F Block Mosquito Coil

Examples And Opinions

This designs colour scheme is filled with saturated colours that go well with eachother. The design is well made with an acsessable hole to put in the mosquito coil. The hole on top of the mountain is also a good add on to the design to slightly symbolize the mountains smoke. However the inside of the design may be a little difficult to clean out because of the only hole open.

This design is not one of my favourite designs personally, because of how "flat" or how bland it looks. This also looks some-what unstable with the curverd design or the narrow thin base. The curved edges may also not be able to keep the ashes securely and it will end up blowing out eventually.

This design is suitable for those who like to keep minimal or classy. However in my opinion I think that the accessibility to put the mosquito coil in and out is not the best. Due to the open design or how light it looks there may be a few problems with the wind.

This is personally one of my favorite from the rest of the examples. The design is very suitable for a kids or standing in the garden withs its "legs". The colour scheme of this piece is minimal and it goes together well. Due to the color scheme being "bland" the textures used blances it out and compliments the mosquito coil inside.

Research and Inspiration Board

This poster was made in procreate and pictures were taklen from an app called pinterest. In this section of the portfolio it will show the making process, procreate functions and feautures that were used to create this poster.

I started by inserting my photos that have been collected into procreate. The photos are mainly from an app called pinterest.

The colour select feature was used to make the custom colour palettes for each themes. To do this you need to press the screen and hold until it starts selecting the colours you want.

After finishing my layouts and annotation I then selected everything with the grouping features and create space for my logo.

I then grouped up each photos from the same theme to make it easier to access theme. By grouping up the layers and photos it makes it easier to move them all together rather than one by one. (One of the feautures in procreate)

This is the lasso tool used to move specific thingsd on the same layer. The location of the button is on the top left on the 3rd button. You can draw over freely around it and selected it without aftering other elements on the same layer.

Logo Design

After organising my photos I started annotating and noting the different themes in each group to have a clear inspiration board.

This feature is used to paste images into procreate. One of the good things about it is that it personally seperates the picture in each layer without effecting other pictures. This is on the top left button of procreate.

This website was used to create my logo. There are features that requires you to put in your themes and colour palettes so that the website can make a logo customed to your liking.

These are the other options and choices that could've been picked. However, the color schemes used for the first two were not related and too saturated for my liking.

Although the first logo included mountains within the design, I feel like it would not fit what is included in my inspiration board.

On the other hand, the second option included too many saturated colors and it did not represent my ideas and design that well. Leaving me to choose the last one.

This was the logo that I have chosen for my inspiration board. My criteria for choosing the logo were how much it related to my design and the color palette. The mountain design was related to one of the topics and themes which is why it was chosen.

Final Product

This is the final product of the inspiration board. It consists of 4 themes and 2 extra sections. The main aesthetics and vibes from this inspiration board are desaturated, organic, and natural forms. Now I will explain the themes below and the reason why I have chosen them.

The first theme that I focused on was the aquarium / ocean theme. I have chosen a turqouise colour scheme for some of the pictures creating the effect of sun rays shining into the water as you stay under it. This effect could also be recreated by going under underwater tunnels in an aquarium which is the vibe and aesthetics I was going for. The oranges and pink tones that could be found in jellyfishes contrasts greatly in colour with the ocean blue which makes it stand out and creates a focus point. Which is one of the reasons I have chosen this picture to go with the theme.

The third theme I had chosen was a nice flower field theme. I found this, one of the hardest reference pictures to find as there are many pictures out there with many different types. However, flower references in my opinion are one of the best options when choosing to do something organic or nature-looking. The many shapes and forms flowers could take on while looking delicate and flowy make them versatile for when you are designing or creating something new. Which is another reason why I have chosen this theme.

Extra Research (Shapes / Lines)

These pictures of liquid looking shapes are what I aspire my line-art to look like. These pictures are to show me and inspire me on how organic shapes and lines can be created.

