Chasm View Wall

Other routes I've climbed on Chasm View Wall:

Babies R Us (5.12a, 5p, toprope) • Directissima (5.10b, 4p) • Indirectissima (5.9, 4-6p) • Red Wall (5.10b, 6p) • Royal Flush (5.11c, 10p) • Sharp on Both Ends (5.11d, 6p)

Category: Colorado (RMNP)Top-out Elev: ~13,500 ftRock Type: Granite

This page contains two trip reports:

Date: September 7, 2019 (Sat)Trip Report #: 366Partner: Giles Eperon

Date: June 22, 2022 (Wed)Trip Report #: 550Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route: Directissima (5.10b, 4p)

A short day sunny climb at 13,000 feet, or a nice link-up into a route on the Diamond.

Table of Contents for this page

Route Overlay

Trip Report #1 (September 2019)

Trip Report #2 (June 2022)

Route Overlay

(Displays route overlays for Babies R Us (5.12a, 5p), Royal Flush (5.11c, 10p), Red Wall (5.10b, 6p), Directissima (5.10b, 4p), Sharp on Both Ends (5.11d, 6p), and Indirectissima (5.9, 4-6p), all of which I have climbed.)

Trip Report #1 (September 2019)

(first time climbing Directissima)

Enjoying excellent rock and views on Directissima

If the content appears to be truncated here, you may need to put your cursor in the region of text above the red line and scroll down to see more!

Trip Report #2 (June 2022)

(second time climbing Directissima)

Intro

Nate and I were looking for a good early season alpine day. Directissima on Chasm View Wall sounded like a good objective. We had both climbed this route once before, but it checks all of the boxes: sunny, good rock, good protection, good climbing, spectacular position, and the altitude to be a good fitness day.

Despite the great weather, we had the place nearly to ourselves (mostly due to the fact it was early in the season, and also a Wednesday). There was one party on The Diamond, one party ascending Lambs Slide, and just Nate and I on Chasm View Wall. We enjoyed the climb, a nice lunch at the top, and a casual hike out. The entire adventure took about 8 hours car to car, and we were back in Estes Park by early afternoon. I worked on some new job business and trip report and Nate went to work for a few hours, before my parents (who were visiting for the week) came over and we enjoyed Pizza and Jimmy Johns on the porch, gazing up at Longs Peak area where we had been earlier that day.

This page gives a trip report from our climb. Enjoy!

Time Stats

Longs Peak Trailhead: 5:53 am
Base of route: 8:03 am (2:10 from car)
Start climbing: 8:44 am
Top of route: 11:31 am (2:47 to climb route)
Start descent: 11:56 am
Longs Peak Trailhead: 2:17 pm (2:21 back to car)
Car-to-car time: 8:24

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

3rd-4th

Approach Chasm View Wall via Chasm View Lake. From the right edge of the Mills Glacier, scramble (mostly 3rd, some 4th) up and right along the long ramp system, continuing up and right to the highest ledges at the bottom of the Directissima corner system.

A nice sunny morning on the approach. That is Meeker and Longs in the distance.

On the approach.

A short snowfield. The snow conditions were ideal for just booting across.

Diamond and Chasm View Wall towering above, Chasm Lake below.

Approaching the base of Chasm View Wall. We had brought spikes just in case the snow was icy, but it was just soft enough to boot up.

The 4th class scramble to the base of the route.

This route was a the debut for my new TC pros!

Pitch 1

5.8

Climb a left-leaning right-facing dihedral system to a ramp beneath a small roof. There is an old bolt and a nice horn here.

Looking up Pitch 1.

Starting up Pitch 1.

Higher on Pitch 1.

An old bolt at the belay location at the top of Pitch 1.

Belay anchor at the top of Pitch 1.

A nice view of the Diamond from here.

Pitch 2

5.9

Climb straight up past the right end of the roof, pass through a slot, and continue up the dihedral to a belay at a bolt beneath a flake-roof.

Nate starting up Pitch 2. The start is a bit burly for 5.9, but it's all there, protects well, and is quite good climbing.

Fun crack climbing on Pitch 2.

An old bolt at the belay location at the top of Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.9+

Climb over the overhanging flake and continue up into a chimney. The chimney narrows into a squeeze and then a wide crack. Pull around a flake and continue up featured terrain to a small ledge. The chimney/squeeze/OW is the strenuous crux of the route. This pitch makes a good argument for not wearing packs on this route. There are at least two old fixed cams on this pitch along with a couple of old protection bolts.

Nate leading off Pitch 3.

Higher on Pitch 3.

Even higher. The cam in the photo has been there for several years.

Old bolt (made with sawn piton) to give an uncertain sense of protection on the wide section on Pitch 3. There are some old cams to clip as well. Plus just bring a #4.

Another old bolt (made with sawn piton) to give an uncertain sense of protection on the wide section on Pitch 3.

An old pin.

Pitch 4

5.10b

Climb a dihedral to a roof and make a committing move to a good jam (crux). Follow a crack through featured rock to the top of the wall.

Looking up Pitch 4.

Looking up from just below the crux.

A fixed pin on Pitch 4.

An old bolt on Pitch 4. This protects a wider section which can also be protected with a #4 cam.

Top

The route tops out on ridge just below Chasm View.

View from the top of the route, looking towards Mt. Lady Washington. We hiked out left and intersected the trail at the Boulderfield.

Descent

If you brought your gear up, the easiest way out is to hike down towards the Boulderfield, intersect the trail, and hike out. Alternatively, return to Chasm Lake Cirque via The Camel Gully and hike out. We hiked out via the Boulderfield.