Chasm View Wall

Other routes I've climbed on Chasm View Wall:

Babies R Us (5.12a, 5p, toprope) • Directissima (5.10b, 4p) • Indirectissima (5.9, 4-6p) • Red Wall (5.10b, 6p) • Royal Flush (5.11c, 10p) • Sharp on Both Ends (5.11d, 6p)

Category: Colorado (RMNP)Top-out Elev: ~13,500 ftRock Type: Granite
Date: July 30, 2022 (Sat)Trip Report #: 563Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route: Royal Flush (5.11c, 10p)

Camping and climbing in one of the most iconic locations in RMNP.

Intro

Royal Flush is one of the longer routes on Chasm View Wall, climbing the tallest portion of the wall in 10 pitches. The route finishes begins as for Invisible Wall, then crosses Tip Toe, and finally finishes with the beautiful right-facing dihedrals in the upper wall.

Nate and I climbed Royal Flush on a weekend overnight at the Boulderfield, a vast sweep of rock located at 12,760 feet on the north side of Longs Peak, located about 1500 feet below the 14,259 foot summit. We had planned on also climbing a route on The Diamond on Sunday, but heavy rain on Saturday night and early cloud build-up on Sunday morning caused us to wisely decide to hike out. Nevertheless, it was worth it to just climb Royal Flush and hang out in the alpine for the weekend. Nate and I thought Royal Flush was a worthy route, with some excellent stretches of climbing (namely, the 10b Pitch 3, the 10a corner of Pitch 6, and the crux 11c thin crack on Pitch 7), mostly good climbing otherwise, and climbing the tallest section of the wall.

The following page provides a trip report for the climb and our overnight in the Boulderfield. Enjoy!

Route Overlay

(Displays route overlays for Babies R Us (5.12a, 5p), Royal Flush (5.11c, 10p), Red Wall (5.10b, 6p), Directissima (5.10b, 4p), Sharp on Both Ends (5.11d, 6p), and Indirectissima (5.9, 4-6p), all of which I have climbed.)

Time Stats

Longs Peak Trailhead to Boulderfield (with overnight packs and in a rainstorm): 3 hours 26 minutes
Boulderfield to base of Chasm View Wall via "Fifth Avenue": 1 hours 2 minutes
Climb Royal Flush: 4 hours 50 minutes
Top of route to camp in Boulderfield: 30 minutes

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd-3rd

The approach depends on where you start. It is probably most common to start from the Longs Peak Trailhead: Starting from the Longs Peak Trailhead, hike up to Chasm Lake and from there to the base of Chasm View Wall. However, on this trip Nate and I started from the Boulderfield, since that is where we were camping: Starting from the Boulderfield, hike to the ridge connecting Mt. Lady Washington to Chasm View. Either descend the Camel Gully or for a more direct but lesser known approach descend "Fifth Avenue" directly to the base of Chasm View Wall (we descended "Fifth Avenue").

Note: There seems to be a bit of confusion as to the exact Fifth Avenue route and route name (alternative names include Fisherman's Folley, Fisherman's Fantasy, 42d Street, Positively 4th Street). I was psyched to be able to gather some beta for the Fifth Avenue connector route between the Boulderfield and Chasm Lake Cirque. It is definitely the most efficient way to the base of Chasm View Wall from the Boulderfield. I added some photos (the ones with green headers and annotations) to my Diamond Beta Page.

Leaving our camp in the morning sun. That's the shadow of a meat stick in my shadow hand in case you are observant and curious.

The short trek between the Boulderfield and the ridge connecting Lady Washington to Chasm View.

A beta photo showing the Fifth Avenue connector route between the Boulderfield and Chasm Lake Cirque.

Another beta photo showing the Fifth Avenue connector route between the Boulderfield and Chasm Lake Cirque.

A beta photo showing the start of the Fifth Avenue connector route between the Boulderfield and Chasm Lake Cirque.

Another beta photo showing the start of the Fifth Avenue connector route between the Boulderfield and Chasm Lake Cirque.