My goal in trying to achieve fluid lines is to try and capture the movement of the object to create a nice flow. The result of this will also make the designs look more organic. I will also try to loosen up the grip and control, to make nice continuous lines. Continuous lines would be preferred over sketchy cross-hatching lines because they look less clean and neat.

The second theme that I focused on was mountain landscapes and Icy mountain tops. These themes were put together because it's similar and related. The mountain tops were included and used to display the layout and format of valleys and the organic flow and forms. These pictures of valleys also include rivers running through it or waterfalls which may be a future design idea.

The other theme that was connected was icy mountain tops. I have chosen this as one of the themes because I have acknowledged the fact that we are using resin for this project. I believe that resin could be used to create effects like these if used correctly, which is why I have selected this theme. The other reason was because of the nice icy color and cooling effect it gives off which goes well with the aesthetics I was looking for.

Wood texture is one of the extra sections I have included in my inspiration board. In this project, the use of Thai hardwood is needed. I then researched and found some teak wood textures and colors to see which would fit best for future designs. In my opinion, I would like a cool-toned dark piece of wood out of all of them considering the fact that I will be using many desaturated colors in my design.

The other sections of research are textures. I believe that resin can create many of these textures when used properly. Some pictures were used to display the type of flow I want to recreate with my resin while some others are here to display what it can create. Other than that, most of these photos are the colors that I personally want to incorporate into my work as well.

These shapes could be recreated with textured brushes / liquify on digital work. However, when working on paper, light long strokes made using the motion of the whole arm is needed to create fluid lines.

I would like my designs to show a sense of fluidity and display a nice looking flow throughout the whole design with no rough edges.

Designing Process

Some extra detail about this design process . You might be wondering why there is a blue dot in every design idea, but it is there to mark the spot of where to drill the hole to put the pin in and hold the mosquito coil up with some extra remaining space underneath. Without this, the mosquito coil would be completely useless and there would be many up coming problems with it.

Taking this into account, all designs should be high enough to hold these pins to avoid any futher problems.

These sections with the coloured layers and back outline were used to display my intentions of what I had in mind. This was useful for me when fine- lining because it shows the final shape and clear outlines of what to include and not include for the final finish.

Here, I have decided to include a evaluation of my designs. This is for the purpose of explaining my opinions and to reflect upon my own designs with a critical mind. This could be used for when I want to develop, create new designs and not to repeat the same mistakes again.

I have also included pictures from my inspiration board to show that I have refered back to what I have created and how it was useful in this design process. I have chosen the pictures that have inspired me most and what it had transformed into.

How the pictures inspired me - Colours, shape, concept and themes.

These posters were created with the help of procreate. This is to have various layout, options and yet show a the process of creating these designs neatly and creatively.

Fine- Lining

In this part of the design process, I have outlined the final sketch to complete it and confirm the different blue-lined sketches of which to keep and which to make disappear.

For this poster I have gone for a graphic theme filled with cartoon like features.

I have decided to include two contrasting colours, yellow and purple, which can be found in the colour wheel across from each other.

These three sections were to evaluate the final result and display my opinions.

W.W.W. is used to say what I did well and what I like about it.

While E.B.I is used to show what I dislike about it and what could be better or what coulkd improve about the final product.

In the process of making these two posters, I've explored different features of procreate and played with texture brushes and effects.

Here are the custom brushes I've used to create these graphic/ comic effects.

I've create these brushes from tutorials I have found in tiktok, brush packs or what I've customised myself.

Here I've used the feature called halftone to create the texture in the title.

While I've used the effect hue, saturation and brightness to make the pictures I've added, clearer and cleaner to the eyes. I've also outlined the designs to draw attention to it.

Overall, I think it did not turn out that bad. However, the difference in line weight could be improved and the mistakes around the mosquito coil could have been avoided if I had paid attention and focused.

Rendering with copic

In this part of the unit we started exploring copic markers and how to render with them. We started off by watching tutorials provided by the teacher and videos from the DT Website. Then we started on an expirimental sheet of paper then moved on to our resal work. Learning to blend and using different copic colours that we would want in our design.

