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Hyderabad
For more than a decade, the winds of change have been blowing hard on this bit of the Deccan Plateau, breathing life into an old city. Now, Hyderabad houses IT companies, MNCs and BPOs; it is a powerhouse for the pharmaceutical industry. It’s seen the steady rise of Tollywood, world-class educational institutions, an excellent airport and a stream of luxury hotels and designer labels. Fortunately, old Hyderabad’s gems—incredibly good Nawabi cuisine, a fascinating museum, Islamic art and culture, the pulsing Charminar area—are still alive and accessible.
MONUMENTS
Charminar
The Charminar area in the centre of the Old City of Hyderabad gets its name from this four-minaret monument. The massive gateway which opens out into all four directions—north, south, east and west—was built by Mohammed Quli Qutab Shah in 1591 in gratitude to God for ending a plague. Inside you will find a madrasa on one floor and a mosque on the other. From the roof of the archway, visitors get picture-perfect views of the Old City but in an attempt to preserve the monument, the Archaeological Survey of India has prohibited entry.
Chowmahalla Palace
Chowmahalla, meaning four palaces, was built to resemble the Tehran palace of the Shah of Iran. Completed in 1869 and spread over 45 acres, this UNESCO World Heritage Site now sits on 12 acres of land. Today, you can see evidence of its original grandeur and Persian influences—two painstakingly restored courtyards, fountains, gardens, palaces and the opulent Khilwat (or Durbar Hall), which was the seat of the Nizam's power. The beautiful Aftab Mahal, supported by Corinthian columns, is the grandest of the palaces but presently under renovation. The exquisite stucco-worked pillars of the Khilwat stand out against its pure white interiors but we expect the 19 recently re-installed Belgian crystal chandeliers to really amaze you. Today, the Chowmahalla Palace is at the centre of the city's cultural happenings and regularly hosts art shows and book readings. CNT tip: the Palace and its grounds can be rented for very exclusive events. We think it’s a magical location for a wedding.
(www.chowmahalla.com)
Mecca Masjid
As Hyderabad's largest and oldest mosque, Mecca Masjid can hold up to 10,000 devotees. This site also houses the tombs of the Nizams of the Asaf Jahi Dynasty—the rulers of Hyderabad from 1803 onwards.
Birla Temple
This intricately carved temple is made entirely of white marble sourced from Rajasthan and overlooks the beautiful Hussain Sagar Lake. Spectacularly lit every evening, the temple offers stunning views of the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad.
Buddha Statue
Located in the middle of tranquil Hussain Sagar Lake, this Buddha idol is the world’s largest monolithic statue to be carved completely from a single block of white granite. The boat ride to reach the statue makes for a wonderful Hyderabadi experience.
MUSEUMS
HEH The Nizam’s Museum
Colloquially called Purani Haveli, part of this structure is a museum where you’ll find the world’s largest wardrobe, as well as one of the last manually operated lifts still in working condition.
Charminar, Hyderabad (+91 40 2452 1029)
Salar Jung Museum
Highlights from this museum include Arabic and Persian manuscripts, South Indian bronzes, Chinese porcelain and the Nizams’ Jewels—a collection of 173 pieces—that includes the 184-carat Jacob Diamond used by the seventh Nizam as a paperweight, as well as a set of 22 uncut Columbian emeralds.
Afzalgunj, Hyderabad (+91 40 2457 6443; www.salarjungmuseum.in)
ART AND THEATRE
Lamakaan
Lamakaan is the city’s hotspot for various cultural activities—arts and literature to theatre, debate and dialogue, you can experience it all here. From Kuchipudi to Pecha Kucha, there’s always something to watch or listen to.
Lamakaan, Banjara Hills, Hyderabad (+91 96427 31329; www.lamakaan.com)
Kalakriti Art Gallery
Boasting a fine selection of contemporary Indian art from across the country, Kalakriti Art Gallery showcases the works of celebrated artists like SH Raza and Shakti Burman, alongside work from rising stars of the country’s art scene.
Kalakriti Art Gallery, 468, Road No 10, Banjara Hills, Hyderabad (+91 40 6656 4466; www.kalakriti.in)
Shrishti Art Gallery
This modern art gallery includes works from famous Indian artists like Anjalie Ela Menon and Jatin Das and hosts regular exhibitions that have become the talk of the town.
Shrishti Art Gallery, No 267, Road No 15, Jubilee Hills, Hyderabad (+91 40 2354 0023; www.shrishtiart.com)
Alankritha Art Gallery
Not only a gallery, Alankritha organizes discussions and workshops on contemporary art forms, as well as holds classes in art appreciation.
Alankritha Art Gallery, Residence Inn Lane, Kavuri Hills, Jubilee Hills, Hyderabad (+91 40 2311 3709; www.alankritha.com)
WHAT TO DO
Food and culture trails
Sample the best of Hyderabadi and Andhra cuisine with culinary trips that begin in the market and end in the kitchens of Hyderabadi families. Detours India also offers personalised historical, arts & crafts and slice-of-life tours.
Detours India (+91 90008 50505; www.detoursindia.com)
Rock walk
Mushroom Rock, Patthar Dil, Rock Park, Bear’s Nose—the Society to Save the Rocks, an organisation devoted to saving those ubiquitous granite aubergines, will introduce you to nature’s best in and around Hyderabad, every third Sunday of the month. Book in advance for this very unique tour.
Rock Walk (+91 40 2355 2923)
Ramoji Film City
The world’s largest integrated film studio complex, Ramoji Film City is spread across 1,666 acres of forest and rock-packed land. Take a guided tour to visit over 500 different sets that have been used in countless Bollywood and Tollywood flicks.
Ramoji Film City (+91 40 3257 7654; www.ramojifilmcity.com) Guided tour from Rs 600, per adult.
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