A beta photo showing the entrance of the Fifth Avenue connector route.

Nate midway down Fifth Avenue.

A beta photo showing the ramp at the lower end of the Fifth Avenue connector route between the Boulderfield and Chasm Lake Cirque. This brings you directly to the base of Chasm View Wall.

Another beta photo showing the ramp at the lower end of the Fifth Avenue connector route between the Boulderfield and Chasm Lake Cirque. This brings you directly to the base of Chasm View Wall.

Nearing the base of Chasm View Wall.

Pitch 1

5.9

Follow a left-angling ramp and corner system. This is the first pitch of Invisible Wall.

Nate starting up Pitch 1.

Steph following Pitch 1. There was a bit of seeping on this pitch due to heavy hail and rain the previous afternoon. Photo by Nate.

Pitch 2

5.8

Follow cracks up and left to a roof as for Invisible Wall. Leave that roof by jamming a hand crack though the right side of the roof, and belay at the bottom of a slot.

The steep hand crack on Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.10b (5.9 R)

Squeeze up the slot and a strenuous finger/hand crack, then traverse right via knobs and belay at a flake. The final traverse is rated 5.9 R in the guidebook, but we located sufficient gear placements that it didn't feel very runnout.

Looking up the start of Pitch 3. The slot is on the right. The Diamond towers in the distance to the left.

Steph on the final "5.9 R" traverse. Photo by Nate.

The flake at the belay.

Pitch 4

5.8

Follow a dihedral to a diagonal roof. Climb up and left beneath the roof to a fault line on Tip Toe, and then go up a broken dihedral system. Set up a belay on any of the several ledges. Or link with Pitch 5.

Looking up at the dihedral on Pitch 4.

An old pin on Pitch 4.

Pitch 5

5.6

Scramble up and left along the big ramp on Tip Toe, then climb up to a stance at the bottom of a long right-facing dihedral.

Pitch 5. Nate linked this with Pitch 4. The Diamond towers in the distance to the left.

Pitch 6

5.10a

Stem up the beautiful dihedral and exit to the left. Climb 15 feet, then traverse 20 feet left to the right end of a small roof. Move down and left 10 feet and belay.

Nate leading the corner on Pitch 6. This was a great pitch and also the money photo pitch of the route, with the Diamond towering to the left. The Diamond was quite wet from heavy hail and rain the previous afternoon.

Another photo of Nate on Pitch 6.

Looking down the corner while leading. Photo by Nate.

Looking up the corner while following it.

The belay is left and down.

Pitch 7

5.11c (crux pitch)

Climb around the left side of the roof and follow a thin crack (crux) to a ramp. Go up and left along the ramp, then work straight up to a big grassy ledge that is the right end of Broadway.

Looking up the crux corner. The corner was a bit wet but we both managed to on-sight the 5.11c crux (Nate leading, me following).

Nate embarking on lead. Nice lead Nate.

The towering walls of Chasm View Wall to climbers right of the route.

Pitch 8

5.6

Move the belay up and right and climb a short wall to the bottom of a chimney. Be aware of where the rope is since it drags through loose rocks on the Broadway ramp.

Looking up above the belay at the top of Pitch 7. Pitch 8 is an easy pitch to the base of the next headwall. Pitches 9&10 climb the chimney (or the crack system to the right) to the notch.

Looking down Pitch 8. This was just a "get you there" pitch. Watch the rope on the loose rock on the ledge. This ledge is the continuation of Broadway which runs under the walls of the Diamond.

Pitches 9&10

5.9 R & 5.9 (Notch Exit Left)

5.7 (V-Notch Exit)

5.7 A0 (Chasm Cut-Off)

PITCHES 9&10 via Notch Exit Left: Offwidth up the loose and poorly protected chimney to a ledge 30 feet below a square notch in the ridge crest. Climb to the left side of the notch.

PITCHES 9&10 via V-Notch Exit: Climb the steep chimney and corner system that leads to the V-Notch. This is just right of Notch Exit Left. This is the way we went.