Here we also learned that the standard lighting in DT is that the top left corner will be the lightest bit and the bottom right corner will be the darkest bit. This applies to every layer or thing you want to highlight. This effect can be first used by copic and can be enhanced with a dark charcoal pencil and a white chalk pencil.

Down here, the shadows could be seen with the different tones that the copic markers display. Preferably it should be three layers of Copic. The actual tone, the second layer, and lastly the third layer or the darkest the copic could go.

This was my very first experience using copic or any alcohol markers. We first started off with experimenting around and having a feel of the markers. We also replicated some shapes from our design and learned to control the marker within the lines. We also learned some techniques that could be used in the processed such as blending.

(This was inspired by Linda with photo dumps and ratings.)

Overall this was niot bad as it was my first gpo, however it colour transition could be alot smoother.

This was personally not that bad because the curves and shadows is more visible.

This was also no that bad, it was a little rough and the lightest layer could not be seen and was honestly over blended.

A bit too streaky, could not see three layers of colour.

These two shapes were not bad, the lighter layers could be seeen in these shapes.

I quite like the colour palette here so I will use them in the future. However, I would personally not include dark colours becuase I find it a bit too hard to control/blend.

This tricoloured blend had improved from the first time and the transitions were a lot smoother

It ended up being streaky and the shadows were all over the place.

Work in Progress

These are my designs before I render in the wood. Overall they're not bad and I am starting to get better at blending colours. The transition are much more smoother now. The shadows are now clearer and more visible. However some of the colours are overblended and too dark, dued to changing my mind halfway when rendering causing the colours to overlap and become too dark.

Here I made a poster to display the copic markers and colours I've used in the rendering process.

Some colours, I have significantlly used more than others because it fits my vision of how I want the colours to turn out. Such as cool toned colours, desaturated and blueish colours.

In this poster, I have decided to include my favourite colors and some that were used a lot.
In case it could be seen in the desgin and impact the final product.

To make selecting and removing backgrounds easier there is a feature in apple that enables you to easily select and remove backgrounds on objects you want.

Using the other hand, you can then switch tabs or go into other apps.

First you press on the object you want to select until a small white outline appears and the images shifts and pops out a little. You may have to try a couple of times or sometimes it doesn't include everything

You can then go onto procreate, until you can see the green plus, it automatically imports the photo into a different layer.

Next you can start dragging the image around with one hand as if it were a cursor. You have to keep a hold of it or else it will dissapear.

This is one of my favourite features as it saves time and efficiently removes the background.

However, sometimes it does not turn out the way I want and would end up cutting out some bits or adding other bits.

For this shape, I would like to rate it a three because it shows clear shadows and where the light is. However it turned streaky and the three tones are hard to see.

The rest of this is to show the differences between a dry copic marker and a nice working one. In this you can see the streaky dry lines and unwanted texture, but this can create wooden texture if wanted.

While for this picture, it looks moist and watery which and has a nice clean texture to it. It may also be a clean blend when used properly. I like how it is slightly translucent or the opacity is low makes it easy to layer. Although the streaky layers may show.

Here, I have attempted to use many types of brown for each design to display the different moods. Some are vibrant browns and some are desaturated gray tones. So far I think my rendering is ok. It could be improved with better control. (It looks streaky and the difference in shade is sometimes hard to tell)

Adding Shadows and Highlight

This is another version of the mosquito coil with a purple, lavender colour.

I have started to shade in the shadows to add more depth to the design. By doing this the layers are more clearer and easy to tell.

In these pictures, there is a slight difference between shading and non-shaded. Just by shading in the shadows, it enhances the rendering to have depth and dimension.

Animation Gif

This was animated in the app procreate using their animation function.

The animation of the guidlines. This is what the smoke follows.

The more amount of frames per second, the smoother the animation. Also the onion skin frame are to show the old layer. So you can connect each frames with each other more easily. The more the onion skin frame, the more layers you can see.

I first started off, by erasing the background of one of my designs. And drew the starting guide lines of the smoke. (This would not move) An extra layer to dupilcate from them.

