DT f- block

MOSQUITO COIL HOLDER

All of the design above is holding the mosquito coil on an upward direction which is very similar to the design from the DT apartment. The holder with a wall around it doesn't seem to have a lot of air flow, which doesn't really help attract mosquito away.

Why do we a need a mosquito coil holder?

We need a mosquito coil holder since usually a mosquito coil itself can't spread the smell in a wide enough range to get the mosquito that are further away. But with the help of the holder, it make the smell go further range so that the mosquito would sense and go away quicker than usual. The hold also help the coil to be balance and not fall so easily.

USB LANTERN

This is what a normal usb lantern look like, which personally doesn't look really appealing and I think some design need to be added so it would look better even in your garden or anywhere.

Although in RST DT we will be looking further on making it look better by creating a zentangle design with a 3D effect

As you can see, above is an image carousel with variety of example of what the Zentangle 3D USB lamp design may look like. Looking further into the project. An USB Lantern project is based on the ideas of a flat pack furniture/ self assembly and should be produce with a beautiful, elegent yet still contain a complex outcome in able to demonstrate our design skills.

RESIN POURED TEA LIGHT HOLDER

What's a resin tea light holder?

Usually tealights are placed in special holder such as a container with a partly clear wall to allow the candle light to pass through. This can be small pockets of glass, metal, ceremice and other. But a tealight holder can be decorated into different shape and design as well as that, light can also go through wide range.

What's resin made of?

Resin is made of the liquid plastic called epoxy, which isn't the same to the normal type of plastic. This is because it is produce from organic material such as plants while the other plsstic are produce from synthetic material.

Resin pouring using timber has become very popular and fashionable over the last few years. As developments with resin have progressed more 'glass / clear' resins have allowed greater experimentation with what can be done.

Resin Inspirational Mood Board

Mosquito coil Designs

Above are the selection of designs that were drawn and colored into the paper using Kopic marker and fineline pen. Before this process, we first started off by sketching ideas with blue pen with the lightest line possible, so the black wouldn’t mix with the blue pen. Some of the techniques are extremely difficult and needed improvisation to accomplish.

Below here is the close up of two of my finish drawing, which you can see that the shade of the color are blended in together to make the design look more realistic. During the process I have also used two shade of Kopic marker in able to make the color shadow effect; an example of the two shade are dark blue and light blue, etc. The reason I have minimalize the picture is also to show the details i have put above.

Digital Designs and sketches

This is first layer on my digital sketch and I have use a blue line pen which make it seem like I'm drawing it on an actual paper. Some sketches above are the completely different from my paper sketch since I have created new Ideas. As a notice, while I draw each of my sketches they should have a maximum line which is in the box and shouldn't be outside the box because if its out it's technically not part of the model.

The pen I have use

The pen I have chosen to use for this blue line layer is call 'Rough Spencil 1' which I think make an effect like your using an actual blue pencil on paper. I also really like the flexibility of line because it can go thick and thin, depending on how hard we press on our apple pencil.

Layer in the process

As you can see on the picture above there's 3 layers which are 'blue pencil', 'Fine line pen layer' and as well as the last layer 'Thick fine line layer'. But right now I am using the first layer which is the blue pencil because at the moment I am in the sketching process and will be moving on to the fine line soon.

Masking & Fine-lining

This is my finishing work for my fine line layer. In this layer I have used a pen in sketch a day called inker which give you a line surealistic to the actual fine lining pen. Before I have used the pen I've also adjusted it stability so it make some line not too deform and is still in shape while I draw. My pen that I've used is also about 3% big since it's not too big nor too small for fine-lining. When I re fine line it I also didn't follow everyline in the blue-line because I have improvised a bit whil in the process too.

How did I get this design?

In this coil design, I have got inspired by the picture next to this which is an Octopus from one of the urban legend which I feel like using as coild would make it stand out a lot but it may be very hard to make and work on, unless the time given is enough.

Urban squid inspiration

Inspiration on this design

For this design its a combination between the two picture which is a building called Louvre and the moon which I put behind.

Louvre

Moon

This is the masking layer which I have done step-by-step which as you can see in each design there's a really detail texture since I have got the photo airdropped by mr douglas and some of them I have evn gotten it from google (although the picture need to be in good format and doesn't turn pixelated when zoom in).

Steps on how to do masking

1.Putting in the picture

First of you need to have a background photo of the texture for your design so it makes your design stands out more and also help make it look more realistic like an actual resin.

2.Selecting shape

Next you should go to your fineline layer and press on the 'S' symbol on the top left corner. (It is highlighted in blue in the picture) This will lead youto a menu bar which you should be on automatic so you can select a the shape you like the photo to be in.

3.Cutting & Inverting shapes

After you select your shape there'll be an invert button for you to press which will create a line on your shape. (You can look in the photo above) When you have this you should go back to the original photo layer then slide down with 3 finger and a menu will pop up. When this menu pop up you should press cut.

