Steph's Diamond Beta Page
The Diamond on Longs Peak in Colorado is the most famous wall of alpine granite in the United States. One million square feet of vertical rock lying between 13,000 to 14,000 feet, with its top a mere 200 feet from the summit of Longs Peak. The Diamond is remote, cold, and susceptible to quick changes in weather. The climbing is steep and athletic and primarily cracks. All in all, the Diamond epitomizes the type of climbing I love. Every time I am up there, I find myself planning the next time I can return.
So far, I have climbed the Diamond 22 times via 8.5 different routes.
This following page lists the routes I've climbed on the Diamond, the main methods of approach and descent, and summarizes/compares the time stats of the various approaches and descents I have taken.
Table of Contents for this page
Routes I've Climbed on the Diamond
There are over 30 routes on the Diamond. I cannot seem to get enough of the Diamond and I will be sure to return again and again over the years now that I live in Boulder. I've climbed the Diamond 22 times by 8.5 different routes. These are shown in the overlay below and listed (with links) after the overlay.
Overlays
List of Routes with Links and Dates
Chronological order
Yellow Wall Pitches 1-4 + Forrest Finish (5.10, 6p) + Kiener's Route to summit
Pervertical Sanctuary (5.10d, 6p) + Casual Route (5.10a, 8p) link-up
D7 P1&P2 + Black Dagger (5.11a, 5p)
Curving Vine (5.11a, 6p) + Forrest Finish above Table Ledge to summit
D1 Pitches 1-4 (5.11, 4p)
D7 (5.11c, 5p) + Kiener's Route to summit
D7 (5.11c, 5p)
Yellow Wall Pitches 1-4 + Forrest Finish (5.10, 6p) + Kiener's Route to summit
Casual Route (5.10a, 8p) + Kiener's Route to summit
D7 (5.11c, 5p) + Kiener's Route to summit
Pervertical Sanctuary (5.10d, 6p)
Yellow Wall Pitches 1-4 + Forrest Finish (5.10, 6p)
D7 P1&P2 + Black Dagger (5.11a, 5p)
Casual Route (5.10a, 8p) + Kiener's Route to summit
Casual Route (5.10a, 8p) + Kiener's Route to summit
D7 (5.11c, 5p) + Kiener's Route to summit
Pervertical Sanctuary (5.10d, 6p) + toprope The Obelisk Pitches 4-6 (5.11b, 3p) + Kiener's Route to summit
Approach and Descent Options
Approach
There are 2 main methods of Approach:
1. NORTH CHIMNEY to Broadway Ledge. Most common way to get here is hiking in via Chasm Lake Cirque.
2. CHASM VIEW RAPPELS to Broadway Ledge. Most common way to get here is hiking in via Boulderfield.
(3. (Less common) CLIMB A ROUTE ON CHASM VIEW WALL and traverse left via CHASM VIEW CUT-OFF to Broadway Ledge.)
(4. (Even less common and kind of dangerous because of the traverse) CLIMB A ROUTE ON LOWER EAST FACE and traverse right on Broadway Ledge.)
Approach Option 1: NORTH CHIMNEY
Some snow getting into North Chimney (spikes/crampons helpful) and then loose 5.4 rock getting up North Chimney.
There are more random photos taken during this approach in my trip reports for Ariana, Curving Vine, D1, D7, Casual Route, Pervertical Sanctuary, Yellow Wall + Forrest Finish, Black Dagger, and Babies R Us.
Approach Option 2: CHASM VIEW RAPPELS
Chasm View to Broadway Ledge: 3 double-rope rappels of bolted rap stations.
There are more random photos taken during this approach in my trip reports for Yellow Wall + Forrest Finish, Casual Route, Pervertical Sanctuary, and Black Dagger.
Approach Option 3: CLIMB A ROUTE ON CHASM VIEW WALL and traverse left via CHASM VIEW CUT-OFF to Broadway Ledge
4-5 pitches, 5.10-5.12
There are more random photos taken during this approach in my trip reports for Directissima, Indirectissima, Red Wall, and Royal Flush.
Approach Option 4: CLIMB A ROUTE ON LOWER EAST FACE and traverse right on Broadway Ledge
~6 pitches, 5.8-5.12
In June 2020, we tried to traverse from the top of Kor's Door (a route up the Lower East Face) to the base of the Diamond, and encountered a steep and sloughy snowpatch hanging above Field's Chimney that we judged a bit too dangerous to cross. I have heard that in later summer once the snowpatch melts, that this section is steep loose talus. In general, this approach is not very safe and not recommended. But for the sake of completeness I decided to include it as at least an option for those willing to risk it.
There are some random photos of Broadway Ledge and this snowpatch in my trip report for Kor's Door.