In this picture, you can see that the smoke goes over the red dots. I have used the colour fill tool to speed up the process. (explains why there are some sharp edges) and added texture to the smoke for a nice translucent effect.

Here I have grouped each layer together to make it easier to manage. This helps control what appears in the animation.

I then started animating the dots along the guidelines. The curves of the smoke goes over every dot. (manually)

The frames you have drawn are aligned with eachother at the bottom of the screen.

This is my attempt in creating a gif. I choose one of my favorite designs and decided to animate the smoke trying to replicate how it would be like.

Overall, the outcome of this smoke animation could be better. I could've used a better brush because the sharp edges of the smoke is quite visible.

I shouldn't have move moved the mosquito coil as well because it could be seen slightly moving and shaking which could be improved.

Lastly, the animation could be much smoother by having more frames per second. The changes in the smoke is too dynamic and it looks choppy. If I make another anymtion I will take these into account.

The next animation would probably be to introduce my new improved version of the design. Showing the origin/reference of where the idea came from bring it to life.

I found my references from this youtuber.

https://youtube.com/shorts/uUCYrL4F2lQ?si=Fvqlnjl4mDLK85IJ

In this link is one of his shorts that I have tried to follow in the process of making the smoke animation gif.

Digital copy (blue line sketching)

This is the pen used for sketching the blue line sketches.

Here is a picture of a sketching process.

This is the website used to make these gifs.

Experimenting and testing wether using the reference functions is better than butting the old image beneath it.

Here is one of the most significantly changed designs compared to the other ones.

I have decided that using this method is the best when doing small changes to the new design.

I have decided to do all of this in only one layer for easy access.

Gif time lapse of one of the designs with the most significant changes.

These are two of the time-lapses of my sketching processes.

Screen recorded the time-lapse. Manually edited the video. Put into ezgif.com to be converted to a gif.

This website is really easy to use. You insert the files, and videos that you want to turn into a gif. The website will eventually process it out and you can download the end result.

Digital Copy (Fine-lining)

This fine-lining is also all done on one layer to keep things clean and organized.

Here you can see that even though it is in a digital copy of my work, we are able to recreate techniques on paper to a digital copy.

Thicker lines are on the outside and thinner lines are on the inside

Always make sure that every line is connected or else there will be further problems when masking photos and rendering.

In this picture, I am using the lasso tool to select the mosquito coil and duplicate it to fit other designs for efficiency.

Some lines need to be extended or shortened to fit the design.

Digital Copy (Masking & Rendering)

We first start off with inserting a picture of one of the textures. (picture found on Pinterest) Then adjust to your liking.

I recommend lowering the opacity to be able to see more clearly, how the texture would look on the design.

Then on the picture layer, swipe with three fingers to bring down this menu bar.

Then click the cut button.

Using the adjusting function, on the fine-line layer click on the desired section you want the picture to be in.

Make sure that you have selected the automatic feature and 'add' and nothing else. This is where having connected lines matters. Lower the threshold percentage to avoid the selection going everywhere.

After this process is done, bring the opacity back up again.

In this picture, you can see the "color correcting" bar beneath it. I use it to adjust the resin color and wood color to my liking. Such as making the colours more saturated or changing the hues to a bluey colour.

You then click Invert. The blue will be switched around.

You then repeat this process for the resin layers.

After finishing the masking process, I group them and label them to make things easier when there are going to be many other layers in the future.

This is how it looks after masking in the different textures.

Once rendering the shadow is done, I start. by adding the highlights to the left-hand corner, following the same rule used when rendering with the Copic markers.

For the rendering process, I start by selecting sections that I want to render. Make sure to not select the ones that are close together.

Use the same function when masking except you do not invert it.

I repeat the process on all the same layer until all the parts are finished.

This is done with the soft brush in the airbrushing section. Using the colour black with opacity turned slightly down.

This is a work in progress of adding small highlights to it.

I use this brush to do the small highlights on procreate.

There should be around 6 layers in total. (front, middle, and back resin layer plus wood, shadows, and highlights.

