Training Tips from Us

Our Disclaimer: If you talk to 12 different dog trainers, you will get 12 different answers about how to train a dog. We like the suggestions we have given, but these are not your only options. There are many different approaches to training a dog. Some will conflict with what we have mentioned below. That's ok. If you find something different than what we have here and if you feel it will work, then for sure try it out. For instance here is one technique to stop a dog from eating off the counter ---- and then here's another technique to stop a dog from eating off the counter. We think both of these methods are positive and effective. One might work for your dog better than the other. Our point is that each dog is different. A correct training concept can be applied in different ways, and if you are consistent then the outcome will be success.

Here'a quick article that is worth reading right away. This article discusses some important concepts regarding the "language" that dogs use the most. It's not verbal language, it's body language. It has a fairly traumatic video showing a very sad scenario with a child. We don't want to scare any one about Vizslas, but we do want to emphasize that dogs use body language more than audible language to communicate. When you understand this, then you can begin to let your dog speak to you visually and you'll understand them more and be able to anticipate what you need to do next with them.

Bonding with your dog is your first priority. When you have a strong bond, then you will train faster. We feel strongly that a "positive approach" to dog training is the best way to train your puppy. If you get frustrated and resort to other methods, like remote controlled shock collars, then you may have a lifetime of complications from them. Shock collars can be unintentionally misunderstood by your dog which can cause severe problems. Read this article about the unintended consequences of shock collars.

Having correct expectations about what it takes to train a puppy can help you begin to prepare to train with a positive mindset. Vizslas are very smart and will learn. They are also very sensitive and will "sense" your frustrations and the bond you have with them will be compromised. Here's a short little video about some correct expectations to have when starting to train your pup.

We LOVE the concepts that "positive approach" dog training experts use. Please take some time and absorb these concepts. We feel a strong obligation to help train YOU. It's only then, that you can train your puppy for a lifetime of great experiences with your dog. We LOVE the following experts and feel you can apply the concepts they use:

Zak George He has a great "Free" YouTube channel that we highly suggest you subscribe to and watch every video. Yup, watch every video. Why? Because you will learn the concepts that can be applied to so many situations.

Chet Womach with the DogTrainingSecret.com --- these are more of a "pay" to learn platform, but he does have some free content and wonderful articles.

We believe in YOU. We know you can train your puppy to be a wonderful companion if you know 1) how to handle various situations 2) set yourself up for success and 3) know what to do when you have set backs.

Before Puppy Arrives

Get prepared first: Supplies

• Food - Store in a bulk container that’s rodent proof in a cool, dry space. (keeps puppy out too)
• Bowls - we prefer the no tip version
• Crate
• Bed
• 4’-6’ Leash and Long Line Leash (any type of suitable, but light weight cord or rope about 20+ ft)
• Collar - we like metal buckles. The type with plastic clips might break and puppy could get injured.
• Predetermine and write down your one word commands (everyone uses same one) for behaviors. For safety reasons, try to train “Come” first. “Sit” is fairly easy to do next., Down, Stay, Out, Bed, Heel, Drop it, Crate, Potty
• Clicker and treat bag

Get ready to Love

• Pet from head to toe - gently
• Roll onto back slowly for belly rubs.
• Chin rub
• Don’t hold puppy to show affection after you get them. Pick them up when necessary, but try to limit it. For example, it’s ok to pick them up during potty training breaks, transportation, vet shots, etc. but don’t hold them for the fun of it. Have them lay down or sit for affection. This will greatly help with the puppy not jumping up on you later in life.
• No holding them on laps - unless you like a 50 lb lap dog.
• Don't allow puppy to lick you.
• No paws on people…..ever. You’ll thank us later
• Puppy name recognition - say it frequently during praise.

Be prepared to have Fun

• Toys
• Treats: regular and “jack pot”. Jack Pot treats are something super tasty. Treats should be in very small pieces, since you don’t want them to fill up on them and not eat regular meals.
• Clicker on hand
• Higher pitched voice for praise
• Leash Intro - Just hook leash on while playing sometimes, no expectations

Our positive approach with being "Alpha"

Start Potty Training -

• Puppy is ready to begin. Our puppy room taught them to leave “their space” to potty.
• Have reasonable expectations. It will take a while to develop bladder control, especially for all night. It will take a while to develop your home as “their space.”
• Puppy needs to “Go” within a few minutes after eating, drinking, sleeping and playing
• Have ready: Paper towels, Vinegar spray bottle, newspapers, etc
• Know the signals - They will stir, circle, sniff, sometimes walk to an “edge.”
• Carry them and touch their nose to the Bell on potty door from the beginning. Say “Potty”
• On leash, introduce Puppy to your whole house, so they know it’s “their space”
• No food or drink within the two hours before bed. Potty right before bed. If puppy is stirring during the night, then take them out.
• Predictable feeding routines will also create more predictable potty times. Don't give constant access to food during potty training.
• Keep their crate by your bed so you can hear them stirring since they might not whine to go potty!
• Click and treat with word “Potty” for successful outside potty.
• Optional: Designated potty area outside, must have defined edges to start in order to be effective.