4.Finishing

This is what it should look like when you finish, although if you don't like what you have you can alwyas go back and move the picture or even change the background untile you're statisfy.

Shading and higlighting coil

Notice before this process

Before you continue any further you should make two layer called 'highlight' and 'shadow'

These are my designs after the shading and higlighting process

In all of the designs the sun should be facing down from the west which mean the highlight should be drawn on the left side like the design above. While you put in the highlight it should also be parallel to the shape.

While I was shading in, I've cover up most of the shade which mean I shaded in even in the slightest corner to make it look realistic as much as i could. As you can see in the photo above I even shaded the curve to make it have a 3D effect.

For the coil in the back, I didnt just fill in the color but I have change my brush to color it in so it make it look like the actual coil which have a rough surface. I have also used the pen called 'Felt' to do the coil surface.

As you can see, the highlights doesn't always have to be drawn on all of the shapes because sometime it would look messy. Although the reason I didn't put highlights in the blue part is also because I color it so it have a rough surface and normally rough things doesn't reflect yo sunlight.

Above here are some of the wood and backgrounds I have used while masking

Sketching

Fine-line

Shading & highlights

Mosquito coil foam modeling

Laying out

Before we started the process, I have been given a blue foam to make the design of my coil holder. The foam have also been cut out to be as big as the real design so when I draw the design, the size will be accurate.

Sticking in

I have drawn my design of the layout, I then cut the foam into four layers since my design include four layers. I will also have to make sure the layer are the same sizes. After that I will then stick what I've drawn down to the foam.

As you can see from my original sketch, my design have a space of a shape that I need to make a hole for. In able to do this process first I outline where I want to put the space. Then i used toothpick to go around the outline and to clear the messy part I used the small saw.

Filing

On this point of the stage I decided that I wanted to smoothen my surface so I used the deburring file to smooth the space and sand paper to smooth the outside shape of the design.

Coil holder

Making a coil holder might as well be one of the easiest stage since I just outline the size of the coil and then later I make it a bit more bigger than my outline since in real life if it's too fit then it might as well not fit into the holder.

Sticking in

At this stage in the project after spliting the foam model i have glued the parts together and assembled it all together as one coil.

Pieces of the handle

These are the pieces of the coil design that I have taken a picture of to show a clear view of each layers. As you can see the bottom two layers are parrallel to eachother since when you put it as front and back layers it would fit perfectly.

Final Design Development

Sketching

This is my 3D perspective sketch for my design that I have develope from the original one. I have drawn this sketch line by line to try and get the angle and shape as accurate as I could.

New resin

At first in my oringinal design I've chosen a pink colored resin but now I have changed my mind and did purple instead since I think it's more intimidating due to how much purple stands out more than pink.

Inserting

As I follow by the steps, to insert a textures in a 3D model is very simple because all the steps are the same as my last 2D designs but I just needed to select more parts.

Shadow and Highlights

At the end I have decided to add shadows and highlights or else the design wouldn't stand out at all and 3D are suppose to stand out, so reader can see the overview of the design.

Before and After Design

These are the comparison between my old coil design and the new one that I have fully develope it, as you can see there are some differences such as adding less shape spaces for layer in the middle and as well as changing my resin color to purple, the color in onshape also can't be adjusted to have a texture yet, so the comparison between color may not be the same; you can still see different between the shape.

Zoom in picture of my final design mind map

Digital Designs

Onshape

For this process, we needed to use the website, onshape which is a website where it help you to creates a 3D model in able to 3D print it after the finishing process.

Before starting anything, I have to insert the photo of my original design so that when I sketch, I can follow the line, which will therefore make my design not go everywhere and more accurate.

Although I have been given three layer from the start, my design needed four, so I decided to add one more front layer infront. But the width and the length are still the same.

How to add coloring

To add coloring, first you need to select the layer you wanted the color to be in. In which in this example, I chose the layer, 'Split 1' or the middle layer. After you then select add appeareance.

After you select it, you can see that there will appear a yellow outline.

As you can see this menu will pop up, which will show you all the faces and layers that the color can fit in. You will then delete the face that you don't need by pressing the x button and only leaving behind the one you needed.

After that this will be the result

Side view

In this side view, you can see the 4 layers very clearly and you can also see the buttom layers which is suppose to be the wood layer in the real work.

In this horizontal view, you can see that I have also added a hole in between the four layers. So that when I 3D printed it, the pin will be able to go through easily.

Front view

This is just a clear picture of the front view.

As you can see, on tope here is a sketch diagram of my design that onshape have created. In total there are about 7 angles that I have chosen so that you can see the clearer view around the design. The perspective I have included top, bottom, side and even from and eagle eye direction. As well as that, this sketch have also help me to see which of those length are a bit off and neede to be fixed because you can see in the side view, that there are some lines that doesn't fit exactly to the shape. In this case I will be measuring the wood leangth more carefully so thta it fit perfectly and doesn't look wonky or off.