Step by step tutorial

I have made this poster to display my process of creating these developed digital copies of my mosquito coil designs.

Work in Progress (Unrendered Mosquito Coil Version)

Final Outcome

This is a process to help us visualize our designs, using the computer. We will then create a template to use with the foam model later in this website.

CAD Cam

This is the starting base/ template of the mosquito coil. It makes the process a lot easier.

I first started off by inserting my selected design onto the first plane to trace over.

In step-by-step tutorials, I created a poster of my starting process and what I did to achieve the final product. However, I believe that this poster is quite messy and has no focus point making it hard to look at or not knowing where to start.

This was my first problem in the process. As I sketched the cut/ middle of the layer where we have to insert the mosquito coil. We had to take into account that the top bit needed to leave space for the sides, to be able to put the coil in.

While doing that, I found out that the base was too thin and had a high chance of being snapped off in the process of cutting the shape out.

This is a clearer picture of the thin base and how it would look like if I had not adjust it.

Progress pictures of my design without resin and wood colours.

I like how it is looking so far, but I'm not a big fan of the asymmetrical circle/ cut for the mosquito coil. It looks wonky and out of place.

These are a collection of photos with finished layers before I realised my mistake.

From the top, you can see that mosquito coil had fit perfectly with no problems.

Front view and some close-ups of my poster at this very stage.

I realised that it is going to be very difficult to cut the wood into this shape in the future.

This is a photo comparison with the initial reference picture and the new base.

This is a photo of my sketch for the middle layer after adjustments.

This near-fatal mistake could have been worse, however, it was very time-consuming because I had to go change the base for every layer.

I made another poster explaining my splitting process to determine the resin and wood and assign colours to each part.

This is a picture of the resin part of the first layer before any adjustments were made.

When I split the layers, I sketch through the whole plane from where I want to cut.

Make sure that the line goes through the whole way and it is continuous.

In this picture, I experimented with the opacity of different colours to see how it would look.

On onshape, only one colour is available at a time so I have decided to choose the two most significant colours of my design.

I have had a couple of problems with this process and had to redraw my sketches a couple of times before I got it to work.

In this picture you can see that the sketch line is outside of the sketching plane.

I then used the fillet tool to carve out this space for the pin to insert through. Measurements of 2.5cm.

Before that, I made a hole to fit the body of the pin in. It goes through the first and last pin.

I also have changed the mosquito coil colour to a nice pastel, desaturated colour to fit my design.

In this process, I had difficulty inserting the pin and there were some technical problems with it, so in the end I had to accurately guess and put the whole in the correct place.

In this picture, I adjusted my design to the pin.

Precisely moving the design to line up with the original.

These are some pictures of the template of my finished design. I will later print it out to use on my foam models to make a life-size version.

The measurements are a 1:1 ratio. With different views of the design to be put as a template on separate layers.

Foam Model

Foam Model, a process or step to help test out your product and ideas in real life, to see any difficulties when making or any changes that need to be made to your model for the most smooth sailing final manufacturing process. This helps us visualise the final product and make changes accordingly.

In this foam model process, we started by cutting out the templates that we had printed out from onshape and glued them onto the three separate layers of foam. We then cut out the shape with a hot wire cutter.

The wire cutter was set on level 8, to ensure that the wire wasn't too hot. Following the paper template we cut around it. It would've been better if I were to leave some space when cutting so that during the sanding process it does not shrink down a size.

After cutting out each layer I've glued them all together with double-sided tape.

However, the end of this step before sanding the product does not look too good. On the backside, it contains many mistakes that would be fixed in the later steps.

Sanding The Foam Model

This is the picture before I had sanded it.

This is after sanding the foam. (Concaved curved where the wave lies - harder to sand)

A side view of the foam model. (convexed - easier to sand)

To achieve a smooth and finished-looking product, I repeatedly changed the sandpaper, the grit of each sandpaper, the more I sanded. (Increasing the number)

While I was taking apart the foam model I accidentally snapped the thin part of the middle layer. Which made me realised that it was a design flaw and I had to improve this before manufacturing.

