Bamboo is a grass and there are as many as 2,000 kinds identified so far so there are plenty to choose from.
Two Basic Types.
Bamboos are split into two major groups, runners (leptomorphs) and clumpers (pachymorphs). If you are thinking of planting your own be warned that the running type will take over your world, literally. I have seen it take over a 3 acre yard in Orlando, destroying a swimming pool in the process.
from Texas Bamboo Society
Selecting culms.
I like long node lengths for a smooth interior of the flute (see the My Bamboo section below). But I have made flutes from various types of bamboo with short node lengths as well, using a spade bit to open the tube up to an even inside diameter. I don't like bamboo that has deep notches at the nodes.
Cutting the culms
I cut the culms as close to the ground as I can using a hacksaw. Then I cut the stems up to fit on my truck, removing the tops in the process. I try to cut mostly the mature culms that are already changing color, unless I need to trim a plant to open up the grove a bit.
caring for the cut culms
I dry the culms in my garage attic. Don't leave them in direct sun, or they will crack. if they get wet they will get moldy or rot. After the pieces have dried for a few months, I cut it all up into flute blanks, and sort them by size into boxes.
tempering bamboo
Bamboo 'wood' consists of bundles of microscopic fibers laid parallel to each other, much like the strands within the sheath of a bridge cable. The spaces between adjacent bundles or cords of the bamboo are filled with lignin, a thermoplastic resin. Toward the outer surface of the hollow shell the number of these fibrous strands increases rapidly. Just below the outer protective enamel, bamboo is composed almost entirely of these cellulose fibers
I find that if I heat the bamboo, the resin will melt and the molecular structure seems to change, making the bamboo much harder and resistant to cracking. It also gives the outer surface a shiny finish, like varnish. I use a propane torch on a bottle of camping gas for a heat source, rotating the bamboo in the flame to keep from burning it. It gives an interesting pattern as the heat is never uniform on all parts.
<faqs>
question: How can I find out what kind of bamboo I have
answer: Bamboo is notoriously difficult to identify more specifically than the species, unless there is something particularly remarkable about it. There are, by some estimates, as many as 2,000 kinds identified so far
Contacting a local chapter of the American Bamboo Society (ABS) and asking for help is probably the best idea. Be ready to answer a few questions. Is the plant entirely green? Are there any colors on the culms? Are the leaves variegated? What’s the average size of the leaves? How many branches typically come out of each node along the culm? How tall is it? How thick are the culms? Is it growing in clumps or are the culms spread out over a large area? Do the new shoots have a particular color? Sending along a close-up photo of any distinguishing parts of the bamboo might help.
question: How do I take care of my bamboo?
answer: Taking care of bamboo is easy. If it seems to be doing well enough without care, anything you add will be an improvement. Any fertilizer (but not weed-n-feed types) that is sold for grass would be appropriate, though manure from any animal, compost or fish fertilizer would be just fine. Many bamboo people recommend organic, slow-release formulas. Bamboo needs quite a bit of water so if you have a long dry spell during the summer and the leaves curl, it’s past time to water.
Some bamboos do better in full sun, others in full shade. If you know what variety of bamboo you have, you can check the ABS Species Source List for the bamboos Sun/Shade index.
Don’t remove the leaves that drop from the plant, it serves as mulch around the base of the plant. The leaves contain silica that the plant will need for future growth and it keeps down weeds.
Bamboo culms (stalks) reach their maximum height in the first growing season and then, each year after that, usually add branches, until the culm is five to seven years old. Then it should be thinned out of the grove. Use a fine-toothed saw for large-diameter bamboo or sharp clippers for smaller-diameter culms.
If you notice light colored splotches on the tops of the leaves and silvery spots on the bottom of the leaves, you have bamboo mites. These don’t kill the bamboo, but they do make it look less beautiful. There are insecticidal soaps, home-brew remedies and biological controls that bamboo people try. If the discoloration doesn’t bother you, don’t do anything.
question: How do I preserve bamboo culms for craft work
answer: The physical properties of bamboo make it a wonderful resource for craft work. However, the initial challenge for the craftsman is making sure the the culms will not be destroyed by beetles or fungal attacks or ruined by cracks and splits. A few basic rules may help for a successful harvest. Age, season of cutting, and post-cutting treatments are all crucial aspects. The culms should be mature (four to eight years) and should be harvested in the dry season.
It is also recommended to harvest in the “young” season, when the new shoots are at their maximum height but have not leafed out yet. At this point mature culms are less susceptible to pests attack because they are rich in fiber rather then starch. Low moisture content also minimizes deterioration.