Wooden Parts and Resin Prep

Measuring

First of all to start the process, I have to choose the wood texture I wanted for the base of my mosquito coil. As you can see here I have cut the wood into two half so it would be easier to cut into more smaller layers.

Cutting into layers

Next I have split the wood that I have cut into thre equal pieces that will soon become the base. As well as that, I have also sand the sharp edge of too.

Sticking and adding layers together

As you can see in the photo, I have cut my sketch diagram out and stick it on another piece of wood to be my fourth layer. Sticking this on would also help me with the layout and how I should cut my shape. To cut this I have used the saw machine which is quite easy to use and cut with during the process.

Plotting holes

In my design I have spaces in a triangular shape, as you can see in the picture. To be able to do these spaces, first i need plot the hole by using the machine in the picture. This way the sawing machine can go through so you can cut the spaces.

Before plotting the holes, I need to pick the right size of the knot above, or else if it's too big it can caused crack and break the wood easily.

This is what the wood should look like after plotting the holes.

This is my wood in the cutting machine. Personally for me I think this is one of the hardest part due to the wood shaking constantly while being cut and also how some holes are very detailed and small can caused a problem. In this process, my top wood have break from too much tension, sp I decided to improvise it further.

After that, I put my wood piece on the sanding machine because some of the shape is not flat and a bit bumpy and uneven. For me this step was really easy but take a bit longer than the other steps.

Lastly I have used the tools to clean up the edges and uneven details inside the space.

Mistakes I have made during the process

The wood have been in too much tension, which as you can see have cause it to crack and affecting some parts by being uneven.

As I've already said, while I was using the cutting machine, it have gotten stuck in between the space of the wood, so I tried to pull it out, but end up breaking the entire top part.

While cutting the holes, I have also encountered the glue drying off from the paper causing it to rip. Which made me being not able to cut the shape accurately.

Sometime when I used the sanding machine it can make the wood layer become thinner which might not be what you have design in the first place, which meant we always have to keep an eye on it.

Everything I've done this lesson

Resin Preperation

My wood layers

This is the finishing of the wood layers that I have cut and as you can see from this picture, the long base is abour 4cm wide and about 10cm long.

Resin powder

There are thre types of resin colours, transparent, powder and as well normal opaque texture resin colour. As well as that these are the main three colour that I have chosen which is purple, pink powder and white opaque.

Format

To be able to pour the resin in you need to have a format board which look like this picture above. As you can see the wood have fitted perfectly on the format since I have measured it before placing.

In this picture here, the metal bar that you can see in front is a wood holder and how you use it is you need to attach it to the table by spinning down the screw part. Therefore this will help the wood to not move while the resin pouring process, this tecnique is really effective because it not only help to stabellize the wood it can also help the resin be poured in an equal amount so the shape doesn't goes wonky and all over.

Mixture

This is the resin mixture which is done by my teacher (Mr Douglas). How it is done is he will add two formula together which is formula A and B, after I will get the cup with those two formula and stir it for around 5 minutes or until it's transparent.

Colours

After that I split the mixture into there small cups, in able for me to add colours to it, which will later become the colours of my resin.

For the purple transparent paints I only used up a bit because if i used too much the purple wouldn't be transparent and would be opaque. This goes for all the transparent color.

Resin

As you can see this is the first layer of resin. While pouring it down I discovered a new tecnique which is using stick to make different patterns and it actually end up looking really good. Right after I finish this process, I've also sprayed alcohal spray on to it, to remove all of the air bubbles.

This is the second layer of my resin and to do this I just repeated the same process.

Everytime you do a resin pouring work you need a plastic under or any kind of material under or else it will end up spilling like in this picture, but luckily I have plastic under so the it doesn't stick to the table.

Sanding & Shaping

Finally after waiting for about one day, this is the finishing result and as you can see the wood part is not really smooth anymore since some of the resin have got splattered on it and dried off. The edges of the resin is also a bit rough and sharp on the edge and the pattern have change from when it haven't dried out yet. Some of the resin have also come off the bottom of the wood which will make it hard for the wood to stand and it's also not part of my design. Therefore to fix these problems is by sanding them.

Chamfering

I used the chamfering machine to sand the edge and make the resin surface smoother, although my resin part is a bit too thin for the machine; while the process the resin then slip down the space in between the machine and broke it.

Although the chamfering machine have broke, luckily my design didn't snap and only got some bruises (look in the red circle).

Fixing

It caused the wood to be a bit uneven and there's rough area on the top surface so I decided to use this sanding machine which help to fix the surface and actually made it smooth again.

This is what it look like at the end, as you can see the surface of both the resin and wood got smoother and there's no more dried splattered resin anymore but there were some dust before this photo so I decided to wet a tissue paper and clean my resin. After I just use normal tissue paper to wipe the water off and it end up looking like this.

Polishing & Finishing

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