The convexed curve on the side makes it easier to sand. This wooden device helps me hold the foam mode in place as I sand.

To fix this problem I had made, I decided to put a small toothpick between each part to secure the parts together because of the time limitations. After this, I sanded the inside of the middle layer where the mosquito coil lies.

Overall the sanding process went pretty well, however, there were many mistakes that I could've avoided. I think that the sides and big shapes of the foam model turned out even and smooth and that it was able to capture the flow of the design. On the other hand, some parts were really hard to do such as the small concaved part on the bottom. However it will turn out better with the right equipment.

Extra Details

This process is to help us visualise where the wood and resin is.

In this step I used a toothpick to poke small consequtive holes into the foam following the template that I've printed out. This is to seperate the different layers of material.

As in the photo, the holes are really close together however, it is best to avoid it being too close together because it will cause it to become one big hole. This makes it a bit too messy and not consistent with the rest of the holes.

After this process I've decided to make little grooves, where the dotts are to make it more clear of where each art is and it creates more dimension. Instead of a flat surface with holes it can look more clean and accurate to the actual one.

To create this effect. I went over and sanded the line with the edge of a pencil while holding it at an angle. (Done the same thing as Linda - Technique from Linda)

Development

This is the process where we evaluate and review our design mistakes and improve on them to produce a better outcome. At this stage, we correct our mistakes and change our designs to adapt or make our manufacturing process easier in the future.

I like the new design and how it is both simple and complex looking. The design reinforces the idea of a wave and utilises the recognisable shape better. However, I was not did not like the colour scheme as much so I decided to change it in part 2. For this poster, I wanted to show off the sketches and the new design from different angles and compare it to the old model. I decided that the wooden part was too hard to recreate so I changed it into bigger and simpler shapes to give the same effect and also make my life easier when manufacturing. In addition to the change in the shape of the wood, I made the resin have a larger cut with different layers to create a more textured effect of a wave.

For this development poster, I wanted to show off the different layers and the initial sketches of the newly developed design. I made the base of the middle layer thicker to avoid the same problem happening with my actual product. I made the sides of the middle layer more open for more space to put the mosquito coil since I had problems with space with the foam model.

I still kept with the theme of the ocean and waves which was a reference that I used regularly. I also liked the new colour scheme a lot more since it complemented the theme better, recreating the same vibes as an ocean with the sun hitting the top of the calm waters with warm highlights. I would like to add a bit of desaturated cool-toned pink to contrast with the blue, mixing in the resin for every layer.

We first started with a template that was provided by our teacher, and then we rearranged the different parts to fit our liking and substituted it with our work. I tried to make the things I waned people to focus on bigger on the page to draw attention. I also paid more attention to the parts I wanted to be seen.

To create different angles of the new design, I first sketched a 3D view of the developed design then I duplicated and flipped it to fit the other angles and adjusted it then.

For this part of the development poster, I wanted to show a visual representation of how the final product will look like. So I used the skills to do my procreate rendering on this 3D view of the new design.

To make the foam model photos stand out, I added a bit of shadow to give them more dimension so they would not look out of place and messy. Additionally, I outlined only some sketches to show the different styles.

For both of the pages, I added solid colours in the background to make things stand out and more finished. It is an effective way to draw attention to the things I want people to focus on and it gives a minimalistic, clean look to it.

For the second development page, I added three sketches of the new design that showcase the different sections of the new design. Especially the front view, I colour-coded the different sections that show the front layer, the wood layer, the middle layer and the back layer. For this design, I wanted to utilise all three layers, so I decided to have a small bit exposed in the front to show all the layers and to create a complex but minimalistic look.

Manufacturing

Resin Mould

The first step of the manufacturing process was to create a mould or a container to contain the resin. We were given 2 small pieces, 2 long pieces and a base. We then used hot glue to assemble the acrylics and prevent the resin from leaking. We would fill the mould up with water to test whether it was leaking. When you spot a leak we would go over that spot with a hot glue gun again. To make it a strong bond without many air gaps, we would have to melt the old glue using the tip of the hot glue gun to bond it together with the new glue ontop.

