her secretary saying “well it’s true because Givenchy is my client and he said you were in his studio”. Jackie was wearing Givenchy and tearing the labels out and putting on other labels.
Lambert said she had to wear American clothes and that she had the perfect designer for her. His name, Halston and he designs at Bergdorf’s. She claimed he could make all of her things. She wore a Halston pillbox hat to The Presidential election Day.
Source: CNN. Jackie's Kennedy pillbox hat at the 1961 presidential inauguration.
Miss Lambert helped all the First Ladies back to Eleanor Roosevelt. Introducing them to her clients. She helped Grace Kelly plan her wedding; organized and created the whole publicity for her wedding, including putting her wedding outfit together.
During the 60s, there was a new senator for New York, Jacob K. Javits. A very well-known and respected senator. Jackie Kennedy expressed to Miss Lambert her desire to start a Council on the arts, like in France where they would really honor art. Eleanor was thrilled about the idea. At the same time, she was still working for The New York Dress Institute, who were preparing Fashion Week still. There was only one problem, Eleanor never liked manufacturers. She thought they were only out for a profit. The garment manufacturers wanted to have Fashion Week at a certain time, pressuring Miss Lambert and the designers to have it. They responded no as they didn’t even got their fabric. Sadly, twelve of the designers defected.
Eleanor decided to start an organization that would be run by fashion designers for fashion designers. That was the creation of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. What precipitated that idea was that she was working with Senator Javits to start the Council on the Arts. Senator Javits advised to include fashion into arts. Eleanor didn’t think fashion was art per se, but considered it a true way to promote America.
She started the Council of Fashion designers of America as this way of having fashion included as a way of art. To allow fashion designers set their own schedule for Fashion Week, to control their own destiny. Also, to serve as a trade organization to promote American Fashion to foreign countries. She used everything she could.
Some of the Republic senators were refusing to spend a bill on art. Lambert promoted a Fashion Show to Republican Senators wifes extending the idea that their husbands weren’t promoting it. The next day all the senators came on board and thought it was a good bill. Eleanor was asked to testify before the Senate.
It was an outstanding testimony in 1963 where she expressed that you should dress by someone who designs who is near you, who understands your life. Americans are artists.
Miss Lambert not only testified in Congress, but there is a telegram by Congress President Johnson. When he signed the bill into law, he handed the pen to Eleanor Lambert, not to Jackie Kennedy. He knew she had worked so hard to make the bill happen. He appointed her to the Twenty-six Person Committee. In addition, she was the only person ever to serve on the National Council and the National Endowment of the Arts.
Bill Blass, who was Lambert’s client and the president of the CFDA, asked Eleanor to create the Council of Fashion Designer’s Awards, which were inaugurated in 1981. After 40 years, The COTY Awards ended and the CFDA Awards emerged. She came back to sculpture, a personal passion she had, reminding her of her college years. She had Ernest Trova, American surrealist, pop art painter and sculptor, to design the award trophy for the CFDA Awards. This accomplishment has been given since 1981 to fashion designers at the gala.
Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
Trova Statue for CFDA Awards. Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
This is the only surviving program anyone knows about the Versailles Exhibition. It was found in Miss Lambert’s files; blue silk book. The Versailles Exhibition was the moment that Eleanor Lambert decided she would take the show to France. She had got her all around the world. She understood the cultural moment and saw that society had changed due to the shifting after the war. People were more practicing in dressing, women now were in the workforce. Eleanor understood now was the time to showcase American Design.
Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
They announced to her that the Queen’s Opera House at the Palace of Versailles was redecorated and restored and wanted to have an event. She suggested a showing, which was truly a contest between five American designers and five French. She enlisted the help of the most grand over the top person in France, Marie-Hélène de Rothschild, who was a French socialité who became a doyenne of Parisian high-society and whose family owned a bank dynasty. The French had the most over the top show. Their presentation took 2.5 hours long. Josephine Baker with the opening number. Pierre Cardin had a spaceship that took off on stage and Ungaro had a cart that was pulled by a rhinoceros. Christian Dior had a crazy horse cabaret, which is the 1973 version of strippers. They wore fur coats but no clothes. That was the problem, they forgot the clothes.
Eleanor Lambert was holding the purse strings for the American Designers: Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, Anne Klein, and Stephen Burrow. They were all focused on separates and sportswear. They presented a thirty-three minute pre-tapped music presentation where it was all about the show. Half of the 32 models of the American designers were black, who Miss Lambert felt represented what was happening on the streets.
The French audience went berserk. The show ended with Steven Burrows, these colors no one had ever seen before; the ease of modern life that was really reflected in this moment. The audience went crazy. Everyone started throwing their programas to the air. Lambert’s interpretation of that action was that the French felt embarrassed and that everyone thought the French looked like idiots. That was the moment when the French started to copy the American way. They started doing separates.
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When the World’s Fair came back and was not a private enterprise, the city of New York organized The World’s Fair in 1964, considered the most successful World’s Fair of all times. They asked Miss Lambert to be on the Board of Directors, so she was very involved in planning the World’s Fair and getting people there. The goal was 75 million people, but only 53 million people attended. Miss Lambert set continuous fashion shows, pavilions, and formal fashion shows. More people saw fashion in 1964 and 1965 at the World’s Fair than any other place. She had over-the-top grand exhibitions. She was doing everything she could to promote American Fashion.
Source. Book Eleanor Lambert: Still Here
This is a very interesting photo. She helped Truman Capote, author of the legendary 'Breakfast at Tiffany's, plan the black and white ball. Truman wanted to have a party in his own honor. Miss Lambert suggested trying to honor someone else. The person chosen was Katherine Graham, one of the first female publishers of an American newspaper.
Miss Lambert’s story of this particular day was that she didn’t have time to get her own hair done. She was promoting clients. With a very busy day, she plopped on a turban and grabbed her mask, hoping to get to the party at the right time. Low and behold she just entered behind Mia Farrow and Frank Sinatra and it was the biggest media frenzy of all times. There is an expanded version of this photo where you can see the paparazzi.
In this picture, off to the right is Truman Capote, wearing his eyeglasses. What’s behind Mia Farrow with the butterfly mask is Miss Lambert and her white turban, but that is a mirror. f Mia Farrow was shaking hands with President Johnson.
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This is one of the most well known portraits of Eleanor. This was her, always working. She always had two phone lines and a picture of her husband, who died very young at the age of 53. She always had it on her desk. Cecil Beaton nailed it. It so identifies her as a midwest . She was very focused on what she wanted to do, what she was good at doing and she never stopped. At her memorial service John Loring, who was the design Director at Tiffany & Co company, a firm that was her client for 70 years, expressed that she always found a way to make things possible. In her mind she believed it should happen. She died in 2003 at age 100, she was one of the most influential women in the American fashion industry.