Once the culms are harvested they are best placed in a well-ventilated, covered, shaded area, avoiding direct wind or sun as a quick drying may cause splitting. Heating techniques are also used to “cure” the culms. In addition culms can be coated with tung oil. Nevertheless, it’s suggested that non-chemically treated culms are eventually destined to deteriorate because of biological attacks, especially if outdoors and exposed to rain. For this reason it is often recommended to treat culms with chemical mixes based on boric acid, borax, (Tim-Bor) and insecticides. Culms could be impregnated by submersion, or left standing in buckets filled with the curing product.
A very thorough review of bamboo presevation techniques is covered in the Bamboo Preservation Compendium written by Dr. Walter Liese and Dr. Satish Kumar. The book describes the various pests and molds that afflict dried bamboo and the many treatments used in construction and crafts.
question: How do I work with bamboo in crafts?
answer: Nancy Bess, Arts & Crafts Coordinator, provided this answer. “I am a basket maker and use a little bamboo in my work; however, I have watched lots of Japanese craftspeople at work, so I’ll share what I have learned. Also, there is a new book that is out now from Carol Stangler. Called The Craft and Art of Bamboo (Lark Books, ISBN: 1579901913), it covers lots of the questions having to do with tools and procedures. I know she interviewed the Lingens who are fence builders.
I use a paint stripping gun to bend bamboo. The pieces I use in the garden are about 3/4” wide and quite stiff. I pass the gun back and forth (it will scorch if you hold it in one place) over a four to five inch area -- you can actually feel the cell structure break down -- practice so you can control how much and how sharp the angle is. Where it cools down is where it stays. If you try bending after a long period of soaking, then where it dries is where it stays. Lots of craftspeople who make a product, make a jig (headless nails into plywood works) into which they can drop the hot (or wet) bamboo. This way they can produce identical pieces...if they want.
Many Japanese craftspeople use a heat source (boiling bath for some, gas oven for others, hibachi for many) to help remove the oil that is in bamboo. They roll the bamboo over (or in) the heat source and continually wipe the surface with a clean rag, much like stripping furniture. The bamboo must move continually or splotching occurs. Oil is removed to make the bamboo less inviting to insects, to harden it and stabilize the color. Air dry after - bamboo is a plant after all and loves to get mildew, etc.
Most craftspeople harvest bamboo when it is between two and five years old. The tissue is too soft before two years and it starts to deteriorate after five (some books say seven). Some craftspeople (especially for fences, work baskets, etc.) use bamboo green. For high quality products, the bamboo is aged. Dried in the sun, stored, oil removed, air dried.”
Links:
My Bamboo: The Bamboo I have been using...
this is the bamboo I cut in Orlando and in Ocala National forest at my friend's property. It is a clumper, with very long internodal lengths. Culms turn gold if in sun; about 30 ft tall. Not very thickwalled except near the root ends. I'm not sure what it is. I thought it was Golden Bamboo, but that has a green stripe and the branches look very different.
: possibly? SCHIZOSTACHYUM - A genus of CLUMPING bamboos from SE Asia
SCHIZOSTACHYUM jaculans: 7m x 3.5cm, - In the open it forms an attractive mushroom shaped clump, amongst trees the culms are straighter and more erect . The long internodes are used for making flutes and blowpipes
from Wikipedia
Schizostachyum is a tall or shrub-like tropical genus of bamboo. The genus name comes from Greek schistos ("cleft") and stachys ("spike"), referring to the spacing of spikelets.
These are clumping, and sometimes climbing bamboos. The genus has about 35 species found in East Asia.
There are some good photos of what looks to be the same bamboo at bamboocraft.net; the poster is trying to identify the plants.
Texas bamboo on the ground, Florida 'golden bamboo' on the truck.
bambusa oldhamii? Phyllostachys aurea?
the bamboo I am finding in Texas has more nodes, with makes interesting flutes (after I drill out the extra nodes) and when heated it gives off more sugars and ends up with a varnished look.
Flute Binding
A technique for binding flutes using a length of string and a special knot-tying technique. You can bind your flute to prevent cracking (especially on bamboo flutes) or as an emergency repair. Bindings are particularly important if you live in a low-humidity environment or use central heating in the winter. The site I used to link to seems to be dead now. Below is an image but knot tying really needs a video. Will have to make one when I have some time.
Flute Binding
A technique for binding flutes using a length of string and a special knot-tying technique. You can bind your flute to prevent cracking (especially on bamboo flutes) or as an emergency repair. Bindings are particularly important if you live in a low-humidity environment or use central heating in the winter. The site I used to link to seems to be dead now. Below is an image but knot tying really needs a video. Will have to make one when I have some time.