PITCHES 9&10 via Chasm Cut-Off: Follow the ledge system right along the lowest band of schist that runs across the top of Chasm View Wall. The crux occurs where the ledge fades and one is confronted with a small overhang; climb this directly by pulling on a fixed pin.

Due to the uninspiring description of the Notch Left Exit, our lack of offwidth gear, and the incoming weather, we chose to climb the V-Notch Exit. Notice all of the crows (or ravens?) circling above.

The 5.7 chimney on the V-Notch Exit.

The upper corner of the V-Notch Exit.

Steph nearing the top of the route. Photo by Nate.

This photo is taken from the belay at the top of Pitch 8, looking toward the Chasm Cut-Off (5.7 A0) option. I had done this when I climbed Red Wall (5.10b, 6p) in October 2019.

Top!

The route tops out at a notch on the ridge to the right of Chasm View.

Nate at the top of the route.

A glider above Longs Peak summit. Photo by Nate.

Descent

3rd

There are a few options. You can descend easily to the Boulderfield and gain the trail to Longs Peak Trailhead. Alternatively, you can return to Chasm Lake via the Camel Gully or Fifth Avenue.

Descending towards the Boulderfield. We had camped there so we didn't have far to go.

other photos

Below are some other photos from our weekend surrounding our climb of Royal Flush.

Our camp

In March, Nate was lucky enough to secure us an overnight permit for camping in the Boulderfield, a vast sweep of rock located at 12,760 feet on the north side of Longs Peak. This spot provides quick access to the popular Keyhole Route (3rd) and North Face / Cables (5.4) route and more importantly (for us) to Fifth Avenue / Camel Gully or Chasm View Rappel Route, which can be used to access the base of Chasm View Wall or the Diamond, respectively. We camped in the Boulderfield for two nights (Friday and Saturday nights). Storms passed through both afternoons/evenings, but fortunately our tent kept us dry and warm. This was my first time camping overnight in the Boulderfield. What a marvelous place to hang out for the weekend!

Camp in the Boulderfield, with Longs Peak towering above in the evening light.

Enjoying a nice evening at camp.

Enjoying a nice afternoon at camp.Photo by Nate.

Camp in the Boulderfield.

There was water close to camp to collect. Because this area gets a lot of human traffic due to the proximity of the popular Keyhole Route and North Face / Cables route, we treated our water.

Evening logic puzzles and hot chocolate.

After-dinner reading.

Dinnertime. Photo by Nate.

Upon request, my mom had sent a care package of Canadian chocolate bars. Nate enjoyed his first ever Caramilk.

Another Canadian chocolate bar treat. Thanks mom!

Longs Peak and the Diamond in morning light.

A line at the outhouses in the Boulderfield.

Outhouses in the Boulderfield.

Cool handle on the outhouse.

Outhouses in the Boulderfield. Longs Peak in distance.

Cairn.

Cool swirls in a rock. Caused by heat and pressure.

More cool swirls.

I had fun making a map of the campsite locations in the Buolderfield.

This is the old foundation of the Boulderfield Inn. This 14'x18' inn was constructed in 1925. Because the Boulderfield is geologically unstable, the buildings were eventually pulled apart by the slow movement of the rocks upon which they were built; they discontinued service to climbers in 1936.

This is the old foundation of the Boulderfield Inn.

Another storm on the way....

The tent kept us dry.

Hot chocolate and book during the rain.

Nate likes his hot sauce.

Enjoying a couple of chapters on Sunday morning before hiking out. It had rained hard during the night and it seemed as if the rock would be wet, and the moisture in the air sure to cause cloud buildup and precipitation early in the day (indeed, it began to rain by 11am).

Morning light on the Diamond. I yearned to climb it, but we made the wise call to hike out due to the high likelihood for precipitation to move in. Indeed, it was raining by 11am.

Approach

The Boulderfield is an easy 6 miles from the Longs Peak Trailhead.

We hiked in on Friday afternoon, after waiting out an intense mid-day hail storm. There was evidence of the hail at the trailhead when we started hiking.