How to appropriately discipline for problem puppy behavior

• We say “Eh Eh” to correct them. We don’t say “NO” because it’s something they’ll hear in normal conversation.
• Normal, but undesired, puppy behaviors include
  • Mouthing (when it doesn't hurt): insert your hand farther into puppy's mouth to an appropriate level of discomfort only long enough to be uncomfortable. Video
  • Biting (hurts): You should “yelp” high pitched and loud, then discontinue interaction with puppy for a short time (walk away, turn around etc).
  • Chewing: Replace with something they can chew. Until they are done teething, they will want to chew almost anything. Here's a video that discusses this more.
  • Whining: Ignore at all costs. Wait until they are quiet before giving attention.
  • Barking: Birds, squirrels, strangers...oh my. Verbal “Eh eh” and distract them with a positive activity.
• Separation/Time out area (short periods of time) : Used for Biting, Whining, Barking etc. - Don’t use crate as discipline area for time out
• Turn your back: Ignoring them will cause them to rethink what they are doing.
• Walk away: After yelping and after other undesirable things behaviors to get them to rethink what they did.
• Jumping up on you/others: Step into them to take their space as “Alpha.” The goal is not to make them tip over, but if you do cause them to lose balance or tip over it's ok.
• All fun stops with undesirable behaviors.

This video has some great thoughts about stopping the puppy biting behavior

Training Prep - set yourself up for success

• No FOOD for a couple of hours before training. Training before their breakfast or dinner is good.
• Potty time first
• Play vigorously for a while to burn off their initial energy and allow them their excitement they feel for you just being around.
• Potty time again (might not go)
• Clicker ready
• Treats ready in a bag - regular treats and JACK POT treats.
• Proper expectations - Don’t expect much and be pleased with the slightest improvement and your patience will be rewarded. Dogs have an instinct and will sense your frustration, anger, impatience. Focus on yourself feeling calm and relaxed and happy and the puppy will sense that instead.
• Short sessions about 2-3 minutes or less if puppy gets distracted.
• You can start training again in 10 minutes after puppy’s distraction gets boring again.
• Pretty soon, their attention span will increase and the training progress will really take off.
• You can do several sessions a day and 2-3 per day is our minimum recommendation.
• Tackle one behavior at a time in a session. Not multiple behaviors in one session, but you can review behaviors that they are good at.
• Train in a quiet, neutral and confined space. Somewhere they can’t get in too much trouble or wander off. Let them play freely in this area for a few minutes prior to training, so they get “bored” and will think training is fun. We start in a "boring" bathroom. It has tile floors in case of an accident and it's small enough they can't go far from us. Gradually expand where you train, only after puppy has mastered the “boring” room with that behavior. Go back to the boring room for training new behaviors. New rooms will have new distractions, so expect puppy to falter in new spaces until they have learned YOU are the coolest thing on the planet and distractions are always less fun.
• Whenever possible you should end training on a success.
• Keep your thoughts to yourself. Remember….dogs don’t talk. No big surprise. But if you are always chit chatting at your dog, they will learn to tune you out.

Clicker Preparation

Here's another video that shares our same philosophy about clicker training.

This video has a creative way of implementing a clicker and associating it with maintaining your dogs attention.

Recall Training - should be one of your top priorities and can be started day 1

• Start inside your home. Say “Come”
• When puppy does, praise them like crazy and treat them with something SUPER tasty, since recall is a big deal. Give a variety of treats, and be sure to Jack Pot them occasionally.
• If you said it 1,000 times before it worked, still praise them when they finally came. Don’t discipline for failures because they’ll associate “punishment” with coming back to you and then they won’t recall nearly as well.
• When playing, they may come without being asked. They are “checking back” with you. Never ignore them when they do this…..always praise it.
• Try “Come” in a new room.
• Try a hallway with almost no distractions. Have someone else hold your puppy back while you say “come” and act really excited….make the puppy really want to come. Then release.
• If puppy starts to get distracted along the way, you can try to support the command, and their effort, by giving a lot of verbal praise and acting all excited and happy.
• Sometimes running away from puppy will activate their instinct to follow and get the command back on track.
• Circle of Family - have all the family get in a large circle and take turns calling puppy’s name and treating the success. This helps ensure the puppy gets used to everyone’s different voices.
• Confined area recalls outside - Practice outside in a confined space
• Long Line Recalls - practice in a new “open” space outside with the long line (parks etc)
• Hide and Seek - with 2 people, practice inside or outside somewhere you can hide behind obstructions. It’s ok if they see where you went. Just give the command when you are out of sight.
• Try off leash “come” outside, when you are confident, they “get it” and in a place they won’t get hurt if by chance they venture off with their new found freedom.

Here's another video from a credible dog trainer with his approach to this behavior.

Here's a video demonstrating the "hide and seek" variation of recall training. Recall training can be accomplished in many ways and the pups really respond to this version because it compliments their instinct to not be left behind when their pack is on the move.

Crate Training

• We have introduced them to crates during their play time here. They shouldn’t feel “trapped” because they have already played in them and have a positive association with them. They may whine because they are missing their litter mates.
• They should “LOVE” their crate. Make it a positive space always. You’ll thank us later.
• Treat them every time they go in the crate for the next several months. And then treat whenever you feel you need to reinforce/refresh their attitude with the Crate.
• Leave a Jack Pot treat in the crate every once in a while.
• Leave the door open to begin with and place toys in it. Crate is a happy place.

MORE Training helps on the next behaviors are on their way

Sit Training - after clicker has been introduced

Lay Down Training - after Sit has a high level of success

Here's a video about some examples of getting the Lay Down behavior started.

Leash Manners -

It's ok if you don't get it right the first time....watch us struggle too.

We didn't set ourselves up for success with the "timing" of the first part of this video. This pup wasn't motivated as she had already eaten a big breakfast and had been tuckered out from playing for an hour and a half in the back yard. This training session completely flopped.

We laugh at it now. Then watch until the middle part of the video to see a pup that is in the middle stage of this process (sorry audio on this section gave us problems again Ugh). The last part of this video is of Meadow. She's not perfect with leash manners but she's definitely a fun running and biking buddy!

Leave It Alone

The Trio of 1 -Tug of War 2- Leave It 3- Fetch

Wait/Stay

Door Manners

Gate Manners

Fetch/Drop it