We would have to constantly check the extra gaps that were created to assemble the mould a lot like a jigsaw.

The acrylic pieces had ledges and cuts for them to be inserted by the other parts to have a fitter and tighter build.

Before I got started, I redrew my new designs on top of my old template to be able to have a reference for every layer. This would be helpful in the future when I start cutting out my design on resin, I can always trace from it. It is an accessible piece of reference that is similar to the real scale.

I made a reference page of new and developed designs; this can be seen on the development page.

I tried to sketch a reasonable-sized design. However, adjustments will be made when I try to fit them into the mould.

Not only did I sketch out the new design, I cut out the templates and separated the wood and resin layers. This allows me to cut around and follow the new design.

Wood Manufacturing

Starting processes

To start out this process, I splitted the block of wood into 2 pieces in the ratio of 2:1. I was planning to sand the first piece all together then split them apart before the resin pour.

In this picture, it could be seen that the design does not fit onto the piece of wood.

To fix that problem, I used a piece of scrap wood from my other cuts to add to the wooden block to provide enough space for my design to look how I wanted.

First I started by adding wood glue onto the small piece and stuck it to where I wanted it to. I made sure to add an appropriate amount to prevent the glue from leaking on the sides.

Afterwards, I covered the gap with the wooden powder left from when I sanded earlier. By doing this I believed it would make it appear more blended.

To start off, I cut my pieces of wood with a scroll saw, following the template I made earlier. I made sure that I did not cut as close to the actual line since we had to sand the design and it will slowly shrink along the process.

At this part of the process, I started sanding my wooden parts, especially the surface/sides that would have contact with the resin.

The parts that would be covered by resin will need to be smooth since we would not have the chance to sand them again.

I didn't pay a lot of attention on this cut of the design since it is at the bottom of the design and will not be filled with resin.

However, on these edges and curves I paid extra attension to make them smooth because it will be covered by resin.

I tried to make my wood parts as equal as possible in terms of the sides, lengths and cuts to be aligned with each other.

After this piece finished drying I cut off the shape with a scroll saw and started sanding. First of all, I used the band facer to smooth out the ledge of the wood. Secondly, I started hand sanding the edges moving from a rough grit to a small grit. sandpaper.

During this sanding process, I have used other tools other than a band facer and sandpaper, I have also used files with various heads for each purpose. I especially used the half-round file and round file as seen illustrated in the picture because my design contained a lot of concaved curves

As I finished my joint front and middle layers, I spilt them using this machine (bandsaw). I tried to make it the cleanest cut possible to avoid any unnessessary sanding.

In this picture, is me cutting this wooden part on the bandsaw.

To get an even cut, I tried to push the wood to the side firmly to avoid any wonky cutting, whilst pushing forward slowly into the saw.

Priming the wood

In this process, we primed the wood before we pour our resin to prevent air bubbles from the wood effecting the resin.

I used a clear spray paint to coat the wood thinly.

After we sprayed, we leaned the freshly spray painted piece of wood on a surface with limited contact to avoid the spraypaint from peeling.

My design is an minimalistic ocean / wave design. I had gotten the idea from aquariums and the beach, recreating the sun shining through the transparent water. My strengths are sketching and designing because I was able to display my ideas clearly and in a creative way while my weaknesses are manufacturing such as resin pouring. I've made many mistakes and messed up the pouring several times and it would be nice to work and improve on that area as it is my weakest point. I have developed in using the copic markers properly as I have had very little experience with it. My target is to work quicker during manufacturing periods, onshape and trying to avoid making silly mistakes as much as possible. My website is able to show the different stages of my whole process and take my audience through a story, showing the different mistakes and how I've adapted and grow. My website could be improved by using more gifs or detail explanations rather than small annotations from my posters. Additionally, I'd like to present my work in various of other ways other than posters and text.

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