Descent
There are 2 main methods of Descent:
1. From Table Ledge, use the DIAMOND RAPPEL ROUTE, which goes down the left side of Diamond and regain trail at Chasm Lake area. If you go to the summit, you can get to Table Ledge from the summit by reversing upper KIENER'S ROUTE (3rd and a few moves of 4th).
2. This descent starts from the summit. To get to the summit from Table Ledge, you can either scramble upper KIENER'S ROUTE (3rd and a few moves of 4th) to the summit, or climb some 5.10-5.12 route above Table Ledge to the top rim of the Diamond as we did in this trip report and from there scramble easily to the summit. Routes on the right side of the Diamond end at the top rim of the Diamond. From the summit, descend via the CABLES ROUTE/NORTH FACE (3rd class scramble and 2 single rope rappels or 5.4 downclimb) to Chasm View. From Chasm View, either descend to the Boulderfield to regain the trail or use CAMEL GULLY or FIFTH AVENUE and descend into Chasm Lake Cirque.
Note 1: Variations and combinations are possible. That is, you can combine either approach option with either descent option, although you might need to consider where to leave your extra stuff, or if you want to take it all with you.
Note 2: It is also possible to descend the KEYHOLE ROUTE (3rd) or the KEYHOLE RIDGE (5.6) route if you are okay with a bit of 5th class downclimbing. These are options if you tag the summit, don't want to do the DIAMOND RAPPEL ROUTE, and the CABLES ROUTE/NORTH FACE is icy.
Descent Option 1: DIAMOND RAPPEL ROUTE
Table Ledge to Broadway Ledge: 5 raps with double ropes (the established rap route is definitely set up for double rope raps).
Broadway Ledge to snowfield: 4 raps (90', 150', 150', 200').
There are more random photos taken during this descent in my trip reports for Ariana, Pervertical Sanctuary, Casual Route, Black Dagger, Yellow Wall + Forrest Finish, and Curving Vine.
Descent Option 2: KIENER'S ROUTE TO SUMMIT TO CABLES ROUTE/NORTH FACE
Climb to summit via Kiener's Route (4th) or via a route above Table Ledge (5.9-5.12 depending on route). The Cables Route descent takes you to Chasm View (3rd with 1-2 single rope raps). From Chasm View, either descend to the Boulderfield to intersect trail or head to CAMEL GULLY and descend Camel Gully back to Chasm Lake Cirque.
There are more random photos taken during this descent in my trip reports for Yellow Wall + Forrest Finish, D7, D1, Casual Route, and Kiener's to Cables.
Descent Connector Route 1: CAMEL GULLY
This route connects the ridge between Chasm View and Mt. Lady Washington with Chasm Lake Cirque. The route starts at a low point just south of Mt. Lady Washington, marked by a formation known as The Camel. The route ends in a gully that dumps you just above the northwest end of Chasm Lake. The route is mostly a 3rd class scramble down a rocky slope. If the goal is to get to the base of Chasm View Wall or North Chimney, then FIFTH AVENUE (described below) is a more direct option.
There are more random photos taken during this descent in my trip reports for D7, D1, and Directissima.
Descent Connector Route 2: FIFTH AVENUE
Like CAMEL GULLY, this route connects the ridge between Chasm View and Mt. Lady Washington with Chasm Lake Cirque. The route starts at a low point (the second lowest point) between Chasm View and Mt. Lady Washington, just south of the start of CAMEL GULLY. The route ends at a ramp system that leading to the base of Chasm View Wall. The general idea is to follow gullies and grassy ramps through 3rd-4th class terrain. FIFTH AVENUE is a shorter way to the base of Chasm View Wall and the base of the North Chimney than CAMEL GULLY. There seems to be a bit of confusion as to the exact route and route name (alternative names for Fifth Avenue include Fisherman's Folley, Fisherman's Fantasy, 42d Street, Positively 4th Street), but Bernard Gillette calls if Fifth Avenue so I will go with that!
There are more random photos taken during this descent in my trip reports for Royal Flush and Indirectissima and D7.
Time Stat Comparison for all of my Climbs on the Diamond
The following table summarizes/compares the time stats for the routes/approaches/descents I've done on the Diamond.
Below the table, I give a bit of discussion about times for the various approach and descent options.
Disclaimer: I consider myself to be an athletic and efficient climber of moderate speed on trail and rock and a pretty good track record of success. I know that climbers have achieved much quicker times on the Diamond than I have. On the other hand, climbers have achieved much slower times too. So take these times as a good benchmark for an athletic and competent party. Also, as I've become more familiar with the approaches/descents and dialed down the gear needed for the Diamond, my car-to-car time has improved quite a bit from my first couple of seasons on the Diamond. My fastest car-to-car time to date is 7 hours and 45 minutes in September 2022, simulclimbing Casual Route and tagging the summit. My fastest non-simulclimbing car-to-car time to date is just under 9 hours in August 2020, climbing D7 and tagging the summit.
