HANDLING OF SHEEP AND GOATS
Purpose
Proper handling of animals helps in making the animals docile, ensures the safety of the attendant, facilitates examination and exercising of the animals, their training for show purposes, and the performance of many of the managerial operations necessary for profitable production.
Sheep behaviour : An understanding of some behavioural traits of sheep will make the catching, handling, weighing and moving of the animals much easier:-
§ Most breeds of sheep are naturally gregarious; that is, they stay close to one another. This trait is called "flocking instinct". A sheep which remains apart is usually ailing in some respect.
§ Sheep tend to follow a lead sheep while moving.
§ They do not like to move towards direct sunlight, but will move towards light when in a darkened area.
§ They will not approach an unfamiliar area without being forced to do so, but will usually enter an open gate or door.
§ They do not like to walk in water or muddy areas, or on sharp gravel or cinders.
§ They will rather crawl under a fence than jump over it.
§ In range areas, only the psychological restraint that the shepherd has over his flock, or a good pair of sheep dogs, are used to control the animals.
Catching sheep : Individual sheep can be forced into the corner of a pen. If they are facing you, they can be caught by holding the loose skin or wool under the chin. If they are moving away from you, they should be caught by the loose skin in the rear flank until you can grasp them under the chin. The head should be held high enough to control them, or else it will be difficult to handle.
Moving sheep :-
§ Keep the flock together when moving them.
§ Move the flock slowly and quietly without exciting them.
§ If one or two sheep break away from the flock, try to hold the flock together; the strays will usually return.
§ If the flock is to turned into a barn or pasture, send an assistant or a dog ahead of them to accomplish this.
Handling goats : This is relatively easy as the goats are neither strong enough nor aggressive enough to escape the grasp.
§ Many truly tame goats can be handled with nothing more than one hand under the chin and the other hand behind the poll on the upper neck. Goats dislike being held by horns or ears.
§ If a collar or identification chain is present, use it to handle the goat. Most goats will stop struggling to escape if you grasp the collar or chain and slip it up towards the base of the skull. Small goats can be held by holding one leg.
§ If the goat continues to struggle in escape attempts, place an adjustable halter over its head.
§ The over-aggressive buck can be controlled with a halter, collar and ring, and shortened bullstaff with a spring snap at the end. Whatever the method of handling, the buck goat should be respected. He is dangerous and unpredictable, particularly during the breeding season. He is most likely to charge and butt you or rear up and flail out at you with his front legs and feet.
§ The horns of any goat of any age should be considered dangerous.
Controlling goats : To control the goat is to limit his range of movement. This means that either fences or a tether system become necessary.
§ Construct all fences so that they are a minimum of 48-54 inches tall (60-66 inches for bucks).
§ Barbed wire fencing should be avoided as it will catch and tear the goats' hides as they run into it, lean against it, or stick their heads through it.
§ Chain link fencing with posts at 6 feet distance has the fewest drawbacks and is also the most expensive. It should always be used for the buck pen.
§ A mound of earth that is 5-6 feet tall and 5' x 5' at its top should be constructed in the centre of the buck pen to provide exercise and prevent boredom.
§ Tethering the goat involves the use of a collar, ring, several lengths of chain and a tether stake. The stake, which has a freely revolving ring at its top, is driven into the ground. A length of chain is attached to it and to the collar ring on the goat. As the day progresses and the grass is grazed away, another length of chain can be added to the existing one.
§ An alternative form of tethering involves the use of two stakes, from 10' to 100' apart, with a stout wire or cable stretched between them. A short chain (2-3' long) is clipped to it and then to the collar ring of the goat. This arrangement is called the "running tether" and is usually better for the goat in that it provides more exercise and free choice of sun or shade.
§ When given the opportunity to choose, always allow the goats to roam freely. Tethering is a very poor alternative to freedom of movement.
You are visitor number
Please post your comments and suggestions here
Disclaimer : The information on this site is meant as an aid to students and fellow veterinarians and should be used for educational purposes only. The views expressed are solely that of the author and should not be construed to be that of his employer or any other organization.