Who in their right mind would crave something bitter? Out of all the flavors (even umami who snuck its way into popular media), I would definitely choose bitter dead last.
I think of myself accidentally zesting too much off a lemon (the pith tastes horrible, I learned the hard way) and Ma ma making random green vegetables (you've probably blown on a dandelion for a wish, but have you cooked their leaves?), and I gag a little bit.
On the other hand, I think of some other foods with the same bitter taste. For bitter melon, stir-fried with some pork belly and pickled vegetables, the bitterness adds to the hearty flavor profile. Especially, for my almost-daily ice-shaken espresso, bitterness brings a mature contrast with vanilla syrup.
I've seen (tasted) that when bitter becomes bittersweet, you get a complex combination that can really improve your taste bud experience. The same influx of confusing feelings comes with the bittersweet emotion.
When I cheered at my last high school football game after a fun three years, when my best friend moved away in Kindergarten after making great memories, when my brother left for college... bittersweet sums up these common fusions of joy and melancholy.
Unlike other emotions, the levels of bittersweet range between two opposite feelings, in this case regretful and content as I show in this Food Pyramid. In between are emotions that encapsulate aspects of each side. A mocha (coffee and chocolate) Swiss roll puts together the flavors of rich chocolate, sweet sugar, and bitter espresso to portray bittersweet.
My inspiration for this food comes from the Roblox game Restaurant Tycoon 2, my obsession during quarantine. Although I had fun playing video games with my friends staying home all day, I have now moved on for bigger and better. This bittersweet dish fits in with that bittersweet feeling.
Swiss Roll from Restaurant Tycoon 2
My food "pyramid" representing the levels of the emotion bittersweet and corresponding foods
Finished Swiss roll
In With the Fire on High by Elizabeth Acevedo, the book we are reading in class, protagonist Emoni describes her traumatic encounter with Tyrone. While making plantains after this she "cooked them until they almost burned and the sugar turned bitter," an unexpected result for a skilled chef such as herself (44).
While plantains cooked in sugar are usually sweet by themselves, the burning of these ingredients parallels the scorched emotions Emoni harbors. These emotions overtake her actions so much that even her food is affected accordingly.
For this mocha Swiss roll, the bitterness of the espresso also seeps into however much sugar there is in the cake, mirroring the emotion of bittersweet.
First half of the cake batter (everything but meringue)
Adding sugar into meringue, whipping until stiff peaks
Baking the cake
I've baked a Swiss roll cake before, but it was purely chocolate-flavored. This recipe particularly uses that coffee-chocolate combination to be more complex and suit the theme better.
I made the sponge cake by folding the flour-yolk-chocolate-coffee-and-almost-everything-else mixture in with the egg white meringue. This creates a soft, bouncy cake that I've noticed is common in Asian cafés. After baking, I rolled the cake up with parchment paper to prevent sticking and let that cool.
In the meantime, I set up a double boiler on the stove to melt chocolate and heavy cream together. I used way too small of a bowl so a classmate gave me a towel to transfer the cream. After it was melted, I put the bowl in the walk-in for a while to cool. At this point, I washed the whole class' dishes a few times over, and helped with making mac and cheese. The cream took a LONG time to cool down.
Finally, I whipped the cream up with vanilla extract and some instant espresso. I had the bowl on the stand mixer for maybe ten minutes and it hadn't whipped up much, so I thought I would be safe for ten seconds getting a plate. I was wrong. When I came back to the mixer, the cream had become a little grainy, but luckily it was still fine to frost.
I unrolled my cake and quickly spread a layer of cream all over. Then I rolled it up tightly and cut the ends off. I was a little disappointed that the cake had sagged into less of a cylinder and more of an oblong triangular prism, but it was still pretty cute. Then I sliced it into eight slices and plated the roll cake.
Tasting the "ugly" ends I cut off, I was surprised that the cake really wasn't that sweet. This fit the bittersweet emotion really well, I felt. A classmate was also surprised, telling me it tasted almost like rum. We don't have any alcohol in the kitchen, so I thought it must be the vanilla extract giving it that taste, also making the sweet more bitter.
Double boiler with chocolate and heavy cream
Whipping up the filling cream
Spreading the filling on the cake before rolling
ingredients
CAKE:
50 ml whole fat milk
5 tsp Dutch processed cocoa powder
1 tsp instant espresso powder
20 g granulated sugar
45 g cake flour
¼ tsp baking soda
½ tsp cream of tartar
¼ tsp sea salt
4 egg yolks
40 ml vegetable oil
½ tsp vanilla extract
4 egg whites
50 g granulated sugar
¼ tsp cream of tartar
290 ml whipping cream
120 g semi-sweet chocolate
1 ½ tsp instant espresso powder
1 tsp vanilla extract
Recipe adapted from Gail Ng (teak & thyme)
Directions
Cake
Line 8 x 12" rectangular cake pan with parchment paper. Preheat oven to 325 F.
Heat milk and cocoa powder in microwave for 10 sec. Whisk until combined.
In a large mixing bowl, add sugar, baking soda, first portion of cream of tartar and salt. Sift in cake flour, stir to combine.
Add yolks, oil, instant espresso, vanilla extract and chocolate milk mixture. Stir to combine until fully incorporated, do not over mix.
In a clean and dry mixing bowl, whip egg whites on slow speed until frothy, add second portion of cream of tartar. Increase speed to medium, once the whites become opaque and bubble size have tightened up, add sugar a little bit at a time. Increase speed to med-high, whip until stiff peaks.
Gently fold ⅓ of the meringue into the chocolate-flour mixture. Once incorporated, fold in the rest of the meringue. Do not stir. Use batter immediately.
Pour into lined cake pan, spread out the batter evenly with an angled spatula. Tap the pan on the counter to release large air pockets.
Bake for 12-14 min until a toothpick pulls out clean and cake springs back in the center.
Flip cake over onto cooling the rack, gently remove paper. Let cool 5 min (not fully).
Place a piece of new parchment paper on top. Flip the cake over and start rolling, allowing the parchment paper to be in between the folds. Let cool.
Cream
Chop up chocolate into small pieces. Place chocolate in a small pot with the cream. Heat over medium heat until chocolate is fully melted. Do not boil.
Let cool to room temperature then place in the fridge to chill.
Beat mixture on low speed while increasing to medium. Stop when stiff. Mix in espresso mixture and vanilla.
Assembly
Very carefully unroll the cake.
Gently add one even layer of the chocolate whipped cream onto the unrolled cake.
Very gently roll the cake back up using the parchment paper to help push the cake onto itself. Cut off sides and present.