Time Stats for all climbs I've done on the Diamond
Some comments about time splits
North Chimney vs. Chasm View rappels: Time from trailhead to base: In my 21 times (22 ascents) to the Diamond, I have approached via the North Chimney 18 times and via the Chasm View rappels 3 times. I have been dialing down the approach and also learning some shortcuts from my more seasoned partners, so my times have been improving; my fastest time to Broadway Ledge has been 2:37, via the North Chimney. I feel that 4 hours is a respectable approach time target for an average party. In my experience, the Chasm View rappels take about an hour longer than the North Chimney approach, all other things being equal (partner, shortcuts, no route-finding errors). The main benefit to the Chasm View approach is to avoid the North Chimney, which can be somewhat of a bowling alley when there are several parties approaching the Diamond. In early season, there may be some ice and snow in the North Chimney requiring a bit of mixed climbing; however, usually this means the Chasm View rappels are wet and have a giant snow patch at the base. So both options pose a challenge in the early season.
North Chimney vs. Chasm View rappels: My preference: In general, I prefer the North Chimney approach. It is faster and more direct. My preference is also to solo the North Chimney, to both save time (it takes just under 30 minutes from base to top for me to solo) and to avoid dragging a rope over loose terrain and potentially dislodging stuff onto partner or parties below. But no mistakes allowed when you solo. When there are parties above in the North Chimney, it feels a bit like Russian roulette.
Time to climb route: For the 8 routes I have climbed on the Diamond, it has taken anywhere between 2 to 8 hours to climb from Broadway Ledge to Table Ledge. As I've become more familiar with the approaches/descents and dialed down the gear needed for the Diamond, my car-to-car time has improved quite a bit from my first couple of seasons on the Diamond. My fastest car-to-car time to date is 7:45 in September 2021, simulclimbing the Casual Route and tagging the summit. (My fastest car-to-car time without simulclimbing has been just under 9 hours in August 2020, climbing D7 and tagging the summit.) I consider myself to be an efficient climber of a moderate pace, fast and athletic enough to climb two routes on the Diamond in one day (Pervertical+Casual in 2018) and summit Longs after a climb on the Diamond. But I usually feel pretty challenged by the pitches on the Diamond.
There are various factors influencing my route times for my climbs of the Diamond, such as: familiarity with the Diamond; partner; time spent waiting for other parties on the route; wet vs. dry conditions; route difficulty. My slowest time by far was the first time I climbed Yellow Wall + Forrest Finish (8:10), but this was only the second time I had climbed the Diamond and we had to wait at every single belay for the pitch above us to clear out due to a few routes merging into ours at Crossover Ledge. D1 also took awhile (6:47), but this is one of the longest routes on the Diamond, with some difficult climbing on suspect rock. My fastest times have been simuclimbing the Casual Route (1:59), D7 (3:26), not simulclimbing the Casual Route (3:30), and Yellow Wall + Forrest Finish (3:45); on all of these ascents, we had no other parties on our route and the rock was completely dry and my partner and I shared an enjoyment of hyper efficiency.
(As a humbling sidenote regarding my own personal best car-to-car time, in August 2020, Wade Morris and Stefan Griebel set the fastest car-to-car time of 3:53:59, on the Casual Route. Wow. Then, in August 2021, Maury Birdwell free soloed the route with an even faster car-to-car time of 3:26:12. Wow again.)
Time from Table Ledge to trailhead: In my 21 times (22 ascents) to the Diamond, I have descended via the Diamond Rappel Route 10 times, descended from the summit via the Cables Route/North Face 10 times, and rapped D1 once (we were bailing from the top of Pitch 4). It seems to take me roughly 4 hours from Table Ledge to trailhead on a descent via the Diamond Rappel Route. I have found that the quickest descent (about 3 hours from Table Ledge to trailhead, fastest time being 2:46) is to descend from the summit via the Cables Route/North Face and intersect the trail in the Boulderfield (rather than using the Camel Gully to reenter Chasm Lake Cirque), and this involves tagging the summit along the way! (Note that if you do descend the Cables Route/North Face, you cannot leave anything on Broadway Ledge. If you intersect the trail at the Boulderfield, you also cannot leave anything in Chasm Lake Cirque.)
Diamond Rappel Route vs. Summit + Cables/North Face descent: My preference: I prefer the Cables/North Face descent, for a few reasons: (1) Can climb with one rope, (2) It's proven to be a bit quicker if you don't leave anything in Chasm Lake Cirque, (3) You can summit Longs, and (4) It avoids having to make about 10 rappels. The raps on the Diamond Rappel Route are pretty clean, but there is always the chance of getting a rope stuck. Or more likely just getting stuck behind a slow rappelling party. Even though the Cables is my preferred descent, it is important to note that most parties end up using the Diamond Rappel Route, because they wish to leave stuff below the route or because of weather or fatigue.
A Few Photos
Just a few random photos....
